If you were a medieval caliph and desired a fragrance to delight your senses, your royal perfumers would have mixed Tibetan musk with an equal amount of Yemeni ambergris and steeped the mixture in ben tree oil over a weak fire. They would have stirred it with a gold spoon and used a silver vessel to refine it further until the liquid itself turned golden and smelled like paradise itself. If you were the wife of the caliph Harun al-Rashid, the one of One Thousand and One Nights fame, then you would have asked for a touch of jasmine oil to remind you of Persian gardens in bloom. According to the 14th century Egyptian scholar Al-Nuwayri, such were indeed the refined tastes of his time.
The luxurious, oil-based perfumes Al-Nuwayri describes in his book are the distant ancestors of the modern extrait de parfum. Today, the extrait de parfum is usually diluted in alcohol, but the proportion of fragrant oils in its formula is still sumptuously high. In my recent FT magazine column, The Allure of Extrait de Parfum, I describe what makes extrait de parfum different and why it still has a place in our perfume wardrobe.
As I’ve noted in my article about perfume concentrations, the proportion of oil alone doesn’t matter as much as the ingredients themselves. However, the parfum, along with the Eau de Cologne, is the oldest way of enjoying fragrance. It was meant to be applied directly on skin, allowing it to envelop the wearer in a soft cloud of scent. For instance, the great classics like Chanel No 5, Guerlain Jicky or Caron Tabac Blond were created as such concentrated blends. Their lighter variations appeared later in the second half of the 20th century when atomizers became popular. To continue reading, please click here.
What are some of your favorite extrait de parfums?
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
77 Comments
RM: I just read the article – I agree that extraits definitely have a part in our lives. I have a question though – I’ve been looking for a disposable extrait applicator since I am wary of contaminating the parfum. Where could I find such things? It is anything like a pipette dropper? Thanks! October 7, 2019 at 7:28am
Victoria: Disposable plastic pipettes are the best applicator. You can buy a package of 100 on Ebay for under $5. I reuse them, so I make sure to either attach them to the perfume box or to label them. October 7, 2019 at 8:47am
RM: Thank you so much for the info! 🙂 October 20, 2019 at 11:47am
Patricia Devine: I use a cotton bud, apply the perfume then snip the end off the cotton bud and tuck it in my bra. 🙂 I buy the all-cotton cotton buds, in order to avoid plastic. October 8, 2019 at 2:28am
Cassieflower: What a cunning idea. Love it. October 8, 2019 at 9:44am
Victoria: A good idea! Thank you for the tip. October 9, 2019 at 11:36am
RM: Thank you for the tip! I’m a guy but I imagine that this would be good to do in a pocket square or a shirt pocket – sniff it as one goes through one’s day 🙂 October 20, 2019 at 11:49am
Gretchen: Oh, how I love extraits, particularly for the Guerlains and Chanels, and for Arpege. I also have a Caron Nuit de Noel in extrait and it is almost too much. But Vol de Nuit, Shalimar, Nahema, Boos dels Iles, and No. 19 absolutely sing in their extrait versions, while I have eaux des parfums as well because, well, sometimes you need or want access to both versions. October 7, 2019 at 9:16am
Victoria: I agree, some fragrances are so different in different concentrations that it makes sense owning both the parfum and the EDT/EDP. Bois des Iles and almost all of Guerlains are such examples. October 7, 2019 at 11:05am
Victoria: I also find No 19 to be essential in the parfum version, but I love it enough to own all of the other variations, included No 19 Poudre. October 7, 2019 at 11:06am
Kristina: Victoria, I am thinking of finally buying No. 19 extrait. I used to wear the EdP in the Nineties before the reformulation which for me ruined the scent. I wonder how the perfume version compares… October 7, 2019 at 3:20pm
Victoria: It’s not the same, but it’s closer to the original. October 9, 2019 at 11:33am
Gretchen: Ugh, autocorrect! Meanwhile, has anyone tried the Ormonde Jayne elixirs? I got the introductory set of samples when she first released them, and they seem to have a lot of oud in many of them, making Ormonde, for example, smell vastly different than my beloved Ormonde Woman. Even Isfarkand smells like a different fragrance. October 7, 2019 at 11:37am
Cassieflower: What a cunning idea. Love it. October 8, 2019 at 9:47am
Tamasin: I tried the new Isfarkand Elixir in the boutique and they explained that it’s almost
The same formula as Isfarkand, but without the pink pepper, and with a cedar note. I sprayed Elixir on my left and the original on my right. And then slightly preferred the original, but was that sentimental loyalty? October 9, 2019 at 6:05am
Victoria: I found the peppery top note a perfect counterpoint to the rest of the composition, so in that case I also liked the original slightly more. The extrait is more opulent, though. October 9, 2019 at 11:40am
Victoria: They are very different, some are deeper, some have woody notes emphasized, some put a stronger accent on florals. It’s a good idea to try them first. October 9, 2019 at 11:29am
Tara C: I have very few extraits as I prefer to spray, but what I have is Guerlain Chamade, Mon Précieux Nectar & Cherry Blossom, Vero Profumo Onda, Kiki, Rubj & Rozy, Rochas Byzance, plus two Amouage attars, Homage & Tribute, which function like extraits. Apparently the Nasomatto scents are supposed to be extraits, I have several of those too. October 7, 2019 at 11:50am
Victoria: Yes, Vero Kern’s extraits are very different from the other concentrations, as she herself intended. October 9, 2019 at 11:29am
Nancy Chan: Started my parfum extrait journey with Chanel No.5. Recently acquired Dior’s J’Adore touche de parfum, which has a dropper in which the perfume is applied to the skin. It is not really an extrait, but more of a perfume oil which can be layered with the J’Adore fragrance of your choice. I prefer to wear it on its own. October 7, 2019 at 12:36pm
Victoria: I also tried it on its own, and it works really well. October 9, 2019 at 11:29am
Karen A: Ohhh, treasures! No.5 (anytime) and Coco (but only in the winter for me) are two extraits I love and I’m thinking of asking for Coromandel extrait for, well, no good reason other than I imagine it will be stunning.
Love how they are detectable the following morning! October 7, 2019 at 12:40pm
Victoria: That’s the best part, isn’t it! That late drydown. October 9, 2019 at 11:30am
Karen A: Forgot all about one of my treasures, found a sealed, unopened box of Lanvin’s Arpeggio extrait at an antique store several years ago. Worn it several times – why save it, right! October 9, 2019 at 1:45pm
Notturno7: Dear Karen A, nice to see your comments here. Thank you for recommending Coco extrait. I’m so glad I got it.
Let us know how you like Coromandel extrait if end up getting it.
I have EDT but haven’t used it in a long time.
I’m glad you like Arpège extrait. I can’t wait for my order to arrive.
What scent have you been wearing lately? October 10, 2019 at 2:56am
Karen A: Hi!! I’ve been wearing Coromandel edp – I got some samples a while ago. I love it but it’s def a tiny-bit-will-do fragrance. During the summer I lived in Gardens of India, really beautiful, quiet fragrance. October 10, 2019 at 3:56am
Notturno7: Hi Karen A, I’m so glad you’re using your Arpège extrait, the vintage find. Isn’t it precious, opening those little fine made bottles. They’re like little treasures.
I so enjoy the ritual of putting on pure perfume.
Actually, I’m ready to go to sleep but I already put on a little dab of Calandre extrait. For sweet dreams 😃 November 1, 2019 at 4:29am
Ee Jien: I own quite a bit of extraits. A lot of indies release their creations in extrait form which makes it less rare to me. I even own one that has 50% concentration (St Clair Casablanca). But yeah, they each have different strengths on my skin. Used to own the current version of Bois des Iles/ Chanel no.19 but it smashed to smithereens 😥 October 7, 2019 at 12:47pm
Victoria: Oh no! October 9, 2019 at 11:30am
Aurora: I enjoyed the descriptions from Al Nuraywi so much, they must have been incredible perfume oils indeed.
Hands down my absolutely favorite extrait is vintage Caleche (I even have a back up bottle), what I love most about it is the smooth sandalwood and it lingers for eons.
My collection of extraits: Chanel No 5 both vintage and modern, Caron Farnesiana (modern), Caron Rose (vintage, my favorite rose perfume), YSL Y (vintage), Crepe de Chine (my most prized), Ivoire (vintage), Shalimar (modern), l’Heure Bleue (modern), Jicky (modern), Miss Dior (vintage), Ma Griffe (vintage, No 19 (vintage). October 7, 2019 at 12:57pm
Victoria: They probably smelled like the attars you can get in India or the Middle East, if I judge based on the descriptions. But much more sumptuous, since they used the real animalic ingredients. October 9, 2019 at 11:31am
Klaas: Oh my, extraits were (and are) too much of an investment for me. I am on a budget so I usually have to make do with small spray bottles. I like to wear different scents, so buying small sizes helps me build a nice collection.
However, i have made exceptions for some Guerlains (they used to sell the extraits in tiny 7,5 ml bottles, and those were kind of in my reach). I’ve worn Chamade, Mitsouko and all time favorite Vol de Nuit in extrait version. They were truly wonderful, and wearing them made me feel like a milion bucks. I didn’t keep them for special ocasions though, I’ve even worn them to school sometimes 😉
And back in the day, when Chanel Exclusives were still extremely exclusive (just 3 scents and only available in Paris) I once bought a Cuir de Russie extrait. With sweaty hands and fully realising it would be macaroni for two weeks. Still one of the best buys of my life 😉 October 7, 2019 at 2:13pm
Victoria: Are you still enjoying your Cuir de Russie? 🙂 October 9, 2019 at 11:32am
Klaas: I wish I still had some……I used it till the very, very last drop! I did keep the box and the bottle, the stopper still smells great! October 10, 2019 at 12:41pm
Nancy Chan: Hi Klass, I agree with you about Guerlain’s parfum. I wish they offered smaller size bottles just like Chanel. October 11, 2019 at 5:22am
Nora Sz.: Hi Victoria and perfume lovers,
My long comment disappeared in the ever hungry stomach of tech devil 🙁
One question though: in India and UAE I smelled fantastic scents on men yet none was as overpowering as the western male colognes that knock you off in the wrong way. Can it because of the way they wear perfumes (dabbing not spraying)? October 7, 2019 at 3:22pm
Victoria: They put it on clothes, mostly. This way the sillage is more subtle, but it still lingers. October 9, 2019 at 11:33am
Natalie: Years ago Chanel offered a box set with little bottles of various scents such as No 5, No 19, and Coco all in the parfum form. I wish they would do that again. No 5 parfum is my favorite and have since repurchased individual bottles of the parfum, but I remember I really enjoyed No 19 too. I’d love to have the No 5 Parfum Grand Extrait if I ever get my windfall. The pipettes are such a good idea. I searched for pipettes on Amazon and several results came up. October 7, 2019 at 4:28pm
Victoria: I loved this set and had one at some point. October 9, 2019 at 11:34am
Natalie: Years ago a I bought a Chanel box set before the holidays which contained little bottles of various scents such as No 5, No 19, and Coco all in the parfum form. I wish they would do that again. No 5 parfum is my favorite and have since repurchased individual bottles of the parfum, but I remember I really enjoyed No 19 too. I’d love to have the No 5 Parfum Grand Extrait if I ever get my windfall. The pipettes are such a good idea. I searched for pipettes on Amazon and several results came up. October 7, 2019 at 4:31pm
Victoria: There are different sizes, but the smallest pipettes work just as well. October 9, 2019 at 11:34am
Joy Erickson: I love my small bottle of Chanel no 5 extrait. My bottle has the crystal top for dabbing. I touch it to my pajama sleeves every night and swear I sleep better. To me it is unrecognizable from my Chanel no 5 spray. Dabbing a bit on is a way to apply the fragrance in a more subtle way. It also reminds me of my mother’s perfume bottles and the way that she applied perfume.
What a wonderful, thought provoking article today, Victoria. October 7, 2019 at 6:54pm
Victoria: There is such a beautiful ritual to applying perfume the old-fashioned way. October 9, 2019 at 11:35am
Filomena: I have several Chanel extracts: No. 5, Bois des Iles, No. 32, Coco Noir, Cuir de Russie, plus Ormande Jane Woman, Helmut Lang’s original fragrance in parfum, 7 of Francesca Bianchi’s perfumes and 7 of Men Fusciumi’s. I once had a bottle of the original Givenchy L’Interdit pure parfum. With extract, a little dab will do you! October 7, 2019 at 11:27pm
Victoria: Such beautiful choices! October 9, 2019 at 11:35am
Filomena: Thank you Victoria. I cherish them! October 9, 2019 at 4:58pm
rickyrebarco: I love the Chanel extraits. My favorites are Chanel Jersey and Chanel Beige in the pure parfum version. The extraits are fuller and richer smelling. The Beige Extrait especially smells different from the EDT versions, it has much bigger honey notes that are truly delicious.
I also enjoy the creations of the Au brothers for Auphorie perfumes. All their creations are extraits and they are really gorgeous. They are very strong as expected, so one can only wear 1 or 2 sprays, but they last forever on skin. October 8, 2019 at 12:28am
Victoria: Chanel Jersey in perfume is so different! I didn’t care it for it in the EDT, but I loved the extrait. October 9, 2019 at 11:35am
Patricia Devine: My two favourite extraits are vintage Fleurs de Rocaille in a little Baccarat bottle and a very limited edition Opium in a black-tasselled bottle that I understand was only given out to the press during the launch. I also have extraits of Balmain de Balmain, Ivoire, vintage Bandit, Tweed (a much under-rated fragrance, IMHO), the original versions of Vent Vert, Jolie Madame and Fracas, and Sung. Oh, and a 1930s bottle of Arpège. The Opium in particular is very different from the spray version, with a soft, buttery feeling as if it is you yourself who are producing the fragrance from your own body. October 8, 2019 at 2:24am
Eric Brandon: Opium parfum really is a different beast from the EdT. I honestly prefer the carnation explosion of the EdT, but somehow own more of the parfum. Go figure! It is a much lamented masterpiece though. October 9, 2019 at 2:53am
Victoria: Caron extraits are legendary! October 9, 2019 at 11:36am
spe: Kelly Caleche, Coco, No. 22, No. 5, L’Heure Bleue, Caleche.
The one I really want now: La Panthere Cartier Extrait.
I think with my fair, dry skin, extraits are the way I wear perfume best. October 8, 2019 at 5:56pm
Victoria: I’ve tried La Panthere Cartier Extrait, and it’s a bombshell. October 9, 2019 at 11:38am
spe: Simply cannot find it anywhere. I will need to live vicariously through your experience with it…. October 10, 2019 at 9:05pm
Nancy Chan: Wow, Caleche in extrait de parfum must be great. October 10, 2019 at 3:37am
spe: It is absolutely beautiful – and lately extremely difficult to find in stores. Probably Hermes boutiques can still order it.
It is such a beautiful scent.
I forgot a few: Chanel Gardenia, Ysatis, and First parfum. Good stuff 🙂 October 10, 2019 at 9:03pm
Nancy Chan: Hi Spe, Caleche extrait de parfum is still available from Hermes’s website, and from their boutique. October 11, 2019 at 3:49am
Eric Brandon: Thank you for your article! One of the most pleasurable experiences I have with my collection is putting on just a touch of my Champagne parfum. The stone fruit is so realistic, I can almost picture it, glistening under the studio lights.
I have some Tocade parfum as well. I didn’t even know it existed until I saw a post on Instagram. The rose is so lovely and realistic. That one comes with a glass (maybe crystal?) application wand. Heaven!
I have quite a few parfums in my collection, come to think of it! All of my vintage Guerlains are treasures, but I couldn’t live without my Vol de Nuit! October 9, 2019 at 1:59am
Victoria: Vol de Nuit is one of the most perfect Guerlain extraits. October 9, 2019 at 11:38am
Victoria: And Chamade. October 9, 2019 at 11:38am
Klaas Backx: I so agree! Have you tried the modern extrait? There’s a 30 ml. bottle that sometimes tempts me, though it is not available for sampling…just curious… October 10, 2019 at 12:46pm
Klaas: (I was talking about Vol de Nuit) October 10, 2019 at 12:50pm
Deanna: I thought I was was buying a bottle of EDP Vol de Nuit, very difficult to find now, from Debenhams in London, but subsequently realised it was the pure perfume.
Can’t bring myself to open it!
Back in the day ( the sixties to be accurate)
Perfumes were cheaper, and even though I was a student I think I had most of the Guerlain range, can’t think now how I could possiblyafford it. I used to buy the perfume extract as well as the toilet water, (was there EDP then ?)
adding the perfume to the toilet water into a handbag spray.
I even the soaps to go with the perfumes!
Annoyingly my then boyfriends ex wore Shalimar, so I had to change to Vol de Nuit. October 9, 2019 at 3:46am
Victoria: Vol de Nuit is a great choice, though. October 9, 2019 at 11:39am
Klaas: Oh, their soaps were won-der-ful! Wrapped in thick, gold embossed paper, they were like little treasures. Guerlain used to make exquisite bath oils as well. They came in 15 ml. bottles and were a lot less expensive then the extraits, I wore them straight on my skin sometimes. It kind of worked, though they did stain my clothes 😉 October 10, 2019 at 12:50pm
Deanna: Hi Klaas,
Yes! The bath oils, I forgot to mention them.
As a precocious schoolgirl I bought many Guerlain bath oils in lieu of perfumes. As they were so cheap, then.
So strong they distorted the fragrances, but you couldn’t complain about the sillage.
I even have some Mitsouko hair elixir and body lotion left over from the 60’s and they still smell strongly perfumed and haven’t gone off.
I first smelt Chanel no 5 as a bath oil, it’s not available any more, but that was really beautiful (neat) and not overpowering. October 10, 2019 at 2:13pm
Notturno7: Dear Victoria, I love this blog. Thank you!
Such a special community here.
Oh, what a treasures pure perfumes are.
I’m ready to go to sleep and I put a dab of Arpège extrait that just arrived today.
It’s gorgeous and it has so many layers.
Your review is right on!
Years ago when Perfumes, The Guide came out, I started collecting Guerlain extraits and I still have them. I’m almost afraid to use them too much. The bottles are so gorgeous. It delights me just to open the box and look.
The SA saw that I spent too much so she made me a ton of samples of pure perfumes which I still have and use. I know, I shouldn’t be saving the perfumes but enjoying them all.
Of Chanel extraits, I use No 5, No 19 and No 22 most, then Coco and Bois des Iles.
With winter coming I’m getting ready for Nuit de Noel, and Bellodgia extraits that I love to dab at night.
Few years ago I found my mom’s bottle of Femme EDT and realized how much I love it. After search on ebay I found a vintage Femme extrait and it was a love at first sniff. A friend who is only into essential oil perfumes, asked me what I was wearing when I had Femme on and I dabbed some on her wrists. She loved it.
I also use Hermes Galop a lot in summer and Fracas. Oh I can go on and on.
It’s a real passion going on here 😉😇🙃 October 11, 2019 at 3:51am
Notturno7: Hi Fazal,
thanks for letting us know.
I have a vintage Rive Gauche spray, don’t remember if EDT or EDP and I love it.
The rose in it is lovely.
Calandre perfume must be really special.
I’m really enjoying vintage Arpège extrait these last days of summer, which is in the similar category to my nose. October 16, 2019 at 2:32am
Fazal: A tough question but some extraits I really enjoy are Calandre, Caleche, Ysatis, Shalimar, Feminite du Bois, and Nuit de Noel (all vintage versions). October 11, 2019 at 1:41pm
Notturno7: Hi Fazal, those must be gorgeous in vintage versions. Calandre EDT I remember from my mom’s collection. She might stlll have it and I remember liking it as a child. The perfume must be heavenly. I wonder if it’s discontinued.
Enjoy your lovely collection and thanks for sharing. October 12, 2019 at 4:38am
Fazal: Hi Notturno, I am not sure if Calandre is still being made but I do know it was until few years ago. Calandre is beautiful in all vintage versions, not just parfum. Parfum comes across as creamier though.
You know Calandre came first and then YSL Rive Gauche and the general idea is that vintage Rive Gauche eclipsed Calandre but Calandre eventually won because it survived reformulations better than Rive Gauche. This is not my experience though because even in vintage versions, I actually find Calandre to be superior to Rive Gauche, including the parfum concentration. October 12, 2019 at 5:10am
Nancy Chan: I forgot to add Karl Lagerfeld’s Sun, Moon and Stars parfum. October 11, 2019 at 4:21pm
EmeraldDream: Thank you Victoria for your great article in FT!
When I was a kid, I used to wonder how expensive french perfume smelled since we normally only got the EdT-versions of mainstream scents where I grew up. These days it is different, Internet shopping has made vintages and pure perfume versions of classics more readily available and also there seems to be a renaissance for high quality perfume, not least thanks to communities and blogs like this one, and the works of Sanchez & Turin.
Here are some of my favourites in extrait:
Jean Patou 1000 (to my mind, there is no one better, and the extrait is vastly superior to the EdT) and Joy; Chanel no 19 (especially vintage) and no 5; Lanvin, Arpège; Caron Nuit de Noel and En avion; Rochas, Femme; Dior, Miss Dior and Diorissimo; Robert Piquet, Fracas; YSL Opium; Nina Ricci, L’Air du Temps; Boucheron Boucheron (maybe not the fragrance which is very big in an 80’s kind of way, but the gorgeous ring shaped bottle); Roja Dove, Aoud (I give him some of the credit for the perfume renaissance with his Haute Parfumerie and passion for classical perfumery). And last but not least: Guerlain, L’Heure Bleue (I have one from the 1940’s which is still absolutely wonderful), Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit and Shalimar. October 11, 2019 at 5:52pm
Notturno7: Hi EmeraldDream,
I love your list of favorites.
How does extrait of 1000 smell like and is it a same fragrance as the EDP? I tried a tester of the spray in the store.
Is it similar to Joy perfume or more chypre like? ? I’m curious how they compare as I have Joy extrait.
Isn’t Diorissimo extrait gorgeous? This makes me want to look for my bottle that I’m afraid to use much, cause it’s so precious.
Opium is perfect, now that the weather is getting colder.
I share your love for L’Air du Temps, it reminds me of autumn. October 12, 2019 at 4:33am
EmeraldDream: Hi Notturno7,
Yes, judging from your own list, we have similar tastes 🙂 I have been revelling in vintage Arpége extrait all autumn.
As for Jean Patou 1000: nothing I have ever experienced can compare to my first sniff of this masterpiece. It was as if the genie in the little green jade bottle had reached out, grabbed ahold of me and pulled me back in to the velvety magic of A Thousand and One Nights.
The juice is ambery gold, and it is the most integrated perfume I have ever smelled, it is so complete, smooth and polished. It is sometimes described as a chypre floral, but chypres are often described as tailored and 1000 has no angles. Its mossiness is integrated in the whole, and sometimes makes me think of that slightly sweet earthy smell of newly fallen leaves in autumn.
Compared to Joy: they have the same wonderful denseness and luxury grade ingredients, as well as the same smooth, well rounded quality. It is easy to see that 1000 was created in the same tradition as Joy. But whereas Joy is basically a wonderfully well blended rose/jasmin fragrance, 1000 is much more complex.
I don’t think I have ever smelled the EdP version of 1000, but I would warmly recommend you try the vintage pure perfume version. October 12, 2019 at 12:48pm
Notturno7: Hi EmeraldDream,
your description of Jean Patou Mille perfume is amazing. I really enjoyed reading it as I can imagine how it smells now.
I hope I get to try it one day.
I love complex perfumes where you get to savor many layers and transitions.
You mention En Avion extrait, too. I just bought a bottle of it in vintage and it’s special.
It was a blind buy because of Victoria’s lovely review and a recommendation of kind person here on the blog.
I’m so enjoying the correspondence here.
Thank you October 14, 2019 at 1:15am
Notturno7: Hi Fazal, thanks for your recommendation of Calandre pure perfume. I scored a great deal on small bottle of vintage extrait on ebay and I’m so happy. It smells just like you described it.
Thank you! November 1, 2019 at 4:23am