Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
In many ways, Chanel No 22 is the quintessential aldehydic* fragrance. It is difficult for me to envision a better classical treatment of aldehydes. While No 5 is much more well-known and praised, I find the delicate beauty of No 22 to be particularly exquisite. Vivid and tender, it alternates between elegant aloofness and sweet warmth, all the while being polished and seamless. If pearls had a scent, their lustrous smoothness would be redolent of No 22….
With its composition of white flowers, No 22 was launched as a perfume capturing the spirit of White Look. Its creator was Ernest Beaux, a genius perfumer responsible for many Chanel gems, including No 5, Gardénia, Bois des Îles and Cuir de Russie. Michael Edwards mentions in his book Perfume Legends that No 22 was one of the samples presented to Coco Chanel when she was looking to launch her first perfume. While she selected the sample that became No 5, No 22 was introduced in 1922, a year after No 5. A classical aldehydic floral, it opens up with the sparkle of aldehydes, their slightly starched and metallic tonality lightening their powdery effect.
The scintillating white foil of aldehydes is a perfect backdrop for the sweet floral accords, softening their opulence and smoothing the heady elements into satiny perfection. The heart of No 22 is comprised of beautifully indolic jasmine, orange blossom, and also the green tartness of lilac and the buttery sweetness of rose. Paired with the woody and vanillic notes of the base, the fragrance assumes a radiant and lush character, with chiffon like lightness.
As is usually the case, the parfum concentration is superior as is the quality of the flower absolutes. The difference between the parfum and the EDT is like that between cake made with dark chocolate and one flavored with bittersweet cocoa powder. In other words, both are luscious, but the former is much more so. The parfum stays closer to the skin, creating a soft, intimate effect that I prefer to that of the sharper, brighter EDT.
Chanel No 22 is part of Les Exclusifs collection, which also includes Gardénia, Bois des Îles and Cuir de Russie. It is soon to be joined by Coromandel, 28 La Pausa, Bel Respiro, No. 18, 31, rue Cambon, and Eau de Cologne. The official list of notes for No 22 is as follows: orange blossom, peach, citrus, orchid, rose, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla. Available from Chanel boutiques. Please note that Chanel is changing the packaging of its Les Exclusifs collection; therefore, if you have a preference for the original flacons, be sure to act quickly. Adding to clarify: the parfum versions of the existing Les Exclusifs collection are not being discontinued.
Photo of freshwater pearl from Pearls and Jade.
72 Comments
Madelyn E: Dear Victoria,
The sight of the photo of the white pearl is os poignant ..it almost hurts. I, too associate the splendor that is Chanel No. 22 with a quintessential feminine warmth and elegance. Why. Because my farther presented my mother with a one ounce bottle of the No.22 perfume in June 1947–their wedding day. So..I have come to associate this creamy, “white” creation with romantic love. Indeed if No. 5 is the more popular kid on the block, No. 22 would be her shy sister, reticent , demure..in the background. But ,at the same time . capable and confidant.
I prefer what I remember to be the parfum.. as I find the EDT somewhat thin. Sadly, I can only remember finding only the EDT .. during the course of my many perfume excursions.
Thank you dear Victoria for such an eloquent review as only you can compose.
Madelyn E January 9, 2007 at 2:50am
aryse: Good morning Victoria,
In the new exclusive ones that you announce, I noticed Bel Respiro. This beautiful composition is a fragrance which evokes the printems: buds in blossoming, stems and sheets. A taste of revival… Waouh January 9, 2007 at 4:40am
aryse: OHHHHH…Sorry for printems.I mean spring !!!!!! January 9, 2007 at 4:44am
Sisonne: Dear V,
I think I´ve smelled No.22 once, but can´t remember – which means it didn´t impress me, but as taste changes & I might enjoy it now much more.
As far as I know the parfum version won´t be available anymore as soon as the new collection of EdC 200 ml & 400 ml bottles comes out. January 9, 2007 at 7:24am
March: V — I haven’t been lucky enough to try the parfum (yet! — but my day is coming…) however, I love the drydown of the EDT, to/on me it smells very much like incense. I’m very much looking forward to Les Exclusifs. January 9, 2007 at 7:36am
chayaruchama: Pretty exquisite stuff-
Heady, indolic, intoxicating…
And I don’t even consider myself a natural-born floral girl.
I love to anoint myself in this from time to time… January 9, 2007 at 8:12am
Judith: Beautiful review of a beautiful fragrance. I am wondering, though, at the substitution of this for Putain des Palaces. . . Does that (or the name) conjure up Chanel 22?:) January 9, 2007 at 8:49am
Amandampc: Cheers Victoria! I adore 22 and your thoughtful review, which so astutely covers that starchy (aldehydic) quality that rather closely mimics iris to my nose. This fragrance is definitely a permanent fixture for me and one everyone should try at least once, I think, for its subtlety, such a contrast to the vividness of 5 and the formality of 19. I long to try the parfum though for lifestyle reasons (ease of application, mainly) the EDT works very well for me. The body lotion, by the way, is markedly more rose-infused than the fragrance and fairly different in character, which I find unusual. January 9, 2007 at 10:47am
patchamour: Beautiful review, as always. Victoria, I remember your mentioning once that you work a certain perfume when you wanted to stay especially focused on your work. I think it was Opium….? I haven’t found this comment by searching the blog, but I’m always in need of better concentration, if you’d be so kind. January 9, 2007 at 10:53am
AngelaS: In the good old days, No. 22 was sold in drugstores, along with Nos. 5 and 19 and Cristalle. I could buy it at the mall in the old timber town where I grew up. Now it’s an Exclusif! No. 22 will always be special to me, since it’s the first real perfume I ever wore. January 9, 2007 at 12:28pm
Madelyn E: Dear Victoria,
hi. On another subject . i received yesterday some Guerlain fragrance samples from Bergdorf Goodman. Finally. I was not prepared to fallso hard for Vol De Nuit followed by Apres L’ondee and Eau De Liu. (Rose Kennedy is supposed to have worn that ).
Anyway, I love the history and romance associated with Vol de Nuit – Aeropostale. Antoine de St.Exupery. Authpr of The Little Prince and much more..etc.
I was never able to fully appreciate Guerlain having worn in the distant past Shalimar , Jardin De Bagatelle and more recently Insolence.
Imfact. Insolence reminds me of a combo Apres L’ondee with more vanilla and violet .
I am in trouble now I just bought Soir De Lune.. I think Vol De Nuit may be next if I could get my hands on the parfum extrait .
Warm Scented Regards –
Madelyn E
PS- No luck w the Absinthe lecture. Sadly the email I received said – sold out January 9, 2007 at 12:55pm
Patricia Seybold: Happy New Year! This is way off topic here but I wonder if anyone has been able to get a whiff of Francis Kurkdjian”s Sillage de la Reine? I believe it is at Harrods and of course at Versailles. Out of everybody’s price range but someone out there may have a chance to sniff. Just wondering….
patricia January 9, 2007 at 2:28pm
Sisonne: V, I emailed Chanel & they told me that will discontinue the parfums. I was really shocked to hear that, but due to the fact that the news came directly from Chanel I almost believe that it´s true…would be really a shame 🙁
P.S. Did you get my email? I´m not sure if I wrote to the right adress. January 9, 2007 at 2:40pm
Marina: Adore Chanel 22 and your review! January 9, 2007 at 9:49am
Sisonne: I cannot believe it because I think – even if I like the EdTs – the parfums are so beautiful. I wish they would bring outer less new scents & the prafums stayed in the line – or they added the newer ones in parfum versions. I mean, who needs 400 ml bottles?! January 9, 2007 at 3:07pm
Tania: I have a feeling that my impression of this one would vastly improve if I smelled the parfum. I always thought the EDT was beautiful but too sweet and a little thin. This wouldn’t be the first time I latched onto something just when it became unattainable. January 9, 2007 at 10:41am
Tigs: This one is the powder of all powders for me. I love it even though I don’t generally like powders. Turin said that he almost prefered White Linen because he found this one a tad sweet, but I’ve tried White Linen and I simply don’t like it as much, too bright, I think. January 9, 2007 at 11:27am
Marian Bendeth: Beautifully written Victoria, as always!
A lovely hommage to a fragrance of the calibre of a Rembrandt, Beethoven or Chaucer.
I adore the startling white diffusive qualities this gem radiates. For me,’she’ is a diamond, cold, breathtakingly beautiful, a tad austere yet mesmerizing all the same.
Marian Bendeth January 9, 2007 at 5:13pm
BoisdeJasmin: Madelyn, what a beautiful memory! I find it very touching. I remember my grandfather giving my grandmother a bottle of L’Air du Temps, and to this day, it is such a special fragrance for me. My mother wore it as well.
I agree that the EDT is too thin. January 9, 2007 at 1:27pm
BoisdeJasmin: Aryse, the name alone Bel Respiro sounds beautiful! I cannot wait for the release of these fragrances. January 9, 2007 at 1:32pm
BoisdeJasmin: Aryse, spring is on my mind lately. It is also helping that the weather cannot be more spring-like (an abnormality for these parts!) January 9, 2007 at 1:33pm
BoisdeJasmin: Dear C, I did not hear the parfum discontinuation news, but it would be awful if this were indeed the case! January 9, 2007 at 1:33pm
BoisdeJasmin: March, the EDT and the parfum have the same tinge of incense, although I find it very subtle and more of the sandalwood facet than true incense. The parfum is definitely worth trying! January 9, 2007 at 1:38pm
BoisdeJasmin: Chaya, it is gorgeous, isn’t it! January 9, 2007 at 1:39pm
BoisdeJasmin: J, you are too funny! 🙂 I only meant that Putain des Palaces would be the next ELDO review. I find it a bit tedious to write reviews of fragrances from the same house for a few days days in a row, even if they are different. One still has to keep in mind the concept of the line, etc. Putain des Palaces might come tomorrow, or later in the week. I have not decided yet. January 9, 2007 at 1:42pm
BoisdeJasmin: Marina, thank you! January 9, 2007 at 1:44pm
Elle: Gorgeous review! The association w/ a pearl is so perfect. But, I’m horrified to read that they are d/cing the parfum versions. I knew that was happening w/ Bois des Iles, but somehow had not realized that all of them were meeting w/ that fate. How awful! My stockpiling impulses are having a serious war right now w/ the budget sided part of my brain. January 9, 2007 at 6:56pm
BoisdeJasmin: Tania, it used to be available everywhere. I had the parfum in a 1/4oz spray at one point. Now, it is available only in Paris. January 9, 2007 at 1:59pm
Gaia, the non-blonde: I’ll have to give it another chance. I have a feeling that trying the parfum would make the difference. Another must-do for my spring trip to Paris. January 9, 2007 at 2:16pm
BoisdeJasmin: Amanda, thank you very much for your thoughts on No 22. Now, I am intrigued enough to find the body lotion. I used to love the fact that Chanel had an extensive ancillary collection for their classical scents, but this does not seem to be quite the case these days. Except for No 5, of course. January 9, 2007 at 2:22pm
BoisdeJasmin: Patchamour, Opium is the opposite of that for me, even though I love it. 🙂 If I need to concentrate, I wear something with violet, incense or orange blossom. These scents are calming, which helps with concentration. January 9, 2007 at 2:23pm
BoisdeJasmin: Tigs, White Linen is striking, but I find that it has been reformulated too much. Of course, the parfum is the best in White Linen and very reasonably priced. I got a 2oz spray bottle of parfum for under $40. January 9, 2007 at 2:24pm
BoisdeJasmin: Angela, I know exactly what you mean! Even a few years ago you could find No 19 and No 22 in the parfum freely, and now they are available only in Paris. What a shame! January 9, 2007 at 2:26pm
BoisdeJasmin: Madelyn, oh, it is too bad! Well, there is another interesting lecture on tea coming up, so we might try our luck then.
I am thrilled to hear that you are discovering more of my beloved Guerlain fragrances. Vol de Nuit is indeed magical. Your comparison of Insolence to Apres L’Ondee is right now, as Maurice Roucel himself admited that it was his inspiration. January 9, 2007 at 2:28pm
BoisdeJasmin: Gaia, please do! It is a great fragrance to savour by returning to it again and again. The parfum is just magical. January 9, 2007 at 2:29pm
BoisdeJasmin: Patricia, I have not tried it yet, but I heard from a few perfumers that it was not very representative of the time it is meant to represent. Well, I shall reserve my opinion till I try it. Meanwhile, I hope that someone who has smelled it could share his/her thoughts. January 9, 2007 at 2:31pm
BoisdeJasmin: C, oh, no! These are very sad news! I am very disappointed that they decided to do this. Thank you for clarifying though.
Yes, I did, and I just answered. January 9, 2007 at 2:44pm
Madelyn E: Dear Victoria,
As I am reviewing the vaious and sundry comments of your readers .something ….terrible dawns on me– If I read correctly.. is Chanel going to discontinue the parfum version of Bois Des Iles ( my beloved jewel)and the other Rue de Cambon line? Elle, & Sisonne seemed to say that. I am nearly faint eith concern. Bois Des Iles (the parfum) is perfection. The EDT can not hold a candle to it. I’m with Elle..my stockpiling impulse is now definitely at odds with my budget side. how can one find out – dear V..email Chanel Paris ?
Madelyn E January 10, 2007 at 1:50am
Sisonne: Dear Madelyn E,
I´m not V 😉 but I emailed Chanel & asked them where I could still find a bottle of BdÎ & CdR (stockpiling impulse, you know ;D ) & they were very helpful: within one day I got an answer telling me where I still can purchase them.
I hope this helped you a bit? January 10, 2007 at 7:32am
Madelyn E: Dear Sosonne and Victoria,
According to Jennifer of Chanel (57th Street Boutique) Ny – the Parfumversions of the Rue Cambon Collectiom are NOT being discontinued. Sigh….. relief… I made it clear that it was the extrait (psrfum0 pure perfume I was talking about – the EDT.
Thank you Sisonne for your caring remark !!!
Have a great day !
Madelyn E January 10, 2007 at 12:47pm
Sisonne: V, I can´t believe what I hear! Why do they say things like that if they aren´t true??? Or do they discontinue them only here in Germany? I´m really a bit angry – of course not because they aren´t discontinued (that´s good news for sure!)but because some people at Chanel don´t seem to know what they are talking about! January 10, 2007 at 2:35pm
BoisdeJasmin: C, I contacted Chanel and they were adamant that they are not discontinuing the parfums. Good news! January 10, 2007 at 1:18pm
BoisdeJasmin: Marian, what a beautiful description! I am touched by your compliment. Thank you very much. No 22 is one of my favourite Chanel fragrances. January 10, 2007 at 1:19pm
BoisdeJasmin: Elle, no need to worry! Per Chanel rep, they are not being discontinued. Good thing that I contacted them to clarify, otherwise I would panic. 🙂 The parfums are my favourite ways to enjoy these fragrances. January 10, 2007 at 1:20pm
BoisdeJasmin: Madelyn, thank you for contacting them as well! Good thing we clarified it. For those who love the parfums, the discontinuation would be awful news indeed. Now, I can wear my Cuir de Russie with abandon. 🙂 January 10, 2007 at 1:22pm
Washington Cube: I will always be sentimental about Chanel No. 22. It was my first serious scent at age 15 and, in effect, launched me into the world of perfume. Yes, it’s powdery, but as someone before me said, “It’s the ultimate powder scent.”
My current problem is that I’ve evolved beyond anything you find in department stores (and I live in a large city), and I realize I have finally entered the pursuit of the perfumes written about on these speciality blogs.
At the time, I am tired of everything I am wearing and looking for that one special thing. In truth, several special things since I change perfumes with season and social events. January 11, 2007 at 5:54pm
Shooey: What a lovely article, i am going to try chanel 22, i love no 5.
Does anybody know what perfume has that warm baby powder kind of sweetness in the chanel range? September 5, 2007 at 10:20am
Shooey: What a lovely article, i am going to try chanel 22, i love no 5.
Does anybody know what perfume has that warm baby powder kind of sweetness in the chanel range? September 5, 2007 at 10:21am
SHB: HELP! I love Chanel 22 lotion. I have a bottle from years ago that still smell beautiful. I want more because it is running out and cannot find it anywhere. I never liked the scent of the the edt– only the lotion or the body cream.
WHAT can I buy to replace it? I don’t care if it is an edt or edp or oil or anything but it has to smell like the lotion or the body cream.
Any advice? November 17, 2007 at 5:20pm
Carlos Vega: No.22 is a horrible fragrance. To place it in the vicinity of such lovely fragrances as Coromondel and Bel Respiro is a gigantic mistake. You will choke on the awful fragrance of No. 22 and wonder whether it’s a joke that this was released. No wonder they didn’t also give it a name! December 27, 2007 at 6:53pm
perfumekev: ahhhh!!!! No. 22 is one of Beaux’s masterpieces. I only have vintage bottles so I don’t know what it smells like now. I hope it is as close to the original as possible.
For me it is a very close take on the vintage formulations of Quelques Fleurs, However it is much more intense, and aldehydic. The powdery aspect is so perfectly balanced against the aldehydes and flowers. It is a very intoxicating fragrance. I feel as though it is best worn in cooler weather.
I am comparing the vintage Parfum no. 22 to vintage Quelques Fluers Parfum and vintage Bellodgia parfum all three have close olfactive profiles. Quelques Fluers is the most soft and restrained, Bellogia is more impactful and very clove bud Absolute and Carnation, with lots of Tolu and Benzoin, while the bouquet of no. 22 is pumped up into a very intensely powdery variation upon the theme the aldehydes and heliotrope create a dense feeling with a very voluminous translucent silage of flowers and musk..
I love 22 and I always will. July 31, 2013 at 12:27pm
Victoria: I would love to hear your comparison with the current version, Kevin. July 31, 2013 at 2:30pm
perfumekev: OK twist my arm :o) I guess I will have to smell the new one and of corse I would be happy to.
I will stop at the Chanel Boutique when I stop in NYC. It’s only a few miles away from me. so I will go check it out.
best
Kev July 31, 2013 at 2:44pm
Victoria: Great! I can’t wait. 🙂 July 31, 2013 at 2:49pm
Ramon: Why are you implying that the parfum is made with higher quality materials than the eau de toilette? March 16, 2014 at 7:01pm
Natalia P: Victoria I have tried this today for the second time in my skin and Im shocked, in a wonderful way, by how beautiful this fragrance is. I have no words. I also tried 31 rue Cambon which I also loved, specially after an hour. But n22 in my skin left me with a feeling of wonderment, as if the world could be beautiful even in a traffic jam in an awful avenue in Sao Paulo.
I thought of your review today, and the comparison with the pearl, which I had already read. It’s a very accurate observation.
I love your view of the world. Its very inspiring and your blog is a pearl too. Thank you. October 21, 2014 at 8:13pm
Victoria: Thank you for this lovely story, Natalia! I love how a beautiful scent can really make the day better. No 22 is a gem, and I’m happy that you found it. October 22, 2014 at 10:48am
Nati: 27/11 is my birthday, I just simply will go and buy it, and dont look back. I’ll eat eggs on bread for the whole month afterwards, I dont care.
It will be so empowering, a trip on my own skin to places Ive never been and couldnt aford to go…
Chanel les exclusifs, N22 youre mine. Or Im yours. Or whichever way really cos its going to be good. ✨ October 28, 2014 at 10:44pm
Victoria: A perfect birthday gift to yourself! 🙂 October 29, 2014 at 6:27am
Nati: I got a 4mL sample of this! I even kissed the SA. Today Im wearing it for the 3rd time and I came to make a comment here because Im so intrigued… Im roman catholic and I went to the Monastery of Saint Bento a few months ago for a mass and they use A LOT of incense in the whole time and the smell is exactly the same as No22 in my skin!
I wonder if its the sandalwood but it doesnt look like it. It reminds me of frankincense.
A very mystical ride! November 15, 2014 at 2:57pm
Victoria: You’re right about frankincense! No 22 uses it too, and you get this note in the drydown. November 24, 2014 at 1:10pm
Nati: PS: I didnt get it for my bday though Victoria! November 15, 2014 at 3:00pm
Susan Lutz: Here is a tip for layering perfume. Place a little dab of unscented body lotion in the palm of the hand and mix it gently with a spritz of your fragrance. Apply to you whole body as one would apply body lotion (or just to the neck and décolleté and arms if that it too much). Then use your perfum as usual. The fragrance will last all day. And yes, Chanel 22 is divine. March 17, 2016 at 4:16am
Victoria: Yes, such a great way to perfume oneself. March 21, 2016 at 10:42am
Notturno7: Thank you for that tip, Susan!
I never tried that. In the morning I’ll take out my No 22 EDT and try it as you suggested.😊
Victoria, I found your 5 star reviews and am so enjoying your writing and photos you pick. You are a wonderful and gifted writer with a rare sensitivity.💜 April 27, 2016 at 5:29am
Victoria: Thank you very much for these nice words! April 29, 2016 at 6:39am
KatieAnn: Dear Victoria. I am considering purchasing 22 for myself based solely on reviews (mainly yours, as it makes it sound absolutely heavenly). I live in Lexington, Kentucky and there are no places here that have 22 available. I have called several boutiques to find a sample. A couple have taken my address and said they would send it. Alas, nothing has arrived!
I have a couple of questions. I have read that 22 was reformulated since your review. I don’t know all the changes that were made, but apparently there is no longer an incense note? Have you tried a recent version and do you consider it just as nice? Does it still smell like pearls? 🙂
Also, would the parfum create a nice sillage as compared to the EDT. You say it stays closer to the skin. Would people within arms length still be able to smell it?
By the way, I have been reading your blog for several months now. I wanted to tell you how much joy it brings me to read it. Thank you for sharing your beautiful thoughts and experiences with the world. They are a real gift and inspiration.
Many, many thanks! May 16, 2016 at 8:08pm
Victoria: Thank you so much, KatieAnn! Your words mean a lot to me.
Can you try surrendertochance.com for samples? No 22 is not a perfume to buy blindly, so I would urge you to test it on skin first. May 17, 2016 at 1:12pm
KatieAnn: Thank you, Victoria. I have ordered from them several times and have searched for Chanel on their site. I don’t think they carry it, but I have sent an inquiry just to see. I’ll let you know if I have success! May 17, 2016 at 5:13pm
elizabeth: I recently went to the Surrender to Chance site to order some Chanel Les Exclusifs decants, and the brand is no longer listed. I noticed the same thing at The Perfumed Court. I’ve ordered Chanel from both websites in the past. I wonder if Chanel has cracked down on “unauthorized” retailers. Does anyone know if there are other sources for ordering Chanel decants? I called Chanel to see if they’d send small vials, they said no. May 18, 2016 at 9:31am
KatieAnn: Hi Elizabeth. I checked the Perfumed Court as well. The thought also crossed my mind that Chanel is now prohibiting these”unauthorized” vendors from selling their brand. I have called/written Chanel to see if I could get a sample, but they also said no. I have tried Chanel boutiques with some luck. They said they would send a sample, taking my address and name, but nothing has arrived. I believe they followed through but it is a mystery that nothing has come in the mail. It seems the only option for mail order samples would be ebay. On the other hand, Chanel’s return policy is good. I called them and asked a few questions. They said perfume could be returned for a full refund even if it has been opened (as long as it has not been used more than what is required for testing on skin). This is not something I would like to do….how sad. I would also recommend confirming this before placing an order (assuming you’re uncertain about what you are getting). May 18, 2016 at 10:08am
KatieAnn: I received a response from Surrender to Chance. Chanel Corporate office did indeed request that they stop selling their fragrances as samples and decants. This seems to be true of all decanters. May 18, 2016 at 12:20pm