Francois Robert: 6 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

In Arabic, one can wish someone a morning of roses, “sabah al ward.” Whenever I hear the words “Clair Matin,” I think of this beautiful expression. The idea behind the newest limited edition fragrance from Les Parfums de Rosine was indeed to capture the delicate scent of pink roses as they unfold in the morning. Yet, the question that remained for me as I wore Clair Matin was whether it truly evoked a rose scented dawn for me.

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Focus on rose in a fragrance designated for men seems like a radical offering, yet as my recent interview with sociologist Marcello Aspria revealed, there is nothing quintessentially feminine about rose, other than the meaning afforded to it in a given social context. In the Middle East, rose based fragrances are very popular among men, where rose plays an important role in the religious symbolism.

For the newest offering from Les Parfums de Rosine, François Robert created a rose that is devoid of sunny sweetness and honeyed richness. Instead, the rose in Rose d’Homme is accented by the lemony coriander in the top notes and the earthiness of vetiver in the base. It is a rose that vacillates between waxy petal and woody stem, settling only in the heart, where the floral accord lightens and turns sweeter.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Rose is one of my favorite notes, however it is difficult to encounter a rose focused fragrance that can still pique my interest.  A combination of rose and patchouli is a successful marriage, which first was explored in depth by L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses.  Une Folie de Rose was released by Les Parfums de Rosine in 2005. Unlike a much more avant-garde Voleur de Roses, Une Folie de Rose is a classically composed rose chypre, featuring notes of coriander, bergamot, tea rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, vetiver, and patchouli.

The impression upon inhaling the top notes is similar to smelling a tea rose on a hot summer afternoon. The hot and dizzying radiance of the sun and the transparent sweetness of silky petals combine to create a multifaceted sensory wave. Radiant rose is clouded by lemony spiciness of coriander, with sparks of bergamot contributing to the effect.

Intense floral heart, weaving in sweetness of rose and opulent sharpness of ylang-ylang sends forth a shower of red and white petals.  Once the petals settle, an earthy darkness of patchouli rises up, layering the flowers with the currents of golden shimmer and earthy richness. A gentle sweetness of amber is like a scattering of cinders glowing softly in the dark.  A base resting on a cold powdery sweetness of oakmoss sets a stage for an interplay of sensations that makes chypre genre so fascinating.  The outcome is an elegant and interesting rose fragrance, steering clear both of the sentimentality associated with rose and of the aloof austerity attributed to chypre.  While Voleur de Roses is a more innovative take on rose, Une Folie de Rose might be a more wearable option for those who found patchouli in L’Artisan to be too dark and earthy.

Available at Aedes, First-in-Fragrance, and Barneys New York.

Picture: Advertisement by René Gruau from www.renegruau.com.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

The best summer fragrances manage to be refreshing as well as complex. When Marie-Hélène Rogeon’s line introduced Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zest de Rose in 2002, I immediately fell in love with its scent of white rose petals folded into lemon sorbet. Indeed, the top notes are very interesting reminding me of unopened rose buds due to the crisp and green accords of bergamot tempering the sweetness of roses.

The heart loses some of the citrusy effervescence, however it is still a gorgeous creamy white rose fragrance that remains fresh and sparkling. A touch of jasmine adds a dusky opulent note, whereas vetiver prevents the fragrance from being one-dimensional. The dry down of rose on the base of subtle sandalwood and vetiver touched by amber balanced subtle warmth and icy sting, not unlike caipirinha, a Brazilian drink made with ice, vodka, sugar and lime. Although the lasting power is average, Un Zest de Rose is such a perfect choice for the summer that I do not mind refreshing it.

Available at Aedes and First-in-Fragrance.

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

Rose soufflé with fruit salad, Parfums de Rosine Rose D’Été is a rose fragrance for those who think that rose is sentimental and hopelessly romantic. Rose D’Été is anything but sentimental. It is effervescent and vivid, in its explosion of melon and apple against the backdrop of yellow rose and honeyed flowers accord. It is exuberant, and almost too much so, veering into syrupy and cloying. The resulting outcome is a disconcerting vacillation between roses heated by the sun and a rose jam. While the latter is delicious, after a couple of bites the feeling of overindulgence sets in. The same takes place with Rose D’Été—while I enjoy the rose soufflé accords at first, an hour later they begin to irritate me with their sugariness.

Notes: apple, galbanum, bergamot; yellow rose, linden blossom, mimosa, lotus blossom; ambrette seed, musk.