Yesterday, when reviewing Valentino Valentina Acqua Floreale, Kenzo Amour I Love You, and Juicy Couture La La, I promised three more sheer spring roses. The fragrances chosen today, Cartier Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose, Balenciaga L’Eau Rose, and Van Cleef et Arpels Féerie Spring Blossom set rose into a frame of woods and amber. In contrast to yesterday’s selection, this group is crisp and sharp, rather than soft and romantic.
Cartier Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose
Quality is never an issue at Cartier, and with Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose you’re getting a well-made woody rose. The floral accord that feels rich despite being crystalline and luminous is superimposed on the dry amber base. The original Eau de Cartier is a peppery cedarwood with a wistful leafy note, and Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose retraces some of its austere form. A touch of sweetness from rose is an interesting touch. Even vanilla feels crisp and crunchy in this perfume. Of course, you can find many great amber roses at a lower price point, such as the fabulous Yves Rocher Rose Absolu, but Eau de Cartier Goutte de Rose is a worthwhile option.
Balenciaga L’Eau Rose
The original Balenciaga Paris was a translucent mossy violet, with a tender, understated presence. L’Eau Rose puts some sparkle in the original with berries and citrus rind and gives the rest of the composition a coy character. Despite the presence of fruity notes, L’Eau Rose is not overly sweet. It retains a gauzy, weightless character well into its lingering drydown of woods and moss.It’s radiant without being flashy and it is sophisticated without being high-maintenance. On the other hand, I smell Florabotanica and wonder why another sheer rose is necessary in Balenciaga’s collection.
Van Cleef et Arpels Féerie Spring Blossom
Féerie Spring Blossom is one of the least exciting perfumes in this group, but the packaging is striking. As you would expect from the jewelry house of Van Cleef et Arpels, renowned for their expertise in precious stones, every detail of the faceted bottle and the flower shaped cap is well-thought out. It’s a shame that Féerie Spring Blossom, designed as a take on the original sumptuous Féerie, is so predictable.
The rose is paired with the brightness of lychee and pink pepper–we’ve smelled it all before many times, and the initial honeyed impression soon softens to a fresh peony. If it maintained at least the same amount of sparkle and zest, I would have liked it better, but the drydown is both limpid and sharp, a feat in itself. Not bad, but the cute bottle deserves much better.
Speaking of better, what are your favorite fresh rose fragrances?
Cartier, Balenciaga and Van Cleef et Arples perfumes are available at the department stores, including Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus.
55 Comments
rosarita: Rosine’s Un Zest de Rose is a light citrus tea rose, and a summer staple. January 22, 2013 at 7:31am
Victoria: One of my favorites! I bring it out every summer the moment the weather turns warm. January 22, 2013 at 9:57am
Cornelia Blimber: I am with Rosarita: Un Zest de Rose is my ”good morning spritz,” in summer and in winter.
I also like Paris Printemps a lot, a flanker to YstL Paris, now discontinued. I still have it and sometimes I brighten up my Shalimar with a touch of Paris Printemps.
my favourites where always tuberose or/and jasmine perfumes, but in the last time my nose wants roses as well. So many thanks for your reviews, very helpful! January 22, 2013 at 7:43am
Victoria: That’s an interesting combo of Shalimar + Paris Printemps. I must try it myself. January 22, 2013 at 9:57am
Cornelia Blimber: sorry, that English!!! ”they were” I mean. January 22, 2013 at 7:45am
Victoria: No worries! 🙂 January 22, 2013 at 9:58am
sara: The rose mixed to saffron, a perfume from Scent on Canvas range (available in Barcelona and Madrid) It is called “rose opera”. I do not know if is already available in other countries but you can order it online. Best Regards January 22, 2013 at 7:51am
Victoria: Rose Opera is such a great name! I haven’t tried it, but it’s very tempting. January 22, 2013 at 9:59am
solanace: I’m in love with Rose Splendide. Full bottle love. That rose leaf note got me hooked! Dyptyque’s eau rose smells so soapy and dull compared to it! January 22, 2013 at 7:55am
Barbara: Yay, another Rose Splendide fan! 🙂 January 22, 2013 at 8:14am
Victoria: Rose Splendide is fantastic! It’s simple, not overly ornate, but everything about it is so polished. January 22, 2013 at 10:00am
Barbara: An easy question! Rose Rose d’Ete and Annick Goutal Rose Splendide. January 22, 2013 at 8:13am
Barbara: Sorry, posting before I had my coffee! I mean Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Ete. January 22, 2013 at 8:15am
solanace: Hi! It’s pretty addictive, isn’t it? January 22, 2013 at 9:15am
Barbara: It’s totally addictive! I can’t get enough of that rose leaf and petal goodness which is a match made in heaven. January 22, 2013 at 9:21am
Victoria: I’m also glad to see more fans of Rose Splendide (and of Rose d’Ete). January 22, 2013 at 10:00am
Henrique Brito: Victoria, i’m just curious about the star rating that you would give on the three ones – specially the cartier. And i agree with you, quality is never a problem with cartier fragrances and it’s one of the reasons that i apreciate a lot this brand 🙂 January 22, 2013 at 8:29am
Victoria: I’ll fix the stars in a moment, but 3 is the most I would give. It’s a bit too predictable, but it’s well-made. January 22, 2013 at 10:02am
Austenfan: Still Ecume de Rose, Une Rose Splendide and Un Zeste de Rose. I often wear Kelly Calèche for a light rose as well. January 22, 2013 at 9:13am
Victoria: I was just chatting with Suzanna about Ecume de Rose, which unfortunately had to be discontinued. It was a great rose in that it was fresh and bright, but also interesting to wear top to finish. January 22, 2013 at 11:30am
Austenfan: Did it not sell? Or was it no longer IFRA compatible? January 22, 2013 at 4:16pm
Victoria: I believe that it was because of the regulations. They couldn’t use some materials that were the essential parts of the formula. January 22, 2013 at 4:21pm
Austenfan: A pity, as it is a good rose. I am glad that my bottle is still in good shape. January 22, 2013 at 4:35pm
Victoria: It really is! I know that there are so many roses, but Ecume was very special. January 23, 2013 at 6:25am
Monika: Sad news. Ecume was my favourite rose too. I can’t afford to stock up now – so is there anything in the type you could recommend as the replacement? January 24, 2013 at 3:00am
Victoria: I’m not sure, maybe Sa Majeste la Rose? Ecume had a fantastic balance between sparkling and lush, and it smelled like fresh tea roses without being dull. It was a simple idea, but I’ve had a difficult time to find something similar. January 24, 2013 at 7:13am
Monika: Thank you, Victoria, I will try Sa Majeste. Ecume was “my rose” but now that is discontinued, maybe I shouldn’t try to find something similar, but start again the quest for a “rose for me”. Maybe a different type this time… Still I’m a little sad.
And thank you for your blog. 🙂 January 24, 2013 at 9:52am
Victoria: Monica, I agree 100%. It’s better just to look for a rose that would move you, rather than trying to replace Ecume (a frustrating exercise). Suzanna wrote this article about some of her favorite roses, and you might find some interesting ideas here (and in the comments section):
https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/10/the-ultimate-rose-perfume.html January 24, 2013 at 10:10am
Merlin: Yesterday I wrote Sa Majeste la Rose, but another fresh rose I love is L’ombre dans Leau. The EDP is more of a rich rose fragrance, and to me the EDT is stronger on the green crisp side of it. January 22, 2013 at 9:25am
Victoria: I fell in love with L’ombre dans Leau anew when I tried the EDP, and I agree with your description. The EDP is richer, warmer, and the EDT is greener and zestier. January 22, 2013 at 11:27am
dml: My current rose perfume is Miss Charming Juliette Has A Gun. January 22, 2013 at 9:27am
Victoria: I need to revisit it. I liked Lady Vengeance very much for a dark, earthy rose. January 22, 2013 at 11:26am
dml: I read that Miss Charming is similar to Stella, but I haven’t smelled Stella, so I can’t compare.
PS I would like to thank you for making this blog. It’s a pleasure to read! January 22, 2013 at 11:48am
Victoria: My pleasure! I’m glad that you’re enjoying it!
I made a note to try Miss Charming. Juliette Has a Gun is sold at one of the boutiques nearby, so it should be fairly easy to find. January 22, 2013 at 12:15pm
Daisy: JHAG Lady Vengeance has my vote for favorite rose.I like it more than the Vengeance Extreme simply because I prefer the fragrance to be all about the rose, not all about the patchouli. January 22, 2013 at 12:58pm
Victoria: I also preferred it to the Extreme version, mostly because I loved the red rose petal impression in the original, while the Extreme is sharper and earthier. January 22, 2013 at 4:20pm
Jamie: Great reviews! I might look for Cartier, but the other two sound really dull.
My favorite fresh rose would be Stella. January 22, 2013 at 9:29am
Victoria: Stella is excellent, and it really set the whole ambery rose trend. January 22, 2013 at 11:25am
Lucas: That rose from Cartier sounds nice. All these rosy perfume, they’re already available where you live? I haven’t seen any of these fragrances in Poland yet. January 22, 2013 at 9:41am
Victoria: Yes, they are available! The launches will surely make their way to Poland too. January 22, 2013 at 11:25am
Lucas: I hope you’re right! I’m fed up with the fact that some great perfume never made it to Poland… January 22, 2013 at 11:29am
Absolute Scentualist: One of my favorite go-to fresh and dewy rose perfumes lately is L’Occitane Rose Jardin Delice. It has a hint of tartness from cranberries, but is mostly a sweet, springtime rose that smells more pale pink or white than full on red and voluptuous. It is easy to wear, lasts quite well and really isn’t too pricy if you can find it. January 22, 2013 at 11:40am
Victoria: I will try it the next time I’m at L’Occitane. My attention was distracted by Roses 4 Reines on my last visit. January 22, 2013 at 12:14pm
paola: I like Roses 4 Reines better than Rose Jardin Delice, but my choice is Sa Majesté la Rose SL even if I wouldn’t define it as “fresh” but rich and enveloping. January 22, 2013 at 12:32pm
Victoria: True, it’s so lush. I do like that it has a metallic-citrusy twist though, because it really makes the perfume more effervescent. January 22, 2013 at 4:17pm
breathesgelatin: Fresh roses: Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Beach Roses. Also Outremer Rose for a el-cheapo but quality choice. Oh yes, and Gorilla Perfumes B Scent, which might be my favorite fresh rose (although there are so many fresh roses I haven’t tried!) January 22, 2013 at 1:52pm
Victoria: I don’t know any of these, so I look forward to trying them. Thank you! January 22, 2013 at 4:22pm
OperaFan: I’m surprised no one mentioned AG’s Rose Absolute. 😉 January 22, 2013 at 9:39pm
OperaFan: …btw, V – How do you feel about Dyptique’s Eau Rose from last year compared to these 6? January 22, 2013 at 9:43pm
Victoria: It smells so much more like a natural rose than all of these. It’s also more of a straightforward rose, whereas these 6 mix rose with something else. January 23, 2013 at 6:30am
Victoria: A huge omission on my part, especially since I love this perfume.
And by the way, did you see the mention of Rose Opera perfume just up the thread? I immediately thought of you. 🙂 January 23, 2013 at 6:28am
OperaFan: Yes, I did! With a name like that I have to look it up. There’s another rose perfume called opera by Le Jardin Retrouvee (sp?). A very beautiful and realistic (idealized) rose with a chivet-y undercurrent.
Thank for thinking of me! January 23, 2013 at 7:47am
Diva33477: love Lancome’s Mille et une Roses…but it’s discontinued ..ugh..any recommendations for a rosey ambery musky scent? January 27, 2013 at 10:00am
Cristina: Hi Victoria, one of my favorite roses is Cartier’s So Pretty which has been discontinued a while ago. Do you have any suggestions for very similar perfumes? I love rose and I smelled a lot of them but couldn’t find anything to replace it. January 27, 2013 at 12:40pm
Iliana: I’m looking the exact same thing, a substitute of Cartier’s So Pretty. For me it was just THE FRAGRANCE 🙁 November 16, 2013 at 10:04pm