I’ve always been drawn to narcissus, a spring blossom with an autumnal soul. The narcissus poeticus typically used in perfumery is a delicate blossom of gauzy white petals surrounding a small orange crown in the center. At first sniff, it evokes whiteness, purity, and a touch of pale honey, but if you press it to your face, not caring about it leaving a blush of pollen on your cheeks, you will notice darker, deeper, heavier notes. Some people smell suede in it, others–antique books. I notice a hint of mulch and barnyard.
This complexity becomes even more evident when narcissus is distilled into an absolute. The flurry of white petals gives way to a humid warmth reminiscent of tuberose or gardenia and then transforms into the darkness of leather and tobacco leaves. Narcissus absolute is an expensive material, and using it requires skill to bring out all of its different facets in a composition, but when it works, the results are spellbinding.
And so I decided to put together a list of my favorite narcissus fragrances, from classics to modern blends. I didn’t realize that it would run into 20 perfumes! I’m sure you have your own choices, so I would love to hear what you enjoy.
Is there a difference between narcissus and daffodil? Any member of the plant genus Narcissus (Family Amaryllidaceae) can be called a daffodil. Often, daffodil is the name used to describe hybrids with larger trumpets, the kind you see at the florists. In perfumery, there are two types of narcissus used: Narcissus poeticus is used for narcissus absolute, and Narcissus jonquilla is distilled into jonquille absolute. Two materials have different odors, but in a perfume composition, they lend a similar lush floral and green leather effect.
Guerlain Vol de Nuit
An icon. A dark swirl of narcissus shimmers against woods and moss.
Hermèss Eau de Narcisse Bleu
Green and vibrant, this elegant composition can be called the ultimate narcissus cologne.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Mont de Narcisse
An exploration of narcissus absolute in a woody-leathery context. The green notes offset the dark elements nicely.
Caron Narcisse Noir
A narcissus dressed up as Louise Brooks, all smoke and velvet.
Caron Narcisse Blanc
A bright white-floral version of Narcisse Noir. The shadows are replaced by the glitter of aldehydes and citrus. The drydown retains a dark murmur.
Yardley Narcissus
A green floral with a humid white floral accent. Simple and pretty.
Chloé Chloé Narcisse
Heavy, rich, sweet. The narcissus appears here as such a sumptuous white floral that it feels almost tropical. The overall effect is of the glitz and glamour of the 1980s.
Hermès Amazone
Hermès attempts a fruity-floral and adds moss. Narcissus is a subtle floral accent, but it balances out the fruity sweetness nicely.
Lancôme Climat
Green petals floating in a glass of champagne. Sadly, the reformulation is the equivalent of a cheap sparkling wine. If you can find the original, or at least, an older version, you’re in for a treat.
Masque Milano Romanza
An elegantly executed green floral composition with a dark layer of myrrh and woods.
Chanel No 19 EDT, EDP, parfum
Narcissus is more obvious in the parfum, where it dances a waltz with iris, but No 19 is worth smelling in any formulation. Another iconic fragrance.
Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad
An interplay of osmanthus, jasmine, tuberose, and amber may seem to leave little room for the narcissus to shine, but it does–right in the heart of the composition. Look for a moody leathery note that offsets the richness of tuberose.
Parfum d’Empire Tabac Tabou
The leather facet of narcissus marries perfectly with the tobacco accord in this fragrance, although I admit that narcissus can be hard to find. Still, an enjoyable composition for men and women like.
Diptyque Olène
Narcissus reveals its sumptuous white floral side in this plush floral composition.
Penhaligon’s The Revenge Of Lady Blanche
A dark spicy floral that nevertheless retains a radiant quality. Narcissus is an accent in the hyacinth-green floral accord.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire Pour Femme
Warm and smoldering, this composition is a trio of rose, narcissus, and patchouli. While there are other notes, this trio sets its character.
Jacomo Silences
Pure elegance in the shades of emerald and topaz. Narcissus flashes its delicate white petals and reveals its dark green nuances. A masterpiece.
Papillon Dryad
The perfumer Liz Moores weaves moss, salty vetiver, and green, balsamic notes with narcissus to evoke a walk in the forest. Dryad’s woodland is autumnal, filled with fallen crimson leaves and chestnut shells, but the whisper of narcissus is a reminder of blossoms, sunshine, and spring.
Histoires de Parfums 1926 Turandot Puccini Absolu
A clever pairing of orange blossom and narcissus in the top notes is fleetingly reminiscent of Caron’s Narcisse Noir, but the rest of the story is warmer, sweeter, and more flamboyant.
The Different Company Bois d’Iris
Cool and refined. An etude of driftwood on a beach at dusk. Iris and narcissus complement each other’s non-floral characters and add a wistful character to this polished composition.
What are your favorite narcissus fragrances? Do you have any favorites from this list?
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
48 Comments
Damiana: So many wonderful fragrances starring narcissus. Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Chanel No. 19, Masque Milano Romanza, and Papillon Dryad are all gorgeous and original. I am adding DSH Paper White as another favorite. January 24, 2022 at 9:29am
Victoria: I agree, they are original. Narcissus demands attention and care, I find. January 24, 2022 at 10:48am
Sebastian: I’d so much like to try Paper White, but it seems impossible to find in Europe. Can you say more about it? January 25, 2022 at 6:19pm
Damiana: I believe they ship to other countries, so you can call always reach out to her and ask. Paper White is crisp and luminous, a beautiful modern chypre. It juxtaposes the green facets of the narcissus notes with richer nuances of orris and sandalwood. Highly recommended! January 25, 2022 at 11:12pm
Valentyna: Funnily enough I never thought much of narcissus until I moved to the UK. Until then I never even bothered smelling it after my early childhood experience with it.. I remember it smelling sharp, unpleasant and with some urinal vibes to it. But here in the UK when I suddenly found myself leaning over every blooming bush and every flower I came across, I decided to give this flower a second chance. I was confused as most of them did not smell at all. Some of them smelt somewhat woody and wet. And just one I met last year had a divine aroma, I found it at the river bank and in disbelief I kept smelling it over and over again. Since then I changed my mind about narcissus flower. I can smell it in no 19 extrait, it’s gorgeous there, just like that one by the river. The one from Dryad is more pronounced and I feel a little cautious about it. I am just warming up to this note. I’ve also got a small decant of Penhaligons Ostara, it’s a wonderful scent too. I am kicking myself for missing out on the great deal Lessenteurs had last summer: big discount on Caron Black Narcissus extrait in its gorgeous little bottle, exactly the same as it was when it first came out a century ago!
Would be so interesting to read your views on other papillon perfumery scents! Salome for example and Angelique. January 24, 2022 at 9:40am
Victoria: I wrote short reviews of Papillon Perfumery’s fragrances, but I realized that I don’t have separate reviews. They are definitely worth discovering and testing carefully.
And Ostara is one of my favorites. January 24, 2022 at 10:49am
Iuliana: I was about to ask bout it – did you leave it out because it is discontinued 🙂? January 24, 2022 at 3:59pm
Victoria: Yes, it’s discontinued and pretty much impossible to find. January 25, 2022 at 2:38am
Iuliana: For those in the UK, there are a couple of bottles available on eBay and I managed to find a new one on Vinted too. Completely off-topic, but if I could only get my hands on a bottle of Amaranthine too… January 25, 2022 at 3:32am
Charlotte: There was recently a sale on Ostara at TK Maxx in the UK; both 100ml and 50ml bottles for a very good rate! I vacillated for ages over buying a second backup bottle as it’s one of my favourites too, and they now seem to have sold out!
Victoria if you’d like, I can send you a sample as I’ve got a few 1.5mls as well!
I’m also a big fan of Mont de Narcisse, and narcissus generally! Where I grew up on the West Coast of Canada there were entire fields full of bright-yellow daffodils; not as strongly perfumed as the smaller narcissus but still beautiful and very cheerful 🙂
There are many on this list that I would like to try, especially the Carons. January 26, 2022 at 1:41pm
Sisily Alexander: Bridal Crown is my favourite Narcissisi and I have in my garden every Spring.
Also, I have loved Jolie Madame since I was a young girl but very strong! January 26, 2022 at 7:33pm
Donna: What fun it would be to smell these all! Only familiar with Chanel 19..
I’ve been working on a narcissus accord for several years, using my enfleurage extrait. Very tricky work not to bury the delicacy of the extrait, yet give it support and tenacity.
But this autumn I did make a perfume with the enfleurage pommade, including jasmine sambac, spruce & violet, and other unlikely partners … it’s mesmerizing. January 24, 2022 at 10:03am
Carolyn Middleton: The very much missed Ostara! January 24, 2022 at 10:45am
Victoria: I know! January 24, 2022 at 10:50am
Emily: Embarrassed by how many of these I haven’t smelled yet but the ones I do know I adore, so should probably explore the note more deliberately.
I’ve gushed about it in these pages before but Prosody London’s Jacinth Jonquil has the lushest narcissus opening. A spring dream. January 24, 2022 at 10:47am
Victoria: I’m taking note of Prosody London. It sounds so nice. January 24, 2022 at 10:51am
Alityke: I own No19, Dryad, Chloe Narcisse & Silences. I was once gifted a bottle of vintage Narcisse Noir but the top notes had turned & I couldn’t get past that off opening. The older narcissus perfumes lean more complex to me where as more modern ones seem more legible. More akin to breathing in the amazingly dirty indolic of paperwhites in full bloom.
Interestingly I purchased a recent bottle of Penhaligon’s Bluebell, which I’ve known since the 70’s has lost its crisp, clean green hyacinth note & is now a much more dirty green narcissus note January 24, 2022 at 11:03am
Victoria: That’s interesting about Bluebell. I also heard that it’s now much greener and woodier than before. January 24, 2022 at 11:06am
Alityke: Certainly still green and yes woody but it’s lost that distinct hyacinth that it shared with Cristalle EdT. As I say it has gained a far dirtier aspect & now smells more narcissus wood rather than a bluebell wood January 24, 2022 at 2:50pm
Tara C: I love Romanza, Tabac Tabou and Olène. To your wonderful list I would like to add Annette Neuffer Narcissus Poeticus and Narcissus Orientalis. Also, a blend with narcissus is the lovely 4160 Tuesdays Both Sides of Clouds. January 24, 2022 at 11:08am
Tami: Olene is beautiful!
I used to adore wearing Chloe Narcisse until I worked with someone who absolutely drowned herself in it—and one day I landed a nasty and nauseating migraine. That is not a perfume that requires a heavy hand! I do still have a small and pretty bottle of the perfume, which came with my cologne. Beautiful bottle. January 24, 2022 at 11:25am
Aida: Dearest Victoria
I was under the impression that Jacamo’s Silences was discontinued. Is it so just in the States? How can one access this delightful scent in the States?
Much love as always
Aida January 24, 2022 at 12:06pm
Victoria: It’s still available:
https://www.jacomo.fr/silences-eau-de-parfum-sublime-100ml
But it’s possible that you can’t find it easily in the US anymore. January 24, 2022 at 12:44pm
Alityke: Try eBay or resale sites. Also the grey discounters. Good luck with your search January 24, 2022 at 2:52pm
Fazal: I think Jacomo re-released it but Silences is still available in vintage formula at affordable prices on evilbay. January 24, 2022 at 3:28pm
Irina: Thank you, Victoria. Chloe recently released Narcissus Poeticus, but unfortunately I haven’t smelled it yet. Has anyone smelled it? January 24, 2022 at 12:09pm
Dina C.: I love the narcissus note in several scents. By far my favorite would have to be Chanel No 19 in any of its formulations. I also love Silences, Olene, and Vol de Nuit. Not mentioned, but also containing narcissus: Ralph Lauren Safari is a beautiful green floral, and Gucci No. 3 parfum, an old school favorite. Others in my collection with less prominent narcissus: Parure, Laura Ashley No. 1, Grey Flannel, Jolie Madame, Miss Balmain, Eris Green Spell. January 24, 2022 at 12:15pm
Maya: What a wonderful list! I am-and have been since childhood- narcissus obsessed. Every winter I grow them in pots in my NYC apartment and enjoy the scent differences in the various varieties (usually Ziva but sometimes other).This year I made a serendipitous discovery. Korres Jasmine scented hand cream is to me a photorealistic rendering of the narcissus scent. There is rampant scent plagiarism amongst white blossoms so a jasmine scented cream that actually smells like narcissus is not surprising to me. So for those of you who adore this flower’s scent as much as I do- there’s the Korres cream. Victoria, on a different note- hope you are doing well and not overwhelmed by the situation facing Ukraine. It’s very scary and I hope that it resolves peacefully. January 24, 2022 at 12:24pm
Cornelia Blimber: Vol de Nuit was my ”signature scent”a long time ago. The current version has lost its spell for me, although I own it (not really current, from about 15 years ago).
I don’t discover the narcissus in No 19 (I know the edt only), and Silences is to my nose a big hyacinth. Will try it again, I own a bottle.
I like the picture of the white flowers in a fresh green field!
I don’t know the other perfumes you mentioned, but I am sure that no perfume could take the place of Vol de Nuit. January 24, 2022 at 12:44pm
Kimberly: I just finished up a decant of Vol de Nuit EDT and bought the extract. It is so alluring and mysterious. The first time I sprayed Vol De Nuit I thought I wasn’t going to like it. I tried it a couple months later and I instantly loved it. Weird. I would love to try Mont de Narcisse after I pare down my perfume collection a little. I went a bit overboard in 2021 🙂 January 24, 2022 at 2:13pm
Qwendy: Bruno Acampora’s Prima T is a big dark funky Narcissus, which I discovered when I was tiring of the more sparkling green renditions of it. January 24, 2022 at 2:13pm
carole macleod: I love the Hermes Narcisse Bleu, and of course Caron’s scent. My favourite is Je Reviens parfum, which my mom wore. That’s my favourite scent memory of narcissus 🙂 Wish I could have tried the Ostara.
I always enjoy reading everyone’s comments. This blog is amazing to me 🙂 January 24, 2022 at 3:18pm
Deborah Stirling: Is there an equivalent to Chloe Narcisse?, my all time favourite which is now discontinued. May 2, 2023 at 9:28pm
Fazal: I was expecting to find Chloe Narcisse in your list and, lo and behold, it’s there. As you indicate, it is, indeed, big and bold. January 24, 2022 at 3:26pm
Aline: Has anyone tried the Silences recently? How does it compare to older formulas? January 24, 2022 at 4:32pm
Old Herbaceous: What a wonderful list! Like others here, my mind went immediately to the late, great Ostara, which to my nose smells exactly like daffodils. I have several of the ones on your list and I love them all. January 24, 2022 at 6:01pm
Andy: This is a list of such interesting perfumes, many of which I haven’t yet smelled. One of my favorite perfumes with narcissus is Le Temps d’une Fete, though I don’t know what shape the perfume is in today or even if it’s still made. My bottle smells wonderful though, and it’s one of those rare perfumes that has it all—richness, radiance, good sillage, longevity, and both classical and modern aspects all in harmony. January 24, 2022 at 6:24pm
Tourmaline: Dear Victoria,
Thank you for this delightful post.
I regret to say that I have smelled only four of the perfumes on your list; boy, do I have a lot of homework!
I have Vol de Nuit and Yardley Narcissus, and I have smelled testers of Chloé Narcisse and Silences (the latter back in the eighties).
I adore the name “The Revenge Of Lady Blanche”. I must try that one.
I well remember buying an aunt a bunch of narcissus blooms a few years ago; it smelled heavenly!
By the way, I hope that all remains well in Ukraine, and that the Russians sod off.
With kind regards,
Tourmaline January 25, 2022 at 12:12am
Nikos: I was really looking forward to this one as I love narcissus. Thank you Victoria! Luckily I have smelled most of the listed fragrances and have or had a couple of them. Romanza is the best narcissus I have though to my nose I find the myrrh/woods base more silvery cool than dark-but maybe we have different concept of dark.
Hermes Eau de narcisse blue is beautiful and I find similarities to Grey flannel.
Vol de nuit and no19 are as you describe them (though I bet too watered down in the current reformulations I own, especially the first).
I also smell an astringent green narcissus in Amouage Myths woman, a perfume in the same vein as no19.
From all the above and having in mind I own current formulations I would say Romanza is by far the best mostly because it has stripped the leathery aspects of narcissus (not a fan of leather) although I get a hint orange blossom (also not a fan) but subtle enough as not bother me.
Greetings from a snow covered Athens. January 25, 2022 at 2:36am
Ewan: As an aside the Daffodil is the national flower of Wales January 25, 2022 at 9:54am
Sebastian: I love Dryad and Tabac Tabou. Two perfumes that no one have mentioned, and that I both admire, are Bruno Fazzolari’s Au delá narcisse, and Miguel Matous’ Club Majestic. I particularly love the latter: a very powerful narcisse chypre with very prominent narcissus, sparkling green notes, much depth, just the right dosage of animalics, and old-fashioned oak moss (I believe it’s non-IFRA compliant, or at least the first batch was). Quite an experience. January 25, 2022 at 6:25pm
Hilde: Hello Victoria,
I really am surpirsed that narcissus is been used in so many perfumes. But now I have been made very curious to explore the way how this flower is been used in different ways, because when I think of narcissus I immediately think of a note that is not obvious to use in perfumes. For me it smells green, but also a bit stale, but not in a negative scence. It also reminds me of dandelion, another yellow spring flower.
About a year ago I read your review about Panhaligon’s Ostara, and I was able to find a bottle online that I bought – and I must ashamingly admit – without trying. I wouldn’t wait, because it was the last bottle left. But oh, am I glad I did. I do agree with you that it is an extremely beautiful fragrance: green, herbal, sunny, just like freshly cut hay.
I didn’t know that narcissus is been used in Chanel No 19, Jacomo Silences and Lancôme Climat. They are among my most favourite perfumes. So I am eager to try the other fragrances that you have mentioned, Victoria. And I can’t wait to smell the outcoming flowers in april. January 26, 2022 at 6:55am
Silke: Narcissus is also an ingredient of ‘Miss Dior Original’. It fits quite well in the’fuzzy green’ of this perfume. January 26, 2022 at 9:37am
Hilde: Hi Silke, Miss Dior original is again one amoung my favourite classic chypres January 26, 2022 at 12:46pm
Silke: Yes, I like it, too! And also Chanel No 19 – there seems to be something about Narcissus 😉 January 26, 2022 at 1:09pm
Anne: Le Temps d’une Fête by Patricia Nicolai; I have an old bottle, and when I heard it might be discontinued I got a backup new bottle. To me, the older version feels heavier, richer, more narcissus-y, with more hay and barnyard than the new, but I love it in any version.
This post says you can still get it: https://boisdejasmin.com/2011/04/parfums-de-nicolai-le-temps-dune-fete-perfume-review.html January 27, 2022 at 2:58pm
rickyrebarco: This is a great list of wonderful fragrances. Jacomo Silences is a favorite of mine, along with Chanel No. 19. I want to try some of the others as well. January 28, 2022 at 12:37am
Dragica: Chanel no 19 and Vol de nuit are wonderful. But the latest reformulation (2019) of VDN Eau de toilette sadly lists no oakmoss.
Mont de narcisse, eau de narcisse bleu and Dryad are the ones I would like to try. January 29, 2022 at 3:47pm