I’ve been wearing Tocca Colette for the past year without realizing that it is now one of my staples. Whenever I have one of those “I don’t know what to pick” moments, which everyone with more than one item of anything–perfume, outfits, shoes, books, etc.–has, Colette is one of the fragrances that invariably feels just right. It’s elegant and polished, with a tender and warm demeanor.
Despite my mixed opinions on Tocca perfumes, Colette was love at first inhale. It’s a transparent amber fragrance, with bright, shimmery mosaics of lemon, pepper, and juniper berries. It opens on a fizzy note–as if you’ve taken a sip of gin and tonic much too greedily–before mellowing down to a comfortable softness. Colette is easy to like, but it’s far from predictable.
The fragrance was inspired by the French novelist Sidonie-Gabrielle Colette and created by Irina Burlakova, a young Latvian born perfumer who works for Givaudan. My own impression of the novelist is scented with gardenia and patchouli, but Colette wrote so much about scents that everyone can have their own interpretation. Either way, Burlakova’s Colette is not what I expected, but that’s a good thing in my book.
Colette is a simple perfume, but I love the way burnished amber is lit up by the spicy and citrusy notes and later cradled by creamy musk. The amber is the dry, crisp kind found in Paco Rabanne Black XS, and a generous dose of cedarwood paired with a twist of plummy violet makes me think of Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits.
I find Colette cozy and tender because it reminds me of how my cashmere sweaters smell when I take them out of their winter storage in cedarwood chests–a mixture of pencil shavings and warm wool. The perfume has excellent tenacity and sillage, but it’s radiant without being loud. It also smells more expensive than you might expect by looking at its price tag, but didn’t Colette herself say that “no temptation can ever be measured by the value of its object”?
Tocca Colette includes notes of bergamot, mandarin, lemon, juniper, pink peppercorn, jasmine, violet, cyclamen, pine needles, incense, musk, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, and cedarwood. Available at Sephora, 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray/$68.00
If you’re a fan of Colette, there is another fragrance inspired by her, Histoires de Parfums 1873 Colette (and here is Robin’s review).
76 Comments
Martha: I will have to try this line again (specifically, Colette). When I first sampled some of the fragrances, I wasn’t impressed. Nor was I repulsed. Essentially, the Tocca line left me rather flat so I never returned for more sampling. April 10, 2013 at 7:38am
Victoria: Colette is the only fragrance I was tempted to buy from Tocca. The rest either didn’t work at all for me or were completely unexciting. Colette, on the other hand, is a stand out. April 10, 2013 at 8:18am
Connie: I always ignored the line because there are just so many of them and because I didn’t expect sampling them would give me a high happiness to effort payoff. Maybe this will be the next sample I ask for from Sephora. April 10, 2013 at 7:51am
Victoria: It was one of the samples I got from Sephora a couple of years ago, so it was an unexpected discovery. I haven’t had much luck with other Tocca fragrances, but this one is a keeper. April 10, 2013 at 8:28am
Bela: Colette was my constant companion when I was a teenager. That lush prose was intoxicating. I *must* go in search of this perfume – as soon as I’ve met my deadline… *goes back to work* April 10, 2013 at 8:44am
Victoria: One of my friends gave me a compilation of Colette’s essays titled “Flowers and Fruit.” “If a bee had three wings, it would be a snowdrops… Does Paris even know that at noon the snowdrop, when free and thriving, exhales the breath of orange blossoms?” she writes. I read bits of it, savoring like a special treat.
Good luck with your work! April 10, 2013 at 9:13am
Susan: I love Flower and Fruit. My favourite essay is Red Camellia. What a sensualist Colette was! April 10, 2013 at 10:34am
Victoria: She really was! I keep this book in my desk all the time, and when you mentioned the essay, I looked it up right away. Gorgeous, lush, and as Bela put so well, intoxicating. April 10, 2013 at 1:01pm
Elizabeth: I love gin and tonics! They’re my favorite drink, especially in summer. I must admit that I didn’t expect anything so nice from Tocca, but now I would like to try Colette. (While I am still DYING for Caligna to make an appearance on American shores……it’s taking so long!) April 10, 2013 at 8:50am
Victoria: It’s a simple fragrance, but it’s really well-done and has its charms. I love its vibrant start, but the drydown is my favorite part. April 10, 2013 at 9:15am
Zazie: I am not familiar with Tocca, but I love Colette’s prose…
As a perfume inspiration, I like to believe the story by which she wore Jicky, the Guerlain fragrance that I first fell in love with and embraced. Though her Jicky was different than what is sold today…
I don’t know if the name of an artist of renommé on a perfume bottle is a big selling point…at least for me. Honestly I don’t like it, and I don’t know exactly way. Maybe I feel that the company is appropriating something which belongs to nobody and everybody at the same time! Of course this doesn’t mean I wouldn’t try the corresponding fragrances, if the occasion presents itself! 😉 April 10, 2013 at 9:43am
Victoria: I do know what you mean! The commercialization of it rubs me the wrong way too, but at the same time, I like the idea of a perfumer getting such a brief and thinking of Colette (or another writer, work of art or a special place) and trying to capture it somehow. So, in this case, Tocca’s Colette doesn’t smell like “my” Colette, but I like it for its simplicity and easy to like, easy to approach elegance. April 10, 2013 at 12:59pm
sara: i love tocca candles, especially cleopatra and florence. haven’t tried their perfumes yet. April 10, 2013 at 10:08am
Victoria: I love Tocca candles too, although I haven’t burned them in a long time. I feel that with so many new perfumes, my nose is working overtime, and I don’t use candles that often. April 10, 2013 at 1:00pm
Carri: Victoria, I am curious what products, if any, you do use for home scents? I find the vast majority of them rather sickening. I liked some of the Nicolai diffuser oil scents but they are so hard to find. April 10, 2013 at 5:48pm
Victoria: To be honest, I don’t use many home scents. In the past, I liked candles by L’Artisan, Annick Goutal, L’Occitane and some others, but these days scented candles or diffusers don’t tempt me. To get rid of cooking smells, we use a small air purifier, and it works really well.
On the other hand, if you like diffusers, Linari makes good quality ones. I also like L’Occitane candles for their range of interesting scents and reasonable prices. April 10, 2013 at 6:09pm
Mel: Hi, V. I would love to read more of your thoughts about home fragrances. One finds oneself making the deduction that the more expensive the candle or diffuser, the better. I have been very disappointed w/ expensive candles but the canned chemistry of cheap candles are even more of a letdown. There must be a middle way! April 11, 2013 at 12:15am
Victoria: The cheaply made candles scented with vanillin and fake almond are my least favorite! And the scent is so strong and pervasive.
I do love incense though. It may not be a typical home scent, but the smell of frankincense is incredible. Especially when you burn just a little bit. April 11, 2013 at 4:47am
Carri: Thank you Victoria and Mel for your thoughts. I agree about the let downs associated with candles. I would love to find out where high end candle makers buy their fragrances and try to make my own. Some expensive candles (like Diptyque) are OK but I am a poor student and can’t afford to spend 65.00 on a candle. The cheap ones inevitably give me headaches so I have to conclude that there is a different in fragrance quality. April 11, 2013 at 4:50pm
Victoria: The high-end manufacturers employ perfumers who create scents for them specifically. So, unfortunately, there is no way to buy them in pure form. I agree that the better the quality, the more interesting the scent, but then the prices increase too.
I do like L’Occitane candles, which are reasonably priced. April 12, 2013 at 5:39am
Carri: When I said “diffuser,” I sort of misspoke. What I meant was an oil burner like a Lampe Berger. Nicolai used to make scents for those and some of them were incredible! April 11, 2013 at 4:52pm
Victoria: I haven’t tried them, but they sound wonderful. Parfums de Nicolai is impressive as far as its quality goes. Have you checked Beautyhabit if they carry the burners. April 12, 2013 at 5:41am
Ann: Cleopatra and Florence are the two Tocca fragrances I wear as well… I’ll try to remember to give Colette another sniff! April 10, 2013 at 4:22pm
Victoria: If you get a chance to try it, please let me know what you think. April 10, 2013 at 5:36pm
OperaFan: The Tocca bottles are so pretty. I remember when I was first introduced to their fragrance line in the mid’90s – an SA at Saks NYC was promoting Touch, and I bought the little bottle of fabric wash for $20. It wasn’t something I would wear, but it made my clothes smell absolutely lovely! I need to go back and try the line. Tocca prices are among the best as far as niche perfumery goes. April 10, 2013 at 10:52am
Victoria: I remember Touch too! I got a small sample at one point, and I eked the last drop out of it, because it was too expensive (or rather, non-essential) for my absolutely meager student budget. I did love the scent.
My only problem with Tocca fragrances is that a few really smell like something I would enjoy in a candle form, but not as a fine fragrance. Happily, Colette is an exception to this. April 10, 2013 at 1:03pm
maggiecat: I alos love Tocca’s Colette, and you’ve put its appeal perfectly: it’s the ideal perfume to wear when you want something lovely but don’t want to make a decision. It’s also a good office/movies/symphonuy scent in that there is little in it that a bystander could find offensive – yet it’s not bland at all. And the Histories de parfum version of Tocca’s literary namesake is quite nice as well! April 10, 2013 at 11:53am
Victoria: I was curious about Histoires de Parfum Colette, but I only smelled it on paper so far. I need to give it a proper test.
“The ideal perfume to wear when you want something lovely but don’t want to make a decision”–yes, that’s exactly it. 🙂 I find that I always feel good wearing it, but it’s never boring. April 10, 2013 at 1:07pm
key change: Gosh Victoria, the way you describe fragrances makes me think I should own and love all of them! I’d actually never even heard of Tocca, and am interested to see if my local (Canadian) Sephora would carry it. It’s on my “to sniff” list nonetheless, even though I’m typically not a fan of too much amber. Thanks for another amazingly-written review! Now, back to studying…ugh. April 10, 2013 at 11:56am
Victoria: I don’t recommend buying it unsniffed, since you never know how it might work on you, but it’s worth a sniff. It’s amber rich though, but the amber is very dry and crisp, not at all the thick and sweet variety a la Serge Lutens’s Ambre Sultan. April 10, 2013 at 1:08pm
kneale: Hi Victoria, what a wonderful review! You had me at gin and tonic. Now, I want to revisit Colette’s writings. Like Operafan, I love the Tocca wash for clothing. The scent lingers beautifully. April 10, 2013 at 12:34pm
Victoria: Every time I put it on, I think that I need to buy a bottle of gin. I don’t drink much hard liquor, but I love the smell of gin. 🙂 April 10, 2013 at 1:10pm
Jillie: Now I really want to know what gin you like!! My favourite is Bombay Blue Sapphire as it has such lovely floral notes. April 11, 2013 at 4:08am
Victoria: That’s my favorite, but I haven’t tried that many. But the angelica muskiness in Bombay Sapphire is so alluring. Somehow it stands out for me. April 11, 2013 at 4:41am
OperaFan: The fabric wash was such a great idea – and even though $20 for a 2/4oz bottle was expensive, it was an affordable alternative, and the SA rewarded me with samples, to boot. 🙂 April 11, 2013 at 11:43am
Tatiana: I love Colette, too. It’s my go to fragrance for evenings and nights at home. I only have a dab sample, which is quickly running out, so I find it close to the skin and not very long lived. Perhaps that changes when it’s sprayed. It is indeed very comforting. April 10, 2013 at 1:02pm
Victoria: I think that you will find it much more potent when sprayed. But I still like that it doesn’t announce my presence. That second-skin like feel is very pleasant, and as you say, comforting. Perhaps, on a grey, rainy day like today. It’s like wearing my favorite flannel pajamas or a well-worn it cashmere cardigan. 🙂 April 10, 2013 at 1:14pm
Betsy: I tried Colette today at Sephora after reading your review. After spritzing my hand I didn’t really get much of anything, but several hours later my hand smells absolutely delicate and lovely. I tested Shalimar on my other hand and although Shalimar is way more of a statement (and wonderful), Colette is holding its own with a gorgeous presence! I’m enjoying your writing so much…this is such a fun hobby! April 10, 2013 at 2:38pm
Victoria: It really is! I still never fail to be amazed how much pleasure something so simple–a few drop of perfume–can give me. 🙂
I love that you smelled Colette next to Shalimar, which in a way is a good match (and even a layering combo to emphasize the citrusy-ambery notes). It definitely has an impressive tenacity for such a mild-mannered perfume. April 10, 2013 at 5:27pm
Ann: I have only 6 bottles of perfumes, but even I sometimes spend a long time trying to decide what to wear. All of my perfumes are big and statement-making, so maybe I need something more low-key. April 10, 2013 at 3:03pm
Victoria: You may not need anything low-key, if that’s not your perfume taste. Or you could try wearing your fragrances in such a way as to minimize their sillage. For instance, you could mix a bit into the scented lotion or dab instead of spraying. It really works nicely. April 10, 2013 at 5:30pm
Emma M: Oh Victoria, I always come away from your blog so inspired! I’ve always ignored the Tocca fragrances, but I will now seek this one out…and track down a copy of Fruits and Flowers…and find a cedarwood chest to store my knitwear in! April 10, 2013 at 3:25pm
Victoria: Above all, I’m pleased that you want to find “Flowers and Fruit,” which is more than worthwhile. I already anticipate how much you will enjoy it, especially if you like Colette’s writing or beautiful prose in general.
These days I’m cedarwood chest bereft after our recent apartment change. So, I use a simpler, but more efficient technique–I store my cashmere sweaters in large ziplock bags and stuff several cedarwood planks or a handful of cedarwood balls inside. Works like a charm to scent the wool (and to keep moths away). April 10, 2013 at 5:35pm
Alice: Such a great idea! I’ll have to give it a shot. April 10, 2013 at 6:29pm
Victoria: You can also add sandalwood chips or vetiver roots. The scent will be amazing. April 11, 2013 at 4:39am
OperaFan: Agree with Alice – Great idea and perfect timing! April 11, 2013 at 11:52am
Victoria: Also, cloves, bay leaves and patchouli leaves can be used to scent clothes and save cashmere! 🙂 April 12, 2013 at 5:36am
Emma M: I’m an English literature graduate and lifelong bookworm – so yes, beautiful prose is high up on the list of things that make me happy!
I read ‘Gigi’ and ‘The Cat’ last summer and have been meaning to explore more of Colette’s writing; after reading this post I’ve already tracked down a copy of ‘Flowers and Fruit’ on Amazon April 12, 2013 at 5:54am
Lynn Morgan: Thank you for this, Victoria- I am a fan of Colette (the frgrance) as well as the writer, and I am also fond of Tocca’s Cleopatra and Florence.
Colette was a writer of incomparable sensuality- she envelopes you in the world she creates by writing with all five of her senses, and it should come as no surprise that she was obsessed with perfume and skin care, often cooking up her own skin potions. According to Truman Capote in “Answered Prayers” she wore Caron’s “Jicky” although I always imagine her in” L’heure Bleu.” For a dazzling look into Collette’s Belle Epoque world, see the Michelle Pfeiffer movie “Cherie” from a cople of years ago. It is ravishing visually, and Kathy Bates is hilarious as an old courtesan reminiscing about her younger, slimmer glory days April 11, 2013 at 6:48pm
Victoria: I might have seen that movie, but I need to watch it again. I love all of those actors, and “Cherie” is one of my favorite novels fro
Colette. April 12, 2013 at 5:43am
Geneviève: I have to try that one! Thanks for the good review! I really like the name of that fragrance. As I like Gigi (in book or as a musical), Colette inspire me!
For the other ones of the collection, I think they are okay fragrances. Some are quite beautiful, but perhaps not as unique, challenging or original as I would.
But I bought for Christmas to my mother-in-law, a pack of 4 of Tocca perfumes (in mini bottlea), because I felt they were so like her! And, my gift worked because she like them a lot !They are just perfect for her personlaity and because there are 4 in the box set, she can alternate anytime she wants. April 12, 2013 at 9:53am
Victoria: My mom loved Violette, which she wears whenever she feels that her other favorite violet, Bois de Violette, is too much. It’s simple and straightforward, but pretty. My only qualm is that at $68, I can find other equally pretty and less expensive options like Pacifica fragrances Andy reviewed yesterday. April 12, 2013 at 10:30am
Geneviève: That’s true! Well at least I was lucky because I did not pay much for my set! Christmas time is the best when it comes to buy fragrances! April 12, 2013 at 11:11am
Loredana: I have just purchased a bottle of Tocca Collette based purely on your review and several mentions you have made of this fragrance in other articles too. I have been searching where I can find it to sample here in Melbourne, Australia or online but my only option was to buy a bottle from the only place I could find it. I am looking forward to receiving it very much. Will be sure to check back in later and let you know what I think :-)) April 26, 2013 at 12:00pm
Andrea: What a lovely review!
I sampled some of this perfume at Anthropologie today, and I cannot stop sniffing my wrists! It’s so lovely, and has all the notes I love in my perfume combined perfectly.
A question: have you tried the rollerball version of this perfume? I don’t know much about perfumes; would the rollerball be any different from the bottled version?
Thank you! July 6, 2013 at 10:12pm
Victoria: It should be the same. They are so convenient for travel too, aren’t they? July 7, 2013 at 4:02pm
zari: I’ve been wearing Collette so much these past two weeks, and maybe its the cooler weather, but I LOVE the citrusy, ambery, musky aroma of it. My clothes smell like ultimate comfort. Thanks for introducing this to me Victoria! November 18, 2013 at 1:06pm
Victoria: Very pleased to hear it. If it were a niche perfume, it would be much more talked about, but oh well, more for us. 🙂 November 18, 2013 at 2:27pm
Aisha: I’m finally testing Tocca’s Violette today (got a sample in my Sephora order a while back). It’s actually quite interesting because it goes back and forth smelling like violet candy, and then ginger (or some other spicy flower). It seems to wear very, very, very close to skin, however. Not that that’s a bad thing. I think I mentioned once that I sing in a choir, and we’re not supposed to wear fragrances. But I sometimes sneak a dab of Lolita Lempicka to lift my spirits and hope the scent doesn’t permeate the room. 😉
Anyway, I haven’t tried Colette yet. I’m expecting a sample of Liliana soon though with a skin care order I placed recently. January 18, 2014 at 11:57am
Victoria: My mom loves Violette, because she says that it’s very easy to wear and feels soft on skin, and while it’s subtle, I can smell it on her. It’s a nice, pleasant sillage, especially good for the kind of occasions you describe.
Would like to hear what you think of LIliana! January 19, 2014 at 6:31pm
Aisha: Will let you know!
Just an aside … Violette only lasted four hours on me. 🙁 Does that happen to your mom too? I really did enjoy it while it lasted though. I also put a little bit of Paris, Violetta di Parma, and Aimez Moi on separate cards. I could really smell the ginger flower in Violette and the roses in Paris when I did that. It was a really fun experiment. 🙂 January 19, 2014 at 7:25pm
Victoria: She also said that it doesn’t last well, and that she prefers to think of it as a violet cologne rather than perfume. So, you’re not the only one with this complaint. January 20, 2014 at 10:41am
Aisha: I got my sample of Liliana yesterday, and I’m wearing it today. When I first applied it, I was surprised by how familiar the scent seemed. At first I thought of the classic Lauren, and my heart skipped a beat in delight. (You know how much I miss that one. 🙂 ) Then it transitioned in to something that smelled like Pleasures — which is not what I’m aiming for because that scent, albeit lovely, is way too familiar. Now, about two hours later, Liliana has finally taken on it’s own character. I smell something deliciously citrus, as well as gardenia. When I close my eyes, I picture an early summer garden party with ladies in chiffon cocktail dresses and gentlemen in white suits. But I wouldn’t say that the fragrance is necessarily a cocktail party one. In fact, this one can just as easily be worn with jeans, a t-shirt and a pair of Keds.
I don’t know how long this will last on skin, but Liliana is a lovely fragrance that is perfect for late spring/early summer. I’m tempted to buy a full bottle of this because of that citrus/floral combo. It would make a lovely transition scent to the Orange Sanguine and Mandarine Basilic I like to wear during the heat of summer. January 23, 2014 at 10:10am
Victoria: Thank you so much! Sounds much more interesting than I anticipated. January 23, 2014 at 11:37am
Aisha: I wouldn’t say it’s a stop-you-in-your-tracks interesting scent, like Lolita Lempicka, Vanille Tonka, Cuir de Russie or Boise des Iles. But it is delightful and pretty without being too familiar. I’d give this a 3 1/2 to 4 starts — depending upon how long it lasts on me. So far, it’s lastest almost four hours and unlike Violette is still going strong….. It might make it to my 4-star list. 😉 January 23, 2014 at 11:53am
Aisha: lasted, not lastest. 😉 January 23, 2014 at 11:54am
Aisha: UGH! And “stars,” not starts. I need coffee… January 23, 2014 at 11:55am
Victoria: It sounds good! One needs pretty, easy to wear perfumes to mix things up. January 23, 2014 at 11:59am
Aisha: It’s starting to fade at the seven-hour mark, but I do get a good whiff of it every once in a while. I’ll need to try this again in May or June when it’s warmer before making a final decision. January 23, 2014 at 3:02pm
Victoria: I’ll keep an eye out for it too! Thank you again for the description. January 23, 2014 at 3:41pm
Aisha: You’re welcome! I’d like to know what you think too (of course). I also wonder if was wearing enough to give it a true test. My sample isn’t in a spray bottle. It’s one of those dab-on ones. I’ll look for it in a Sephora.
I still want to try Roses de Chloe. Must get a sample. LOL! January 23, 2014 at 3:47pm
Katy: Lovely Victoria! I was so thrilled that your post on this gorgeous perfume appeared when I searched google for it. I have known thebTocca line for years but somehow managed to overlook this beauty. The other day – completely on a lark – I sniffed the cap of a tester bottle tucked in a corner of the local beauty supply and – gracious! The cap smells to me of the glorious dry down, which is my favorite part. I feel that it particularly captures the milky/creamy sweet qualities of sandalwood so gloriously – and I have been on a years long quest for that Exact smell to hit my nose from a perfume! Are there other frags that come to mind which capture a similar quality to Colette’s dry down?? The top is a bit too lemon-bar for me, but the drydown is so precious that it’s so worth the wait.
Cheers,
Katy February 23, 2014 at 1:06pm
Victoria: Katy, I’m not sure if it’s like Colette, but I love the sandalwood drydown of Olfactive Studio’s Lumiere Blanche. It’s so warm and cozy. It’s muskier than Colette for sure, but it’s worth trying. February 24, 2014 at 10:21am
Colette: I have never come across this perfume, obviously it is not distributed in every country.
Having said that I travel quite a bit.
You described the fragrance so I will make a point of finding it.
I love your blog, since I was a child I have always loved perfume and now I am of a certain age, I still possess that love. March 19, 2015 at 2:32pm
Victoria: Thank you very much for visiting, Colette! Hope that you can try this perfume. It’s such a well-done, reasonably priced fragrance. March 19, 2015 at 4:15pm
Shelby Nicole Neal: I have been wearing this scent for a few years and I will never stop wearing it because I adore it so much! I am so happy to have stumbled upon it one day while I was shopping in Anthropologie! It’s been love at first sniff ever since! I love the smell so much that I’ve been searching for a lotion and body wash with similar fragrance notes but to no avail so far. :/ I would love to know if you have any suggestions on a similarly smelling lotion and body wash to compliment colette’s perfection! And by the way, thank you for capturing the scent of Colette so vividly in your description! Hope to hear back! June 4, 2017 at 6:58pm