Recommend Me a Perfume : November 2021

Our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread is open this week. You can use this space to find perfume recommendations, to share your discoveries and favorite scents, and to ask any questions about scents, aromas and flavors. Or you can just tell us what perfume you are wearing!

How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!

To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.

Photography by Bois de Jasmin

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98 Comments

  • LadyShine: First, thank you for your blog and sharing your expertise! I love green and floral scents (Diorissimo, Muguet des Bois, Mitsouko,) as well as light, bright scents like Eternity, and deep sultry 24 Faubourg, Dolce Vita, Estee Lauder Intense Pleasure. Please recommend other similar scents, that do not have musk as a dry down. I am looking for more green scents. It seems most new parfums do… November 22, 2021 at 8:52am Reply

    • Safran: Hi, I love green scents and I can’t wear musk (with 2 or 3 exceptions) either. 2 wonderful green scents are from the Chanel exclusive line, Bel Respiro and La Pausa. They have a very classic feel too, like the ones you already love. On the fresh and green/floral side you can check out the Parco Palladiano line from Bottega Veneta, there are a few beauties like Lauro, Quadrifoglio, Cipresso and Olivo. Another one is Ninfeo Mio by Annick Goutal, green-fresh, I love it in warm weather. Good luck! Cheers Safran November 22, 2021 at 9:36am Reply

    • Alabaster Jet: What about the old 1990 classic (and scandalously cheap) Cabotine de Gres? Archetypal green floral. It has musk listed as a base note (among many other base notes) but not so that you’d notice. From your list of favourites, you would almost certainly love it, and if not, you are out a whole $15 or $20 USD. November 22, 2021 at 10:25am Reply

    • Frances: Hello LadyShine,

      I also enjoy very much Mitsouko and Eternity and recently I fell in love with a beautiful green fragrance: Jean Louis Scherrer by Jean Louis Scherrer. Victoria wrote a review about it by the way. To my surprise musk is listed in the base notes (among oakmoss, vetiver, cedar, civet, sandalwood, amber and vanilla) but I didn’t notice it. If by “a musk dry down” you mean a laundry headache inducing one, you won’t find such thing in Scherrer, at least not to my nose.

      Another beautiful option is Givenchy III a classic still in production nowdays. It shares similarities with Scherrer but there’s no musk in the base (instead, alongside oakmoss and vetiver, you will find patchouli).

      Hope this helps! November 22, 2021 at 1:11pm Reply

      • Alityke: Where can I get the Givenchy III currently produced please? November 23, 2021 at 4:36am Reply

        • frances: Hello Alityke,

          In France it is easy to find Givenchy III at Sephora for instance and at any beauty store. Internationally speaking, I guess the best is to look at Givenchy official website: Givenchy Beauty, they carry it. November 23, 2021 at 7:44am Reply

        • Cornelia Blimber: hallo Alitique,
          Parfumerie Marjo in Amsterdam carries Givenchy III edt. November 23, 2021 at 7:56am Reply

        • Cassieflower: Hi Alityke
          Not sure where you are but the UK site Allbeauty has it. It is the current formulation. November 23, 2021 at 9:46am Reply

          • Alityke: Thank you all. Bottle bought November 23, 2021 at 4:22pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: L’Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal is a beautiful green floral (rose and iris) with a sandalwood dry down. It’s similar to Chanel No. 19 but warmer and softer.

      Two perfumes I suggest for Diorissimo lovers–though nothing comes close–are Lys Mediterranee (it does have musk in it but not the killer musk that I have problems with) and Love and Tears by Killian (a beautiful green jasmine that has been unfortunately discontinued). These are both “radiant florals” like Diorissimo.

      I don’t think of Mitsouko as a green floral. It’s typically classified as a chypre. Can you say what it is about that one in particular that you love? (Not that it isn’t totally lovable.) If so, I can think of something in the same ballpark. November 22, 2021 at 1:37pm Reply

    • Julia: Hi LadyShine, you might enjoy One Love by Jean Louis Scherrer which is a crisp green floral centered around magnolia, mimosa and gauzy iris. November 22, 2021 at 1:40pm Reply

    • Aurora: Lots of great recommendations already. Maybe also Chamade and its cousin Annick Goutal Grand Amour. November 22, 2021 at 1:44pm Reply

      • Nina: Chamade, of course! How could I forget. I love this one. November 22, 2021 at 10:07pm Reply

    • Shivani: Hello! Tokyo Bloom by the Different Company is fresh green scent. I love Chanel No. 19 but I get a lot of musk and leather in the drydown so you may not like it. November 23, 2021 at 2:28am Reply

    • Tamasin: I think you would love Tiare By ORmonde Jayne. I t ticks all your boxes as well as some more. It’s truly magnificent! November 30, 2021 at 5:57am Reply

  • Muireann: Hello all, this thread has been so helpful for me in the past. I am mourning the loss of Frédéric Malle’s Dries Van Noten – it was an exceptional warm and rich, rounded modern sandalwood scent with vanilla and soft spicy notes, and a nice ambery drydown. I cannot find any decent replacement. I tried Matiere Premiere’s Santal Austral and was disappointed – it was thin, screechy and linear. If anyone has any suggestions, I’d be very grateful! November 22, 2021 at 9:30am Reply

    • Safran: Hi, if I remember correctly, the Dries van Noten FM is a rather light and not so sweet Sandalwood Scent, so I’d suggest Santal Massoïa from the Hermes Hermessence line or Lancome Santal Kardamon. Or Sandalwood Temple from Sana Jardin, but that is a bit stronger than the other two. Good luck with your search! Cheers Safran November 22, 2021 at 9:43am Reply

      • Karina: Second Santal Massoia. Beautiful one and has a slight gourmand-y touch like the Dries.

        Sandalwood Temple and Santal Kardamon both have that same Sandalwood note as Dries. However I find Temple to be the gentler one and perhaps closer to the Dries. Santal Kardamon is a bit a of projection beast to my nose.

        Have you tried Milky Musk? It’s quite linear – I really enjoy it. November 23, 2021 at 7:45am Reply

    • Karen A: For a beautiful, elegant take on sandalwood Chanel’s Bois des Iles might work. The extrait wears close. November 22, 2021 at 9:59am Reply

      • Nina Z: I second this one. My favorite sandalwood. Not as sweet as the Dries, but has some spiciness to it. November 22, 2021 at 11:03am Reply

      • GinaP: I second Bois des Isles. My first thought! It’s beyond beautiful…. November 22, 2021 at 11:20am Reply

    • Alabaster Jet: You may enjoy Serge Lutens Santal Blanc, or Santal Majuscule. November 22, 2021 at 10:14am Reply

      • Shivani: I love Santal Majuscule, but on me its more of a rose scent rather like Tom Ford’s Cafe Rose. For days when I feel like sandalwood, I would probably go for Samsara or Bois des Iles. I really want to try Santal de Mysore by Serge Lutens. November 23, 2021 at 2:34am Reply

    • rickyrebarco: Diptyque’s Tam Dao is also a nice softer sandalwood scent. November 22, 2021 at 10:15am Reply

    • Cassieflower: Have you tried Mona di Orio Santal Nabataea? Rich and a bit spicy. November 22, 2021 at 12:27pm Reply

    • Muireann: Thanks everyone for your suggestions – I hope to track down some samples and try these in the near future! November 22, 2021 at 12:30pm Reply

    • Anu: Hello Muireann: I would also suggest Egoiste Chanel. It’s marketed as a masculine, but I think it’s very unisex and a lovely sandalwood with vanilla and spice nuance. November 22, 2021 at 2:00pm Reply

      • Nina Z: Good idea! November 22, 2021 at 10:08pm Reply

  • Hannah: I love Hermes Musc Pallida, I use it very sparingly given its cost. It would be wonderful to get a recommendation for a similar perfume that perhaps isn’t quite so costly. Thanks November 22, 2021 at 10:21am Reply

    • Muireann: Hi Hannah, have you tried Glossier You? It is essentially an iris-musk accord, very intimate – like a soft powdery skin scent. However, if you are sensitive to/dislike ambroxan, maybe it’s best to avoid – there is a lot of it in there.
      Another is Atelier Cologne Silver Iris – it has more going on, but as with all AC scents, it is light. Think fruity notes (cassis and citrus), with a sweet ambery base, but the musky-iris accord is the crux of this scent. It is a little lipstick-y, but overall is more cohesive than it sounds! Hope this helps a little 🙂 November 22, 2021 at 6:27pm Reply

      • Hannah: Thank you for the recommendations, I will look into your suggestions. Much appreciated. November 22, 2021 at 11:11pm Reply

    • OnWingsofSaffron: Hi Hannah, don’t know where you live but the two perfume oils in the Hermessence line (Cardamusc and Musc pallida) are both not available anymore in the German Hermès online shop. Yet, I just checked: in France (online shop) they still seem to be available for 350 Euros (!). Indeed very, very pricey.
      I got Cardamusc on eBay for a good price. It is very simple: white musc, cardamom and vanilla: extremely cuddly, yummy and comforting! Still, an obscenely steep price for a regressive delight. November 24, 2021 at 4:05pm Reply

  • Lari: I’m wondering about thecreformikation lgr Lolita Lempicka. Really enjoy the original with anise/licorice notes. Just found out when I went to order ” reformulated”. Not generally a good sign. Has anyone tried it? Thanks. November 22, 2021 at 11:39am Reply

    • Muireann: Hi Lari, I love the original, and have smelled the new “Lolita Lempicka Original” – it is a valiant attempt at recreating the actual original LL, but I felt that something was missing. Have you tried Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire? It is similar – in my opinion, less good than the LL you (and I) know and love, but I like it better than the reformulation of LL. Also, something called Mini Sexy was recommended to me as a good dupe for the original, but I haven’t smelled this. Hope this is somewhat helpful! November 22, 2021 at 12:48pm Reply

      • Lari: Thank you Muireann. I will definitely try to access a sniff. Always generous helpful info here. November 22, 2021 at 2:04pm Reply

  • Lari: I’m wondering about the reformulation of Lolita Lempicka. Really enjoy the original with anise/licorice notes. Just found out when I went to order ” reformulated”. Not generally a good sign. Has anyone tried it? Thanks. November 22, 2021 at 11:40am Reply

  • KarenM: My favorites are all long discontinued, if not entirely, then in their original or vintage formulations. They are Après L’Ondée, Detchema, and Le Dix. If anyone knows a modern, complex, aldehydic floral similar to any of these, please suggest it? I strongly prefer extraits de parfume. Thanks for any suggestions. November 22, 2021 at 11:56am Reply

    • Cassieflower: Hi Karen
      Frederic Malle Superstitious is a modern aldehydic floral but slightly old school. Hermes Calèche Soie is another good one. November 22, 2021 at 12:31pm Reply

      • KarenM: Thanks, I don’t know either, and will try to find a sample. November 22, 2021 at 12:56pm Reply

      • Lari: Never tried Calechd Soie but savor my 1/2 empty bottle of Caleche. November 22, 2021 at 6:22pm Reply

    • Muireann: Hi Karen, I second FM Superstitious – I have it and adore it. I would add to the list Chanel No 22 – it is my favourite of the Les Exclusifs, and is a beautiful aldehylic floral, with jasmine, iris and rose most prominent to my nose. The drydown is yellow floral. It is softer than No 5, but still rich and smooth. Honorable mention: Estée Lauder White Linen ticks the boxes. Both come in parfum form too 🙂 November 22, 2021 at 1:06pm Reply

      • KarenM: I wear Chanel 19 and 22, but my Chanel favorites are Bois des Isles and Cuir de Russie. Aparently.a richer drydown works better with my skin, contrary to A l’O and Le Dix, and I do.like White Linen. I also love the reissue of Givenchy III and Dior’s briefly offered Remember Me among bright floral EDPs. I’m headed to Lyon for a few days (e.g. Paravent), where I will smell some of the newer offerings. I know what I long for are ingredients not in use any more. They’re only available in gift-of-the-gods well-preserved vintage finds. I suppose I’ll know it when I smell it, and will hope whatever it is sustains sales for a while. Thank you again for your suggestions. November 22, 2021 at 5:40pm Reply

        • Muireann: I understand the struggle – I am a vintage Mitsouko lover, and the current formulation is a shadow of its former self. With regard to your original question: another scent that comes to mind is Amouage Dia Woman, also Gold Woman to a lesser extent (Dia is brighter and airier, and the aldehydes shine more, in my opinion. Gold is more opulent and dense). At the other end of the price spectrum – Lady Stetson is worth a try, especially if you happen to be US-based. November 22, 2021 at 6:11pm Reply

          • OnWingsofSaffron: Ebay (Europe/Germany) is absolutely full of vintage Mitsouko: you can buy really old editions, and the thing is: nobody buys them, no one wants them! November 24, 2021 at 3:43pm Reply

            • OnWingsofSaffron: … saying that as a Mitsouko adorer: I have all versions from EdC, EdT to extrait. November 24, 2021 at 3:44pm Reply

    • Nina Zolotow: Definitely Chanel No. 22. It is so beautiful! And it is available in extrait. November 22, 2021 at 1:38pm Reply

    • Ina: Hi Karen,

      I find Hiram Green Vivacious to be somewhat similar to the most recent vintage EDT (the one in the bee bottle) of Apres L’Ondee. Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver is supposedly inspired by AL’O, it’s a lovely, if fleeting heliotrope scent. November 23, 2021 at 8:18pm Reply

  • Julia: Hello everybody! I’ve been mourning the loss of Theorema by Feni and wanted to ask if anybody knows something spicy, but transparent and light in the same style worth sampling. As a lover of soft chypres and green florals, woody-ambery fragrances are usually not really my cup of tea – too overwhelming -, but as soon as the temperature drops, I feel there’s something missing in my perfume wardrobe… November 22, 2021 at 1:27pm Reply

    • Nina Z: Maybe Alahine by Teo Cabanel? November 22, 2021 at 10:12pm Reply

    • Fazal: have you tried caron parfum sacre. If you want lighter version, maybe EDT is better though I like edp more. November 23, 2021 at 2:50am Reply

    • Tati: Hi Julia, I also love Theorema and am hoarding a few bottles. A couple of perfumes that I find in the same vein: Elixir Des Merveilles by Hermes and Masque Milano’s Tango. November 23, 2021 at 2:55am Reply

    • Julia: Thanks a lot for your help! I can’t wait to try Alahine and Tango which are new to me and revisit Elixir des Merveilles. I know Parfum Sacre quite well and do like but don’t love it. Maybe a bit too rosy for me. I’ll try to get my hands on the EdT anyway. November 24, 2021 at 10:49am Reply

  • Aynur: Can anyone recommend a replacement for Annick Goutal’s Les Nuits d’Hadrien? I have tried layering Laboratorio Olfattivo’s Mandarino over Mandragore Pourpre, Iskander, Bois d’Hadrien, and even layering citruses over Aromatics Elixir. Nothing comes close, and it was my signature perfume. November 23, 2021 at 2:16am Reply

    • Sebastian: Perhaps Acqua Viva (Profumum Roma) is something you might try. I don’t really recall its smell, but a note I made at the time says it was like a stronger, more durable and regrettably sweeter version of Eau d’Hadrien. November 23, 2021 at 3:56am Reply

    • Sariah: Les Nuits is still easy to find online, has it been reformulated not to your liking? I like it too, will try to think of something similar. November 24, 2021 at 9:10pm Reply

  • Flo: Hello! I’m looking to gift my college age son a new cologne. He currently wears and really enjoys Aqua de Gio. This has been a fantastic starter fragrance for him. I’ll like to give him another to expand his options and prefer not to break the bank. Any suggestions are appreciated! Thank you November 24, 2021 at 3:21pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Flo: I answered in error at the end, please see my post below for some ideas. November 26, 2021 at 10:14am Reply

    • Klaas: Hey Flo, Aqua di Gio is a classic fresh scent, so maybe look for something similar? Aurora has given some great options already, I would like to add Chanel Pour Monsieur (a classic citrus chypre), Encre Noir (a resinous vetiver, very cheap on discounter sites lately!) and Hermès Voyage….Grey Vétiver by Tom Ford is another classy vétiver, much in the style of Guerlain Vetiver but a bit cheaper if I remember well.

      On a completely different page, and loved by many college boys, is Dior Homme. There are many flankers, ask for the classic version, now called ‘original’ I think. Iris and chocolate……Gaultier Le Mâle is also quite flamboyant and very, very strong but if he can pull it off he’ll turn quite a few heads….

      Good luck! November 28, 2021 at 1:19pm Reply

      • Flo: Hi Klaas,
        Thank you so much for your reply. I plan to make a list and try to seek some out for a sniff and look at reviews for those I can’t sample. I’m super intrigued about the Iris and chocolate. He’s currently wearing one of many samples I gave him and has requested a bottle however the label has rubbed off!! Now I’m wondering if perhaps it was Dior Homme! I must investigate! Best to you, Flo November 28, 2021 at 11:09pm Reply

        • Klaas: May I suggest bringing him along when you shop? It will somewhat ruin the surprise, but hoe much fun it will be to sample together and to then buy the one he prefers……

          I hope you find something he likes! Enjoy 😉 November 29, 2021 at 11:06am Reply

          • Flo: Yes! That is my hope! Thanks 😁 November 29, 2021 at 5:55pm Reply

  • Eileen: Hi! I am wondering what can be some woody notes or accords that are elegant and thin but has a strong soft body, and meybe some ideas of fragrances as such and ones that combine such woody notes with some foresty fruits like blackberries or pine trees. I don’t know if it is even possible though:) thanks in advance November 25, 2021 at 3:02am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Eileen: I can recommend two woody, piney scents, Goutal Nuit Etoilée like a walk in a deep forest and Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles, a piney incense with some fruits although not blackberry I think. In fact you might want to check the Bois series by Lutens, Feminité du Bois, Bois et fruits… etc, the wood they feature is cedar so it is if you find that you like this wood. I was recommending Eau des Baux to Flo and it’s another resinous/conifer perfume that you might try, unisex imo, I wear it every winter. November 26, 2021 at 10:32am Reply

    • irem: Hi Eileen, I think that Feminité du Bois, as Aurora wisely suggests is an excellent suggestion. No pine trees not blackberries, and you might not even like it, but it is an excellent exploration of the idea of a “forrest”. I would also add Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman as another perfume that explores the idea of forest, this time a magic forrest based on the coniferous hemlock. November 29, 2021 at 11:02am Reply

    • Ugo: Hello, I would love a substitute for Nuit de Noël de Caron. Any suggestion? November 29, 2021 at 11:17am Reply

      • Aurora: Hello Ugo: I’m so sorry that I never got to try Nuit de Noël but maybe another incense perfume like Etro Messe de Minuit it Comme des Garçons Avignon might give you a similar feel. December 2, 2021 at 1:30am Reply

  • Aurora: Hello Flo: Caron pour un Homme is a very good classic, unique, lavender, vanilla and amber and it is very affordable, also l’Occitane Eau des Baux is great in winter, piney and resinous, very original and good value, and Terre d’Hermes is loved by many, citrussy, mineral and earthy and woody in the drydown, somewhat pricier but the smaller sizes are still affordable, also Guerlain Vetiver might be another good option.

    Hope this will help you a little bit, you could also repost next month, you would get more answers. November 26, 2021 at 10:12am Reply

    • Flo: Hi Aurora,
      Thank you so much for the thoughtful suggestions! I just recently picked up a sample of the Hermes for him and am hoping he likes it (it’s so lovely)! I will check out your other recs as well. Take care, Flo November 26, 2021 at 12:57pm Reply

  • Alexandra: Has anyone tried Hermes H24? I received a sample of it with a makeup purchase, and I’m trying to make sense of it. I haven’t smelled many fougeres in the past, so I don’t have a good frame of reference. For those more knowledgeable than I am, do you find Hermes H24 to be a classic fougere? Do you consider it to be well done? I’m really having trouble picking out the notes: so far, I’ve come up with “green” and “soap”. I’m off to research the notes now, but would love to hear your experience with this fragrance. November 27, 2021 at 7:28am Reply

    • Klaas: Hmmm, I’m not sure my reply came out at the right place…..Have a look below to read my comment. November 28, 2021 at 3:09pm Reply

  • katherina moritz: Bonjour! Ma dernière découverte c’est Club Design The Zoo. Le parfum a un très joli drydown d’une pureté vierge surprenante par rapport à la toute première impression. Délicatesse. Je dirai une version plus crémeuse de Cuir de Russie Chanel. November 28, 2021 at 3:41am Reply

    • Aurora: Merci Katherina de partager ta découverte, l’idée dune ‘version plus crémeuse de Cuir de Russie’ est très séduisante. November 30, 2021 at 10:33am Reply

  • Klaas: Hey Alexandra, I did try H24 when it came out and I remember being quite underwhelmed. Now I like a good green fragrance and I did like the idea of Hermes coming out with an out-of-the-box scent profile for their new pillar fragrance, but I found it all too watery, too bland to get excited about……. So as much as I like their idea of a soft, green floral fragrance for men, suspended in hot steam, the overall effect lacks direction and coherence for me.

    I do think it is chic, easy to wear and very office friendly, especially in spring or summer….maybe put it away for a while and try again when the sun comes back?

    Now I wouldn’t call H24 a fougère. A fougère is a fragrance built around lavender and coumarin over a woody base. I would describe it as a aromatic green floral. November 28, 2021 at 3:07pm Reply

    • Alexandra: Thanks for your thoughts on H24, Klaas. It’s really helpful to hear from someone who knows more about fougeres and aromatic green florals. As I continued to smell the scent, I noticed sharp notes. I saw that others online have called the scent metallic, so perhaps that’s what I was picking up on. I was impressed by how long lasting it was; I sprayed in the morning and could still detect the scent at bedtime. All that said, it’s not something that I would wear again. It was fun to try as a sample, and a good experiment to push myself to try to detect notes beyond what I typically gravitate towards (rose, rhubarb, citrus, vanilla). November 30, 2021 at 7:20am Reply

      • Klaas: Hey Alexandra, that’s exactly what makes perfumery so much fun! Trying new things, discovering new notes, new effects, new scent families….And the pleasure to return to your old favorites!

        If you like rhubarb, there’s the lovely Rhubarbe Écarlate by Hermès or, if you have some money to spend, Rose Ikebana in their Hermessence line. The latter contains both rose and rhubarb, and might have a hint of vanilla as well….. November 30, 2021 at 7:49am Reply

        • Alexandra: I adore Rhubarbe Écarlate! I’m not familiar with Rose Ikebana but it sounds intriguing so I will seek it out. Thanks for the recs, much appreciated. November 30, 2021 at 8:40am Reply

  • ValentinaMere: I am looking for something new to put on my Xmas list. Budget: under $100. My faves past and present: Shiseido Feminite des Bois, Scherrer 2, Karl Lagerfeld KL, Ivoire de Balmain, Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien, Lalique Encre Noir, indigo Nest, Hermes Elixer de Merveilles. (In my youth I loved Prescriptives Calyx but it’s often too intense for me now.) November 28, 2021 at 6:49pm Reply

    • ValentinaMere: Ok maybe under $100 was too restrictive! Under $160? November 29, 2021 at 10:05pm Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Valentina: Your tastes are diverse.
      Maybe an amber would suit you? it’s a popular choice for winter. Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan is a sort of benchmark, or the lesser known but very good Van Cleef & Arpels Ambre Imperial, it’s an orangey amber, or a light amber like Laura Mercier Lumière d’Ambre, or Eau des Baux by l’Occitane which I keep recommending, very affordable. I think all these are within your budget except maybe Serge Lutens whose prices seem to increase all the time. November 30, 2021 at 10:57am Reply

      • ValentinaMere: Thank you so much! I love the orangey note in the Hermès Elixir so the Van Cleef & Arpel one sounds lovely. Yes my tastes are diverse. I’ve never settled down! I think the Shiseido and the Scherrer might be my faves? December 1, 2021 at 12:14am Reply

  • Ellen: Hello everyone, My interest in perfumery is relatively recent. A few days ago I purchased the current Miss Dior Orignale edt and I love it’s freshness with no hint at all of the powdery sweetness that I strongly dislike. However it does not satisfy me in the drydown as I cannot detect any moss or wood so I am looking for a ‘dry’ green chypre that has more complexity than Miss Dior. I am not looking for vintage as I don’t have the means or, as yet, the interest to do so. I have been trying to find a sample of the current Chanel No 19 edp online to buy but no luck so far. I am not prepared to buy and entire 100ml bottle of it and be disappointed as many reviews say the current reformulation is not chypre like. So could you suggest some fresh chypres that aren’t sweet? I have been thinking about Floris London ‘Edwardian Bouquet’ but am afraid it might be too floral and light for me as it is an edt. I love the classic perfumes but I am open to trying new ones as well. Thank you. November 29, 2021 at 3:21am Reply

    • Tourmaline: Hi Ellen,

      I’m glad you like the version of Miss Dior that you bought a few days ago.

      In her assessment of a new release of Miss Dior in the post dated February 1, 2007, Victoria writes the following.

      “Like many classical fragrances, Miss Dior has not reached us in its original state. The changes to the formula led to the attenuated base and limpid floralcy, to the unbecoming pallor of its chypre accord and the disappointing softness of its top notes. To think that something so strong, so assertive and so distinctive was to be turned into a wallflower!”

      In another post, and I can’t recall which, she writes that the current Intimate, by Revlon, is closer to the original Miss Dior than is the current version of Miss Dior. I would second that comment. It wouldn’t hurt for you to try a bottle of Intimate, which is easy to obtain, and inexpensive for its quality.

      I hope you find a fragrance you love.

      With kind regards,
      Tourmaline November 29, 2021 at 8:59am Reply

      • Ellen: Thank you for your reply. I haven’t read all of Victoria’s reviews yet. I think I like the current Miss Dior because it is the first fragrance I have tried that isn’t overwhelming sweet and powdery. I will try Revon Intimate. November 29, 2021 at 1:25pm Reply

      • Marianne: Hello Tourmaline, lovely to see a post from you 💐. I so much enjoy your vast experience in the land of scent. July 17, 2022 at 1:10am Reply

        • Tourmaline: Hi Marianne,

          A belated thank you for your kind words.

          My laptop died early in July of last year, and I was without one for several months. During that time, I missed a lot of mail, and am trying now to catch up, as I get to know my new laptop.

          I hope that you have a happy and healthy 2023!

          With kind regards,
          Tourmaline January 2, 2023 at 6:10am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Ellen, yes I agree Edwardian Bouquet is foremost a floral, Floris is known for its florals. Guerlain has the most famous chypre Mitsouko and there is the green chypre Jean-Louis Scherrer (do sample the edp if you can find it, the edt is easier to find and good too), Estée Lauder Azurée is a leather chypre in the style of Miss Dior and has been better preserved, as is also Courrèges Empreinte. Also, Annick Goutal Heure Exquise is often compared to Chanel No 19 and EL Private Collection is a must try for a green chypre. November 30, 2021 at 11:18am Reply

      • Ellen: Aurora, Thank you so much for your reply. I will make a list of your recommendations and research them. Thank you for suggesting long established perfume houses, I love the sense of legacy they evoke in this rapdily changing world. December 1, 2021 at 11:13am Reply

  • Sunny: Hello, everyone!
    I have been disappointed with my perfume sample orders lately and I think I want to branch out into more male fragrances. I have Terre d’Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche for summer, but I am in search of an autumn/winter scent that isn’t just a wall of bay leaf, leather, and tobacco crashing over me. Are there more delicate ish male scents out there anyone would recommend, cosy and warm? November 29, 2021 at 10:08am Reply

    • Alexandra: Sunny, you might enjoy Maison Margiela’s By The Fireplace. It’s a warm and spicy/sweet scent that smells like…you guessed it, a cozy night and a roaring fire. Since you mentioned wanting to try male scents, the bottle’s label calls it a “Female and Male Fragrance.” November 30, 2021 at 7:25am Reply

    • Aurora: Hello Sunny: Also you might sample the gourmand and no bay leaf, leather and tobacco, Guerlain l’Instant pour homme and Caron pour un Homme with its vanilla and lavender. December 2, 2021 at 1:26am Reply

  • Merylam: Hey, I think I am quite late to the table this month, but recently I have been craving a “clean” fragrance. This isn’t normally something I go for so I don’t really know where to start. I have tried the muse by Zarkoperfume because my sister has it, but I didn’t really like it and it didn’t scratch my clean itch. So, what I am asking you lovely people, is recommendations for a clean perfume for someone who doesn’t like clean perfumes and normally goes for pretty florals ( en passant, AG La violette, JM Orange blossom, MFK amyris femme,…) en citrus (AC pomelo paradis, jo loves mango thai lime,..) November 30, 2021 at 10:09am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Merylam: Philosophy Pure Grace is the cleanest perfume I know, also the Clean house might be worth exploring. December 2, 2021 at 1:36am Reply

  • Kitty Go: HI EVERYONE!! i was wondering if anyone could recommend something from LE COUVENT or if anyone has an opinion of the brand…it’s “vegan” – is that possible? like Victoria I like chypre and woody scents like Mitsouko, Bal A Versailles, Youth Dew BUT…I like in Asia where it is not so I have to wear citrus sometimes with undertones of musk, patchouli, etc. (Like Aerin Sicilian Lemon?) December 12, 2021 at 4:00am Reply

    • Aurora: Hi Kitty:
      I like the brand, I have the original Eau des Missions now discontinued and in the new line of Colognes I like Aqua Palmaris, it might suit you for hot weather, neroli on light musk, I got Aqua Solis for my brother as I found it more masculine and there is a bunch of others. Yes, brands can be vegan, Lush is another one.

      Le Couvent also has a line of heavier perfumes Les Parfums Remarquables which I haven’t tried but am curious about. December 13, 2021 at 3:17pm Reply

  • Alana: I grew to love the smell of my sister’s perfume (VICTORIA’S SECRET PINK) when I was in high school, but they discontinued it. I have heard that you developed this fragrance. Can you recommend anything like it that I can buy in 2022. December 26, 2021 at 2:06am Reply

  • Jeremy: Johann Maria Farina 1709. It is the most beautiful citrus I have ever smelled, and it has a long and storied history. January 24, 2022 at 7:37pm Reply

  • Robert: Please recommend a perfume that uses Osmanthus to the maximum advantage.

    Also where would you buy osmanthus to be used in perfumes, food, drinks etc? February 17, 2022 at 4:52am Reply

  • Julie Ellis: Hi, I love this thread and have missed it, so many great suggestions out there. I am looking for a relaxing scent for summer & early fall, maybe a little citrus edge to it.
    Currently I am using Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermes, and really like it, but still want to add another summery scent. Thanks!!
    Missing summer scents from the ’70’s too! July 15, 2022 at 4:55pm Reply

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