Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
Serge Lutens La Myrrhe is the essence of the moment when the sunlight enters through the stained glass windows of an old church, bathing its cold stone in iridescent glow and lending a jewel-like splendor to the liturgical vestments and the vessels of the altar. The contrast between the light and the dark is what makes the fragrance one of the most intriguing compositions resulting from Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake’s partnership.
The classicism of La Myrrhe (1995) is of misleading nature as it orchestrates its accords in a modern manner. The opalescent white veil of aldehydes that unfolds in the top accord almost hints at the floral waterfalls that are about to cascade softening the chilly breeze. Yet, instead of bergamot, rose, jasmine and ylang ylang of classical aldehydic compositions, La Myrrhe’s icy aldehydes become overlaid with sweet citrus, before falling into the heart spiced with anise. ….
Like other Lutens compositions, where the main note is highlighted and exaggerated (Tubéreuse Criminelle, Cèdre, Bornéo 1834), La Myrrhe brilliantly frames the myrrh by accenting its medicinal licorice tonality with anise notes and its sweetness with honey.
The contrast between the chill of the opening burst and the bite of the spice set a stage for a series of subtle contrasting sensations folded into an elegant composition that has the cold smoothness of polished red marble. Luminosity of sweet hesperidic notes persists into the woody drydown, where its glow, while no longer having a sparkling citrusy brightness, nevertheless recalls the smell of oranges purchased from the winter markets, their exotic fragrance contrasting with the icy freshness of air. Just like the light streaming from the church windows colors the stone pillars, La Myrrhe’s glow merely illuminates its form, without softening its somber mystery.
Although haunting, La Myrrhe may not be the easiest fragrance to wear as the aldehydic burst paired with the medicinal facets of myrrh left unadorned lacks an expected warm counterpoint. Yet, this very dissonance is what keeps one’s interest while the composition slowly unfolds. Like would be expected of the majority of Serge Lutens’s compositions, its aloof elegance would suit both men and women. It is not a fragrance that has a particular seasonal designation, yet its spicy coldness is associated for me with the first snow and winter chill.
Notes include mandarin, myrrh, lotus, bitter almond, sandalwood, honey, jasmine, amber, musk, various spices, pimento. La Myrrhe is part of Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido exclusive line.
Photo: Canterbury Cathedral. From twinisles.com.
66 Comments
julien: La Myrrhe is very hard to wear and very hard to understand.
The perfect type of Lutens scent:Rejection or love.
No compromission.
But it is rather beautiful:a kind of warmth wrapped in something dark, a sorrow….
That’s why i just can’t bear this one,it makes me feel sad.
And if a perfume may create an emotion,it is a masterpiece.
Kisses,j. November 28, 2005 at 6:30am
kaie: You captured what I love about La Myrrhe. I don’t wear it often but its radiance is what I love. I smell mandarin and myrrh here and not much else. Such a beautiful parfum. November 28, 2005 at 8:13am
kaie: Sorry for the multiple comments. I kept getting an error message. November 28, 2005 at 8:43am
linda: You wrote so beautifully about La Myrrhe. Like parislondres I am bothered by the mandarin. I don’t like this note here. I purchased a bottle unsniffed and I was so disappointed. Maybe I will grow to like it.
It is nice to return here after a crazy week spent visiting my husband’s relatives. 🙂 November 28, 2005 at 9:10am
paru: Beautiful review as always. The name of this fragrance actually reminds of a play I did when I was VERY young in which I was one of the three kings in a re-enactment of the nativity scene. I wouldn’t say it traumatized me but I do remember it after all these years…. November 28, 2005 at 9:22am
julien: It is said to be that this scent is the favorite one of Lutens because the smell says so much.
My vision of warmth wrapped in coldness and darkness and sorrow is very personal,it may not be shared with others.
But as i read again the legend of Mythra,it must be true that this scent was a sad one,yet with some hope light to make it ambivalent.
This complexity is admirable…don’t you think so?
Kisses,dear.
j. November 28, 2005 at 10:14am
Denver to Paris: Thanks for yet another wonderful review. I tested this one about a month ago and wrote in my notes “fruity Chanel No. 5.” Your discussion of the aldehydes makes the whole No. 5 vibe I got fall into place. (And by coincidence, No. 5 — ETD and body cream — is my fragrance for the day, so the bit of La Myhrre on my hand sorts nicely with it.)
It’s funny that Lutens should be one of my favorite fragrance houses, considering how difficult I find most of his line to wear. I do own Rahat Loukoum, Ambre Sultan, and Datura Noir, and will buy Fumerie Turque and Cuir Mauresque the next time I’m lucky enough to find myself in Paris. But considering the fact that his line has 34 (by my count) fragrances, finding only five wearable is not an impressive statistic! But I love what Lutens attempts — and often accomplishes — with his aesthetic, and that’s the pull for me.
I’ve lurked on your blog since its inception, and should introduce myself. Just a major frag hag in Denver; favorite lines are Caron, Chanel, and Lutens. I really enjoy your blog and am so grateful that you take the time to share your insights with us, Victoria! November 28, 2005 at 11:22am
Robin: V, this is one of the few SLs I have not yet tried. It sounds lovely but possibly not my sort of thing — I will stick with my poor Miel de Bois 😉 November 28, 2005 at 12:29pm
Denver to Paris: Miel de Bois nauseates me on my skin, but I do keep trying it — and all the others — because I know it sometimes takes many tries before you have what I call that “nervous breakthrough” and suddenly “get” a fragrance. (I have samples of the whole line, so obviously I have lots of work ahead of me!) Miel de Bois is super-sweet and goes all Skippy Peanut Butter on me, somewhat in the manner of L’Artisan Bois Farine. I did get just a fleeting whiff of that menthol, medicinal note in the first few seconds of La Myrrhe; such a strange, disconcerting note, but certainly one I associate with Serge Lutens. My husband immediately caught the licorice in the drydown, which I didn’t notice until he said so. Funny what different noses detect in the same scent at the same time.
Anyway, thanks for the welcome! I always look forward to seeing what you review each day; it makes my early-morning workaday routine so much better. (Well, that and a pot of Mariage Freres tea!) November 28, 2005 at 12:32pm
linda: You are smart. 🙂 I wish I could have stayed at home too.
If I like Bois et Fruits and Bois de Violette, would I like Bois Oriental? I grew to like the cedar notes SL uses and I would like something that is spicy. November 28, 2005 at 1:02pm
Marina: V, lovely review…unfortunately La Myrrhe is the only Lutens scent that if say someone offered me a bell jar for free I wouldn’t have taken it 🙂 It was …not good on my skin. Which is ok, because there is a long long list of the other Lutens exclusives that work for me. The only other scents I am sort of “meh” about are Cuir Mauresque and Iris Silver Mist. November 28, 2005 at 8:57am
Marina: Ooops, very sorry about the double post! November 28, 2005 at 8:57am
Sisonne: Dear V, SL ist one of my favourite perfumers – if not my favourite 🙂 I don´t know La Myrrhe, but I have a wax sample of it. At the moment I´m wearing Chergui everyday – for more than 2 weeks – can you believe that 😉 ?!
I read that KM Myrrhe & Merveilles should be rather similar to La Myrrhe. I find it to be pretty soapy with a faint smell of almonds. Do you the KM scent? November 28, 2005 at 2:00pm
parislondres: Beautiful review dear V! I tried this a number of times but something about the mandarin (a note I otherwise quite enjoy) that makes me not love this fragrance and it keeps lingering….
This is possibly one of the few Lutens I would not wear. I must add that i have tried this over several years and in different seasons. Sadly it is not for me. The great thing is that there are so many other SL perfumes I adore and can be happy with. 🙂
Have a great day!! November 28, 2005 at 9:02am
Tara: I prefer KM Myrrhe et Merveilles because the mushroom smell in La Myrrhe puts me off.
As for Bois Oriental, this is my favorite of the wood quartet based on Feminite du Bois. I have all 4 but consider Bois Oriental to be essential to me, with Bois de Violette a very close second. Bois et Fruits was a bit more fruity than I would have liked. November 28, 2005 at 2:23pm
BoisdeJasmin: Julien, I think that your description of it as warmth wrapped in something dark and sad. It still explores the sweet side of myrrh, which is quite interesting. Myrrh is a cold and haunting smell, and here it is accented beautifully. Still this does not make the fragrance easy to approach. November 28, 2005 at 9:56am
BoisdeJasmin: Kaie, it is radiant, cold, yet radiant. It strikes me almost an abstract vision of a church, yet not quite. I have a bottle, and I reach for it fairly often, but everytime I note the fact that it is a difficult fragrance to wear. November 28, 2005 at 10:02am
Tara: Plum and I do not get along all that well, which is probably why I liked Bois et Fruits less than the others.
I do not think Bois Oriental is very similar to Cedre – Cedre is much more floral on me. But I look forward to hearing your comments on the side by side comparison. November 28, 2005 at 3:22pm
BoisdeJasmin: M, I can see why you do not care for La Myrrhe. It is fairly aldehydic, and if Lutens did No.5 that’s what it would be like. It is one of those fragrances from the collection that is almost an art scent, rather than a personal fragrance, although I do wear it. November 28, 2005 at 11:52am
BoisdeJasmin: M and K, no, my apologies. The system was down this morning, I gathered from the posts on the typepad help site. November 28, 2005 at 11:53am
BoisdeJasmin: Dear N, I love the fact that it is not a conventional fragrance, but like I noted above, I am always struck by the fact that it is difficult to wear. Yet, I smelled it on a friend recently, and it was such a beautiful experience. That languid licorice sweetness of myrrh and bright sunny citrus–it all melded into a beautiful scent. November 28, 2005 at 11:59am
BoisdeJasmin: L, great to see you again! I hope that your trips were not too exhausting. I took it easy this year and stayed home. After my horrible experience traveling last year during Thanksgiving weekend, I have decided not to subject myself to holiday travel difficulties.
I buy unsniffed only if the fragrance is from the house I like or created by a perfumer I admire. Serge Lutens has not disappointed me yet. However, I would never encourage anyone to buy blindly from this line. November 28, 2005 at 12:03pm
BoisdeJasmin: P, you were the myrrh bearing kind, weren’t you? I dare say that you sound like you were traumatized by this experience. 🙂 November 28, 2005 at 12:05pm
BoisdeJasmin: J, yes, it is remarkably complex, which is why I would say that it is one of the most interesting fragrances from the line. It may not easy to carry off, yet it does not detract from its unusual structure and its artistic value. I am happy with my bottle, although I need to be a certain mood for it.
I hope that Evan would not mind me quoting from his email describing the impressions of La Myrrhe, but as he noted, there is an element of darkness in it that recalls the mood captured in the following verses from the song “We Three
Kings”: Myrrh is mine, its bitter perfume; breathes a life of
gathering gloom. Sorrowing, sighing, bleeding, dying; sealed in a
stone-cold tomb.” November 28, 2005 at 12:09pm
BoisdeJasmin: Denver, welcome and thank you for sharing your thoughts! Like you, I find La Myrrhe to be reminiscent of the classical aldehydic fragrance like No.5, and I can see how they might work nicely together.
I admit that there are only a few fragrances I do not find to be wearable from Serge Lutens line, and the one that comes to mind in particular is Miel de Bois. I am still waiting for that one to grow on me. Other than this, I wear most of the fragrances. Fumerie Turque and Cuir Mauresque are also among my favourites. November 28, 2005 at 12:15pm
BoisdeJasmin: R, I would hesitate to say one way or another if you would like it or not, because it is simply too difficult to categorize. If you like myrrh and anise, you are definitely going to like it. Anise is quite pronounced here. November 28, 2005 at 12:37pm
BoisdeJasmin: D, Mariage Freres tea is one of my favourite morning treats. Today I had to rush to the office without having it, and I am looking forward to returning home and brewing a large pot.
I used to dislike anything with anise and licorice, because they reminded of cold medicine I took as a child. However, at one point, my tastes experienced a turn around, and now I love anisic notes. So, perhaps you and I might grow to like Miel de Bois at some point. 🙂 November 28, 2005 at 12:41pm
Tania: Have not yet smelled this one, but it sounds fascinating. I have no idea what myrrh smells like, unadorned, and now I’m very curious, since I’m now totally familiar with its erstwhile partner, frankincense. November 28, 2005 at 1:27pm
BoisdeJasmin: L, my work also was the reason I did not travel. So, there was no any farsighted planning on my side.
I like Bois Oriental, although if you have Bois et Fruits, I would say that it might strike you as not particularly essential. For a spicy woodsy fragrance from Lutens line, I would recommend Douce Amere (absinthe note is very nice here), Arabie (lots of dried fruits) and Un Bois Vanille (well, vanilla, rather than hot spice, but very well-done). November 28, 2005 at 1:57pm
BoisdeJasmin: T, the first time I smelled myrrh was a bit shocked, as I expected either a dark resinous smell or a bright piney fragrance of frankincense. Myrrh smells like a non-spicy licorice or anise with a medicinal undertone. There is a quality to it that makes me think of freshly sliced white mushrooms. Smelling it made me realize why it is such a successful pairing with frankincense. Its silky, delicately soapy quality would smooth out the roughness of frankincense and accent its sweetness. La Myrrhe is a great tribute to this amazing note. November 28, 2005 at 2:01pm
BoisdeJasmin: Dear C, oh, I can relate! It is one of my favourites too. Unfortunately I find that La Myrrhe is not rendered that well in the wax sample, because all I get from the wax samples are the aldehydes. I have tried the KM scent, however I do not like it as much as La Myrrhe. It is much more soapy on my skin and not as complex. November 28, 2005 at 2:03pm
BoisdeJasmin: T, I love the entire Boix series, and I also have all four (and Feminite du Bois). Bois de Violette is my favourite because of its interesting pairing of violet and cedar, and since I like dark plummy notes, Bois et Fruits is quite wonderful as well. Bois Oriental unfortunately did not live up to my expectations, but I like it nevertheless. Someone once told me that they found Bois Oriental to be similar to Cedre, and I have been planning for a while to do a side by side comparison. Cedre is another favourite. November 28, 2005 at 2:36pm
Tania: Fascinating description! I have smelled Keiko Mecheri’s myrrh scent Myrrh et Merveilles (or something like that) but found it cloying. It didn’t smell anything like what you describe. I’ll keep an eye out for myrrh scented things.
As for P’s turn as one of the wise men bearing myrrh, I must say, I always thought that was a weird present to give to a baby. November 28, 2005 at 2:50pm
BoisdeJasmin: La Myrrhe is definitely not cloying, although there is a silky sweetness that is naturally present in myrrh. If you are at Whole Foods, I am sure that they might have some myrrh EO. Of course, it is likely to strike you as very potent straight from the bottle. The best thing is to apply some on a strip of paper and stick into the Monclin, although this procedure might be difficult to undertake at the store. 🙂 November 28, 2005 at 2:57pm
marchlion: I’m also a daily visitor but have never commented before. I am waiting right now for my SL sample of La Myrrhe to arrive — even more so now that you’ve reviewed it! I only wanted to add that my initial reaction to the SL line was negative (too heavy, too odd, just too much). Then one day I sprayed on two testers from my rejects pile…and fell in love. I think the key for me is patience; these scents need several hours to develop on skin, rather than being judged in the first few minutes or even the first hour. Sampling SL in a store with test strips is punishment — like trying to eat nine meals at once. November 28, 2005 at 10:03pm
marchlion: More thoughts (please forgive me): I have never encountered a fragrance line that was less suited for browsing in a store. Each SL fragrance is like a long journey, and trying to decide if you like it while you’re standing there in the boutique is like trying to decide whether a trans-continental trip was worth it while you’re still at the airport waiting to depart. My solution is to cadge the spray samples from the SA, take them home, and try them one at a time, giving it the entire day. November 28, 2005 at 10:21pm
carmencanada: I find myself lurking around La Myrrhe these days. It is the least used up of my SL’s… I think it’s the coldness of the scent that makes me draw away from actually wearing it though I sniff it from time to time. Perhaps it’s the mandarin note?
And about Mariage Frères, do try “La Route du Temps” if you haven’t already. It’s green tea with sweet ginger and it’s just a total booster, apart from tasting delicious. November 28, 2005 at 5:51pm
Denver to Paris: Marchlion, the only worse way to try Serge Lutens on test strips all at once is to do it at the Palais Royale, in fractured Franglish, while the thin, beautiful, elegant proprietress stands silently behind the counter watching your every sniff, and you get so intimidated that you (1) don’t buy anything and (2) leave the store bidding her a flustered “adios” rather than “au revoir.”
NOT that that happened to ME, of course. :oP But if it HAD, I’m sure she would’ve thought I was retarded. November 28, 2005 at 11:14pm
Evan: (As I write this I’m burning some myrrh in my censer and have some “La Myrrhe” on my hand, like mood music for the nose!)
La Myrrhe is a strange and lovely perfume, daringly using myrrh which, by smell and association and history, would not be on the top of the to-do list of lesser perfumers. I’m glad that you highlighted the bright aldehydic opening of La Myrrhe, V, as I haven’t seen anyone speak of that quality elsewhere. Licorice is how most people would describe the smell of myrrh, but you’re right that it is a smooth, licorice that fades in at the beginning and fades out at the end.
The word “myrrh” has its root in Hebrew, mōr, which means “bitter”. I’m glad you quoted that verse from “We Three Kings”, as it alludes to myrrh’s funereal past; myrrh was used as a major component of embalming ointments In Egyptian and later cultures. This makes sense, as myrrh resin is bacteriostatic and would have helped stave off decay, as well as being very effective at masking the odor of the body (the sweet smell of the decay of organic matter has a strange companion in the sweet darkness of myrrh). Myrrh was also burned during Roman cremations to mask the smell of the burning body. All these associations would have been known to early Christians who would have recognized that the gift of myrrh foretold the eventual death of the Christ.
I’m happily melancholic, as I like to say; I prefer autumn and the cold brightness of winter to summer sunshine and my perfume preferences seem to reflect my aesthetic: Lutens, Caron (“Charon”, the mythical boatman to the land of the dead? Is that what the name references?), even the hint of decay in Diorissimo and La Parfum de Therese. I like perfume (and other artwork) to reflect all of life, its brightness and darkness, its beginning and ending, and La Myrrhe seems to do this perfectly. November 28, 2005 at 6:20pm
BoisdeJasmin: Tara, yes, I remembered Cedre as more floral, however I will need to compare side by side. November 28, 2005 at 8:30pm
BoisdeJasmin: D, I think that it is the aldehydic aspect that strikes you as cold. The mandarin tends to be sweet and light. I find myself being drawn to its unusual beauty, and its very aloofness is what makes me want to explore and understand La Myrrhe.
I have never tried La Route du Temps, however I will. Ginger and green tea sounds like a perfect combination. November 28, 2005 at 8:33pm
BoisdeJasmin: Evan, thank you for such a terrific and informative post. I really enjoyed reading your impressions of La Myrrhe and especially its origins and uses. The coldness of myrrh is what makes it a difficult note to employ. And here it is accented by chilly aldehydes! The result is outstanding, if not exactly easy to approach. As I noted above, this is what appeals to me in La Myrrhe. It never fails to surprise me.
I do wonder if Caron takes its name from Charon. This would make for a wonderfully dark and intriguing reference. November 28, 2005 at 8:42pm
BoisdeJasmin: Marchlion, welcome! It is always a pleasure to exchange thoughts on perfume.
I cannot agree more that it is very difficult to select a perfume as complex as that by Serge Lutens merely via a scent strip. There are fragrances in the line I can explore and discover something new each time.
I hope that you will like La Myrrhe. Give it a chance to develop, however, because it changes from its chilly aldehydic opening to a beautiful myrrh accord touched with honey and anise. November 28, 2005 at 10:47pm
Miriam: I’m intrigued by J’s comments about the mournfulness of this scent. I think J means Myrrha and not Myrtha– the story of how Myrrh came about in Ovid’s Metamorphoses is a very sad story of incest and suicide. The maiden Myrrha is basically seduced by her father. It might also be helpful to know that Myrrh was associated with death in the ancient world– both in ancient Greece and also Mesopotamia and Egypt. It was one of the herbs used for enbalming corpses. November 29, 2005 at 12:08pm
Sisonne: V, thank you for telling me that the wax sample doesn´t do La Myrrhe justice – I had the same experience already with Borneo 1834: the wax sample smelled very masculine, the liquid scent is much softer & warmer, pretty delicious & an absolute must-have for me 🙂 November 29, 2005 at 1:33pm
Tara: What I do when I sample in the Palais Royal store is to ask for the SA to dab one scent on each arm, then thank her and say that I am going to go sit and let it develop while I enjoy the gardens in the courtyard. They seem to understand and accept that completely – I truly don’t think they expect you to sniff it for 2 minutes and then plunk down 100 euros for a bottle. I think it actually shows more respect for the perfumer’s art to test slowly, thoughtfully and repeatedly. November 29, 2005 at 2:43pm
BoisdeJasmin: Miriam, such a sad and dark story, in addition to other mournful references in regards to myrrh. Its smell does indeed strike you as melancholy, and yet it is that appeal that La Myrrhe holds for me. I invision walking through the royal burial places of St. Denis whenever I wear it. November 29, 2005 at 3:49pm
BoisdeJasmin: C, oh, yes! La Myrrhe should be sampled in the liquid form, as is Borneo 1834. It is simply not captured that well in the wax. Perhaps, you might like La Myrrhe. I highly recommend trying it. November 29, 2005 at 3:51pm
BoisdeJasmin: Tara, that is the best method. I have done so myself a number of times at various stores. At any rate, it takes a lot to intimidate me. 🙂 Academia toughens you up, as I have found. November 29, 2005 at 3:52pm
Denver to Paris: I’ve worked with lawyers for almost 20 years; I’m not easily intimidated either. But that woman in Serge Luten’s boutique absolutely made me quake. I feel ashamed that my French isn’t a lot better, which is a really stupid thing because if I were in, say, Germany, I wouldn’t feel embarrassed or apologetic that my German is subpar. It’s a stupid hangup I have about the French. I admit it. It’s really stupid, especially since my experiences with the French both here and abroad have been almost unfailingly lovely. November 29, 2005 at 9:08pm
BoisdeJasmin: D, oh, I can actually understand that! I have had many friends who told me exactly the same thing, so you are not alone. I think that I have always been too transfixed by SL fragrances to pay attention to the sales associates. Maybe, if I would, I might quake too. 🙂 November 29, 2005 at 9:14pm
Denver to Paris: V, :o) November 30, 2005 at 8:47am
Anya: OK. Strap yourselves in. Ahem. I’m not going to read the comments — just plug mine in here. V writes with such passion, such a classical nod to the notes and drydown, etc., nothing could be improved upon there.
I received a sample of this perfume the other day. Perhaps because I’m a bit older than many here, I have a different olfactory memory of certain scents that never made it historically, i.e. such as those that came from the big houses, can be found vintage on Ebay, etc., to help one experience them nowadays.
That said, I can’t remember the name of the scent this reminds me of. I’m no Luca Turin when it comes to being able to cite the name and year of a release. But La Myrrhe reminds me of a perfume that came with something like Barbie’s House, or was a drugstore little girl’s fume from the 60’s or so.
I get no medicinal, no myrrh, just the supersweet aldehydes and pink girlie vibe.
It really takes me back. I like it, and I could only wear it for the most frivolous daytime event.
Unless I got a sample that was *really, really* mislabeled. The giveaway is the color. A rosy Barbie sunset. Is this it?
I’m going to take a break and have dinner and come back and read everyone’s comments, and if they’re in line with V’s review, I have to confirm that I am out of step with the mainstream perfumery universe ;-), stuck in the past with memories of silly scents. It did not evolve on my skin, since the synthetics are rather fixed. It just faded, and nicely, just like Barbie would want it — no harsh base note ever appeared to rock the Barbie universe.
barbie sunset — sipping a Mai Tai, wearing a halter top and shorts and flirting with a cute guy. That’s what this perfume is to me! December 4, 2005 at 4:57pm
BoisdeJasmin: Wow! I normally do not get surprised by other’s reactions, but this is the first time I actually am. La Myrrhe is as far from pink girly fragrance as anything I have tried. Unless they also make “Barbie in the Crypt.” 🙂 The aldehydes are there, but nothing strikes me as particularly sweet, neither on my skin, nor on the strip. On the strip, I notice more almond than what becomes prominent on my skin. However, I agree that it does not evolve much. Once the aldehydes subside, the rest of the composition remains panoramic.
I love reading your impressions, Anya! You always manage to find the most unusual details in fragrance. December 4, 2005 at 6:09pm
Anya: Miami Barbie reporting in, V. Just to double check: it does have the rosy color? I’m thinking maybe the sample got mixed up/
I’ve just finished dinner, read everyone’s comments, and I’m shocked at how I am about 180° from everyone else’s impression of this juice. I sure did smell almond, a candied Jordan almond, not a bitter almond, so it probably is the right sample. I had my elderly mother and a neighbor who was a guest for dinner smell it on my skin. I told them: sniff this and tell me if it’s either A or B, using my take on it (A), and everyone here’s (B). They choose A.
I really don’t like Myrrh, the resin, or oil, and I didn’t detect it here! Of course, that could be the sign of a great perfumer, able to transmute certain notes, so that they become something else again. However, to no reflect the name of the juice is odd, to me. What everyone is defining as mandarin, and no doubt it is, reminds me more of an organic Clementine from India, supersweet. I use it in an accord I’m perfecting that mimics the Pineapple Guava, Feijoa, if you’re familiar with that. Very, very sweet!
“Barbie in the Crypt”, lol. So strange, the different takes!
Glad I’m a first at something, V, surprising people is good. I, myself, am shocked, really, by the disconnect between everyone else and me, but it’s a good disconnect, as I know I have to reflect on it, and somehow I will find the significance. To me, life is about learning more about the fragrances and how people perceive them, and this sure is a learning experience! December 4, 2005 at 7:03pm
BoisdeJasmin: It sounds like you definitely have the same fragrance, but your perception of it is completely different. Which makes it fun to hear what you think. I recall that you also found candy-sweet notes in Une Rose, which is not at all how I perceived it. Perhaps, the sweetness is amplified on your skin, or you have a lower sweetness tolerance than I do, for instance. At any rate, I still do not find La Myrrhe sweet, however if one is very sensitive to sweet notes, perhaps they might. La Myrrhe is sweeter on the strip, than on my skin, but not to the extent that I would call it supersweet. I am a little bit surprised you do not get any myrrh from this, which is very obvious to me almost from the beginning. However, all of this is what makes these discussions fascinating, especially since many of these impressions are so personal! I love talking about it. December 4, 2005 at 8:23pm
Cait: I am writing this comment after reading your review of VIP Room because I sense leather in this scent and I wonder if you smell it too. It reminds me of Caron En Avion, and I also associate it with a pudeur and institutional cleanser scent, like a coverup to something truly fecal. I know you love this and don’t mean to dis it, but what do you think of my impression? December 9, 2005 at 1:28am
BoisdeJasmin: Cait, I am sure that you are right. I will pay more attention the next time I wear it. On the strip, there is a note that is very tangy, almost like tanned leather (minus the smoky part), however I do not think I noticed it on the skin whenever I wore it. I will pay more attention the next I wear it. December 9, 2005 at 2:30am
Dusan: Oh, Vika, how I love La Myrrhe! I know I’ve already told you that, but its haunting beauty takes my breath away every time I put on a smidge of my wax sample. Can’t imagine how gorgeous it must be in liquid form. And yes, I’m wretched – hoping to dislike at least two out of seven samples, I ended up loving or admiring all of them, including Un Lys which, however, is too feminine for me. But Rose de Nuit I simply adore, as I do TC and MM!
Sorely miffed that I was not given the entire Le Petit Livre, I must now ask you, my dear SL adviser ;-), to help me choose my next bell jar as FT proved to be instant love – I cannot get enough of it, it is THAT addictive! (I am still haunted by your description of Chergui and am also considering something from Les Boix range, you suggested Bois Oriental, but I havent got a clue as to how it smells).
Hope I’m not boring you with my ranting and wailing 🙂 , I just love sharing my thoughts with you 🙂
Hugs November 3, 2006 at 11:14pm
BoisdeJasmin: Dusan, I love sharing thoughts with you and to hear yours in return. You should go for Chergui next, I just see your name on it. It is sweeter than other Lutens you have tried though. On the other hand, Bois Oriental is gorgeous. Perhaps, it is time for me to review it! November 3, 2006 at 11:39pm
Dusan: You are such a sweetie! LOL at my name being all over Chergui – you are absolutely right! And yes, do review Bois Oriental, pleeease, I can’t wait to read your thoughts! Thank you so much, Vika!
Hugs November 4, 2006 at 8:14am
ruxandra: I LOVE this perfume!I also love Datura Noir,Deuce Amere,Rahat Loukoum,Rose de Nuit,Mandarine Mandarin.I would like to try Chergui and Bois et Fruits.Tubereuse Criminelle is very interesting!And so it is Fumerie Turque.What am I going to do?…I think I love them all,or most of them…Help! January 7, 2007 at 2:09pm
BoisdeJasmin: Ah, that is a familiar problem! 🙂 I feel just like you and I cannot choose. Maybe, buying a few decants on Ebay might be a good idea? I know that Patty of Perfumeposse (link on the left sidebar) sells them (her Ebay name is FragrantFlipperies). This would be a good way to have a little bit of each. Unless you are ready to splurge on large bottles of everything! 🙂 January 8, 2007 at 2:11pm
Iryna: I just wanted to add that La Myrrah to me smells exactly the way Anya described it – super sweet aldehydic concoction. And it’s So unique. In grandeur I can only compare it to Fabourg 24, both are very posh, very sofisticated. July 18, 2015 at 6:01pm
cookie queen: An exquisite perfume to wear whilst reading. It’s a masterpiece. Dabbed. CQ xxx July 29, 2016 at 3:28pm
Victoria: It is! Such a unique perfume. July 30, 2016 at 4:38am