Bois de Jasmin is turning 9 years old this spring, something that I find hard to grasp. Has it really been this long? But what I need not reassert for myself is my love of jasmine. The small white flowers don’t have the Hollywood glamour of roses or the regal elegance of iris, but their scent is so luscious and complex that it has few rivals. One of the first articles I had written for Bois de Jasmin was about jasmine. I described how jasmine essence is obtained and mentioned representative jasmine perfumes but an update has been long overdue.
Although most jasmine used by perfumers comes from Morocco, Egypt, Italy and India, the five petaled flowers are still the symbol of the French art of perfumery. At one time the hills of Grasse in the South of France were thickly planted with jasmine, the picking of which involved the whole town. It is one of the most revered and intriguing materials in the perfumer’s palette. Jasmine smells of bananas and apricot jam but also of horse sweat and mothballs. One moment you notice the springlike freshness of white petals and the next you’re seduced by its hot animalic breath. Even a hint of jasmine essence can lend a seductive, voluptuous layer to the composition.
Romance aside, most perfumes named jasmine don’t contain any natural jasmine essence. It’s one of the most expensive ingredients, and few brands can afford it. Depending on the origin and quality, a pound can fetch anywhere from $4,000 to $9,000. The sheer effort involved in producing jasmine essence is astounding. The flowers have to be picked by hand and processed immediately, before the rot darkens the delicate petals. Six million flowers are needed to create 1 kilogram of jasmine absolute. That means more than 800 hours of picking.*
Moreover, for a launch that’s to be distributed globally, natural essences are not sustainable; there is simply not enough jasmine essence in the world to supply all of the big brands. (If you see a major launch promising natural jasmine, rose or other precious essences, it means that there is only a tiny drop to allow for the marketing claim). Even in the days when perfumers had unlimited budgets like Ernest Beaux did when he worked for Coco Chanel, jasmine wasn’t used indiscriminately. Beaux used about 4% jasmine in the original formula of No 5 and only a smidgen to make a lush white bouquet in No 22 or to soften the leather in Cuir de Russie.
But the beauty of fragrance is not measured by its costs or the percentage of rare essences. It’s a big misconception to think that it only takes one single synthetic to replace natural jasmine. A perfumer can create stunning jasmine with an intricate blend of natural and synthetic materials. Manmade materials can used to amplify the natural jasmine, round it out or to give it more nuances and facets.
Jasmine Gold Standard
One such example–and my absolute favorite jasmine–is Serge Lutens À La Nuit. It contains only a minute dose of natural jasmine absolute, but the composition is so skillfully put together that it smells like a jasmine garland worn by an Indian bride. Opulent, rich and heady, A la Nuit recreates not just the aroma of jasmine flowers but also the ambiance of a balmy night, vines dropping star-shaped flowers on the ground and summertime indolence.
Another favorite jasmine of mine is also from Serge Lutens, but it’s in a much darker register than À La Nuit. Sarrasins accents the natural leathery facet of jasmine, giving it more prominence and richness.
If you’re after retro jasmine, Jean Patou Joy and Chanel No 5 extrait de parfum are the best options. No 5 parfum still uses the prized essence from Grasse in its composition, although given the tiny size of the jasmine fields in Grasse, it can’t be more than a token amount. Whatever the jasmine origin, both fragrances demonstrate how jasmine can add curves and drama.
Jasmine Straight Up
Although jasmine soliflorals are less common than fragrances based around rose or tuberose, there are other great options besides No 5 and À La Nuit. Donna Karan Essence Jasmine is an excellent choice, effervescent, dewy and luminous.
For jasmine accented with green notes, I prefer Kilian’s Love and Tears and Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita. They both twist the white petals around crushed leaves, but Love and Tears goes for a darker, warmer effect, while Sampaquita retains an airy brightness.
Nasomatto Nuda, Christian Dior Grand Bal, and Tom Ford Private Blend Jasmin Rouge are three well-crafted jasmine perfumes that don’t overdecorate the flower and simply accent different nuances. Nuda has a lingering musky drydown, Grand Bal emphasizes the fresh apricot notes, and Jasmin Rouge darkens the flowers with a dose of balsams and incense.
Lush Lust and Yves Rocher Tendre Jasmin are two great budget jasmines, and the choice will depend on whether you want an explosion of jasmine (Lust) or a gauzy veil (Tendre Jasmin). More than the perfumes themselves, I prefer the body products that accompany them. A morning shower with Lust soap is the best start of a day.
Jasmine Remixed
The most interesting effects can be created when jasmine is blended with other notes, while remaining prominent enough to stand out. Because jasmine is lush and sensual, it is usually treated in an oriental context and embellished with other exotic notes. The ravishing effect of Annick Goutal Songes is achieved by weaving a ribbon of sweet jasmine through a dark blend of sandalwood and vanilla. The perfume is at once ethereal and intoxicating.
If you require tropical, heady and sultry, try Guerlain Mahora/Mayotte. It contains a whopping dose of natural jasmine, and also every single white flower in the perfumer’s palette, so consider yourself warned.
Another jasmine given an opulent treatment is Thierry Mugler Alien. Here the white flowers are set into a frame of amber, vanilla and musk, and the result is heady to the point of being overwhelming. I can’t stand it, but even so, I admit that it’s an excellent, quality perfume, and I would be remiss not to include it here.
With Ozbek by Rifat Ozbek you can enjoy the smolder of jasmine without worrying about your perfume causing asthma attacks in others. Ozbek blends jasmine into a sheer accord of peach, hyacinth and freesia and wraps it up in musk. Another mild oriental jasmine is The Different Company’s Jasmin de Nuit. It spices up jasmine with star anise and cardamom, turning the blossoms into a Middle Eastern inspired confection.
One of the most surprising jasmine twists is Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette. Instead of leather, musk or spice, it uses an ashy, tobacco note to give jasmine a smoky aura. It’s a red lipstick and stiletto heels perfume, with a dose of retro glamour.
Finally, for a remixed jasmine, I like Estée Lauder’s Jasmine White Moss. It’s an elegant blend in the spirit of Chanel Cristalle, but with a richer white floral layer shining through the mosaic of green leaves, orange blossom, and vetiver.
Not My Idea of Jasmine
To give you a sense of what I consider a good jasmine perfume, here are some examples of fragrances that aren’t my idea of jasmine. Either they smell like nail polish remover (Floris Night Scented Jasmine) or don’t deliver on their jasmine promise (Creed’s Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie). Le Labo’s Jasmin 17 is one of the latter; it’s really an orange blossom (and an overpriced one at that).
Montale Jasmin Full and Creed Jasmal have an excellent start, but peter out before they evoke the fantasy of jasmine garlands. Gelsomino by Acqua di Parma likewise has a change of heart after a promising start and dries down as sweaty and sour. Miller Harris Le Jasmin can’t decide what it wants to be, but it never manages to convince me that it’s a jasmine. The same goes for Miller Harris Jasmin Verte and Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Jasminora.
Aerin Ikat Jasmine is a wallflower, though the quality is fairly good and if you like mild green jasmines, it’s a decent option. Armani Privé Éclat de Jasmin and Bvlgari Jasmin Noir are luminous and bright, but neither satisfies my jasmine cravings. As you can see, I’m not picky about jasmine at all.
More jasmine perfumes to consider: Bulgari Voile de Jasmin, Le Jardin Retrouvé Jasmin, Keiko Mecheri Jasmine, Molinard Jasmin, L’Occitane Jasmin & Bergamote, Mâitre Parfumeur et Gantier La Reine Margot, Fresh Pink Jasmine, Carthusia Gelsomino di Capri, and Santa Maria Novella Gelsomino. I haven’t tried all of them, so if you have, I would love to hear your thoughts.
*According to IFF’s Laboratoire Monique Rémy.
What are your favorite jasmine perfumes? (And if you dislike jasmine, please don’t hold back either! I know that it’s a somewhat polarizing note and is not to everyone’s tastes).
Photography by Bois de Jasmin (1: jasmine grandiflorum from Grasse; 3: jasmine sambac from India; the jasmine in photos 2 and 4 is not used in perfumery but it has a wonderful fruity-green scent).
304 Comments
Cornelia Blimber: Again I admire your thorough knowledge of everything regarding perfume (and not only perfume btw); very instructive article!
I love jasmine not only for its smell, but also for my happy memories of my mother stealing jasmine flowers in Rotterdam; big flowers with a very rich favour. Alas not existing there anymore. A la Nuit comes close to that smell and it is one of my most beloved perfumes.
I have a ”Jasmin” by MPG, fresh, smelling somehow of toothpaste. I like it nevertheless.
My favorite when I was young was the jasmine of Je Reviens. Alas, gone forever.
As for Alien, I love it on others, not on myself. The other day a woman in the tramway was wearing it, and suddenly the tram was a nice, pleasant place to be. That’s the magic of perfume. February 24, 2014 at 7:32am
Victoria: You hit the nail on the head with your comment about MPG. I’ve been trying to sum it up, and yes, it’s so minty, it’s almost like toothpaste or chewing gum. Not my top favorite jasmine, but it’s still good for those who like their jasmine simple, without too much fuss. February 24, 2014 at 10:23am
Masha: Jasmine and orange flower are my favorites. I have several dram-bottles of jasmine absolutes (different countries, different batches), and the old-style attars from India that are swoon-worthy. I even love skanky Jasmine sambac. As far as the synthetics go, I agree with your listing wholeheartedly, except that I love Alien and most of its flankers. I wear it well, for some reason it doesn’t go nuclear on me the way it does on some people. It seems to be one of those perfumes that is very dependent on individual chemistry. Weirdly, I can’t wear SL’s A La Nuit because it does grow so huge on me, it’s like being gobbled up by Audrey (the plant in “Little Shop of Horrors”). But I wish I could wear it, it’s a stunner…. February 24, 2014 at 8:14am
missyl: Masha, Laughing out loud about the gobbling plant in LSOH! :)) February 24, 2014 at 8:50am
Victoria: Alien has plenty of natural jasmine too, but I think that the combination of strong aldehydes and strong amber is what makes it hard for some people. But I agree, if you can wear it, it’s amazing. Another trouble I have is that it’s hard to apply it lightly from the spray bottle Mugler provides.
Aren’t the old-style attars from India fascinating? They are perfumes in themselves! February 24, 2014 at 10:26am
Elisa: My issue with Alien is the grape soda note, but I find the flankers often don’t play that up as much. I have one of the summer versions (Essence Ambre d’or something or other) and it’s great. February 24, 2014 at 11:42am
Andy: I had forgotten that you too find that grape soda note in Alien. The original ultimately doesn’t work for me, so it’s good to know that the summer flankers might be a better match for me. February 24, 2014 at 2:07pm
Victoria: Mugler does flankers really well! Just the other day I complimented a woman at a grocery store on her perfume, and it turned out to be an Angel summer flanker. It smelled gourmand, but not cloying and the sillage was fantastic. February 24, 2014 at 3:11pm
Andy: Oh yes! All the Angel flankers I’ve tried (Aqua Chic, Taste of Fragrance) are really excellent. February 24, 2014 at 4:50pm
Victoria: Aqua Chic was very good, surprisingly so even, because I expected that it will be, well, watery, but instead it was radiant and breezy. February 24, 2014 at 5:58pm
Annikky: A*Man flankers are very good, too. I think it was Pure Malt that I almost bought for myself. February 25, 2014 at 12:19pm
Victoria: I like Pure Malt too. It’s almost addictive. February 25, 2014 at 1:03pm
Elisa: I bought Pure Malt! It’s mm-mm good February 25, 2014 at 1:56pm
Jennifer C: I had a hard time with regular Alien, but I found that the Aqua Chic flanker is easier to wear for me. I don’t find it overly “watery”, more just like a lighter version of the original. And it didn’t hurt that I found a 60ml bottle of Aqua Chic on clearance at a TJ Maxx for $9. I think I still have a sample of the original, though. Maybe I need to try dabbing instead of spraying. February 26, 2014 at 4:27pm
Marie: Wow! 9 years is a long time. Happy Birthday to Bois de Jasmin.
I’m slowly starting to like jasmine but A La Nuit is still too strong for me. I like what you call ‘jasmin straight up.’ Nuda is very pretty. February 24, 2014 at 8:18am
Victoria: Thank you, Marie! I also find it hard to believe that it’s been that long. 🙂
Nuda is a very nice jasmine, and it’s probably my favorite from Nasomatto overall. February 24, 2014 at 10:27am
Anne of Green Gables: What a wonderful post! Thank you very much and congratulations on the 9th anniversary of BdJ, Victoria. A La Nuit is my favourite jasmine perfume so far. It’s the ideal jasmine for me. It’s so beautiful and I love how it has just enough animalic touch to make it sensual and rich. It’s one of these perfumes that transports you to another place. Sarrasins is also wonderful but I find A La Nuit more wearable.
When I want clean, uncomplicated, fresh jasmin, I turn to my sample of The Pour Un Ete. It’s very pretty although it lacks in sensuality and as everyone already knows, longevity. Although it’s not just about jasmine, I love the elegant, radiant jasmine in my new found love, V&A First. Also, one of my favourite jasmine “fragrances” has to be a cup of freshly brewed jasmine pearl tea. February 24, 2014 at 8:19am
Victoria: Thank you! Who knew I’d be able to keep it up for all these years, save for a break here and there.
Surprisingly, I find Sarrasins less tenacious than A la Nuit. It should be the opposite, but A La Nuit wears like iron, while Sarrasins is more fleeting. Of course, relatively speaking only! 🙂
Can’t agree more on First! I revisited it after I already wrote this post, but I thought that it’s another great classical jasmine example. February 24, 2014 at 10:29am
nikki: of course, First is the non plus ultra in flowery fragrance and I adore it! February 24, 2014 at 10:34am
Victoria: I’ll wear it tonight. February 24, 2014 at 11:15am
Anne of Green Gables: I’m only amazed that you could keep it going for 9 years and I wish I could have discovered your blog earlier. I hope that you’ll keep it going for many more years to come.
Yes, you’re right, it’s relatively speaking! Both perfumes aren’t easy to wear compared to many other perfumes. The inital blast of indoles (now I know what I’m smelling, thanks to you :-)) in A la Nuit is so heady that I think it can offend some people. But the reason why I find Sarrasins slightly more difficult to wear is the barnyard (horse) note. It’s not very strong but nonetheless, I can detect it and it’s not my favourite note to be honest. I’ll have to revisit it in the future as my tastes may change.
Inspired by your post, I read the chapter on jasmine in the Scent and Chemistry book last night. I wanted to find out which molecules are added to create that horse note in jasmine but I couldn’t find it in the book. I gathered from the other posts that it’s usually p-cresol but is there anything else that’s freqeuntly used to create that effect in jasmine perfumes? What does p-cresol in isolation actually smell like? February 25, 2014 at 8:58am
Victoria: I’m surprised by that too, especially since it started just as a little place where I put together my notes on perfume.
There are trace amounts of other molecules, but the main horsey note is p-cresol, which smells very much like horse stables. It’s sharp, pungent and sweaty, but if you’re familiar with the smell of horses, you might not find it unpleasant. February 25, 2014 at 11:13am
Anne of Green Gables: Thank you, V! For me, cresol is associated with the smell of hospital because it’s frequently used as a disinfectant. It has a very sharp and pungent smell but if I recall correctly, it didn’t smell sweaty. What I smelled must have been a mixture of all the isomers (o-, m- and p-). I’ve had a few sessions of riding lessons in the past but since I’m usually not around horses, I don’t find the smell that pleasant. February 25, 2014 at 1:05pm
Victoria: Interesting, p-cresol I use smells so dirty that I can’t imagine it as a disinfectant in a hospital February 25, 2014 at 3:43pm
sandra: Congrads on your 9 years! Thats wonderful. How terrific. I have learned so many new things by reading your posts. I have these wonderful smelling paperwhites that I grew myself with almost no effort and I have watched 2 bollywood films, and through your recommend me a perfume posts I have two great rose scents! Thank you thank you.
I had to think for a moment if I have any jasmin perfumes in my small collection and I don’t think I do. I have samsara which maybe has a little. I do have a sample of A la nuit, but I find myself layering it with sandlewood. Maybe I do like jasmin but only with sandlewood? Hmm…
Congrads again and a wonderful article! I love the photos! Mendhi is so beautiful and so are the flowers. February 24, 2014 at 8:46am
Victoria: Thank you, Sandra! I’m so happy to hear that I swayed you with my Bollywood passion. And Andy’s post on growing paperwhites inspired me too, and I have no green thumb at all.
Jasmine with sandalwood is such a delicious combo! February 24, 2014 at 10:38am
Andy: Glad to hear you’ve enjoyed growing your own paperwhites! The powerfully indolic scent is enough of a draw for me, but the flowers are so pretty too! February 24, 2014 at 2:05pm
Liz K: You reminded me to check my paperwhites. They should be up and blooming right now and I need to cut some for my desk. Hope patients don’t complain about the stink like one grouchy gentleman did last year. February 24, 2014 at 3:24pm
ChanteusedesIles: I also watched one of your Bollywood recommendations, Jodhaa Akbar, it was so colourful and fun! Very entertaining 🙂 March 4, 2014 at 9:47pm
Victoria: 🙂 Glad that you liked it! The costumes (and the actors!) are just so gorgeous, aren’t they? March 5, 2014 at 11:39am
missyl: Good morning Victoria!,
Your articles are a looked forward to pleasure in my day! I’ve been reading your blog almost every day for about 4-5 years and I’m loving the smelling hobby you’ve opened up for me.
I know this isn’t a Jasmine, but I bought Tuberose and Gardenia (Estee) last week-( present from my husband. The sweet man lets me pick my presents so I get what I really want!) For me it is glorious, long lasting, classic and well done. I think since I can often wear the Lauders, and they are easily found I’ll try to run down the Jasmine White Moss. I feel like I am relatively new to identifying notes: I had Pure White Linen ( Lauder-perfume) and it had a heady note in it that I assumed was the Jasmine Sambac listed. I have the Eau Premeire ( Chanel number 5 remix) It just smells of lemon then sweet then of iris to me… is that sweet top note after the lemon Jasmine?
Sigh..and the A la Nuit ( Lutens) sounds like a must try though perhaps with restraint! I’ve been hesitating due to the price, but I think I’ll go ahead and get a sample. Thankful for decanter services! Happy smelling to you today. And thank you for the work that keeping up a blog must be. I appreciate it. It’s a delight! February 24, 2014 at 8:46am
Victoria: You’re spot on about Pure White Linen. There is a nice jasmine note in it, and it’s blended in a very pretty floral accord, almost like a jasmine watercolor. I need to revisit Eau Premiere, but I think that yes, it had a sheer jasmine note too. Many perfumes today have it, since it adds brightness and airiness like nothing else.
A sample of A La Nuit should be plenty to start with, especially if you’re not sure about that much jasmine. It’s a grand diva of jasmines for me. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 10:41am
Clara: Gorgeous! Are those photos from your wedding? February 24, 2014 at 8:50am
Victoria: Thank you. No, they’re from an Indian wedding, but not from mine. February 24, 2014 at 10:42am
Caroline: Very informative post, and thanks for reminding me that I still need to try A la Nuit! My current
favorite that incorporates noticeable jasmine is Orangers en Fleurs (Houbigant). February 24, 2014 at 8:50am
Victoria: Thank you, Caroline. I must smell Orangers en Fleurs again. February 24, 2014 at 10:42am
jb: congratulations Victoria for 9 years of running this blog/website 🙂 wonderful and informative articles and pictures as always February 24, 2014 at 8:51am
Victoria: Thank you very much! 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 10:43am
Irene: Hi Victoria! Congratulations on the Blog aniversary! I must say, this is the blog that got me started in the discovery of perfume, and it is still the one I read with more pleasure and affinity…
I´m one of the persons who doesn´t feel comfortable in white florals, specially if they are clean and bright, thus I´m not the biggest fan of jasmine. But since I discovered Lush Flying Fox shower gel, I haven´t used anything else. It´s a very sexy mix of jasmin and honey and I wish they would turn it into a perfume! Do you have any recommendation for the most animalic jasmin, or a pefume that mixes it with honey?? Thanks!! February 24, 2014 at 9:22am
Irene: Oh, I forgot, I think my favorite pefume with a recognizable jasmin note is Samsara… February 24, 2014 at 9:30am
Victoria: A gem! 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 11:00am
Victoria: Irene, thank you for your nice words! Have you tried Lust from Lush? It’s very animalic to me, but it depends on what you mean by animalic. Some jasmine perfumes emphasize the musky part, others–the leathery, and others bank on indole, the component that smells like moth balls and gives natural jasmine its distinctive edge.
Jean Patou Joy also has a dirty edge, although it’s really quite classical and I’m not sure if you wanted something like this.
Chanel Beige, DelRae Amoureuse and Armani Code for Her mix white floral with honey, although out of these only Amoureuse is truly animalic. February 24, 2014 at 10:52am
Elisa: Irene, I think Lust is based on Flying Fox, at least they smell very similar to my nose, with that huge metallic honey note. February 24, 2014 at 11:44am
Irene: Then I’ll run into the Lush shop this afternoon! Thanks a lot, maybe I’ve found my jasmine perfume!!! February 25, 2014 at 3:05am
Maggie: Yes, Lust is the perfume version of Flying Fox. February 24, 2014 at 8:52pm
Irene: Thanks!! I didn’t know that, since it doesn’t list honey in the ingredients list, but instead vanilla and sandalwood, but I’ll try it anyway today! February 25, 2014 at 3:09am
Victoria: Thank you, Maggie! It’s good to know. February 25, 2014 at 7:33am
Annikky: I must try Lust then, I’m a huge fan of Flying Fox. Thanks! February 25, 2014 at 12:31pm
OperaFan: Very glad you mentioned Amoureuse as being on par with the skanky A La Nuit. I have the tub of body cream which I use so sparingly I’m sure it will outlast me! February 26, 2014 at 11:38am
Victoria: I tried the cream only a couple of times, but I know exactly what you mean. A little goes a long long way. February 26, 2014 at 2:32pm
Truehollywood: I think I should try Alien, most Jasmin centric fragrances don’t last very long on me (including Chanel no 5 perfume extrait). I’m so afraid of Angel that I never bothered with Alien. February 24, 2014 at 9:25am
Victoria: Alien can be scary, I should warn you. 🙂 If you get a sample, I really recommend dabbing it on. Starting with small quantities is best, especially since this stuff just doesn’t fade away. Fascinating but challenging. February 24, 2014 at 10:54am
Anka: Congratulations on the anniversary!!!
Wow, the pictures are wonderful, I like jasmine best this way…banned on a foto.
My favorite flowery notes are iris, rose and violet. I have a hard time with jasmine, tuberosis and especially orange blossom – I love neroli, though. Songes or à La Nuit are too dense and big / heavy for me but I like it on others. If it’s just a co-player like in Apres L’Ondée or Chamade, then I enjoy its contribution to a beautiful bouquet very much.
But since my taste already changed a lot during the last year, I won’t give up coming back to jasmine time and again. February 24, 2014 at 9:27am
Victoria: Thank you, Anka!
I loved how in India everyone wears flowers in their hair. For a rupee, you can get a small garland and enjoy this little luxury and nice perfume wafting around you. When I returned, I immediately bought a small jasmine plant. If I can’t have a jasmine garland, at least I can treat myself to fresh blossoms. February 24, 2014 at 10:55am
Anka: This sounds so lovely – I’ve never (!) smelled the natural jasmine flower or blossoms so far. February 25, 2014 at 2:40am
Victoria: You can check at the florist shops. Sometimes they carry blooming plants, and if I pass by such a display, I can’t resist taking a whiff. February 25, 2014 at 7:53am
Anka: I read that Jérome Epinette composed a new fragrance for Byredo, “Flowerhead”, which is inspired by the “garlands made of flower heads strung together for weddings in India”. It’s said to contain, above other notes, wild jasmine sambac and dewy tuberose. February 27, 2014 at 8:02am
Victoria: Thank you, Anka! Sounds very tempting. February 27, 2014 at 8:40am
Sylviane: Dear Victoria,
I would like also to congratulate you on the 9th birthday of your blog but most of all I thank you for your generosity in sharing with strangers your incredible knowledge , culture and emotions ! A la Nuit is my favourite jasmine perfume, the exact smell of a garden on my beloved Cyprus island…. February 24, 2014 at 9:28am
Victoria: Thank you, Sylvaine! I appreciate your kind words. This means so much to me. February 24, 2014 at 10:56am
Elia: Cyprus is littered with the grandiflorum jasmin. I’ve not extensively tested A la Nuit, but I’m fairly certain it is far more reminiscent of the sambac flower than our own jasmin. February 25, 2014 at 10:09am
Cornelia Blimber: Once upon a time there was grandiflorum jasmine in Rotterdam, and A la Nuit comes very close to that smell.I remember it so well..that’s why I love A la Nuit February 26, 2014 at 5:44am
nikki: Dear Victoria!
Congratulations on making the world a better place! Many times your writing and the comments have helped me forget about things which bothered me that day. Nothing better than diving into a pool of friendly fragrance talk…to get one out of a rut. So, thank you, thank you, thank you!
And now to jasmine, and I appreciate that you will allow people who seem to have trouble with jasmine have their word of the day, too!
I bought A la Nuit and gave it away, nothing for me. I had given up on jasmine altogether as I never found the jasmine scent again that I smelled driving in Egypt with jasmine hanging from the mirror….but then, finally, I discovered the perfect jasmine for myself:
Jasmine Sambac Absolue essential oil by wisdom of the earth here in Arizona
That jasmine is amazing. it is fruity and so sexy and doesn’t have the funny scent that jasmine grandiflora has to my nose.
It is terribly expensive though and only to be used sparingly but it is great!
There are no jasmine perfumes I like although I do enjoy wearing Lumiere by Rochas which has some jasmine.
I think that jasmine sambac is my kind of jasmine, and I will leave jasmine grandiflora for others…I did buy a flowering jasmine bush for Valentine’s day and that scent is wonderful. February 24, 2014 at 9:28am
Victoria: Thank you, Nikki! 🙂 There are really so few perfumes that capture exactly the scent of jasmine on the plant. A La Nuit is the closest to me, but I know that many don’t care for it or find it not quite right. The jasmine absolute you describe sounds wonderful. I have some Egyptian and Indian absolutes that I use in my bath or in my scented body oils. Occasionally, I wear them diluted as perfume. February 24, 2014 at 10:59am
Persolaise: Thanks for the wonderful round-up… and, personally, I can’t imagine not liking jasmine! It is just floral perfection, as far as I’m concerned.
I couldn’t agree more with your recommendations, but here’s an extra from me: Tauer’s Le Maroc Pour Elle – a very raw, woody, ragged jasmine that seems to radiate auburn sunbeams from every facet. February 24, 2014 at 9:34am
Victoria: Through work I encounter many people who dislike jasmine, but when we sit down and explore what it is that they don’t like, it usually comes down not to jasmine notes itself, but to specific perfumes.
Your description of Le Maroc Pour Elle will have me rushing to my samples box once I get home! February 24, 2014 at 11:02am
Merlin: Happy Birthday BdeJ!
I think my problematic relationship with jasmine began with La Nuit:p I had asked for Sa Majeste as a gift and was given La Nuit instead. What I found was that initially it is overbearing, but that the longevity is a problem so it starts too strong and then goes too weak. As a result I would keep re-spraying – and – predictably ended up with a total aversion to jasmine.
I gave away the bottle, but it was too late: any perfume with a strong jasmine note, even if not a soliflore, would smell horrible to me.
Of the ones listed that I have smelled, I like the Estee Lauder best – but so far I have managed without any definite jasmine perfumes… February 24, 2014 at 9:40am
Victoria: Oh, yes, overspraying A La Nuit is a sure way to develop an aversion to jasmine. I once made a mistake of wearing it on a hot summer day, and then it took me months to wear it again. February 24, 2014 at 11:05am
Phyllis Iervello: My favorite jasmine is also A la Nuit. I have several of the ones you mention and also have The Different Company’s Jasmine (very nice), Bulgari Voile de Jasmin, Gelsomino di Capri and Santa Maria Novella Gelsomino. They are all lovely and I especially like TDC;s Jasmine. Congratulations on your 9 year Anniversary! February 24, 2014 at 9:44am
Victoria: Thank you, Phyllis! I was curious to hear from someone who wore Santa Maria Novella Gelsomino, because I haven’t smelled it in ages and was wondering if it’s still good. With constant reformulations, one never knows. February 24, 2014 at 11:06am
Illdone: I”m surprised! I don’t consider myself a true jasmine lover but most perfumes you mention, I like very much so I must be a jasmine- liker then;)
I recall liking a ltd edition of “In love Again” edition Jasmin etoilée by YSL a lot.
I must still have a bottle somewhere
Hops in closet…
Congrats with the 9 year birthday! February 24, 2014 at 9:44am
Victoria: It’s fun to break down favorite perfumes by themes and then see where one’s affections lie. I never thought of myself as a white floral lover either, but clearly, I can’t get enough of them.
Thank you! February 24, 2014 at 11:07am
Patricia: Horse sweat? I am so there!
Which of the jasmine fragrances is the most animalic in your opinion? I’d love to try it.
Congratulations on nine years :). February 24, 2014 at 9:55am
Victoria: Have you tried Sarrasins, Pat? It has so much leather and other horsey notes in it.
Thank you! February 24, 2014 at 11:07am
Patricia: l will try that one. Thanks! February 24, 2014 at 11:42am
Lydia: Thank you for such an insightful article (as usual!), Victoria. And happy birthday to the blog.
I absolutely agree with you about Lush’s “Lust” perfume (which The Candy Perfume Boy summed up perfectly in the title to his review of it: “Holy Jasmine, Batman!”) and with AdeP’s Gelsomino. It’s pleasantly light when you first don it, but you’re right, the shift becomes something almost medical on the dry down. I also have a sampler of Jasmin et Cigarettes, which I really love the concept of, and like to spritz in the air and sort of breathe it in, but I just don’t like it on me. I imagine Dita von Teese would make it quite the va va voom, though!
My husband and I did the perfume apprenticeship workshop at the Fragonard factory when we were in Grasse last fall, and at the end they give–among all the other lovely little gifts–a blot stick of pure jasmine absolute. Divine! And it really did smell like a ripe banana when we first got them. It still gives off a scent, where I have it stored in my little shoebox of perfumes.
Now I absolutely want to try Osman. Thanks for the recommendation. February 24, 2014 at 10:06am
Victoria: Jasmin et Cigarettes does feel like something fit for a pinup queen, doesn’t it! I only wish that it had more longevity, because for all of its pomp and dazzle, it fades too quickly on me.
Did you enjoy the workshop? I think that Grasse is such a charming town, especially if you visit when everything blooms. February 24, 2014 at 11:10am
Lydia: The workshop was fantastic, so much fun. I think my husband, who didn’t even want to go to it to begin with, got even more out of it due to the very tactile “science lab” bent. The workshops are available in English and French. Our English session included couples from Japan, Hungary, San Francisco and Australia, which made it all the more enjoyable to hear international associations with smell. The “professor” was also an engaging and elegant Frenchwoman who was part artist, part scientist, part school teacher. I highly recommend it, and then you get to tour the old factory, shops and cafe afterward. It was a delightful afternoon. February 24, 2014 at 11:30am
Victoria: It sounds so much fun! A friend asked me for a recommendation, and I will forward your comment to her. Since she has a scientist husband, whom she’s trying to convince to attend the workshop, your vote of confidence might make the final decision. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 11:38am
Lydia: Happy to give her a more detailed run-down of it if she thinks it might help her convince him. February 24, 2014 at 12:27pm
Victoria: She thought that your comments were very helpful, and yes, both of them decided to attend the workshop. Yay! Thank you, Lydia! February 24, 2014 at 3:18pm
Ferris: That sounds like an amazing experience! I need to get to Paris and attend that Perfume Apprentice Workshop at the Fragonard factory! February 25, 2014 at 3:35am
karmawit: Happy Birthday, Bois de Jasmin! For the past year or so, I’ve been enjoying your beautifully-written, informative posts, which are like warm oases in the midst of the awful cold winter we’ve been having.
For the past year, I’ve been wearing Guerlain Idylle Duet Jasmin Lilas, a fragrance whose opening, heart, and drydown (especially the latter) remind me of my two years in India, where I made sure to plant night-blooming jasmine to ensure an evening swoon upon returning home. February 24, 2014 at 10:13am
Victoria: Thank you very much! I’m very happy that you’re enjoying it here.
I was in India not long ago, and I couldn’t believe how great jasmine smelled there. It wasn’t even the season for most types of jasmine, but in the evening, the air would be full of this rich, heady aroma. February 24, 2014 at 11:13am
Nancy A.: Hi Victoria,
I can’t think of a better way for an anniversary celebration than a great review on Jasmine. For a tiny, feisty, sensuous bud it certainly makes an impression on me! Many more lovely reviews! February 24, 2014 at 10:34am
Victoria: I also thought that first post on jasmine, one of the first few I’d written, is due for an update. I only mentioned a handful of jasmine perfumes in it, and now we have so many more. February 24, 2014 at 11:16am
george: Happy ninth!
I have to say that I find it hard to read a review of a masculine perfume (see Bel Ami Vetiver), without thinking that sounds like it needs a good dose of jasmine; I don’t have a bottle of A la Nuit but if I did it would be for layering with all those masculines a bit too much on the woody or leathery side, but both are not for me on their own, per se. However, some jasmine, some fruit and some iris is as good as triptych as you can get, and 1932 would have been ideal if the jasmine was a little raunchier and it had been more of a perfume than a lovely spray of something. I await the extrait eagerly. February 24, 2014 at 10:35am
george: oh and “Not My Idea of Jasmine” sounds like the name of a perfume from one of the more wilfully perverse lines. February 24, 2014 at 10:42am
Victoria: So true! Perfect for Juliette Has a Gun or Etat Libre d’Orange. February 24, 2014 at 11:14am
Annikky: I would blind buy it. And I never blind buy anything. February 25, 2014 at 1:53pm
Victoria: Thank you!
I completely agree with you on 1932. If it had more body, more tenacity and more growl, it would be perfect. Another perfume I would have loved to see in a parfum concentration is Dior New Look 1947. February 24, 2014 at 11:17am
george: Completely aside from that, have you seen American Hustle? The Jennifer lawrence character outlines an interesting theory about perfume at one point. February 24, 2014 at 1:16pm
Victoria: I haven’t, but now I’m intrigued. February 24, 2014 at 5:25pm
george: http://www.theguardian.com/film/video/2014/feb/21/american-hustle-should-win-the-best-picture-oscar-video
If you want to see the main perfume referring clip! February 25, 2014 at 9:01am
Victoria: Thank you for both links, George! Off to see it shortly. February 25, 2014 at 11:13am
george: This clip is better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_M3wRmWKms February 25, 2014 at 9:06am
Nicola Stephens: Many Happy Returns BdJ and Victoria! Still one of the most beautiful (in all ways) perfume blog.
Now, jasmine. How I love the smell of jasmine from a tumbling canopy over a wall on a warm summer night! Nothing compares (though I have not experienced the Indian garlands). I don’t however get on very well with wearing overly floral perfumes so although I can appreciate A La Nuit I can’t wear it. Of your list, I am most fond (and can wear) Love and Tears and TDC Jasmin a la Nuit. Bruno Acampora (spelling?) does a fabulous Jasmine – Jasmin T I think it is and when I wore that once, an Indian friend said it smelled like Indian garlands. Nicola February 24, 2014 at 11:06am
Victoria: Thank you very much, Nicola!
And thank you for mentioning Bruno Acampora. I haven’t tried perfumes from the line, but anything that smells like Indian jasmine garlands is enough to tempt me. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 11:25am
Nicola Stephens: I hope you like it! The other thing I meant to mention earlier – I bought some vintage Bandit a couple of years ago and was stunned by its beauty – jasmine flowers mixed with cigarette ashes in a leather ashtray – brutal in a way, broad brush strokes certainly, but the jasmine note is so clear and beautiful. Oh and thirding La Haie Fleurie. February 24, 2014 at 12:59pm
Victoria: The white floral note in Bandit also struck me when I first tried the vintage one. In the current formula, it’s much more subtle. What a beauty! February 24, 2014 at 3:28pm
mridula: Congratualtions Victoria. I ant to add my voice to all those others expressing their gratitude for the wonderful treat your blog is. I just absolutely love reading though I rarely comment.My favourite jasmine is a mogra oil from a perfume shop in Chandni Chowk. But I want so badly to try A la Nuit and Sarassins. I wrote to Serge Lutens a couple years ago, a letter of my prettiest pleading to try his samples and I got the full package of everything he lets you sample in wax. So sad to find I could hardly smell any of them. Is it my nose? I remember Sarassin smelling fennelish. I shall save my paisas for the juice. February 24, 2014 at 11:18am
Victoria: I wonder if it’s the same shop! I was in Delhi just a couple of weeks ago, and on my walk through Chandni Chowk I bought some mogra that I’ve been wearing to compensate for the lack of fresh jasmine garlands. 😉
And you’re right, the wax samples of A La Nuit and Sarrasins are oddly dull. Sarrasins wax especially smells nothing like the real perfume.
Thank you! February 24, 2014 at 11:28am
mridula: I am not sure how the shops compare. I just always end up at Gulab Singh Johri Mal just because that’s the one I went to originally. I think their giant bottles of attars, the sense they have perfumes in reserve for more deserving noses, their grumpy friendliness, the whole atmosphere of the shop adds to the feeling of adventure. February 24, 2014 at 11:18pm
Victoria: That’s the store I went to, and your description of Gulab Singh Johri Mal echoes my experience. The quality was impressive, especially since at some other places the attars I smelled clearly were not natural. But at Gulab Singh Johri Mal they were honest and explained which one was natural, which was a mix and which was all synthetic. February 25, 2014 at 7:36am
Surbhi: Thank you for this find. I have been trying to lay my hands on some Indian Itra. Considering world is banning jasmine.. India is my only hope. November 4, 2015 at 10:38pm
Victoria: I don’t think anyone is banning jasmine! November 5, 2015 at 9:24am
Paola: I have a bottle of the now discontinued La Haie Fleurie du Hameau by L’Artisan Parfumeur and it’s a truly nice jasmine. February 24, 2014 at 11:19am
Victoria: It used to be one of their best. I was debating whether I should mention it, because it’s an excellent jasmine. On the other hand, it’s discontinued. February 24, 2014 at 11:29am
bloody frida: Congratulations, Victoria!!!
I have never ventured deeply into the jasmine perfume world. So many perfumes, so little time! 🙂 Though straight up jasmine would be what I am most interested in exploring. Thanks! February 24, 2014 at 11:28am
Victoria: Thank you! 🙂
I may be biased, but jasmine is worth exploring, if only because it’s so hugely important in perfumes. And there are so many interesting fragrances with this note. February 24, 2014 at 11:31am
kitty: I love jasmine and as a perfume newbie I so, so appreciate all the recommendations. Also happy blog birthday! I’m a new reader but I’m learning so much about perfume now, thank you. February 24, 2014 at 11:36am
Victoria: Thank you, Kitty, and welcome to BdJ! 🙂 I’m sure you’ve already found that not just me but many others who comment are happy to share their thoughts and recommendations, so please feel free to jump in and post your questions anytime. February 24, 2014 at 11:41am
lari: Victoria, firstly super congratulations for the 9th anniversary of this blog and for all the knowledge you impart. To many more years and sniffs.
I wore Moroccan Jasmine Essence (oil form) from Kiehl back when they had 100+ essences available at the original shop- for close to 30 years. It was magnificent and the most expensive of the scents in the store. It was quite a scene in the store where finishing a bottle after 2 years or so I was told there would be no more ever! AARRGGH. My husband also loved this on me. I lived for awhile in Jerusalem and my employer always left a vase of jasmine on my desk. Anyway, I’ve tried for years to find something comparable, from oils to decants. Presently have a group of luxe jasmines from surrender to chance that I’m working through-a la nuit, jasmin and cigarettes, montale jasmine etc. we’ll see. I hope to recapture some serious magic. Again, thanks for the pleasure of reading this. February 24, 2014 at 11:38am
Victoria: Thank you very much, lari! I would love to hear when you go through your samples which perfumes end up as your favorites. I have never tried Moroccan Jasmine Essence, but I read several comments in which people mourned its departure. Kiehl’s essence were so much fun, and it’s too bad they no longer make them available. February 24, 2014 at 3:06pm
Wendy: Lari,
oh yes! Kiehl’s Morrocan Jasmine Oil! I was there in NYC then and remember all those wonderful bottles lined up on the table….in view of the aeroplanes! I still have my tightly sealed 1/8 oz bottle of Morrocan Jasmine Oil and open it mostly to take a deep heady draught….close my eyes and dream.
I’ve mentioned this to many people and unless one experienced it, was there then….it is difficult to imagine how fabulous the place and the scent were!
thank you!!!!
al best,
Wendy February 24, 2014 at 4:43pm
janecc: just piling on to the Kiehl’s Morrocan Jasmine love. I have an empty bottle on my dresser. Heady stuff. Has anyone found anything similar? April 28, 2016 at 3:31pm
Elisa: Happy almost birthday, V!
I love Lust! I think of it as a trashier version of Songes. 🙂 In general, I don’t reach for jasmine soliflores often, but I think Love and Tears is beautifully done, and I love vintage Joy. February 24, 2014 at 11:39am
Victoria: Thank you, Elisa! 🙂
I love your characterization of Lust! Yes, it finally makes sense to me. The best part are the body products, which smell heavenly. February 24, 2014 at 3:10pm
maja: I agree, Lust is quite trashy but I love the soap, too! 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 4:11pm
Victoria: Trashy but fun! One needs to have one of those around. Mahora is another one for me. February 24, 2014 at 6:06pm
Elisa: I have a lot more than one trashy perfume around 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 2:22pm
Victoria: We need to share our trashy favorites one of these days. 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 3:47pm
Annette Reynolds: Polla Chronia, Victoria! (The Greek version of “Happy Birthday.”)
Jasmine is one of my favorite garden flowers, and even in this northwest climate I try to grow some every year. (Some years it’s easier than others…) But I don’t think I’ve ever tried it as a perfume, and so am now curious to test a few to see how I feel about it on me.
Thank you for the (always) informative article! February 24, 2014 at 11:48am
Victoria: Thank you, Annette! Or may I should say “efkharistó”! 🙂
Jasmine likes its sun, so I can imagine that if it’s too grey and overcast, it could drop leaves and look a bit sad. I had the same issue with my plant before. February 24, 2014 at 3:15pm
Katy McReynolds: Congratulations on keeping this fabulous blog going for 9 years! Well done! My favorite jasmines are Alien and Pacifica’s Wakiki Pikake. From the ridiculous to the sublime, I realize. I love jasmine supported by coconut which is very refreshing and enervating. There is a new Alien Flanker coming out in March, Eau Extrodinaire, with tea and bergamot in the opening, tiare standing in for the jasmine and a white amber base. Dominique Ropion is one of the noses, so I expect it shall be quite nice. Perhaps this will be the jasmine tea perfume I have been craving? February 24, 2014 at 11:52am
Katy McReynolds: Addendum to the comment above. Just put my trusty gray sweatshirt on to finish weeding the garden and a lovely green jasmine ghost rose up from the neckline to greet me–Tauer Lonestar Memories! February 24, 2014 at 12:36pm
Victoria: Another Tauer I must revisit! February 24, 2014 at 3:25pm
Victoria: The new Alien flanker sounds wonderful, Katy. I’ve just added it to my list, so I’ll ask about it at our local perfumery. Like you, I would love a jasmine tea perfume. February 24, 2014 at 3:16pm
Alexandra: Generally speaking, jasmine has not been a favourite note… I don’t opt for white flowers… there is this sharp, high pitched, penetrating aroma that does not agree with me. Still, Olene by Diptyque is my favourite jasmine and a head turner… an indolic bomb. On another note, could it be you in one of the above photos dear Victoria (right before jasmine remixed!)? February 24, 2014 at 12:04pm
Alexandra: PS. You make this blogging world smell good! Here’s to the next nine! February 24, 2014 at 12:41pm
Victoria: Thank you very much, Alexandra! 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 3:27pm
Victoria: Olene is a stunner. I wasn’t sure if it might be discontinued, though.
Yes, that’s me and my hand in photo #4. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 3:17pm
nikki: Hmm, I just bought Olene based on the comments! I hope I will like it…! February 24, 2014 at 5:48pm
Victoria: Oh, I really hope that you will! Please let me know how it goes. February 24, 2014 at 5:57pm
nikki: will do, Victoria! otherwise I will just send you this bottle and the samsara extrait as I don’ really like that one either…when I am in Europe this June, ok? February 25, 2014 at 9:55am
Victoria: I have plenty of both, but I’m sure you can swap it! February 25, 2014 at 11:21am
nikki: I received the OLene perfume today and it is truly a wonderful spring scent, it smells of lilac and fresh blossoms, lovely! March 2, 2014 at 9:59am
Victoria: I’m very happy to hear this, Nikki! So glad that it worked so well for you. And glad that Olene is not discontinued. Thanks for letting me know. March 2, 2014 at 12:13pm
Jai: Congratulations on 9 years, and best wishes for many, many more. I am a new reader of your blog and am grateful for your knowledge and enthusiasm.
I love the smell of fresh jasmine. the first time I experienced it was as a teen when my parents took me to Burma, in southeast asia. My mum would buy me a fresh garland every morning to wear in my hair because that’s what she did when my age.
When we returned home, i bought jasmine perfume oil from The Body Shop (mid 1990s) hoping to replicate the scent, but it’s not quite the same. February 24, 2014 at 12:28pm
Victoria: Thank you very much, Jai! Welcome to our pages. 🙂
Reading your comment and that of others about real jasmine convinced me that nothing in the perfume bottle approaches the real thing perfectly. I wonder how you might like A La Nuit and whether it could satisfy the jasmine craving for you the way it does for me. February 24, 2014 at 3:24pm
Heather H: Hi Victoria,
Happy, Happy Birthday and thank you for sharing your knowledge . Bois de Jasmine has started the journey. I have worn À La Nuit and Songes. Both of these Jasmine perfumes have been favorites at different times in my life. But now my favorite jasmine perfume is Enlevement Au Serrail. February 24, 2014 at 12:38pm
Heather H: Oooh! I just want to add one more Jasmine- Olene by Diptyque. Luca Turin called this fragrance “a true Jasmine.” I sprayed this one on at Fred Segal in LA. Gorgeous! After I spayed, a saleslady in the shoe department said I smelled beautiful. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 1:11pm
Austenfan: I love Olène! February 24, 2014 at 2:08pm
Victoria: I had Olene shower gel, and it was so good. I believe that Olene has been discontinued, but I really hope that it’s not the case. February 24, 2014 at 5:24pm
Victoria: Thank you, Heather!
As much as I love A La Nuit, I too like to switch my jasmine favorites. I went through a Songes phase at one point. Now, after having revisited Van Cleef et Arpels First, I might be in my classical jasmine phase with it. February 24, 2014 at 3:27pm
OperaFan: First, for certain, is my favorite glamour gal among all jasmine perfumes. For my money, it is worth seeking out the pre-re formulated perfume. The base has more prominent sandalwood, less vanilla. February 26, 2014 at 11:56am
Victoria: It should still be easy to find, I think, although since the packaging hasn’t really changed much, it might be hard to figure which one is vintage and which is modern. What do you think? February 26, 2014 at 2:34pm
OperaFan: I don’t think the retail perfume bottle design has changed, but you can tell by the label of other bottles. The earliest labels on the edt has the VC&A spelled in a “u” shape along the label. Later versions (including edp) has them spelled upright. I know this from a promotional mini edt bottle acquired in the late ’80s. The tiny perfume bottles that were GWPs carry this label, so are better bets. There is also the marbleized vs plain boxes, bit I’m not sure if there were any formula changes before the box changed. February 27, 2014 at 10:21am
Victoria: Thank you so much! This is very helpful. February 27, 2014 at 12:14pm
Austenfan: Lovely and instructive post! Real jasmine is one of my favourite smells, on a par with the smell of linden trees in bloom.
I prefer Sarrasins to A la Nuit, though don’t ask me to explain, as I can’t. Sarrasins is probably my favourite Lutens actually.
I’ve never tried the Montale, the line is too big and the few ones I did try did nothing for me.
For a light jasmine I really like Le Jasmin by Goutal and Thé pour un Eté by L’Artisan.( I do occasionally enjoy Jasminora, although I realise I’m in a minority on this one)
Too bad L’Artisan chose to discontinue La Haie Fleurie, I am so glad I got a bottle, very summery and lovely.
I recently tried No.5 in extrait for the first time. Finally got what all the fuss was about. It’s beautiful. February 24, 2014 at 1:04pm
Austenfan: Oh, and congratulations on the 9 years, quite an achievement! February 24, 2014 at 1:04pm
Victoria: Thank you! We’re almost there. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 5:23pm
Victoria: My mom also prefers Sarrasins to A La Nuit, because as she describes, Sarrasins smells like a shower of white flowers and A La Nuit smothers her. What I love about Sarrasins is the color of its liquid. It makes me want to use it as ink and write jasmine scented letters.
Chanel No 5 in extrait is really a marvel. The EDP/EDT are beautiful, but they don’t have nearly as much nuance. February 24, 2014 at 5:18pm
Sebastiaan: Congratulations Victoria! I have been reading with many others since a year now and I treat it like a bible. You cannot imagine how much knowledge I got from it.
As for jasmine, I think it’s one of the most sensual/feminine note out there, which is shame for me, loving the flower and being a man. But because of my appreciation of it and liking to think I’m masculine enough to pull it off, I sometimes choose to wear it when I feel the occasion is right. I used to work for Estee Lauder and found a Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge in one of our corporate goodie bags. I love wearing it on warm summer nights, it has great radiance and has a very mysterious feel to it. February 24, 2014 at 1:04pm
Victoria: Thank you so much, Sebastiaan! 🙂
I would love to smell more jasmine on men, since it’s such a seductive note. And it makes me wonder how something like Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette would work on a guy. It’s such a shapeshifter! Have you tried it? February 24, 2014 at 5:22pm
Sebastiaan: You’re welcome Victoria!
I agree, let’s break with Western convention and introduce jasmine to men. If Dior Homme was able to do it with iris, why not jasmine.
I’ve not tried Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette but it sounds intriguing! I finally found an Etat Libre d’Orange here in East London, maybe I should pay them a visit this weekend. February 25, 2014 at 5:25am
Victoria: Please let me know what you think of Jasmin et Cigarette!
And yes, white florals can work well for men. Arquiste tried it with gardenia in Boutonnière no.7, and I liked the result. Not sure how many women vs men end up buying it, but it’s a fine fragrance. February 25, 2014 at 8:02am
nikki: I have always been fascinated by the bas reliefs of ancient Sumerian men with beautifully decorated beards and always carrying a flower in one of their hands….those guys were so masculine and still decorated with flowers! So, use that jasmine any time you want to….is my opinion! February 25, 2014 at 9:59am
Victoria: I think that flowers are for women is more of the European 19th century development. In India men also wear floral garlands for certain functions. February 25, 2014 at 11:24am
Ann: Hi Sebastiaan,
A million moons ago I was an exchange student in Sousse, in Tunisia. Men and women, but really mostly men, wore jasmine necklaces everywhere. To work, to the market, out for dinner… they were given and received like handshakes! My recollection is that the men most often wore single strands of the flowers, and the fragrance would last a full day or two. Totally lovely, totally masculine. February 24, 2014 at 6:13pm
Victoria: What a great tradition! I might spray some A La Nuit on my husband. February 24, 2014 at 6:17pm
Sebastiaan: Isn’t it interesting how culture and scent can be so different just across the Mediterranean!
Ann, I see you’ve got the Golden Gate as your profile picture. Do you live in San Francisco by any chance? I lived there a while back, and I loved and still miss all the incense, musky and animalic scents that surrounded me there! February 25, 2014 at 5:31am
Ann: Close! Peer passed the bridge and you see my beautiful city of Oakland! I think this area is wonderfully fragrant. My street smells of pine and magnolia trees, rosemary, freesias, and on occasion a whiff of something slightly unseemly when spring water wends its way down our hill. February 25, 2014 at 3:07pm
Ann: “past”! February 26, 2014 at 12:06am
behemot: Happy Birthday, Bois de Jasmin! 100 LAT:)
Jasmine. What a great timing. I researched perfume blogs yesterday, trying to find any jasmine perfume that would inspire me to get the one I love.
I think by Killian might be the closest to my taste, and it behaves well on my skin..
Jasmine is my favorite flower and I love the smell of its bushes a lot. At the same time, I cannot find the perfume that would capture this wonderful scent the way I want it. A la nuit smells great at first , but later becomes a sweet mess. Acqua di Parma Gelsomino -bad, as well as Bulgari JNoir, Miller Harris, Le Labo (!) and Montale. Not to mention Alien. I like Lush, but only in a form of soap.
Thanks again for the great post and everything you have written. Your blog was a real eye opener. February 24, 2014 at 1:34pm
Victoria: Thank you! 🙂 And I was thinking of you, because I made a popyseed roll yesterday using my grandmother’s dough and my Polish friend’s filling recipe. It included rum soaked raisins, vanilla, walnuts, and of course, poppyseeds. The filling was so good, I could have eaten it on its own.
Do try Love & Tears and even J’Adore Le Jasmin, if you can still find it. I just remembered that Denyse of Grain de Musc compared them favorably. Many people swear by Nuda, although I’m a bit put off by its price. February 24, 2014 at 5:28pm
Lynley: That poppyseed roll sounds divine! If you ever feel inspired to share the recipe I’m sure it would be greatly appreciated 😉 February 24, 2014 at 7:21pm
behemot: Lynley, in case V. doesn’t want to share this recipe with you, I will find you a good one.
But she will… 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 10:03pm
Victoria: My grandmother’s dough is something I make without a recipe, since I’ve been making it for many years, so I need to try writing down the proportions before I can share, but here is a Polish recipe that looks very similar:
http://www.mojewypieki.com/przepis/makowiec-zawijany/eng
Luckily, there is an English version too, and the photos are gorgeous. The main difference is that my poppyseed filling has no cinnamon and no candied orange peel. I think that they will be great, but I like to emphasize the almond flavor of poppyseeds. I added cherries from the cherry compote.
Also, she doesn’t specify, but you need to grind the poppyseeds before using them in the recipe. You can grind the dry seeds in a coffee grinder or soak them, as instructed, and grind them in a regular blender, adding some extra water to help them turn to paste. Then you have to evaporate the excess liquid, stirring the mixture constantly. Cool it down and proceed with the rest of the recipe. February 25, 2014 at 7:23am
nikki: This sounds similar to a German recipe of Mohnkuchen or Mohnrolle….I think poppyseed should be used so much more, it is so strange and exotic. We use poppyseeds on the little breakfast breads we call Broetchen (little bread). February 25, 2014 at 10:02am
Victoria: In Eastern and Central Europe, it’s such a common ingredient. In Ukraine, there is even a festival in the summer when you’re supposed to eat poppyseed flavored dishes. February 25, 2014 at 11:25am
Lynley: Thankyou so much V! I have a Serbian friend at work who shares with me when his mum makes him some, but I’d love to try my own. Can’t keep stealing his! 😉 February 25, 2014 at 12:07pm
Victoria: I hope that this recipe works out. It’s not a difficult pastry to make, as long as you have some experience working with yeast dough. Grinding poppyseeds is a bit messy, but the flavor is worth it. I usually make a double batch of filling and freeze it. Then I can defrost it for baking or for eating with Greek yogurt in the morning. It’s so good. February 25, 2014 at 1:02pm
behemot: Thank you for your advice on J’Adore jasmine. I will also try a sample of Nuda, despite of the price.
As of “makowiec”, i have to confess that I like the filling (especially with big, fat raisins soaked in alcohol) much better than the ready cake!
Yum 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 10:02pm
Victoria: I would love your recipe! 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 7:34am
Andy: Happy (Blog) Birthday!
I love jasmine in its natural state of fresh blossoms, but don’t especially gravitate toward it for my skin. I do find Alien very memorable though, even if I do agree with Elisa that it verges on grape soda. Growing jasmine sambac every summer has gotten me intimately familiar with its perfume. I’m always struck by the evolution of the scent: as the buds first unfold at dusk, the scent is clarion, smooth, and clean, almost to the point of smelling a bit like a laundry detergent. However, by dawn the next morning, the flowers smell wildly green and animalic, with that distinctive apricot overtone. Truly memorable! February 24, 2014 at 1:58pm
Victoria: Andy, you’re making me miss my two large jasmine sambac bushes that I had to leave behind in the US. My husband grew them from two small plants, and they bloomed profusely. Have you ever tried making jasmine sugar? February 24, 2014 at 5:30pm
Andy: Sad to hear you had to leave your jasmines behind. I’ve never made the sugar, but that sounds great! I’ll have to try it. February 24, 2014 at 6:46pm
Victoria: And my 2 citrus plants, which we grew from seed.
Jasmine water is something else I made by steeping a couple of blossoms in a bottle of water in the fridge. It takes only a couple of hours for water to taste floral. So refreshing. February 25, 2014 at 6:06am
Maria B.: For a while I loved La Haie Fleurie du Hameau, but then it started making me sneeze. As soon as I put on Joy, I became nauseated and developed a migraine. There is something about jasmine perfumes that my body does not love. In gardens, though, I enjoy the flower. February 24, 2014 at 2:07pm
Victoria: They’re not always easy, and those two fragrances are also really strong. And of course, there is nothing beating real jasmine. February 24, 2014 at 5:31pm
Solanace: Happy anniversary, Victoria! Thank you so much for sharing your beautiful pictures, wonderful articles and for assembling this amazing crowd. For being so sweet and generous with every one who comments here, every day. It feel so fortuante for having discovered BdJ. Congratulations!
Well, being a Marlboro longing ex smoker I’ll have to try Jasmin and Cigarettes. 🙂 Even if I’m more into orientals, jasmin is a note I enjoy very much: I wear Joy, A la Nuit, Sarrasins, Songes… As ‘not my idea of jasmine’ I should mention Pacifica California Star Jasmine. So artificial and piercing! And my personal gold medal goes to our Jasmin Sambac hedge at 6 am, just before the kids wake up. Dreamy, I wish I could bottle the warm air and send it to you! February 24, 2014 at 2:12pm
Solanace: Sorry for the typo, I meant I feel fortunate. February 24, 2014 at 2:14pm
Victoria: Thank you for your kind words! I try my best. Above all, I’m grateful for everyone who visits, comments, reads. 🙂
I can just imagine the aroma of jasmine in the air, the feeling of the whole day yet ahead. By the way, you wake up so early, and that’s been my constant goal for the past few years. Of course, now it’s close to midnight and I’m not yet in bed. Not hard to see why I find it hard to wake up early. February 24, 2014 at 5:41pm
Solanace: Oh, I’d love to sleep until 8, just one day! February 24, 2014 at 6:19pm
Victoria: I imagine with young kids it’s totally out of the question.
I still wake up early, but I suffer. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 6:25pm
Domestic Goblin: Wow, nine years? Time flies when you’re having fun!
I love drinking Jasmine Tea but when Jasmine is used as the main ingredient/note in a fragrance it can be really potent! For example, Lust EDP by Lush and Flying Fox shower gel also by Lush is too repulsive and smells really dirty but not in a good way. February 24, 2014 at 2:38pm
Victoria: I finished my package of jasmine pearl tea this morning, and I might have to restock. I should have mentioned as one of the best jasmine boosts, though, of course, it’s not a perfume. If only I could have it captured in a bottle. February 24, 2014 at 5:43pm
Elizabeth: Happy anniversary! Where does the time go? My favorite jasmines are A la Nuit and Love and Tears. I also love the jasmine notes in Seville a l’aube and Parfum de Therese. February 24, 2014 at 2:43pm
Victoria: I really can’t imagine that it’s been that long. But it’s also been nine years of many adventures, discoveries and friendships.
Of course, I knew that I missed something essential. Le Parfum de Therese really should have been on the list, because it has a beautiful jasmine note. February 24, 2014 at 5:44pm
Figuier: Congrats on nine wonderful years & who knows how many words of first-class blogging – and looking forward to celebrating the decade come 2015!! Believe it or not, when I turned to your blog this evening I was just back from the health food store where I’d purchased…jasmine essential oil (2% diluted in coconut)! To go in the bath this eve.
Jasmine is one of my favourite notes, and was my gateway to florals in general. I’ve nothing new to add to the great suggestions already made. My favourite ‘straight’ jasmine, as I’m always saying, is Nasomatto’s Nuda; for a ‘mixed’ version definitely Songes, although nowadays I tend to think of it as more of an evening perfume. The pour un Ete and Love and Tears are also wonderful, and very easy to wear. Lastly, I still really like the jasmine in J’Adore, especially the l’Absolu version, even if it’s no doubt a shadow of its younger self.
Btw, does anyone know if Nuda has any real jasmine in it? It smells so ‘real’… February 24, 2014 at 3:01pm
Victoria: Mmmm, jasmine and coconut marry so well, and 2% is a good dilution. Interestingly enough, jasmine absolute smells more like real blossoms when it’s more diluted, rather than the opposite. Enjoy your bath! 🙂
I think that Nuda has some real jasmine. At least, it smells like it to me. February 24, 2014 at 5:46pm
Adriana Galani: Happy Birthday to Your blog then! Where are the sweets? 🙂
Well, jasmin, so controversed. I keep here Lust and Voile de Jasmin, both so different but good their way. Lust is cruel, almost rudely made I feel, though I have days when I just love it and how I wish Lush names their products a bit more inspiring, as “flying fox” and / or Gorila Perfumes, are concepts for cosmetic products or fragrances just disturbing to my ears.
Voile de Jasmin, yes for an office day, will do. Agree the comments regarding Samsara, jasmin and sandalwood make a lovely combo.
If I really want to be on a jasmin side, the Indian attars are the best handy and if lucky to be home the fragranced sticks will make a nice combo. Had as gift Jasmin Noir (Mon) but couldn’t help disliking it. Well well. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 3:16pm
Victoria: Today I have a Ukrainian poppyseed cake. 🙂
Lust is definitely not a subtle jasmine or the most nature-like, but occasionally it’s just right. Like big, glitzy costume jewelry or an arm full of sparkling bangles. I keep it around for that kind of immediate boost. February 24, 2014 at 5:56pm
Holly: Thanks for the post and congratulations on almost nine years! I adore jasmine, and I agree with others here that there’s nothing like getting the eo or concrete or absolue. So pricey, but better than trying out so many other options that come so close.
If you haven’t tried it yet, I’d like to suggest AbdesSalaam Attar’s Tawaf. Kafkaesque has a nice review.
Also thanks for everyone else’s comments here. I’ve added many to my sample list of infinity. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 3:55pm
Victoria: Thank you, Holly. I’ll be sure to try Tawaf. I even have a sample, but I didn’t get around to it yet. So many perfumes, so little time. Your comment makes me want to try it right away though.
And yes, my sample list can also be called sample list of infinity. 🙂 February 24, 2014 at 6:09pm
maja: Congratulations, Victoria, your blog is one of my favourites ever. 🙂 Looking forward to many more years of you writing it.
Jasmine gets my love, too. And I think it works much, much better on warm evenings around town, there is sort of nocturnal quality to its heady aura. I agree, A la Nuit is pretty much perfect, so balanced and elegant. I did however find Jasminora very good though. I found it very realistic and I am a bit sad I didn’t get the full bottle. 🙂
ps. I bought some years ago a tiny bottle of jasmine oil along Croatian coast. So powerful! One drop lasts for ages. February 24, 2014 at 4:26pm
Victoria: Thank you so much, Maja! 🙂
Is the jasmine essence you bought produced in Croatia? I wonder how it might smell. It’s incredible how much difference exists among the same types of jasmine grown in different regions and climates. Italian is soft and green. India is more animalic and fruity. Egyptian is quite leathery. February 24, 2014 at 6:08pm
maja: I just applied a drop of it and I think that it has some green and some leathery notes at the same time. Could be that jasmines in the Medirranean area share some of the nuances? However I’m here, typing with one hand and sniffing my other wrist and smiling like an idiot! 😀 The power of jasmine! February 25, 2014 at 3:48pm
Victoria: That sounds really wonderful. Some of my favorite jasmine essences are green and leathery. February 25, 2014 at 3:52pm
Liz K: Congratulations on nine years! I can’t even remember to log things briefly on my calendar so 9 years of blogging is quite impressive to me. I love Jasmine but am really sensitive to the indoles and can’t stand to wear anything indolic for fear that people might be offended. My favorite jasmine is Love & Tears and I love the jasmine in SSS Jour Ensoleille. February 24, 2014 at 4:38pm
Victoria: I mentioned it to someone just a moment ago, and I wonder if you’ve tried J’Adore Le Jasmin or J’Adore Absolu. If you like jasmine without too much indole, you might enjoy either one. On the other hand, the jasmine smells in these perfumes believably like jasmine and they are overall really well-crafted. February 24, 2014 at 6:06pm
rainboweyes: Happy 9th anniversary, Victoria! I read your blog in my lunch break every day and it makes me forget my job and enter the world of scents at least for a few minutes. I have great respect for your profound knowledge of perfume – thanks for sharing it with us!
As to jasmine-focused scents – I think there’s only one – Paradis Paradis by Atelier Flou – in my perfume wardrobe. And I put 1932 on my wishlist, I think I’ll wait for the extrait, though.
I love the natural smell of fresh jasmine flowers but still haven’t found a good rendition in perfume. Actually, that’s my problem with most soliflores – roses, peonies, jasmine… I think that might also be the reason why I love iris so much – as the orris butter is extracted from the root, there is no scent known from nature to be compared to! February 24, 2014 at 4:48pm
Victoria: Thank you very much! And thank you for sharing your love of perfumes and iris with us. You’re the most knowledgeable iris perfume lover I know, and it’s always a pleasure to read about your comparisons and discoveries.
I suppose, the soliflorals like roses or jasmine have to compete with the real thing, and it’s so hard. Iris, on the other hand, is in the realm of fantasy for me. The flowers have their own scent, but the smell of the roots, of orris butter is unlike anything else. No wonder perfumers find it so inspiring. February 24, 2014 at 6:01pm
Rose: Congrats on the 9 years!! My favorite jasmine scent is definitely Bleecker Street by Bond No 9. You can smell the jasmine mixed with caramel, cinnamon and vanilla. It is absolutely phenomenal! It literally helps me escape my long days and helps me relax! If I’m not wearing Bleecker Street, then I’m wearing Central Park West, which also has jasmine except this one is definitely spicier! I like wearing CPW when I go out or want to spice it up a little. February 24, 2014 at 5:22pm
Victoria: I haven’t tried Bleecker Street in ages, so I really must revisit it. Your description sounds very nice. February 24, 2014 at 5:58pm
annemariec: Not that I pay much attention to high end skin care products 🙂 , but I notice that Chanel claims that its ‘Jour de Chanel’ face cream contains jasmine extract from Grasse. Apparently it ‘invigorates the skin’. Eh. February 24, 2014 at 6:05pm
Victoria: Hmmm, sounds like a marketing claim. In other words, something of jasmine might be there, but how much and what exactly? Plus, if they say “jasmine extract” rather than “jasmine absolute”, it can also mean anything at all. February 24, 2014 at 6:12pm
annemariec: They definitely say ‘extract’, so who knows? Well, who cares? I’d rather have UVA and UVB protection in my moisturiser than jasmine of any sort. (I get mine from Aldi!) February 25, 2014 at 4:42am
Victoria: My main problem with Chanel skincare (besides the luxurious price tag) is that it just doesn’t suit me. The only time I had a reaction was to a Chanel cream. I’d rather enjoy Chanel perfumes and look elsewhere for skin products. February 25, 2014 at 7:59am
Gían: Victoria, Congratulations on 9 years of your awesome blog. Reading it gives me such comfort & sensory pleasure & truly helps me leave my worries & stress aside for awhile- to me that is true success! I’m glad you finally spoke about Nasomatto’s Nuda! I had sent you an email inquiring about it last week & did not hear back- perhaps you did not receive it or was holding back to address it in this fantastic post? I love animalic, “dirty” jasmines! I had heard that Nuda is a straight-up indolic jasmine with sweaty edge to it & that sounds right up my jasmine alley! I think I’m going to go ahead make a blind purchase of it since you seem to give it your stamp of approval! I know- risky!- but I, too, love SL’s A la nuit & own a FB of it that I purchased blindly based on your gushing enthusiasm for it & it was worth every cent! Thank you so much for sharing this wonderful blog with us! February 24, 2014 at 6:07pm
Victoria: Thank you very much, Gían! And my apologies for not answering. It’s been a rough week, and I’m behind on much of my correspondence. Can you get a sample of Nuda first via decanters or Luckyscent? I don’t think that it’s that sweaty or animalic, and while it’s beautiful, it really needs to be skin tested first. Plus, it’s an expensive perfume, so I would invest into a small sample first. February 24, 2014 at 6:15pm
Lynley: Congratulations on 9years Victoria! I realized quite early when I started reading your blog (about 4yrs ago but I’m sure I’ve read every entry!) that you and I have very similar tastes, with only minor tweaks. Of the ones you listed, I own and love A La Nuit, Nuda, Songes, Mahora. I own Jasmin White Moss and Jasmin et Cigarette although it seems I much prefer my jasmin and white flowers heady and indolic as I dont wear these…
In the budget section I’d add Sikkim Girls by Gorilla Perfumes/Lush, and in the top end Honor by Amouage- tho I suspect the jasmine may be hidden amongst the other white flowers 🙂
I read that Nasomatto discontinued Nuda due to the cost of making it. This would make sense if it were natural jasmine- do you know if much of it is?
Oh! And not to forget Tawaf!! February 24, 2014 at 6:48pm
Gían: Yes, according to Luckyscent it HAS been D/C’d! I don’t know why though- it sounds so exquisite! I really need to get my hands on a sample of it… I have a sample of Nasomatto’s Duro & I think that is very good but I also have a sample of their Narcotic Venus & that was a total letdown for me. Ugh, what to do? February 24, 2014 at 8:48pm
Victoria: Thank you, Lynley. I’ve realized that people who like Mahora are few and far between, so whenever I meet someone else who wears it, it’s like a sure sign “here comes a white floral fan.” 🙂
I heard the same comment about Black Afgano, that it was apparently very expensive to make, which is why the supplies were often patchy. I haven’t checked if it’s around still. I don’t know how much natural jasmine is in it. I haven’t tried to analyze it.
Honor is a good candidate, especially for those who like a combo of white florals and incense. February 25, 2014 at 7:12am
Lynley: And a late P.S.- this post had me thinking jasmine all night so I dropped a big nursery (do you call garden centres nurseries?) and bought a flowering potted sambac jasmine. (and lemon verbena. and night flowering jessamine. and a kaffir lime for my sister. I had a very fragrant car! 🙂 ) I have always had star jasmine (not jasmine but smells so good!) and the normal climbing variety (officinale) but the sambac is divine! February 25, 2014 at 12:21pm
Victoria: I’m envious of all of this fragrant bounty. The next best thing to perfume. 🙂
I now have a star jasmine plant, and while it’s lovely, my husband thinks that it smells like more like new leather wallet than jasmine. And yes, its scent is really odd! February 25, 2014 at 1:05pm
Rednails: Congratulations, Victoria. Nine years is really a labor of love, and I want to thank you for all the thought, love and kindness you’ve put into it. One pretty nice jasmine that hasn’t been mentioned is VCA’s Mumure by two of my favorite commercial noses, Jacques Cavallier and Alberto Morillas. It’s got sambac jasmine surrounded by notes that heighten its floralcy in a nicely blended way. February 24, 2014 at 8:38pm
Victoria: It’s now on my list to try, because the duo of Jacques Cavallier and Alberto Morillas never fail to surprise. Thank you very much. February 25, 2014 at 7:24am
Donna: I have to delurk (after 7 years!) to say Congratulations and happy 9th anniversary! I always enjoy your writing and your reviews and insight into perfumes.
Jasmine is also my favorite note in perfume, but I first came to jasmine 20 years ago when I began training as an aromatherapist. Jasmine essential oil is a perfume on its own!
But my favorite commercial jasmines are both Guerlains: Mahora and Samsara (vintage). February 24, 2014 at 8:43pm
Victoria: Donna, thank you very much, and thank you for delurking! 🙂
What kind of effect do you notice from jasmine essence in your work? I often reach for it when I feel tired and it soothes me, but I also read that it can be stimulating. It’s fascinating how scents can really affect our moods. February 25, 2014 at 7:27am
Donna: Victoria,
Jasmine is a valuable uterine tonic and is primarily used in labor and delivery as it both eases pain and speeds up labor. It can be used for menstrual cramps but there are cheaper alternatives for that (chamomile and marjoram). As you noted, it is an anti-depressant, and it is wonderful for skin care. February 25, 2014 at 1:04pm
Victoria: Thank you, Donna. How would you use it in skincare? Does it depend on skin type? Sorry for all of these questions, but I find it so interesting and would love to learn more. February 25, 2014 at 1:08pm
OperaFan: Happy delurk-ing dear friend!
Victoria, count me in as another one who owns and Loves Mahora. Of course, Samsara is not bad either…
🙂 February 26, 2014 at 12:23pm
Victoria: 🙂 Yay, another Mahora fan. February 26, 2014 at 2:45pm
Elena: 9 years! Thank you, truly, for this wonderful blog which has brought so much pleasure and always, a little reminder to slow down and enjoy life with all of the senses. I adore the scent of jasmine, which reminds me of walking at dusk with my dear departed first dog when I lived in California. A la Nuit came close to satisfying my yearning for that scent but unfortunately my husband recoiled in near horror, and he almost never cares what I wear regardless of how assertive it is. I think I will wear Sarrasins or Lonestar Memories tonight. February 24, 2014 at 8:44pm
Victoria: Thank you, Elena! You’ve reminded me that one of my first memories of California was the aroma of jasmine in the air. My father always thought that California was as close to paradise as you can get, and in his last few years, he refused to travel out of state.
Sarrasins feels milder than A La Nuit to me and probably not as sweet. Perhaps, that’s what your husband dislikes? A La Nuit is definitely a sillage monster. February 25, 2014 at 7:30am
Ann: I meant to chime in earlier, but got called away! Victoria, all I could think of when you said that BdJ is nine years old, is how much fun are nine-year-olds. I hope that what you receive back is at least a small fraction of the pleasure you provide through your blog! I do believe I am thinner, smarter, and more elegant every time I log on. February 24, 2014 at 8:46pm
Victoria: Goodness, thank you, Ann! And yes, I receive so much out of BdJ, out of the thing I learn here, out of the people I meet through these pages. All of that is very special to me. February 25, 2014 at 7:33am
Safran: Happy anniversary, dear Victoria!
I rather like jasmine in a supporting role, than in the main part, but it definitely is present in most of my favourite scents, in combination with rose, tuberose, citrus, amber or woody notes.
Cheers
Safran February 25, 2014 at 1:19am
Victoria: Thank you, Safran!
When I was researching how many jasmine soliflorals there are, I noticed that the number wasn’t that great, especially in comparison to rose, tuberose, orange blossom. But the number of perfumes using jasmine in one form or another is immense. It’s definitely a great supporting note for many genres. Like you, I love the blend of jasmine with woods and amber. Jasmine+citrus is another great duo. February 25, 2014 at 7:50am
Ferris: I have come to appreciate the hot animalic breath of indolic jasmine. First with Serge Lutens A la Nuit then eventually to Patou’s Joy with its beautiful sharp jasmine drenched in civet! I was surprised I actually enjoyed it so much. I also like Annick Goutal’s Songes version of jasmine although as you’ve said is more fruity and banana like with its supporting notes of vanilla, sandalwood, fraganini and tiare flower. So beautiful.
I’ve been looking around and I’ve discovered a new fascinating jasmine that is much cheaper and just as grand as Serge Lutens’ most expensive versions. It is a treasure I found on etsy. it is pure jasmine heaven. it is a perfume oil from the DawntoDuskessentials shop called All That Jazz. OMG. It is a jasmine that will reveal all others. It is my jasmine dream and its so inexpensive. Great stuff!
I really enjoy reading your articles. They are always well researched and such a delight to read over and over. I never tire of your informative thoughts and fragrance reviews.
Congrats on your 9th Anniversary! That is a wonderful milestone. I hope my blog will measure up to yours! I’ll be tuning in for more! February 25, 2014 at 1:58am
Victoria: So you also find Joy animalic? Which concentration do you usually wear?
And thank you! My best wishes to your blog as well. I look forward to seeing more from you! February 25, 2014 at 7:51am
Ferris: No I don’t think Joy is animalic. I just love how the jasmine pierces through the layer of rose and civet. The concentration I wear is the modern edp. How is the edt different? Is it more sharp and indolic?
I find it interesting when you say that most perfume houses don’t use a lot of jasmine absolute in their compositions because it’s so expensive. I totally understand. If that were the case, they would need to plant the entire earth’s surface with jasmine, including the man made islands in Dubai! February 26, 2014 at 1:51am
Cornelia Blimber: I have the vintage Edt and extrait of Joy, to my nose it has an outspoken dirty, animalic edge. Natural civet, I suppose. Well, that poor animal did not suffer for nothing. To throw it away would be a sign of disrespect. Anyway I am glad that there is now synthetic civet. February 26, 2014 at 5:55am
Victoria: The EDT, as I recall, is more jasmine-y and green. It’s a bit sharper than other concentrations.
On another thought, the big fields of jasmine everywhere–that sounds wonderful. 🙂 February 26, 2014 at 10:54am
OperaFan: I have a ’70s vintage of extrait and the skank is very prominent. For years I wore the edp (’99) happily, completely oblivious to the animalic references. I felt that way about the extrait until about a year ago, then Wham! It hit me about an hour after application. I haven’t gone back to try my edp but I’ve a feeling they are very different. February 26, 2014 at 12:51pm
Cornelia Blimber: I know what you mean, but I love that skank. It made the perfume interesting and exciting. The edt had that skank too, but to a lesser degree, it is a bit greener and cleaner.
The current Joy is less intriguing, but still an excellent perfume. February 26, 2014 at 1:17pm
Victoria: I remember the edp being stronger on rose, but I haven’t compared recently. I have a feeling that it may less jasmine than the edt, because of the balance of ingredients, but it’s possible that with the changes of formula, it’s slightly tweaked. February 26, 2014 at 2:46pm
OperaFan: I think it (the skank in the extrait) just hit me so unexpectedly that I’m still trying to figure out why I hadn’t noticed it before. The edp was one of my two wedding day perfumes. No regrets there! February 26, 2014 at 1:51pm
Victoria: An appropriately elegant and statement making wedding perfume, I think! February 26, 2014 at 2:50pm
Cornelia Blimber: I have the impression that I bothered you with my comments on Joy.
In that case, sorry. February 26, 2014 at 3:03pm
Victoria: Cornelia, you certainly did not! It takes much more to bother me than someone’s opinion on Joy (which I in fact do share). No need to apologize for anything. February 26, 2014 at 3:10pm
Cornelia Blimber: I am glad to know that! February 26, 2014 at 5:04pm
Iodine: Happy birrhday BDJ!
Thanks for this post, for every post and for having put up a nice mobile version! My underground rides are not the same! 🙂
Regarding jasmine perfume: my favourite ines are A la Nuit- every early summer I’m on the verge pf buying a FB!- Olène and one I’d love to hear your opinion about: Venezia Giardini Segreti by AbdesSalaam Attar 😉 February 25, 2014 at 2:44am
Victoria: I’m so glad that you like the mobile version! It’s brand new, so I hope that things work properly. And yes, it makes reading via mobile devices so much more comfortable, instead of scrolling back and forth.
Adding another Attar to my list. Thank you! 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 7:54am
MaureenC: I’ve been enjoying your blog regularly for about three years now and it has become my go to Internet read. When I try a new perfume after I’ve had a think about it my next move is to see if you have reviewed it! In your jasmine travels have you encountered Korres Jasmine shower gel? High quality bath and shower products, not too expensive and I love their newish Jasmine. February 25, 2014 at 3:14am
Victoria: Thank you, Maureen. I just tried Korres Jasmine shower gel, and I’m enjoying it very much. When I smelled it out of the bottle, I thought that it was a little flat, but in the shower it changes. I haven’t tried the perfume yet, but it’s on my list now. With all of the extra additions, I might have to run another jasmine update soon. 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 7:56am
kaori: Happy birthday! I will explore jasmin perfume this year! Thank you for your recomendations. February 25, 2014 at 3:49am
Victoria: Thank you, Kaori! Hope that you can find something interesting. 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 7:56am
Michaela: Happy birthday to your blog! I am really grateful for all the information you share, and absolutely delighted with your articles, they are so enchanting and useful.
I owe you my love for V&A First. I blind bought it after reading your review (sorry, I couldn’t resist) and it was such a revelation, the perfume feels exactly as you described it. Thank you! February 25, 2014 at 5:54am
Victoria: Thank you very much, Michaela! Hearing that First was such a winner for you makes me happy. And you were brave to buy it blindly, but it’s wonderful that it worked out so well in the end. February 25, 2014 at 8:02am
Lynley: V, I also blind buy from your reviews, firstly because I know our tastes are very similar, and because I agree with Michaela that your descriptions are so accurate and perfectly evocative- I almost know what a perfume will be like before it arrives. You haven’t been wrong yet! 😉 February 25, 2014 at 12:41pm
Victoria: Phew, I’m glad to hear it! The blind buys are so risky, and I’m glad that you, my perfume twin, haven’t been led astray yet by my random musings. 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 3:42pm
FeralJasmine: For me the perfume obsession started with jasmine, and may end there for all I know. I have small, treasured bottles of several versions of jasmine absolute, and especially love to open the J. sambac vial and release a little magnificent jasmine animal into the air. My top three jasmine scents are the two Lutens and Tawaf. I realize that I’ve never worn all three together, one squirt each. I may have to try this, some evening at home.
Congrats on nine wonderful years, and long may Bois de Jasmin wave! February 25, 2014 at 9:14am
Victoria: If you drink some jasmine tea while wearing your trio of jasmines, you might end up with the ultimate jasmine experience! 🙂
Thank you very much! February 25, 2014 at 11:17am
emaskina: Congratulations, Victoria! Thank you for your beautiful blog!
Jasmine and A La Nuit are all times favourite for me too. But I also like the lighter version of jasmine – Ellena’s 24 Faubourg Eau Delicate – such a clear and transparent! February 25, 2014 at 10:04am
Victoria: Thank you! You make me want to try 24 Faubourg Eau Delicate right away. I enjoy the original, and a couple of its flankers were exquisite. I don’t remember trying Eau Delicate, though. February 25, 2014 at 11:26am
Elia: Congratulations on the 9 year mark!
One of my pet peeves is Jasmine listings in scent pyramids; you can never know if that indicates, sambac, grandiflorum, an overdose of hedione, or even something cruder.
I’ve not sampled A la Nuit closely enough, but I got a distinct sambac impression, in much the same way Alien is distinctly sambac as well as Bublegum Chic.
My own longing for jasmin is for something that resembles the night air full of the grandiflorum scent.
I tried Éclat de Jasmin recently and thought it the closest and most perfect rendition of that night air I’ve managed to find so far. I long to try it again…
I’ll agree that Jasmin 17 is more orange blossom, but it is also at least better than an average perfume, and I find my partner likes it quite a bit!
I’ve heard of White Moss so many times but no one stocks it here…
My own impression of Songes was that it is a horrible little thing, but I’ll have to pull out my sample again to try…
There are quite a few here I’ve yet to try, but look forward to trying one day. February 25, 2014 at 10:07am
Victoria: Elia, thank you very much!
Yes, with jasmine you never know what’s there, but the same thing can be said about pretty much any other note in the pyramid. And some of the things mentioned something don’t even figure in the perfume, because the pyramids are created by the marketing teams, not perfumers.
You may find that Songes is a horrible little thing, no matter how many times you try it. One’s person’s jasmine may be another’s poison, as the case with A La Nuit demonstrates. February 25, 2014 at 11:28am
Bhama: Happy Birthday Bois de Jasmin and congratulations Victoria, for the wonderful nine years!! I stumbled upon your blog two years ago, and have been religiously reading it ever since! I love your exquisitely written posts and beautiful pictures!! As for my favorite Jasmine perfumes, I am still on the hunt for my holy grail one and in the meantime A la Nuit and Van Cleef and Arpels First is filling the spot. I guess I am a jasmine snob and to me nothing captures the smell of fresh jasmine blossoms like the real thing!!I love jasmine sambac and A la nuit smells more like the grandiflora one. I guess I’ll keep on looking!! February 25, 2014 at 12:00pm
Victoria: Thank you, Bhama! I guess real jasmine has so many nuances, especially if you keep smelling the plant throughout the day, and it’s hard to find something that captures the feeling exactly. But it’s fun to search, isn’t it? 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 1:04pm
Tony: Happy birthday to your blog!
Even though I recently discovered it, I will for sure keep following it.
And Jasmine is our favorite scent to mix with, it honestly is one of my favorite floral scents! 🙂 February 25, 2014 at 12:44pm
Victoria: Thank you, Tony! Sounds like we have a big group of jasmine lovers here. February 25, 2014 at 3:43pm
Lynn Morgan: Congrats on nine dazzling years, Victoria! This is the most wonderful perfume blog I have ever found, and I hope you will turn it into a book! Love, Lynn February 25, 2014 at 5:50pm
Victoria: Thank you so much Lyn! And thank you for your encouragement. 🙂 February 26, 2014 at 6:28am
Maren: Congratulations on 9 years! I have learned so much here in just the last year and and a half that I started learning about perfume, including an appreciation for jasmine, knowing your love for this note. I have a FB of By Kilian Love and Tears, but would also like to have A la Nuit at some time. February 25, 2014 at 8:55pm
Victoria: Thank you very much, Maren. I’m pleased to share my love, if not my obsession with jasmine. Love & Tears is a good jasmine to start with, I think, because it’s not too dirty (although it’s not all that innocent and clean either). February 26, 2014 at 6:33am
OperaFan: Late to the celebration, but since you did indicate the actual anniversary is the Spring, I expect the party will continue thru the actual date. So, an early happy anniversary, Dear V!
BdJ has been one of my most valuable reference sources for fragrances, and I’ve also enjoyed our correspondences through the years. May you enjoy many more years of success, productivity, and enjoyment!
As far as jasmin fragrances go, and you know I’m a big jasmin gal, most of my beloved ones have been discussed: Joy, First, La Haie Fleurie among tops of the list. Isn’t it wonderful the abundance of wonderful jasmin perfumes to choose from?
Here is a Jasmine that I haven’t seen mentioned (at least I believe it’s regarded as a predominantly jasmine perfume), Ubar.
Weather in the Northeast is not conducive for growing jasmine outdoors, consequently I’ve grown a potted jasmin for nearly 18 yrs. to keep it growing in the same pot, I trim its roots each year and add potting soil. It thrives outdoors from late spring to early fall and has rewarded me with heady seasonal blooms. I call it my little Bonzai because the main stem looks like a mini trunk of an old tree! February 26, 2014 at 2:13pm
Victoria: You know, I don’t know the exact birthday of Bois de Jasmin. I started it in February of 2005, but for a few months it was just private, as I was learning how blogging worked and wrote articles. I made it public eventually sometime in late April or early May, but the date of the first article has gotten messed up as the blog moved. Anyway, it probably doesn’t matter much. 🙂
Thank you for some extra jasmine recommendations. Ubar should definitely be mentioned.
I finally have a little jasmine plant of my own, and it makes me long to have a proper garden. Another plant I would love it is a rose bush, but I have no idea if it’s possible to grow it here in Brussels (little sun) and indoors. February 26, 2014 at 2:59pm
OperaFan: I’ve never heard of roses being grown as indoor plants unless in greenhouses or you can set up a S/E-facing window box. Maybe try it out with a miniature? In any case, I hope you will enjoy years of pleasure from your potted jasmine plant.
Incidentally, I re-read your original post and saw Tania’s fascinating comment about the correct production of high quality jasmine tea. Now I have to go in search of the “good” stuff based on her guidelines…. February 27, 2014 at 10:35am
Victoria: That’s something to consider! I’ll have to make some nursery trips once it warms up and see what they offer. February 27, 2014 at 12:20pm
Buka: Victoria,
Some time ago i considered rose is to be my flower, but at the moment white florals, including Jasmin becoming one of my favorites: wearing lush compositions with jasmine and tuberose feels so me and not me
at the same time 🙂
Bois de Jasmin is one of the best discoveries for me: a continuous source of learning, beauty and inspiration! February 26, 2014 at 4:09pm
Victoria: Thank you very much, Buka! 🙂 I find that I alternate between different favorite groups, but jasmine always remains one of my most beloved notes. February 27, 2014 at 8:26am
Michael: Glad to see that Sampaquita made your list, I love wearing that in the summer. I’m also fond of Jasmin Vert by Miller Harris. I haven’t tried Le Jasmin from their Perfumers Library range yet.
On a completely unrelated note, I think I am in love with Dan Tes Bras by Frederic Malle. The drydown is incredibly soft, warm, sweet and slightly salty. It’s not one of those fragrances that instantly grabs your attention, but slowly seduces you … March 1, 2014 at 7:50pm
Victoria: If you try Le Jasmin, I’d be curious to hear how it compares to Jasmin Vert for you, Michael.
Dan Tes Bras grew on me slowly but surely. It’s not a dramatic perfume, but it’s so irresistible. March 2, 2014 at 12:22pm
Michael: I stopped by at the Miller Harris boutique to re-test Le Jasmin and Verger yesterday. In comparison with Le Jasmin, Jasmin Vert is a softer, greener fragrance. On my skin, Le Jasmin starts with a blast of citrus notes (grapefruit, bergamot) with a smattering of herbs (rosemary, lavender) before settling into a sweet, floral combination of jasmine, orange flower, cedar and oak moss. I would say that the jasmine note is more pronounced in Jasmin Vert.
I was actually more taken with Verger, as it smells completely different on my skin, compared to the testing stick. I get a constantly evolving scent – one moment it’s the tart and fruity notes of the wild apple accord, the next moment it’s the scent of basil leaves being ripped, intertwined with a hint of damascones, and then it turns slightly creamy (possibly due to the oak moss) – endlessly fascinating … I’m tempted to purchase it, but I already have full bottles of La Feuille and Tuberosa.
On a related note, I was reliably informed that there will be two major launches this year: 1) two La Fumee offshoots – La Fumee Maroc and La Fumee Intense – to complete the existing La Fumee collection and 2) Le Chypre. March 23, 2014 at 7:00pm
Ann: Chiming in again– was in SF today at Le Labo and picked up a bunch of samples… Among them Jasmine 17. Someone may have mentioned it earlier in the comments. I’ve just tested it quickly along with several other fragrances. At first blush it seems a pretty literal jasmine, with maybe some honey suckle and a teensy bit of lemon. Very pretty. It is the absolute antithesis of Chanel No. 5. Wearing it you will definitely smell like a flower! March 1, 2014 at 10:48pm
Ann: Victoria, just noticed that you didn’t find Le Labo’s jasmine convincing… so interesting. I’m not sure how I feel about wearing it–I suspect it might start to remind me of soap, not in a good way, but I need to try it out again and for a longer period. But I really smelled jasmine flowers when I tried it. Certainly in the top notes. But now I’m doubting my nose. I’ll give it another whirl in a few days. Maybe my nose muscle is tired! March 1, 2014 at 11:11pm
Victoria: Ann, you’re right, of course. It does have jasmine, even though mostly it’s a composition based around orange blossom. But jasmine and orange blossom are white floral sister, and Jasmine 17 does smell pretty. Don’t mind me griping. 🙂 March 2, 2014 at 12:16pm
ChanteusedesIles: Wow, Congratulations on 9 years Victoria! Your blog is what got me hooked on learning more about perfumes when I stumbled upon it this new year 🙂 I find your layout so easy to find what I’m looking for, and so beautifully written! I have tried and loved several perfumes based on your descriptions, and really love white florals. So far I find that I love jasmine with other florals and fruity or creamy notes. In fact, I just realized that jasmine is in every one of the bottles I own! I really like A la Nuit, Songes, and I have a sample of Mahora on the way. I did try to get a sample of Enlèvement au Serail from Parfums MDCI but when I emailed them to order it, the lovely Claude Marchal regrettably informed that it is not currently available, because the original formula has to be adapted to IFRAs latest guidelines. So that was disappointing, but I will look for Sarrasins & the other suggestions here 🙂 Though not strictly a perfume, in case other jasmine lovers are interested, I just bought the most amazing smelling beauty product, because it has jasminum officinale in it! It’s called Bohemia Verde Aromatic Hair Elixir by La Bella Figura, and I took one sniff of it in the store and had to have it, it smelled that good. It’s a hair oil, and has helped moisturize my thick, wavy hair this winter. I’m hoping to try some of their face products that also have jasmine in them 🙂 March 4, 2014 at 10:56pm
Victoria: Thank you very much! I’m glad that you enjoy it here, and I appreciate your nice feedback.
If you love Mahora, then you need not doubt your affection for white florals. 🙂 I do too, and if I want big, fun and glitzy, Mahora comes out.
La Bella Figura hair oil sounds wonderful, as is any other jasmine scented product. There aren’t so many of them. March 5, 2014 at 11:47am
Gentiana: Congratulations for the 9 years of blog!
I have strong memories about jasmine scent in my childhood and I always was puzzled how the same bush once can have a divine scent and in another day it can smell like stale pee and rotten vegetables.
Anyway, “the good” jasmine scent in nature was always one of my favorite aromas. When jasmine bushes come in bloom, I would literally like to move my bed, my table, my living in a bush.
Jasmine perfumes are, alas! a completely different story.
On my skin… it is better to forget how they smell. If they don’t smell like stale or rotten things, they are acid or smell like a chemical lab (when ozonic- sinthetic musc- sinthetic jasmine is used).
Sorry to say it, the worst of all was A la Nuit, please don’t ask me how many kinds of BO- and not only- did it evoke…
The animalic-dirty ones sometimes work on clothes or courtains :)… The chemical ones// nope.
But there is hope!
And it’s name is Songes. The first jasmine dominated perfume that really smells good on me, stole my heart and therefore I bought one year ago a FB. And use it when it is no flowering jasmine bush to satisfy my crave for it, and to cheer up. Or when jasmine bushes bloom, to have a wonderful dialogue with them. March 13, 2014 at 8:22am
Victoria: Gentiana, thank you so much! 🙂
Oy, doesn’t sound like jasmines work that well for you, but Songes seems more successful, maybe because its jasmine bouquet is more blended. March 13, 2014 at 11:16am
Gentiana: Oh yes!
And Joy!
I bought it blind in 2008, based on descriptions and reviews. Total disappointment. Gave more tries… got only skank. No, not skank… SSSKKKAAANNNKKK!
Or, best case (well, sort of) – a sharp, metallic, aggressive smell, cutting nose like a blade.
Since about one year we became friends, and it looks like a true love is developing.
Might be the change I made in my food and life? (Quitted smoking, eating less red meat, less fried food, more vegetables, more raw, many eastern spices) March 13, 2014 at 8:33am
Victoria: This is such a great story! 🙂 March 13, 2014 at 11:20am
Gentiana: Well, revisiting some of the jasmine (and generally white flower perfumes) I had a strange idea. Maybe I am wrong, but I have to say it.
White flowers and especially jasmine work as olfactory mirrors.
Yes. Their smell reflects our being at that moment.
In all cultures, philosophies, religions, white flowers have strong symbolism.
Cold? Agressive? Metallic? Acid? Animalic? Skanky? Uncomfortable, without any particular definition?
We think we don’t like the flower… What if the Flower doesn’t like us?
Take it “avec un grain de sel”, of course.
🙂 April 7, 2014 at 9:40am
Victoria: An interesting point of view! I like it. 🙂 April 7, 2014 at 12:08pm
Gentiana: 🙂 April 8, 2014 at 6:37am
Rebecca: Thank you for this informative analysis of jasmine perfumes!
I recently bought Creed’s Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie hoping it would have a lovely jasmine scent (based on reviews I had read at other sites)… disappointed does not begin to describe my feelings! It’s just awful, and is so musky. I cannot detect the jasmine at all!! It is the first and probably last perfume I will ever buy without first trying it in person. Such a mistake. Fortunately, about a week before that debacle, I bought Modern Muse, and have been enjoying it – so lovely and feminine, it just doesn’t last very long on me.
So many of the jasmine perfumes you mentioned sound lovely – what it the best way to find samples? I’m on that eternal journey of finding just the perfect scent, that smells delicious on me and to me! 🙂
Thanks! June 24, 2014 at 7:32pm
Victoria: If you like Modern Muse, you might enjoy fresher, more modern jasmines. Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss is a different take, greener, more citrusy, but it’s beautiful too. For instance, Chanel Gardenia has a pretty jasmine note, so is Annick Goutal Songes. But blind buys are never a good idea, because you might end up with an expensive mistake.
As for samples, I recommend Luckyscent, Aedes, First-in-Fragrance and Surrender to Chance. June 25, 2014 at 10:30am
Angelique: Thank you for your monsterfully informative reviews and articles. I always enjoy reading and rereading them.
I have a signature perfume that I’ve used since the beginning of this year: it is a natural brand, Pure Essence. they have acomfortable variety of crystallised perfumes. My favourite, of course, is Jasmine. It is not overbearing at all, and brings to mind summer nights in out front garden with the darker oriental ambience of insence. I love that it blends well with my vanilla body spray and neroli facial oils. There isn’t the faintest hint of the sharp, aldehyde smell. Instead, it leaves a rather dreamy musk occasionally wafting toward your nose. Although subtle in construction, it is by no means weak and it lasts a very long time – one application in the morning is all you need. You will keep smelling lovely until you decide to wash it off at night or the next morning. It’s as though the fragrance remains the same. It comes in an adorable, handcarved wooden container as well. August 2, 2014 at 3:15am
Victoria: Sounds lovely, Angelique! I’ll have to try it.
And thank you very much for your nice compliment. 🙂 August 3, 2014 at 10:37am
Suzanne Delmerico: So glad to have happened upon your blog!
I had thought I had searched high and low for
the Fragrance I seek but I see I haven’t even scratched the surface. Perhaps you could help me narrow it down. I am yearning for White Star Jasmine. Mellony, buttery and lacking incense.
On one end of my spectrum I love Lyric and Shalimar, but what I seek in Jasmine is the opposite. Not terribly articulate but I hope it conveys the idea.
Apparently I have 9 yrs of reading to catch up on now! September 27, 2014 at 3:05pm
Victoria: Suzanne, Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge might be interesting. The downside is that it is expensive, but for a light, not too heavy and really well-crafted jasmine, it is great. Marc Jacobs also had a terrific perfume called Blush, but it has been discontinued. Or try Chanrl Gardenia (Nevermind the name, it is a jasmine perfume.) September 28, 2014 at 7:39am
rosestrang: Hi Victoria, I was just considering whether or not to buy Lush Lust and happened upon this enjoyably long thread on jasmine!
I too love A la Nuit, but in a way it’s simple in as much as it’s all about jasmine. I don’t wear it often outside except in summer (Scottish summer so not too hot!) but do spray it on at home while working as I find it uplifting and sunny.
I was thinking how much I love jasmine in Diorella and Diorama. I’m pretty sure I prefer Sambac jasmine having tried Bruno Acampora’s Jasmine T which I think is grandiflora, similar to the jasmine I smell in Joy, which I’m afraid I find extremely urinous- really like a very busy men’s urinal! I also tried Maroc pour Elle which was like the overflow from a broken loo that someone tried to disguise with heavy sweet incense, though somehow it smells great on my sister who has very warm skin.
Do you happen to know if Lush Lust’s jasmine is sambac or grandiflora? If the former I’ll buy it! January 10, 2015 at 3:58am
Victoria: Glad that you liked it!
Lush website lists Jasminum grandiflorum absolute in Lust, but I’m sure that it has a mixture of jasmine naturals and synthetics. You simply can’t achieve this kind of impact using the natural jasmine alone, and the result would be too dense and heavy. January 10, 2015 at 8:47am
JM Ledwell: Thanks for the detailed breakdown on one of my favorite scents. Been meaning to try Estee Lauder’s Jasmine White Moss. I adore Acqua Di Parma’s Gelsomino, I think its so sophisticated and I can smell the jasmine in there, but I m also a big AdP fan. I have and adore SMN’s Gelsomino, love the Jasmine soap also and like AdP the scent is mixed in a way that’s almost masculine so maybe not for you. Another fave of mine, Bulgari’s Jasmine Noir, so rich and so unique and sweet, I love it. If you like Jasmin Sambac, Givenchy’s Special edition, Angel ou Devil Harvest 2010 Collection is a gem. March 11, 2015 at 8:41pm
Victoria: Thank you for adding more jasmine ideas, JM! One can never have too many jasmines, in my opinion. 🙂 March 12, 2015 at 1:27pm
Melina: Finally, a lovely blog with in depth description on the composition and wearability of fragrance. I’m searching for an upscale version of bath and bodyworks night blooming jasmine, recommendations welcome April 30, 2015 at 11:47am
Victoria: Thank you, Melinda!
I’d recommend Serge Lutens Sarrasins or Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge. There is also Chantecaille Jasmine, which is breezy and bright. Sarrasins starts out velvety and warm, but it has a lot of radiance. Another Lutens’s jasmine I like is A La Nuit. It used to be dark and lush, but it has been reformulated recently, and it feels much softer. April 30, 2015 at 12:44pm
Mia Dixon: I feel in love with your blog which provides articles worth reading, special from you! And i like jesmine too 🙂 September 30, 2015 at 2:28am
Victoria: Thank you very much, Mia. 🙂 September 30, 2015 at 11:48am
Cara M.: I’m very late to this party but congratulations on now 15 years with this blog! Jasmine is in my top 3 of favorite flowers, along with lilac and the overpowering, cloying scent of Easter that is the hyacinth, but jasmine is my favorite scent to wear. My first semi soliflore was the 2015 limited edition Jasmine by Fragonard, which was a gift from my Mother from her trip to Nice. It’s a very light jasmine but was nice for spring. Alien is a favorite, I don’t notice the grape soda on myself, just jasmine and warm amber and sandalwood. It’s my go to fall/winter scent along with Donna Karan Cashmere Mist EDP, another warm jasmine. In warmer months, I wear Nest’s Wisteria Blue, a combo of jasmine, wisteria and watery nuances that on me is very fresh and almost cold, which I attribute to the water note.
I came across your site as I’m getting into more niche fragrances and it’s been very helpful. Recent popular designer trends include fruity florals, gourmands and vanilla heavy scents, all of which I really dislike. I don’t want to smell like a bakery, candy shop or 13 year old wearing her first Vanilla Fields. Also, fruity/citrus notes don’t mix well with my body chemistry as I end up smelling like lemon fresh Pledge or Lysol.
I’ve had my eye on A La Nuit for a while and am going to get a decanted trial before taking the plunge and have saved a few of your posts with other jasmine recommendations. The one designer scent I’m actually interested in is Gucci Bloom as it’s jasmine, tuberose and rangoon creeper, a note I’m not familiar with but descriptions all sound like it would be right up my street. I always try to get a sample before buying a new fragrance but because of the pandemic, samples are not given out anymore and, here in NYC, many stores aren’t even putting out testers anymore. Good thing the internet has decanters!
I apologize for this incredibly long novel of a comment! I’m now subscribed and look forward to reading back content and new posts! July 25, 2020 at 6:19pm