Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
A few years ago, Jasmin Rouge would have had me rushing immediately to the perfume store. The idea of a jasmine laced with spices and enrobed in ambers and woods would have been so appealing that I doubt I would have followed the sensible rule of never buying blindly. Yet, today Tom Ford Jasmin Rouge arrives at a moment when there are already several excellent jasmine dominated compositions on the market so it has plenty of competition. It is an elegant composition, but given its luxurious pricing, I would prefer more surprise and character.
The jasmine character of Jasmin Rouge runs through the entire composition, from the green top notes laced with orange and cardamom to the ambery and indolic drydown. The crisp freshness of the opening accords is layered over the voluptuous richness of the floral notes. While jasmine is the main floral character, there is a distinctive presence of orange blossom and ylang ylang, which have a beautiful buttery quality. The bright, resinous note of pepper suggests both incense and wood, while the sweetness of vanilla rounds out its sharpness.
The first hint of disappointment comes as the fragrance begins to settle into its drydown. The richness of the initial chords wanes and there is nothing to replace it. The fragrance begins to fade into a limpid and predictable pale wood and sharp amber accord. In comparison to the jasmine gold standard Serge Lutens A La Nuit, the leathery Serge Lutens Sarrasins, or the romantic by Kilian Love & Tears, Jasmin Rouge is simply an up-market version of a familiar crisp fruity floral. Though it is lovely, it does not offer any revelations.
Tom Ford Private Blend Jasmin Rouge includes notes of bergamot, mandarin, cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, black pepper, white pepper, broom flower, jasmine sambac, neroli, ylang ylang, clary sage, Mexican vanilla, leather, woody notes, amber and labdanum. Private Blend collection is available at the Tom Ford boutiques, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Saks5thAvenue. The Eau de Parfum–$195 (50ml), $475 (250ml).
Sample: my own acquisition
15 Comments
Natalia: i have tried it a couple of days ago as well. it is very pretty and does indeed have a beautiful opening, but by the time it got to the dry down the impression i had was something resembling the bottle – slick, red, see through – as in no secrets. i would love to wear it from time to time, but not with this price tag.
have you tried Santal Blush? it was super lasting on me, but i also doubt i’m ready to buy – except that i will retry both fragrances, of course. August 30, 2011 at 2:39pm
zazie: I love jasmine-centered compositions, but most of them fail in their drydown – a la nuit for example, I bought a full bottle, but am still whining for the cruel lack of a base.
Most of the other fragrances settle into some safe clean musky territory – a solution that in the best cases (BK L&T) I might find extremely pretty, but never exciting.
The new jasmine fragrance from acqua di parma is very nice (and a bargain -almost), but it also dries down without much character…
Seems that this TF is not the answer to my quest, but still I’ll give it a try! August 31, 2011 at 6:42am
chayaruchama: Dear V-
You’ve nailed it [ once again;-0] !
Why not wear La Haie Fleurie instead ?
And yet again, the ambrox-tinted base annoys my nose- although it could have been worse.
The price point doesn’t feel commensurate with pleasure derived 🙁 August 31, 2011 at 8:55am
Suzanna: Glad to save myself a special trip to try this one–and now will wait on your review of the Acqua di Parma before scuttling all plans to try/buy these fall jasmine offerings.
Chaya–indeed, why not Haie Fleurie? I am going to SOTD it–great idea! August 31, 2011 at 9:13am
maggiecat: I’m still searching for the perfect jasmine scent. I’ll get a sample of this when I can, but even if it’s perfect, I won’t be able to afford it! I have higher hopes for the Acqua di parma… August 31, 2011 at 10:33am
Victoria: I am going to post Santal Blush review tomorrow. I am not that thrilled with these two launches, especially given the price point. $475 for 100ml…. Well, at this price the fragrance has to be spectacular, not merely pretty. August 31, 2011 at 10:41am
Victoria: I am looking forward to trying AdP Gelsomino then. Sounds like a lovely launch, within a reasonable price bracket. August 31, 2011 at 10:42am
Victoria: I agree, Chaya! La Haie Fleurie is fantastic, heady, elegant and distinctive.
>>The price point doesn’t feel commensurate with pleasure derived 🙁
Agree completely! August 31, 2011 at 10:43am
Victoria: There are so many jasmines this season, so at least we have our pick! August 31, 2011 at 10:44am
Victoria: I am always searching for a great jasmine. A La Nuit and some others I mentioned are beautiful, but I love this note so much, I feel that I can never get enough. August 31, 2011 at 10:45am
Annia: Hello Victoria,
I love Jasmines too, since I was a teenager. I bought my first from Rene’s Perfumes in New Orleans. If you could only have one, which would it be?
I really loved the original Carolina Herrera and thought I’d found my signature scent but it has been changed. If you’re familiar with it, could you please tell me what I could wear that would be close to it? Do you know anyplace that still sells the original? Thanks September 4, 2011 at 4:34pm
Raluca: I tried this a few days ago and really liked it but I agree with you that there’s nothing special about it. It is a lot like Love & Tears by Killian. SL A La Nuit is a much better fragrance. December 6, 2011 at 12:27pm
Hannah: I just got a (complimentary with order) sample of this, mostly to fill a void since I steer clear of jasmine. I feel a bit of remorse and I’m wishing I had asked for Shanghai Lily. Oh, well.
Since I don’t like white florals, A La Nuit is kind of like a nightmare to me. I don’t think Jasmin Rouge smells like the actual flower, as much as it smells like jasmine tea. I think this makes Jasmin Rouge easier for me to handle. I also do like the ylang ylang in it.
Luckily I don’t find any sharpness in the dry-down. It is just a nice but very indistinct dry-down.
A few reviews mention syrupy notes but I don’t get anything like that. By now I know not to put too much stock into perfume names, but there’s nothing ”red” about it. I think if I want ”Jasmin Rouge”, I’d rather turn to Samsara. July 18, 2014 at 9:32pm
Surbhi: Have you tried any fragrances from Arabian oud? They have some oil based perfumes. One of them is pure jasmine. Sometimes I like it as is. Sometime I spray some oud on it to make it easier for people who are not a jasmine fan. Still trying to find a perfect jasmine fragrance. November 4, 2015 at 9:39pm
Victoria: I have tried a few, and yes, their jasmine is very nice. November 5, 2015 at 9:24am