Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Rose is one of my favorite notes, however it is difficult to encounter a rose focused fragrance that can still pique my interest. A combination of rose and patchouli is a successful marriage, which first was explored in depth by L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses. Une Folie de Rose was released by Les Parfums de Rosine in 2005. Unlike a much more avant-garde Voleur de Roses, Une Folie de Rose is a classically composed rose chypre, featuring notes of coriander, bergamot, tea rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, vetiver, and patchouli.
The impression upon inhaling the top notes is similar to smelling a tea rose on a hot summer afternoon. The hot and dizzying radiance of the sun and the transparent sweetness of silky petals combine to create a multifaceted sensory wave. Radiant rose is clouded by lemony spiciness of coriander, with sparks of bergamot contributing to the effect.
Intense floral heart, weaving in sweetness of rose and opulent sharpness of ylang-ylang sends forth a shower of red and white petals. Once the petals settle, an earthy darkness of patchouli rises up, layering the flowers with the currents of golden shimmer and earthy richness. A gentle sweetness of amber is like a scattering of cinders glowing softly in the dark. A base resting on a cold powdery sweetness of oakmoss sets a stage for an interplay of sensations that makes chypre genre so fascinating. The outcome is an elegant and interesting rose fragrance, steering clear both of the sentimentality associated with rose and of the aloof austerity attributed to chypre. While Voleur de Roses is a more innovative take on rose, Une Folie de Rose might be a more wearable option for those who found patchouli in L’Artisan to be too dark and earthy.
Available at Aedes, First-in-Fragrance, and Barneys New York.
Picture: Advertisement by René Gruau from www.renegruau.com.
15 Comments
Lost in Jersey: Hi V- I bought Une Folie when it first came out – unsniffed and no, I am not blaming you 🙂 I found it overbearing for the summer and have been waiting for Fall to try again hoping the ‘weightiness’ of it might be more suited for cooler weather. I do not think it is a typical rose nor even a typical Rosine which is why I am still intrigued. Lovely review as always! August 31, 2005 at 3:25am
Sisonne: Dear V, I find most rose fragrances get too overwhelming on my skin & have an amazing lasting power. When wearing them I feel like being a rose myself 😉 To my surprise I don´t have this problem with L´Artisan Voleur de Roses, it gets rather soft on my skin & the patchouli gets really smooth, so it´s much more wearable for me than other rose scents. August 31, 2005 at 7:40am
Robin: I love Une Folie, and F, I think you are going to love it too once the weather is cooler. And hey, stop buying unsniffed, LOL!!! August 31, 2005 at 10:17am
mreenymo: Hello, my darling!!
Une Folie is a great fragrance for Fall, as so many other boisdejasmin friends have indicated above. What it smells like, at least on me, is roses over a caramel-like base, with a dash of warmth from the amber. Do you get the same impression?
Much love and hugs! August 31, 2005 at 12:52pm
Laura: I generally like Rosines but I didn’t like this one and I have no idea why. I did a drive-by sniff, so no memories :D. I’m going to be a Big Girl and not retry it because I’ve already got 58 perfs on my fall buy list. And it’s all your fault. And NST’s. August 31, 2005 at 11:22am
BoisdeJasmin: F, I definitely would set it aside for the cooler times of the year. It is such a beautifully composed rose, with nothing about it being too much or too little. Very elegant–it would suit you wonderfully. August 31, 2005 at 12:25pm
BoisdeJasmin: At first, I could not wear Voleur de Roses, because I found patchouli to be overwhelming. However, upon revisiting it one day, I was struck by how beautifully blended fragrance it is. There is a touch of plum, touch of rose, gilded patchouli base. It is on my fall fragrance list. August 31, 2005 at 12:27pm
BoisdeJasmin: R, I remember you mentioning how beautiful it was, and you were right. I will console myself with it, now that my Borneo sample is nearing its end… August 31, 2005 at 12:40pm
BoisdeJasmin: L, I have a sample here, and whenever you drop by, you are welcome to it. I have not been able to resist the rose and patchouli combination. August 31, 2005 at 12:43pm
BoisdeJasmin: Dear R, what a pleasure to see you again! I know that you have been very busy, but I missed you.
In fact, last night as I was writing about this fragrance, I was thinking about a caramelized flower element that is present in the base (once amber begins to appear). It is delicate but wonderful. I asked P. whether there is a whiskey that includes a floral tone, and he said that he is not aware of it. On the other hand, he named several with caramel undertones. Fascinating! August 31, 2005 at 12:58pm
Diane: Dear V! Lovely review, as always, and I quite agree–if Voleur de Roses was a bit too much but much admired for its uniqueness, Une Folie should be given a whirl (and a drive-by sniff will not do, dearest L ;)). August 31, 2005 at 2:26pm
BoisdeJasmin: Thank you, dear D! I cannot agree more–it should be given a proper test. 🙂 August 31, 2005 at 2:30pm
Lizsmellslikeleaves: I’ve found this fragrance very difficult to review, so I’m glad you did! For some reason, it reminds me of a French farmhouse kitchen on a sunny autumn day. I’m not sure why I have this image whenever I wear Une Folie de Rose, but I do. Although the first hour is terrible on my skin, the drydown is so stunningly beautiful that I fall in love every time I try it. I think it may be my favorite Rosine, although I love so many of them. August 31, 2005 at 8:21pm
Lizsmellslikeleaves: Oh by the way, your comment on Une Folie de Rose vs Voleur de Roses was perfect–indeed, the patchouli in L’artisan’s Voleur was far too strong for me…but the patchouli in Folie is perfect. Another dark rose which I love and can wear, unlike Voleur, is FM Une Rose. August 31, 2005 at 8:23pm
BoisdeJasmin: Liz, the top notes are not particularly appealing to me, because I find them very heady, however the drydown is perfection. Voleur de Roses is very strong on patchouli, that dry, stinging quality that makes patchouli a love or hate for many. I could not approach it at first. Even though, now I really like it, Une Folie de Rose is a more elegant and wearable choice. It is also one of my favourite Rosines (I would go as far as to say that it is a favourite at the moment), which is a high compliment, given that I like so many of them. August 31, 2005 at 8:33pm