We have our “Recommend Me a Perfume” thread today. You can use this space to ask any questions about perfume, including fragrance recommendations.
How does it work: 1. Please post your requests or questions as comments here. You can also use this space to ask any fragrance related questions. To receive recommendations that are better tailored to your tastes, you can include details on what you like and don’t like, your signature perfumes, and your budget. And please let us know what you end up sampling. 2. Then please check the thread to see if there are other requests you can answer. Your responses are really valuable for navigating the big and sometimes confusing world of perfume, so let’s help each other!
To make this thread easier to read, when you reply to someone, please click on the blue “reply” link under their comment.
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
472 Comments
WJ: I am looking for a perfume with a noticeable boronia note. Thank you for your suggestions. January 27, 2016 at 9:13am
Jillie: Boronia was the reason I fell for Miller Harris’s Jasmin Vert! This is now discontinued, but you may still be able to find it. Aftelier have a solid solifleur boronia, which I am sure would be lovely.
Apparently boronia is a shrub that grows in Australia and it is very costly. I have some boronia essential oil which was expensive and didn’t quite smell the way I thought it would.
I’m sure you will find lists of perfumes that contain boronia on the net, but it’s difficult to say just how much of the essence they would contain, so you will have to do a lot of testing! January 27, 2016 at 10:00am
WJ: Hi Jillie, there is a list with boronia containing fragrances, but it’s mostly hidden in amongst lots of other flowers. I will try to hunt down the Miller Harris. The Aftelier Boronia is discontinued so would be quite expensive to get. Thank you for your suggestion. January 27, 2016 at 7:45pm
AC: Natural perfumer Aftelier’s Lumiere is beautiful, and has a heart of boronia January 27, 2016 at 2:57pm
WJ: Thanks for that, I will get a sample to try. January 27, 2016 at 7:46pm
Sofie: Hi WJ, apparently vintage Diorissimo parfum has a beautiful and noticeable Boronia note. I bought a bottle called Boronia perfume spray. Quite cheap at my local chemist, so I’m wondering if it has the real deal in there. It smells very floral in a retro way. I find it a ‘golden’ scent and enjoyed combining it with Dior Dune. If you’ld like I will send you a sample? January 28, 2016 at 4:35am
Sofie: Also, if you Google ‘Boronia perfume’ or ‘Boronia perfume spray’ you will find a few sites of Australian indie perfumers who offer sample sets of their perfumes, all reasonably priced. January 28, 2016 at 4:53am
WJ: that’s a great idea, I will do that February 18, 2016 at 6:16am
Arlene: It’s amazing how a scent can stay with you. Years ago, on about 3 different occasions, I caught a whiff of a scent that was exceptionally crisp and clear and elegant. On 2 of those occasions, when I asked the person what scent it was, they said they forgot! I think they didn’t want to share. I would love to find this fragrance. It was in the 70s-early80s. January 27, 2016 at 9:19am
Gabrielle Langley: Here are a few possibilities that launched in that era that fit your description:
Fidji by Guy Laroche
White Linen by Estée Lauder
Estée by Estée Lauder
Ivoire de Balmain
Chanel No. 19
Cristalle by Chanel
Fragrances meeting that description were quite popular in the 70s.
Wishing you best of luck in your hunt for that elusive fragrance. January 27, 2016 at 10:37am
Arlene: Thank you Gabrielle. January 27, 2016 at 1:03pm
Hildegerd: Could be the original Scherrer as well. January 27, 2016 at 2:42pm
Hamamelis: Just adding O de Lancome to Gabrielle’s great list. January 27, 2016 at 10:39am
Gabrielle Langley: Oh yes! Definitely! Thanks for remembering that one Hamamelis. O de Lancôme is also still in production, too. 🙂 January 27, 2016 at 10:48am
Arlene: Thank you — haven’t tried that one yet! January 27, 2016 at 1:07pm
Aurora: Already great ideas. I will add, Eau de Rochas and in France as I was growing up the Diors were really popular: Miss Dior and Dioressence in particular. I would have added Diorella but the newest one had a difficult cumin note that didn’t use to be there and is a betrayal of a well loved classic. January 27, 2016 at 12:07pm
SophieC: Another one that occurs to me is it might have been Eau de Campagne by Sisley. A lovely elegant refreshing Ellena scent. January 27, 2016 at 1:18pm
Mia: One possibility more: Worth Je reviens. Great lists! January 27, 2016 at 2:14pm
Tam: Je Revien doesn’t seem to get much mention these days but I’ve loved it since the 70’s. To my nose Prada D’Infusion smells very close. January 31, 2016 at 11:03pm
Mia: Great to hear that Tam, it is such a beautiful scent! I think Je Reviens is guilty for me becoming a perfumista. I got the empty beautiful bottle from my mother in 70s. The bottle still smelled just divine.
As an adult, I didn’t remember the name of the parfum, but started to hunt it – the consequence being that I got seriously involved with perfumes before finding Je Reviens. Later I found it, it treasure it. I do not wear it but have a vintage perfume to remind me of the journey :). February 1, 2016 at 12:59am
Solanace: Maybe Paco Rabane Calandre? January 28, 2016 at 5:25pm
Notturno7: I love Calandre! January 29, 2016 at 3:47am
Cybele: could also be Eau d’Orange Vert Hermes January 29, 2016 at 1:00am
Notturno7: Maybe Givenchy III ?
By the way, Alrene, I think that was you, thanks for recommending vintage
Caleche pure perfume to me. Beautiful!!
I got a 40 year old bottle and it’s, to my nose, better then EdP I tried in the store. I also got a much better deal than if I bought a new perfume. I got 2Oz and I would have payed more for 1/4 Oz bottle if I got it in the store.
Thank you! January 29, 2016 at 4:00am
Arlene: Thank you everyone – I’ve had many of these, but my search beings anew with your wonderful suggestions. January 29, 2016 at 9:43am
katherine X (was L): One more – Norrell. January 29, 2016 at 7:17pm
elizzile: Tom Ford Atelier d’Orient Shanghai Lily – After reading the review on Bois de Jasmin, I wanted Shanghai Lily, I got a 15 ml sample. It remains one of my favorites… January 27, 2016 at 9:30am
Gabrielle Langley: Have you tried Tom Ford’s Fleur de Chine? There is a resemblance in the structure and in the way the floral notes are blended with exotic notes. Baiser Vole by Cartier is also a possibility for you (the eau de parfum). January 27, 2016 at 10:41am
elizzile: Yes, I also love Fleur de Chine. My favorite Cartier fragrance is Le Panthere. I need to test Baiser Vole. I am currently fixated on fragrances with agarwood (oud). January 27, 2016 at 8:32pm
Jenny Katz: I’ve only a few years’ experience with perfume, so I wonder if one of you more experienced perfumistas can advise me. The perfume I find easiest to wear is L’Ombre Dans L’Eau. I’d like to have a counterpoint to this scent—something quite different, warmer and richer maybe, but with the same ease of wear. (A winter perfume?) I’ve tried and liked many scents, but I am greedy for the scents that 1) stay interesting for a long time and yet 2) are not too overwhelming. (Complicating the situation is the fact that my husband is allergic to many things, so sillage is a big problem. When I’m around him I either a) mix a little scent in my body lotion or b) stick to natural perfumes, a tiny dab on the back of my wrist, so that I can smell it privately.) I do have a mini of Aftelier’s Cepes and Tuberose, which I love, although it wears very sweet on me (like pastry covered in powdered sugar). I just sniffed a sample of L’Artisan Timbuktu, which seemed up my alley. I like vintage Rochas Femme. Loved AbdesSalaam Feromone for Femme. SSS Winter Woods is nice on, but I get a little bored. Same with Tokyo Milk Dark 28. (It could be that I like the patchouli/ambery blends, but need to find one with more dimension?) I love Shalimar on my mom, though I’ve never worn it myself. What else? Strong vanilla smells like rubber on me. The scent I love the most upon first whiff is Rubj, and my mom did recently give me a FB, but even with the teeniest application I MYSELF am often overwhelmed after about half an hour. So, first question: Can you recommend a way to tone down the strength of Rubj without losing that incredible tartness that makes me swoon? And, second question (thank you for your patience!), having heard all these random comments, any other suggestions as to what I ought to smell? THANK you! January 27, 2016 at 9:48am
Gabrielle Langley: If you like Rochas’ “Femme,” you might enjoy Bottega Veneta (the original one for women, still widely available in better department stores like Saks, Bergdorf’s, Neiman Marcus). It makes a lovely fall-winter perfume. It is complex without being overwhelming. It has that same apricot-peachy note the I remember in Femme, which I grew up with since it was my mother’s signature; this may explain my Being so drawn to Bottega Veneta. It is also, hands down, the fragrance I receive the most compliments on from both men and women. January 27, 2016 at 10:29am
Jenny Katz: I love hearing about fragrances that get widely complimented. I’ll go hunt for this! Thank you, Gabrielle! January 27, 2016 at 12:06pm
Anne: Hello,
I haven’t tried most of the perfume you list. However, the few I know about, like you I love. Have you tried Mitsouko by Guerlain? Also, this winter I have been enjoying Tom Ford Black Orchid. Now, I too really am not into heavy projecting perfume, and TF generally are quite strong. I found that just a tiny tiny amount was the perfect comfort I wanted from my winter scent. It is also very interesting and poetic. The bottle is going to last me forever!!!! January 27, 2016 at 10:45am
Jenny Katz: I’ve never tried any TF. But I played Anita in West Side Story when I was a freshman in high school (oh so many years ago), and you reminded me that one of my lines was about the perfume I was putting on for my late date: “Black Orchid,” I purred. So… I guess I must try this one! Thank you! Oh, and I have tried Mitsouko. I liked it, but I didn’t fall in love. January 27, 2016 at 12:08pm
Anne: Try it, but a small amount?. You might, like me, really love this one. January 27, 2016 at 12:15pm
Jenny Katz: I am driving by Sephora in an hour’s time. I think I’ll stop in and cadge a sample! xo January 27, 2016 at 12:23pm
Jenny Katz: Okay, sampled and sprayed! And here’s what it was on me… started out as melon and pineapple, warmed up into a piña colada with a flower (it DID smell orchid-y!) on the edge of the glass, then became a kind of pale vanilla. Haha! I don’t even see most of those notes in the description. That was fun to try, Anne, thank you! I liked it, but I don’t think my skin brought out its best, lol. January 27, 2016 at 4:34pm
Indigo: I have a very similar experience – all fruit salad, quick floral then sweet dry down. My skin didn’t give me what I was hoping for at all… January 27, 2016 at 5:16pm
Tiffany: Cepes and Tuberose and Rubj are so beautiful and singular. I am new to perfumes, and this will not help you find something less strong, but you might enjoy Papillon’s Salome. For the strength of the Rubj, she has three concentrations. Could you have one of the stronger concentrations? Just a thought. Her Onda is also very beautiful, and I may like it a bit more than Rubj, but that is splitting hairs. Both make me swoon, and so I wear them when I want to feel like swooning! January 27, 2016 at 11:22am
Jenny Katz: Tiffany, I have the Rubj EDP. I don’t know if it could possible qualify as one of the “weaker” ones, haha, but it does have the tartness of the passionfruit, which I think may be what I love so much. I haven’t smelled the parfum or the voile d’extrait. Papillon’s Salome sounds pretty yummy. It sounds as if we have at least some similar tastes… May I ask what you wear regularly? January 27, 2016 at 12:12pm
Tiffany: Thank you! January 27, 2016 at 1:55pm
Tiffany: Oops. Replied “thank you” to the wrong post. I don’t wear anything regularly yet. But I do like all of the Papillion perfumes, and all of the Serge Lutens that I’ve tried. Of the latter, so far I like Bois de Violette and Sa Majeste La Rose the best. But I tried also Chergui, Fille de Berlin, and Feminite du Bois and I would definitely wear these as well. The only bottle I’ve bought is the Tobacco Rose from Papillon, but I’m obsessed with roses. 🙂 January 27, 2016 at 2:04pm
Jenny Katz: I just ordered a sample of Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit. I remember reading somewhere on this blog that, if you like one perfume from a house (especially a niche house), you will often like the others, because you vibe with something in the base. January 27, 2016 at 4:37pm
Tiffany: I too am curious to know what that one is like! I hope you enjoy it. January 27, 2016 at 8:24pm
Jenny Katz: Tiffany, I tried it this evening and I don’t think it did much for me. Would you like it? I think I also have a sample of Chergui kicking around… and I have a few other things due to arrive in the mail; if I don’t like something (especially a rose something; I can’t remember what I ordered) I can drop those in, too… anyway, if you’re interested, you can email me at my name, first and last, no spaces, plus the word music, at the gmail place. (Hope that wasn’t too cryptic. 🙂 January 27, 2016 at 11:02pm
Karen (A): I was surprising disappointed by Rose de Nuit – was expecting to love it, but it was sour and not at all what I was expecting. January 29, 2016 at 10:28am
Indigo: Have you tried Portrait of a Lady? It has a rose/tart berry combination that is not unlike that in L’Ombre dans l’eau, and the spices can seem cold the way L’Ombre can feel cool and chilly. However, the overall effect is much warmer and ambery, and it is lovely in the winter. I never get bored of it and wear it most of the cooler months. January 27, 2016 at 4:21pm
Jenny Katz: I haven’t tried it; in fact, I haven’t tried anything from Frédéric Malle. It sounds really delicious. I’m going to order a sample for sure. Thank you, Indigo! January 27, 2016 at 4:41pm
katherine X (was L): Don’t do it! Haha only kidding. FM is a favorite of mine and as I mentioned to Subhi in a different post – my ruination… January 29, 2016 at 7:25pm
Jenny Katz: Hilarious, Katherine! I’m wearing my sample of Agent Provocateur for the first time today… love it. I can buy a bottle for $28 online, which is what? less than a tenth of what POAL will cost. Lol! What’s your favorite Malle? January 30, 2016 at 8:38am
katherine X (was L): Glad you laughed. As for my favorite Malle – it’s a close tie between Carnal Flower and Eau de Magnolia. They’re very different in feel – even though they’re both florals. The Carnal feels all flower and lush gardens to me and the Magnolia flits between floral and patchouli/woody but not oudy,. Both have great sillage and longevity on me (and my clothes) – and neither sours with time. They each have a lot of soul. Glad you asked! January 30, 2016 at 10:50am
Jenny Katz: If you and I responded similarly to Black Orchid, I double definitely have to try Portrait of a Lady! (Just looked it up… whew! Ten bucks for a sample vial.) Tell me, Indigo, what else do you like wearing? January 27, 2016 at 5:30pm
Indigo: I know, it is my biggest extravagance. Very expensive, but I think it smells it (which is not necessarily as evident in other Malle perfumes).
I am fussy, fussy. This is partly why I justify to myself expensive POAL when my ‘wardrobe’ is so small.
I love Après l’Ondée for its wet greens and anisic edge but it is so fleeting…such a pity. Feminité du Bois is another favourite – dry, shaded woods. I have Santal Majuscule, too, but I have to be in the right mood – sandalwood, rose, cocoa, orris. Bottega Veneta is lovely, but doesn’t seem to last in my so I’ve moved it to my ‘give away’ pile.
I’m exploring some Parfum de Nicolaï soon – I’ve added a post further down – and am hoping that will turn up something good.
We do seem to have similar reactions – Baies is my adored favourite splurge candle, which is I think the home version of L’Ombre dans l’Eau! I’ll have to try rubj next… January 27, 2016 at 5:41pm
Jenny Katz: You’re also a very good writer. I loved reading about your heart’s palpitating! Thanks for all the suggestions. January 27, 2016 at 6:59pm
limegreen: Hi Jenny! Don’t know if you are still reading, but you can go on the Malle website (Editions de Parfums) and take the Find Your Signature Scent questionnaire. You will get an email response for recommendations and the option to get 3 samples for around $20. (You can request POAL as one of your 3.) You can get a stand alone boutique and get the recommended perfumes, or call up and have them sent to you. These are deluxe 3 ml samples, too. It’s great fun to take the questionnaire. And the Malle SAs are very nice and helpful. Good luck! January 27, 2016 at 9:28pm
Jenny Katz: That sounds super-fun, limegreen! I’m going to continue procrastinating on my work for tomorrow’s 8:30 meeting and go take it now! Thanks! January 27, 2016 at 10:41pm
Jenny Katz: That was lovely and fun. Thank you. xo January 27, 2016 at 10:57pm
limegreen: Wow, you are fast!
Glad you had fun with it, always better than work stuff, at any rate! I called up, after getting my perfume personality results (!), and got another recommendation from a different SA than the one who emailed me, so I ended up with a slightly different set of samples. This is how I discovered Carnal Flower and Une Fleur de Cassie, both of which I adore. January 27, 2016 at 11:22pm
Notturno7: Limegreen, those are my favorite FM too, Fleur de Cassie, Carnal Flower) and I also love Lys Mediterranee which I end up wearing mostly in summer ( feels like a great warm weather holiday by the sea kind of thing because of light,sea salt note.) January 29, 2016 at 3:46am
limegreen: I love Lys Med, too! It’s sort of nice in the cold weather, have you tried? It’s hard to pick a favorite in the Malle line because of the different noses, but Dans tes Bras would be the one I would miss if it were to be discontinued.
(Not too many would miss this one though.) January 29, 2016 at 9:49am
Notturno7: No, I didn’t try it in the cold weather and now I will have to?!!
Looks like I’m really missing out on this!! January 31, 2016 at 4:14am
Jenny Katz: Limegreen, reading your recommendation of Dans tes Bras (and then reading some other reviews online) prompted me to buy a sample… which I just sprayed for the first time. Now, granted that I’m still in the first twenty minutes of wearing this, but the effect I get very strongly, and I swear this is true, is… hamburger! It’s not entirely great but it’s not entirely terrible, either… I’m all agog to see what happens next! Haha, thank you for the impetus! February 8, 2016 at 10:32pm
limegreen: Oh, no! Well, Dans tes Bras is a challenge but I’ve never heard of hamburger. 🙂
It was really sour the first time I tried it, and it became perfect for me, my second time trying it. So, live with this one for a bit.
Please report back! (feeling sheepish) February 9, 2016 at 12:45am
Jenny Katz: Limegreen—sheepish?! Not at all! I like interesting perfumes, more than just pretty ones, and what could be more fun and interesting than trying a perfume and having it smell like hamburgers on you! I’ve read your comments, on this post and others, and find you to be a smart and elegant and interesting person, so I knew that any scent you would “miss” would be something special. I’m wondering if the hamburger accord is some kind of “fleshiness” that, on you, smells like just the right kind of live body. In any case, I will keep trying it, and I’m indebted to you for the experience! If nothing else, it was a great exercise in trusting my own nose, rather than convincing myself that I smell the listed notes! February 9, 2016 at 10:27am
limegreen: Thanks for the sweet words, Jenny! 🙂
How’d you do with your other samples?
Dans Tes Bras does mesh really well on my skin, a lovely creamy slightly floral musk, so perhaps you are right about the “fleshiness” quality! 🙂 February 11, 2016 at 1:48pm
Morelle: You liked Timbuktu, a favourite of mine. Two scents which to me seem to share its spirit, though not the notes, are L’air du désert Marocain (Tauer) and Ambre Nue (Atelier Cologne). The latter is somewhat lighter, so might be more up your alley. All three scents are good for winter wear, but also for very hot weather. January 27, 2016 at 7:04pm
Jenny Katz: I like the ideas of perfumes that share the spirit, not the notes. I actually have a sample of L’air du désert Marocain somewhere around here… it didn’t grab me hugely when I first tried it, but I think I wasn’t paying good attention. I’ll go dig it out… thank you for the suggestion, Morelle! January 27, 2016 at 8:23pm
Calvados: Fresh peeled peaches, sounds so wonderful! Thanks for your suggestions, will be looking for samples. January 28, 2016 at 9:46am
Jenny Katz: I believe you meant this reply to be farther down the page, Calvados! 🙂 January 28, 2016 at 1:46pm
katherine X (was L): Not the same notes but along the lines of Timbuktu is Sycomore (Chanel). January 29, 2016 at 7:29pm
Jenny Katz: Okay, Morelle, I am wearing Timbuktu on my left arm, LDDM on my right. When I first dabbed Timbuktu I thought, hmmm, this is a bit sour on me, maybe even slightly urinous, but so interesting… maybe I need something with a bit more sweetness! Then, about an hour later, I applied LDDM, and there it was—the sweetness. Ironically, though, once I had the sweetness to compare, I seem to be more interested in the strange sharpness of Timbuktu! Thank you for the suggestion. I would love to hear about any of your other favorites of any type… something you think everyone ought to sniff. 🙂 February 4, 2016 at 9:21am
Morelle: Hi Jenny, you should also try Ambre Nue, it falls somewhere between Timbuktu and LDDM.
Not sure whether these favourites of mine are something everyone ought to sniff, but anyway I love them: SL Five o’Clock au Gingembre, Féminité du Bois, Fleurs d’Oranger, Bas de Soie, Bulgari Black, Miller Harris L’Air de Rien, Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil, ELDO Fat Electrician and Putain de Palaces, Chanel No. 18, No. 19 and 31 Rue Cambon, Dior Dune, Amouage Jubilation 25 Man, Bottega Veneta, Lubin Idole, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, LesNez The Unicorn Spell, Parfums de Rosine Roseberry, Nicolai Odalisque, Penhaligon’s Violetta. February 7, 2016 at 4:59pm
Jenny Katz: Yum! I have smelled Fleurs d’Oranger, Bulgari Black, and Un Jardin Sur Le Nil (liked all three), and just ordered a sample of Dune. I’ve been wanting to smell Chanel No. 19 and 31 Rue Cambon, but now I’m even more curious about Fat Electrician! What a great name! Haha. Thanks for the list… I’ll go read some reviews 🙂 February 7, 2016 at 6:22pm
Old Herbaceous: If you like Shalimar on your mother and might like to try a lighter version yourself, try Shalimar Eau de Cologne! I just got some myself after having tried and failed to like Shalimar EDP on myself several times. The eau de cologne is luscious, with all the vanilla, incense, etc., but very light. It lasts better than most EDCs, though. I am really enjoying it this winter! And it is very affordable. I got mine on sale at CVS for $24.99; full price is $49.99 for 2.5 oz. January 28, 2016 at 7:48am
Jenny Katz: Wow, that’s a steal. There is a CVS right around the corner… 🙂 Thanks for the suggestion, Old Herbaceous! January 28, 2016 at 10:59am
Amber: Might be too late to jump in but Guerlain’s Tonka Imperiale and Le Parfum de 68 may be worth trying if you enjoy Shalimar.
With your husband’s sensitivities I highly recommend the natural perfume oils from Phoenix Botanicals. The perfumer studied with Mandy Aftel and her scents have soul. They don’t last as long as mixed media but I don’t care, I just reapply with glee! I love her Lavender Noir- bergamot, lavender, wildflowers, tonka bean, oakmoss, smoke and mushrooms. Yummmmmmmm! February 2, 2016 at 2:03am
Jenny Katz: I don’t know Phoenix! I’ll definitely check them out. Thanks for the tip, Amber! February 2, 2016 at 8:37am
Amber: You’re welcome Jenny! Irina Adams the perfumer of Phoenix Botanicals is a lovely person to correspond with too, her packages and notes are always so beautifully and thoughtfully prepared. Her shop is on Etsy. February 2, 2016 at 1:50pm
Calvados: I would love to find a fragrance with notes of wild strawberries – preferably not to sweet all over, and a happy mood one. Any recommendations? A happy peach – not chypre – is also welcome. January 27, 2016 at 9:49am
rickyrebarco: A very happy peach is Flower of Immortality by Kilian, it always makes me smile. It smells like fresh peeled Georgia peaches on a summer’s day.
Another couple to try are Peche Cardinal by MDCI or Peau de Peche by Keiko Mecheri. January 27, 2016 at 11:59am
aromaology2015: I second MDCI Peche Cardinal if you want to find a peach perfume – it is really delicious. Most of the MDCI perfumes are worth trying and they have one of the best sampling programmes where the discovery set is redeemable against a full bottle – just so hard to choose which full bottle – I like so many!
Another peach I have been really enjoying since last summer is the Caudalie Peche De Vigne Shower Gel. Good luck. January 27, 2016 at 7:08pm
Calvados: Fresh peeled peaches just sounds delicious! Thank you for your suggestions. February 4, 2016 at 11:11pm
Malmaison: I second Flower of Immortality, such a lovely peach-infused fragrance. I didn’t even know I wanted peach till I tried it on for the first time! January 27, 2016 at 1:11pm
Petunia: Calvados, For the wild strawberries you may want to try Fraagola Saalaaata by Hildi Soliani which is a very simple salted strawberry scent. It is lovely during the summer. Also, Amouse Bouche by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, which more of a gourmand scent with a strawberry note. January 27, 2016 at 8:34pm
Calvados: Mm, simple salted strawberry! Will definitely get a sample. Amuse Bouche I’d like to sample just because of it’s name. 🙂 February 4, 2016 at 11:12pm
Tomate Farcie: Heely Bubblegum Chic might fit the bill, also Sarah Horowitz Perfect Nectar January 27, 2016 at 8:40pm
Calvados: Thank you! February 4, 2016 at 11:13pm
limegreen: Jo Malone is launching an Herb Garden series of 5 fragrances, and I happened upon the testers recently (not available for sale yet). One of my immediate “likes” was Wild Strawberry and Parsley, but it’s a very light cologne. January 27, 2016 at 11:12pm
Calvados: It might be a very nice summer scent, the spray away one, from the fridge. I haven’t smelled Jo Malones in a while, will definitely give Herb Garden a try. Thank you for your suggestion. February 4, 2016 at 11:14pm
Taffy: A realistic, juicy peach scent is Mediterranean Peach by Krigler.
For an unusual, addictive strawberry, try Imaginary Authors Cape Heartache. January 28, 2016 at 1:24am
Calvados: Thank you, so many good suggestions. Putting them in a list and exploring the sampling options. February 4, 2016 at 11:14pm
Peppermoon: Strawberry – Invisible Authors Cape Heartache (fir, pine tree, hemlock, vanilla, big strawberry and woody notes.) The evergreen makes it smell a bit more wild. An odd combo, but one I find myself coming back to often.
Peach – Ok not technically peach but you should try Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom and Honey, which is a great peach skin + peach honey scent. February 4, 2016 at 3:29pm
Calvados: Pine trees and strawberries sound like forests from my childhood, where we went berry and mushroom picking. Appreciate your thoughtful suggestion, Peppermoon.
I forgot about Nectarine Blossom and Honey. While hardly complicated, it’s easy to wear and enjoyable.
Thank you! February 4, 2016 at 11:16pm
sarah Colton: Hello Victoria,
I attended the Trenoï niche fragrance perfume show in Paris this weekend and smelled Nicolas Chabot’s interesting new brand called Aether. (Nicolas’s other brand is Le Galion). There are 4 fragrances in the Aether line as of now, all 100% synthetic, and all created by Amalie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel of Flair, a dynamic risk-taking young team of perfumers in Paris. All the Aether fragrances are interesting and intense. The one I like the best and plan to wear often is ‘Rose Alcane’ which is both fresh, somewhat ether/other worldly, and slightly metallic. Really lovely. The other three fragrances are: ‘Citrus Ester’, ‘Muskethanol’, and ‘Carboneun’. January 27, 2016 at 9:52am
sarah Colton: Oops! I forgot to include a 5th Aether fragrance. It’s called ‘Ether Oxyde’. January 27, 2016 at 11:02am
katherine X (was L): These sound really interesting. January 29, 2016 at 7:31pm
Fernando: I need a recommendation , my girlfriend loves Carolina Herrera , the one with the polka dots box, she loves it and is the only perfume she will use because she says that other perfumes are either too strong or gives her headaches.
I’m desperate to find something that she might like for this Valentine’s Day.
Please
Any and all help is appreciated.
Thank you January 27, 2016 at 9:53am
Michaela: Your safe choice is polka dots Carolina Herrera. Another bottle is always welcome. If this is the only perfume she likes to wear now, any other perfume you bring, no matter how beautiful or rare, may not be appreciated. Especially if it’s similar. The frustration would be there: ‘…close, but cannot be compared…’ January 27, 2016 at 10:10am
Fernando: But she has expressed that she wants something new . And I don’t know which perfumes are similar in style January 27, 2016 at 10:12am
Hamamelis: You could try Estee Lauder’s private collection Tuberose and Gardenia, because it is a white flower perfume with tuberose, but it has its emphasis on the gardenia so it is different from the Herrera one. There are many other tuberose perfumes (Piguet’s Fracas, Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower, Givenchy Amarige, Madonna’s Truth or Dare etc) but I would recommend taking your girlfriend with you to let her smell them before buying her a bottle. January 27, 2016 at 10:50am
Michaela: Sorry, I thought she doesn’t wish a change…
You can follow Jillie’s advice.
Another option is to offer her small samples of totally different scents, maybe one of them would spark to her. SOme no-headache and not strong perfumes, but long lasting and interesting: Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert or Eau Parfumee au the Rouge, Prada Infusion d’Iris, Hermes: Un Jardin sur le Nil, Eau de Narcisse Bleu, Eau des Merveilles; Chanel Eau Premiere. January 27, 2016 at 10:55am
Jillie: And I think that Michaela is right – it’s probably best to stick to what she likes, providing you can still buy it! January 27, 2016 at 10:14am
Jillie: Just to be confusing, Herrera have s
everal bottles with polka dots! So I wonder which one it is?
If it is the original Carolina Herrera for women (white with small dots), that is a huge powerhouse of white florals, especially tuberose, and it always gives me a headache! Something similar is Guerlain’s Jardins de Bagatelle.
The other dotty Herreras are the Flore (red box), which is very jasmine dominated, and AquaFlore (pale box) which is a floral, and Carolina (with really big dots) – this one has been likened to Coco Mademoiselle.
So I think it depends on which of those it is ……. January 27, 2016 at 10:11am
Fernando: The bottle is tall and clear with a golden cap with ch on it January 27, 2016 at 10:15am
Jillie: Well, I think it must be the original CH for Women (although two of the others have similar bottles). In that case, I will stay with my recommendation of the Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle. But maybe get a sample first! January 27, 2016 at 10:23am
Aurora: Fernando: or you might try a different route and gift her with a very good cologne for the summer months and beyond. Guerlain comes to mind: Eau de Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Imperiale, Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat. 2nd choice all the eaux de cologne by Acqua di Parma, they are really good. January 27, 2016 at 12:16pm
JoDee: Fernando,
How nice that you are taking the time to consider her gift as opposed to rushing last minute. Perhaps, instead of committing to one bottle, you could create a sample box of all the mentioned fragrances by purchasing 1-2 ml samples through the sample sites like luckyscent and surrendertochance (if you are in the US). With this approach your girlfriend can choose what she likes and has the fun of sharing her thoughts on each scent with you. Just an idea! January 27, 2016 at 5:04pm
Karen (A): Van Cleef and Arpel’s Gardenia Petale is a very very pretty fragrance that she may enjoy. If you decide to make up a sample basket (say 4-6 samples), you could print up a pretty gift card for a full bottle of her favorite.
For samples, I’d strongly suggest using Luckyscent (online), or a good department store near you. I have gotten decants from some places that don’t smell the same as the bottles (could be for a variety of reasons, different formulation, etc). January 27, 2016 at 6:26pm
Karen (A): Adding Guerlain’s French Kiss to try. January 27, 2016 at 6:44pm
kayliz: I’ll second that — V&A Gardenia Petale is /very/ pretty and has wide appeal. January 27, 2016 at 7:51pm
kayliz: – VC&A – January 27, 2016 at 7:52pm
Petunia: Seconding VC & A Gardenia Petals. So Pretty. January 27, 2016 at 8:40pm
Notturno7: Hi Fernando,
My husband is allergic to fragrance and I love it. I noticed it helps when I get pure perfume!!! He doesn’t get allergies or headaches and I put less on because it’s higher concentration.
You’re getting some great tips from people?
Fracas pure perfume or EdP is gorgeous. I use that and Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
pure perfume -no headache! January 29, 2016 at 4:15am
katherine X (was L): Take her perfume shopping? January 29, 2016 at 7:33pm
Tiffany: I’m new to perfume and my first time posting! Although I have been reading this blog. Over the winter I discovered a number of perfumes that I like. Papillon Artisan Perfumes, especially Tobacco Rose. Serge Lutens, Bois de Violette and Sa Majeste La Rose, and Indult Isvaraya. I also like Iris perfumes generally. Although the Isvaraya has Jasmine in it, every other Jasmine I have tried has a very strange and strong “off” smell. But I love jasmine! What I am looking for is recommendations for spring and summer based on some of the above. I love the beach, and imagine I would like “salty” scents as well. But I don’t care for “clean.” January 27, 2016 at 10:04am
Dottie: Tobacco Rose and Sa Majeste La Rose are two of my favorites, so you may also enjoy Annick Goutal Ce Soir ou Jamais, a spicy, pear-like rose that works wonderfully in spring and summer. Her line has several beautiful rose options, but this is the most interesting. January 27, 2016 at 10:57am
Tiffany: Thank you! I am obsessed with roses and will definitely get some samples of these. January 27, 2016 at 2:05pm
Alicia: Be careful with Ce soir ou Jamais. Buy a sample and see if it doesn’t turn sour on your skin. It did on mine, becoming very unpleasant. Now, since you also love roses, as I do, try Guerlain Nahema. And perhaps you might also go for a dark rose, in which case I like to suggest S. Lutens La fille de Berlin, and F. Malle Portrait of a Lady. Amouage has a unique rose fragrance, and if price allows, try Amouage Lyric Woman. January 27, 2016 at 5:45pm
Ariadne: Yes, Ce Soir ou Jamais is tricky but glorious if it works with the wearer’s skin chemistry & Fille De Berlin is a compulsive wrist sniffer delight. Tresor’s Midnight Rose is another good rose. Atelier’s Rose Anonyme is even better.
I am currently swooning over my sample of Heeley’s Iris de Nuit but I am wrestling with the FB price tag. January 27, 2016 at 7:30pm
Tati: Just to make your choices more confusing (I love dark roses also) Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection is a wonderful spicy rose with ginger and black pepper. I also really like Lubin’s Black Jade, which has cardamom, jasmine, and incense! I’m new to the perfume obsession also. January 27, 2016 at 7:24pm
Petunia: Second Black Jade. January 27, 2016 at 8:43pm
Notturno7: Tiffany, Have you tried Annick Goutal Songes for jasmine plus vanilla? I love that, and also for summer, Frederick Malle Lys Mediterranee for light touch of ocean salt and lillies. FM also has an intense Une Rose, but I like other two better. January 29, 2016 at 4:23am
Notturno7: Also, Fire Island (Bond No 9) is quite ‘beach like’ and fun! January 29, 2016 at 4:27am
Solanace: Ce Soir ou Jamais is wonderful. Goutal’s roses are all with a try. January 28, 2016 at 5:45pm
Candace: Have you tried Estee Lauder’s Ikat Jasmine I think it’s called. I just sampled that this week and it’s lovely. January 27, 2016 at 2:14pm
Karen (A): Stella is a very nice rose and is quite affordable. Guerlain’s Flira Rosa is a wonderful rose for spring and summer, also can be found for a reasonable cost. Andy Tauer’s Rose Flash is a jammy rose that comes in a 10ml roller, so price is very affordable. Jo Mallone’s Red Roses is just that – a bottle of fresh cut roses.
A la Nuit is pretty much queen of the jasmins in my book.
La Fille de Berlin as recommended by others is beautiful –
If you haven’t tried Carnal Flower, give it a try. It’s got a coconut note that may evoke the beach for you, but it’s a gorgeous rich tuberose that’s intoxicating.
Have fun and be sure to keep us posted! January 27, 2016 at 6:39pm
aromaology2015: If you love jasmine I would recommend Jean Patou’s Joy – it is quite powerful. If you want a lighter jasmine fragrance, I am currently trying Jasmin Angélique from Atelier Cologne and am really liking it.
When I read your comment about looking for a beach scent I immediately thought of Parfums de Nicolai Weekend à Deauville – I think mainly because of Victoria’s review on this site. I was prompted to buy untested as a result of the review and I am loving this perfume. Best of luck. January 27, 2016 at 7:23pm
Aurora: I second Joy but to be precise it is the eau de toilette which has a lovely green jasmine note make sure it’s EDT not Eau de Parfum which is more animalic so not suited. Also Songes Annick Goutal is another great jasmine centered fragrance, adding First by Van Cleef & Arpels and Serge Lutens Sarrasins.
For salty beach perfumes there is Fleurs de Sel Miller Harris, Reveal Calvin Klein. January 28, 2016 at 7:15am
aromaology2015: As you mentioned you like iris perfumes I would recommend Chanel’s 28 La Pausa, Guerlain Apres L’Ondee (stunning in Spring and read the reviews on this site) and Atelier Cologne Silver Iris. January 27, 2016 at 7:28pm
kayliz: A fellow iris and rose fan! Here are my favourites:
Iris: Chanel 28 La Pausa, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Annick Goutal Heure Exquise, Cartier L’Heure Promise and Carthusia 1681.
Rose: Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin, Elie Saab Essence No.1, Kerosene Whips and Roses (less blooming rose, more freshly cut rose stems) … and you must try Chanel Misia:)
My favourite salty perfume is Vero Profumo Rubj, which is actually two different scents: the EdP is heavier/more animalic than the Extrait/Voile d’Extrait. January 27, 2016 at 8:11pm
Surbhi: Carnal flower. The ultimate beach scent ! January 28, 2016 at 1:31am
Mia: Hi Tiffany! Imo, Nicolai Juste un reve is all about jasmine and beach. It is very similar to Guerlain Terracotta which is naturally also an option for those cravings, depending of course how you perceive beach – is it of sea and salt or sun and lotion or something else. Best of luck. January 28, 2016 at 3:51am
Gabrielle Langley: I am still grieving the discontinuation of Mariella Burani’s original fragrance (the simple square bottle with the amber-orange roses on the cap). I also love these scents: Bottega Veneta, Chanel Eau Premiere, Misia and Prada Ambre. I live in the US but travel to EU yearly. Any recommendations are appreciated. January 27, 2016 at 10:19am
Jillie: This is probably a strange suggestion, but the other day I was struck suddenly at how Misia seemed to share some genes with Lancôme’s Tresor! Tresor is more peachy and a bit woodier, but there is something similar in both. And Tresor’s cheaper. January 27, 2016 at 10:25am
Gabrielle Langley: I have never tried Tresor, but have always admired the retro-style bottle. I will give it a try! Thank you, Jillie. January 27, 2016 at 10:54am
Aurora: Also since you like Bottega Veneta: Kelly Caleche a light fruity leather and Cuir de Lancome a light floral one (discontinued but still available online and an iris powdery perfume like Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue or a lighter green powdery one like Chanel No 19 Poudre. All the best. January 27, 2016 at 12:35pm
Gabrielle Langley: Great ideas! I will try all three very soon since all are easily available in stores close to me. ? January 28, 2016 at 3:15pm
Brainfodder: Hello – Quick question which I may post as part of the main thread too… I think I may love Cuir de Lancome (a softer Cuir de Russie according to Tara on Olfactoria’s archives) but I’m UK based and wondering where best to purchase… Amazon seems to pop up. Could anyone advise as to where might be the most reliable point of purchase? Many thanks! January 29, 2016 at 2:57pm
limegreen: Brainfodder — Don’t know if you are still reading, but I got mine from Fragrancenet, a reliable site. It still has Cuir de Lancome available and they ship internationally (though I’m US-based).
I love CdL — it’s more on the floral side of Cuir de Russie, though the two are very similar. January 31, 2016 at 11:44am
Brainfodder: That’s excellent info – many thanks limegreen! It’s on its way and with a 30% discount – even better! February 1, 2016 at 12:59pm
limegreen: Brainfodder — how wonderful that it worked out! I find a lot of discontinued fragrances there. Hope you like Cuir de Lancome. The cap is very loose, apparently this is how all the bottles are, so don’t worry about it being broken when you get it. February 1, 2016 at 10:29pm
Brainfodder: Hello limegreen – not sure if you’ll pick up this comment since the thread is a couple of months old, but on the off-chance that you do, a great big thanks for the CdL encouragement… I completely love it. What a satisfying and delicious perfume. It has joined my top 10, in spite of the violet phase (lets just say the purple Palma Violet sweets have had a detrimental effect on my ability to appreciate violet in perfumery) but I’m still smitten. A punchy and arrestingly perfumery start, and a delicious soft suede dry down. Mmmm….. 😊 March 21, 2016 at 6:15pm
limegreen: Hi Brainfodder — I think Victoria’s reprogrammed the comments section so one gets an email when a comment receives a reply. So I was very happy to hear that CdL worked out for you. Top ten, no less! I find it less “smelly leather” than Cuir de Russie (have only sampled) and really love wearing it in the cooler weather. I don’t get the “violet” in CdL though! March 21, 2016 at 11:35pm
Elisa: Mariella Burani and Eau Premiere are both aldehydic — you might try Divine L’Ame Soeur, an aldehydic floral with a pretty ambery drydown. January 27, 2016 at 7:38pm
Gabrielle Langley: Thank you, Elisa!? January 28, 2016 at 3:16pm
kayliz: I think you might like Guerlain Cuir Beluga. It is not especially leathery and got a bit of a roasting from Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez — and it’s a vanilla — but … just try it:)
Also: Mazzoari Lei. Aldehydic, leathery patchouli-cocoa: grown up, warm and interesting. January 27, 2016 at 8:19pm
kayliz: – Mazzolari — January 27, 2016 at 8:19pm
Gabrielle Langley: These sound very interesting! Thank you, Kayliz.? January 28, 2016 at 3:18pm
Tomate Farcie: Parfums DelRae Bois de Paradis and Wit, Ann Gerard Cuir de Nacre and Perle de Mouse, Serge Lutens Boxeuses, January 27, 2016 at 8:53pm
Gabrielle Langley: Thank you, Tomate Farsi! ? January 28, 2016 at 3:19pm
Gabrielle Langley: Oops! My spell check misfired. Should read:
Thank you, Tomate Farcie!? January 28, 2016 at 3:21pm
Chin C.: I need a recommendation of fresh / green floral for cooler days. Something that is floral, pretty but not loud. I think below are quite close to what I’m looking for:
En Passant – the opening is just perfect but it doesn’t last on me. The dry down is nice but feels a bit flat to me.
Jo Malone Orange Blossom – I think this is a perfect scent, but too summerish
L’ombre dans l’eau – gorgeous scent but a little too linear
Eau de narcisse bleu – this is another perfect scent but is too light for the cooler days
I don’t like jour d’hermes as what I can smell is just the grapefruit. I wish I can detect some white Petals…
I love chypres like miss dior originale, cristalle and they could very well work for me. Is there anything that is less chypre-y that could work too? Perhaps Cristalle eau Verte?
Thanks all!!! January 27, 2016 at 11:01am
annemarie: Chanel No 19? Ralph Lauren Safari? January 27, 2016 at 11:39am
Chin C.: I tried no.19 Edt and caught a strong musky note at the opening that lasts and lasts… Until I scrub it. I can smell some green and some nice floral too but I need to make sense of the animalic note before I can fully appreciate this gem. Will other versions be better? January 27, 2016 at 12:25pm
Hamamelis: You could try Annick Goutal’s Heure Exquise. This is often compared to no 19, but is is warmer and has a lovely sandalwood base. It is still green enough because of the galbanum, and floral because of iris, hyacinth and rose. In case it is not clear, this is one of my all time favourites 😉
I wore Cristalle Eau Verte the other day here (cool weather) and it was very nice. I don’t know if you wear Cristalle in EdT or EdP, EdP is in some ways a bit warmer to my nose. Then there is Ormonde Jayne’s Tiare, close to Cristalle but a more full bodied perfume to my nose, more floral, less chypre. Good luck! January 27, 2016 at 12:38pm
rickyrebarco: You may want to try Annick Goutal’s Matin d’Orage. It’s a fresh, light greenish floral that is really gorgeous with the white florals featured, gardenia, jasmine and magnolia. January 27, 2016 at 11:57am
Chin C.: Read some reviews just now and think this could be perfect. First one on my to try list! Thankssss January 27, 2016 at 12:26pm
PrincessTonk: Guerlain Chamade! Silences by Jacomo (applied lightly). Try Jour d’Hermes Absolu if there is something you like about JdH, without grapefruit. It’s richer and maybe you will like that. January 27, 2016 at 12:18pm
Chin C.: I’m going to try the absolu… I have long wished that someone could just take away half of the grapefruit in Jour and let the flowers bloom. January 27, 2016 at 12:35pm
PrincessTonk: …just thought of Jolie Madame by Balmain. January 27, 2016 at 10:01pm
Aurora: Love Critalle Eau Verte, very citrussy perfect for hot days. Also as you like JM Orange Blossom, Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Neroli Blanc might suit you, it is longer lasting and the best ob I know, A Scent by Issey Miyake shares some DNA with Cristalle, or have you tried Chanel No 19? January 27, 2016 at 12:43pm
Aurora: Sorry just saw No 19 doesn’t work for you so ignore my question. January 27, 2016 at 12:45pm
Theresa: I second the suggestion of Guerlain’s Chamade. It is gorgeous and is one of my favorite fragrances! I am also enjoying very much right now (today, in fact!) my new bottle of Ostara, which I bought after Victoria’s glowing review. This is one of the few occasions where a blind buy has turned out very happily. January 27, 2016 at 1:24pm
Karen (A): Thirding Chamade – was just going to post it, and saw others have recommended it. If you want something crisper, Guerlains Chant D’aromes (which I just found stashed away the other evening) is great.
Tom Ford’s Fleur de Chine may work for you, give it a try. January 27, 2016 at 6:43pm
Tomate Farcie: Neela Vermeire Trayee and Bombay Bling, Guerlain Chamade, Chanel No 19, Parfums DelRae Wit January 27, 2016 at 1:44pm
aromaology2015: Another vote for Guerlain Chamade. I am also loving Estée Lauder Aliage – a recent blind buy for me having read comparisons to No 19 which I also love. January 27, 2016 at 7:33pm
kpaint: I enjoy green florals as well. Baiser Volé EDP is my latest love in this category; Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita and L’Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons are fresh with a tinge of green to my nose; Chanel Beige starts with a green note though it warms up to a more golden tone in the drydown; Carven L’Eau de Toilette is a rich green floral. Sampaquita and La Chasse might be a little light in the winter (or a refreshing change;) the others will hold up well in the cold. January 27, 2016 at 7:47pm
Lynley: I second kpaints suggestions- all pretty florals that bring light to cooler days. Wit is my favourite. I’ll also add VC&A California Rêverie, anything with Osmanthus, Kerosene Pretty Machine, Le Galion Snob, Hermes Jardin Monsieur Li.. January 27, 2016 at 11:51pm
Ariadne: Have you sampled Chanel’s Misia? Quiet and delightful, but complex and elegant. January 27, 2016 at 8:56pm
Dorothy Van Daele: Perhaps Amouage Jubilation 25 (women)? Floral and chypre. January 30, 2016 at 10:30am
Notturno7: Chin C, have you tried 31 Rue Cambon? That one is lovely, too. January 31, 2016 at 4:23am
Amber: Late commenting but a light dab of Jacomo Silences like someone suggested would be fun, also same idea with Fleur no1 by 1000 Flowers. February 2, 2016 at 1:46am
Kris: I really love Keiko Macheri’s Tarifa for cooler days (and warmer. I just really like it!). It’s a green orange blossom with amber in the dry down, so it’s got some warmth under it. I also really like Mito from Vero Profumo. Same sort of crisp green feeling as Cristalle, but a little richer and less austere. February 3, 2016 at 10:52pm
Isabella: Hi! I’m an absolute beginner in terms of perfume and the other day or struck me that I have little experience in detecting notes and fragrances. So I’m wondering if you can help me put together a good list of perfumes that have more linear notes and could be used as reference for different notes and perfume types: orientals, gourmands etc. I’d also welcome suggestions on blog posts or articles recommending reference perfumes if you think that would be better. Thank you! January 27, 2016 at 11:53am
PrincessTonk: Isabella – boisdejasmin.com itself is one of the best references you can use. Victoria has so much information about perfume notes with illustrative scents as well as descriptions of what the notes smell like. This is also the only blog I know of with a numerical rating system. The really helpful articles and info all reside on the right side of the main page. Enjoy the fun hours ahead of you – I still do! January 27, 2016 at 12:26pm
Aurora: I second this, absolutely. January 27, 2016 at 12:47pm
Isabella: Thank you so much, I appreciate it. I have started to go through the notes section and it is really helpful but also a bit daunting! That’s why I’m interested in hearing how others have approached it. But I will continue to take tiny step in educating my nose. January 28, 2016 at 2:21am
aromaology2015: Hi Isabella,
I agree with Princess Tonk – Bois de Jasmin is an amazing resource. Like you I am still learning how to identify different notes and one recent experiment that I found very helpful was this: I bought the Atelier Cologne discovery set – 25 Euros for 25 samples (their full collection) because I find many of their perfumes have very distinctive or prominent notes. Then I sampled each perfume on blotter strips (with the name written on the back). I tested myself over and over again during the course of the next couple of days to see if I could accurately match what I was smelling to each perfume name/notes. It was an interesting exercise and difficult for me due to my lack of experience. However, I really felt I trained my nose to pick out specific notes that previously I would have confused with other notes or just couldn’t identify. The clearer I got about the characteristics of a note I wrote my observations down (this was key for me).
I hope this helps to give you some ideas. January 27, 2016 at 8:19pm
Isabella: Thank you, that was very helpful and also gave me inspiration on how to move forward! At the moment I’m torn between just randomly picking fragrances that I might like and creating some form of structured approach where I’m also learning. This could be the perfect first step and also allow for some indulgence. January 28, 2016 at 2:25am
SilverMoon: Aromalogy2015, this sounds like an absolutely brilliant way of doing it. And yes, I agree writing descriptive words down really is an essential final step. January 28, 2016 at 5:05pm
Lynley: Although I had a background in aromatherapy, perfumes used a lot more notes than essential oils alone, so in my early perfumista days I faniliarised myself with fragrance groups and notes using the decant site The Perfumed Court’s sample lists by note. I printed off some of their lists so when I sampled those on the lists I knew to what group they belonged. I also ordered the sample packs with the most appeal and less availability to try locally. January 27, 2016 at 11:56pm
Isabella: Thanks! That sounds like a good idea and I’must keen to give it a go. January 28, 2016 at 2:27am
Michaela: The BdJ series about perfume wardrobe https://boisdejasmin.com/2011/11/building-perfume-wardrobe-guide-part-1-florals-.html is a delight to read. More, I managed to sample some perfumes mentioned there and this helped me a lot to clarify notes or perfume types and to discover my tastes. January 28, 2016 at 7:42am
Isabella: Oh! I’ve missed this one! What a treat, thank you so much for sharing. January 28, 2016 at 8:10am
Lily: I have skin that pulls certain notes out very strongly, and tends to make the most of sweetness or things that pair with sweetness (I highlight vetiver, tobacco, any of the vanilla-like bases, melon, and other fruits). Last month I got rec’s for dry perfumes and found them too dry, for the most part, so now I am going for carefully curated pairings.
Scents I don’t like: fruit and powder. (Small exception for citrus, and i will sample with skepticism but in generally I am avoiding anything with fruit – a hard task these days! And I am not yet sure which base notes make the powder smell on me, and I have one perfume with it (Ostara) – but it’s often overwhelming and I prefer to avoid it too).
Things I like: woods, spices, florals.
Current wardrobe: Houbigant orangeurs en fleur (go-to), Penhaligon’s Ostara, Burberry London for Him.
What I am looking for are recommendations for an oriental spicy or floriental that won’t have fruit or the powdery dry down. I have samples coming of Parfum Sacre and Opium (new). I am fine with a high degree of spice, though that is not a requirement.
Also open to suggestions of other sorts if my description made something pop to mind 🙂
Thanks in advance! January 27, 2016 at 11:55am
Chin C.: Spicy woody floral:
Penhaligon’s opus 1870. Quite some cinnamon at first, slowly moving towards a very woody rose base. Not too strong but Quite classy! January 27, 2016 at 12:21pm
Lily: Mm, sounds lovely. Thanks! January 27, 2016 at 12:50pm
PrincessTonk: Many Serge Lutens could be made for you although many also have a “stewed fruit” base. Read through descriptions to narrow down possibilities. January 27, 2016 at 12:31pm
Lily: The only Lutens I have sampled is fleur d’orangers (nice but not for me). Any particular suggestions from the line? Or just your personal faves? January 27, 2016 at 12:49pm
PrincessTonk: I’m going through my bottles: Vetiver Oriental (with cocoa), Fille de Aiguilles, 5:00 Au Gigembre, Boxeuses (woody, smoky leather), Bois de Violette (resins, leaves and violet), de Profundis, and Ambre Sultan. I tried to stay away from any fruits, although there may be some in the mix as that is the nature of spice. I don’t LOVE vetiver but Vetiver Oriental is delicious. I may have misunderstood your wish for spices – perhaps it is less than some of these choices. January 27, 2016 at 1:38pm
Lily: Thank you! I am and am not looking for really spicy…I feel like I probably will end up with two in this category, one spicy and one not. So I welcome suggestions in both directions.
Thank you for the starting list – so many Lutens out there! January 27, 2016 at 2:12pm
Alicia: You said that you like woods. May I suggest Chanel Bois des Iles, and Serge Lutens Feminité du Bois? I enjoy them immensely.Both are by now classics. I hope you like them as much as I do. January 27, 2016 at 5:55pm
Lily: The bois feminite stood out on the Lutens list…haven’t sampled that Chanel but it’s a name I’ve seen a lot so probably worth a sniff too! January 28, 2016 at 12:55pm
PrincessTonk: I avoided both fruit and musk in my list, thinking that was what you may see as powder. But I urge you to try Un Lys or Douce Amere if you have access to the non-export line of Serge. Good luck!! January 27, 2016 at 7:09pm
Lily: I honestly have no idea which notes go to powder on me…there isn’t an obvious common element between the 4-5 perfumes I’ve tried that have done it. I will look at these two if I have access…haven’t searched the sampling sites yet. Or retailers either, I see no point sampling something I couldn’t buy if I loved…better not to know! January 28, 2016 at 12:57pm
Amber: I would second the suggestion for Serge Lutens, especially Filles en Aiguilles and Feminite des Bois.
Have you tried Tauer’s L’Air du desert Marocain? It might go too sweet on your skin but worth a try!
Lastly I really love what I have tried of Jazmin Sarai perfumes, Solar’1, Otis and Me and How You Love would definitely be worth sampling. You can get the from the line’s website or Indiescents. February 2, 2016 at 1:43am
Tomate Farcie: Ormonde Jayne Tolu, Téo Cabanel Alahine,
Neela Vermeire Mohur and Trayee January 27, 2016 at 1:22pm
Lily: Thank you! All new fragrances to my radar 🙂 January 27, 2016 at 2:16pm
mj: I’d try Kenzo Jungle (the one with the elephant in the cap). Lots of spices: cardamon, clover and cumin; woods and a bit of sweetness but not much. January 27, 2016 at 1:40pm
Lily: Another great sounding suggestion! Thank you. January 27, 2016 at 2:16pm
Kari: I am extremely new to reading this blog and recently tried L’Elephant after returning to pore over the intriguing review here, over and over. Even then the scent surpassed my expectations. It’s actually got a lot more sweetness amid the spice than I anticipated, but not in a sugary, fruity way-more like the sweet smell you get from walking into a high quality spice shop, and then moving from one section to another to sniff individual fragrances. It’s marvelous and quickly became a Favorite.
https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/10/kenzo-jungle-lelephant-perfume-review.html January 29, 2016 at 12:50pm
Karen (A): Coromandel and 31 Rue Cambon by Chanel are two that might work for you. January 27, 2016 at 6:49pm
Lily: Will look at those two, thank you! January 28, 2016 at 12:57pm
kpaint: I wouldn’t normally recommend this, but since you’re willing to try Opium – have you tried CK Obsession? It’s spicy without any sweetness and has a slightly bitter edge. It can be overwhelming unless judiciously applied, so dab lightly 🙂 I would also 2nd Kenzo Jungle, which on me wears slightly green and not at all sweet. YMMV
Sonoma Scent Studio Winter Woods might be a good wood to try. It is woody but not powdery and is not sweet. Have you explored vetiver? It might be a note that works well for you in the wood category. Vetiver-forward scents are generally not going to be either powdery or fruity. January 27, 2016 at 8:05pm
Lily: I haven’t tried obsession, that one will be easy to sample at Sephora 🙂 – and thanks for the tip about its power! January 28, 2016 at 12:59pm
Lily: RE vetiver, I am still not sure how I feel about it. My skin really amplifies it, so if it is at all prominent in the perfume it becomes the only thing I smell. It is also a lot sweeter on me than I expect from descriptions, lol. But I don’t dislike it? January 28, 2016 at 1:03pm
limegreen: How about Malle’s Noir Epices? It’s got a citrus — orange (to a low degree) and it’s spicy, with some rose, but it’s not fruity or powdery. It’s lovely lovely lovely. (Some reviews have compared it to Opium, for what it’s worth. I don’t think NE is as sweet as Opium.) January 27, 2016 at 9:48pm
Lily: Orange, rose, spice? Mmm. And if opium is a near miss I will try this one straightaway! January 28, 2016 at 1:00pm
limegreen: I see Noir Epices as its own lovely thing, separate from Opium, but it’s a kind of reference point. NE has a dry but opulent dimension to it, and it changes with the weather. January 28, 2016 at 1:15pm
Lily: Good clarification. Sounds very intriguing! January 28, 2016 at 1:24pm
SilverMoon: I second limegreen’s suggestion of FM Noire Epices. It is really lovely, especially on cooler days. Also a spicy one worth trying is Perfumes d’Empire Fougere Bengal; and Profumum Roma’s Arso is an excellent unusual woody scent. There are tons of other great suggestions already so won’t repeat them. January 28, 2016 at 5:15pm
Surbhi: Musc ravageur, poal, le fille de berlin, le labo oud 27, odin no 12, January 28, 2016 at 1:36am
Lily: Interesting suggestions, thanks! January 28, 2016 at 1:04pm
maja: I’d recommend Aedes de Venustas Oeillet Bengale, beautiful and delicate spicy floral. Also Amouage Beloved, so lovely and persistent. Coco Chanel, Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir maybe, too. January 28, 2016 at 7:52am
Lily: Thank you! Several here I hadn’t heard of before. January 28, 2016 at 1:06pm
Cybele: Donna Karen Chaos is a great not to sweet, not too spice-shop spicy perfume. Also try to get your hands on Youth Dew Amber Nude, there are still bottles around January 29, 2016 at 3:18pm
Lily: First, thank you all again for the amazing list of suggestions. I will try to update on this thread when I have sampling notes.
Today I wanted to share my notes on the oriental samples I had picked to try before asking for rec’s, Opium and Caron’s Parfum Sacre.
Opium (the curren, new version) was a near-miss. It had me smiling for about the first half hour at its sharp, fiercely spicy opening. Very bold, but sometimes you want to make a statement. Then the myrrhe took over, and it became a little too harsh for me. I am not sure how else to phrase it. That note coming through so strongly was just too much on my skin, too brassy and off key for my skin or my psyche – honestly not sure which. Also it smelled like my grandmother who has apparently worn Youth Dew for 50 years (and she a minister’s wife! Ha!), so that association made me decide Opium as an almost-but-not -amazing was a pass.
Parfum Sacre was not what I was expecting. I was hampered by a vial not a spray sample, so when it opened with rose I knew I was missing a lot of the spice and citrus opening described in the terrific review of it here and in the ad copy for the fragrance. The rose quickly folded into the most delicious veil of vanilla powder. On my first try I was disappointed by that, yet found my nose coming back to my wrist the rest of the evening and thinking “that really IS a lovely vanilla powder.” When it was time to try one of them for a second time, my nose wanted this one…knowing what to expect? LOVE. Utterly smitten. It’s subtle (IMO) for an oriental, not a brash and brazen fragrance but a harmonious, consonant whole with deceptive depth and sensuality. It turns me on just sniffing it on myself, in this weird reflection of how I think a man would appreciate a woman. So I ordered a bottle from EBay, got it yesterday, writing this I am enjoying the opening as it should be, fully opened up from a light spray vs being dabbed on. So lovely. Funnily enough I can smell the myrrhe here now but it’s in much better balance for my tastes, and a pleasant sharpness/burn rather than a blaring horn drowning out the rest. I will list this one as a perfume that can be gifted to me while it is still available (I have the pre-reformulation) version EDP.
But I do still want to find a spicy floral that doesn’t end in powder so while the pressure is off to find it sooner than later, I now have an amazing pile of rec’s to start exploring at my leisure!!!
Kisses to all of you. February 5, 2016 at 8:55am
Lily: First sampling notes: I ordered samples of Kenzo Jungle L’elephant and CK Obsession for the spicy side of orientals/florientals. Oh, and Penhaligon’s Elixir which I had asked about elsewhere and which also suits this genre. In the dry woods I got samples of Serge Lutens Fille en Aguilles and Bois de Violet (which I decided on over bois feminite for reasons I can’t recall, fruit perhaps?).
Bois de violet was lovely but not for me. Not what I was looking for and not quite right on.
Fille en Aiguilles was…amazing olfactory transportation. I saw it described as standing in a pine forest in summer, and it was very much like that for me. I don’t know that I want to wear it as a public perfume, but perhaps a private one for comfort. It smelled of the woods I grew up in…but I don’t know that it suits me to project that outward!
Jungle is…like a plusher Opium (the new) which was a near-miss. KJLE merges better with my skin, though the resin does come through fairly strongly again. My thought was that it would be great on a man – then realized it hints of my father’s shaving cream, or maybe what his skin does to the shaving cream. Very lovely. I am pleasantly surprised that I don’t get any fruit jumping out at me. Most of the time even when they are obscured on others, my skin finds them and puts them front and center. I will need to wear a few more times to decide if this scent is really me, or merely one I find beautiful and arresting. So very glad I tracked down the sample.
Haven’t tried Obsession or Elixir yet, but the blotter sniff intrigued on both.
Thanks again for all the suggestions! March 2, 2016 at 10:20pm
Dominique: The perfect perfume for me that always people ask me what I wear is L’agent by AP…especially sexy in hot summer evenings…
A pleasant neutral one but very feminine I’d The one by Dolce & Cabana January 27, 2016 at 12:56pm
Lynley: If powdery is an issue then the base of L’Agent (which is beautiful imo) may be a problem. To me it’s just warm and fluffy but i can see it might be called powdery.. January 28, 2016 at 12:02am
elizabeth: Hello! I have a question for Chanel fans. I’ve been enjoying several decants purchased from The Scented Court, and have fallen in love with a few of the Exclusifs, primarily No 22.
I’m wondering what the primary differences are between Chanel No 22 and Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere. To my beginner’s nose, they smell remarkably similar! Love them both. January 27, 2016 at 1:34pm
Sandra: I find the eau de cologne and no 5 premiere to be similar. So funny how are noses work! January 27, 2016 at 2:15pm
maja: I find No 22 to be much more aldehydic, golden and full on ylang-ylang. Eau Premiere is crispier, more airy and lasts less. January 28, 2016 at 7:54am
Eleni: I’m looking for a perfume with rose, powdery or musky notes. I recently tried Teint de Neige, which I loved right away, but I want something a little more subtle, if that makes sense.
The other perfume I love dearly is Narciso. Thank you! January 27, 2016 at 3:39pm
Emily: Hi Eleni
I would suggest trying Tresor, by Lancome (a little old school but a nice 90s classic.) I also love Eau Rose, by Diptyque. It’s light and also has a nice cedar and musky quality to it. January 27, 2016 at 4:14pm
PrincessTonk: YSL Paris is not subtle at first spray but it quiets and you should try it. https://boisdejasmin.com/2012/09/yves-saint-laurent-paris-perfume-review.html
La Fille de Berlin SL is also not subtle at first but is a rose must-try. January 27, 2016 at 7:27pm
kpaint: Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Rose comes to mind immediately. It’s a soft, powdery rose that’s very beautiful and reasonably priced (I got a mini on ebay recently for $3.99!) I think it would appeal to someone who likes Narciso, assuming you mean the EDP in the square bottle. January 27, 2016 at 7:30pm
Elisa: Mona di Orio Musc is a beautiful powdery floral. Somewhat in the same vein: Flower by Kenzo but it’s much stronger. January 27, 2016 at 7:41pm
Tati: I’m not a fan of Montale in general, but I got a sample of Roses Musk and thought it was delicate and beautiful. Got a FB. January 27, 2016 at 8:22pm
Clair: You might want to try Frau Tonis
No. 20 “Sminta”. The notes are: Rose, lily, aldehydes, powder, iris, and it is described as “Powdery, Elegant, Intoxicating”. I am wearing it today, it is lush, feminine and powdery, but not at all overpowering. Frau Tonis is a niche German perfumer: hard to find here but reasonable to purchase directly. Shipping is free with a minimum, and reasonable otherwise and if you’re in the U.S. VAT is subtracted. Also Veilchen (Violet) is another you might like, if you also like Violet. January 27, 2016 at 9:39pm
Eleni: Thank you! I loved YSL Paris when my mother used to have it. I’ll try all the other suggestions (though I can’t find Montale here in Greece). January 28, 2016 at 1:38am
Notturno7: Eleni, I’d recommend Rive Gauche and Nahema, although I heard they are discontinuing the later. January 31, 2016 at 4:28am
girasole: Maybe Drole de Rose by L’Artisan? January 31, 2016 at 7:48pm
girasole: Oh, another powdery rose I just though of is Balenciaga L’Eau Rose. January 31, 2016 at 7:49pm
Eleni: Thank you! I’ll definitely check it out. February 4, 2016 at 5:14am
Emily: I’ve been wearing Premier Figuier by L’Artisan and I love it’s dry, leafy, not too sweet aroma. Any other fig but not too sweet fragrances that can be recommended would be fabulous! January 27, 2016 at 4:10pm
Neva: Try Figue Amere by Miller Harris. It has a nice woody-earthy base. January 27, 2016 at 5:13pm
Emily: Thank you! Never tried it so I’m excited! January 28, 2016 at 12:56pm
AndreaR: Premiere Figuier is a favorite of mine.You might enjoy Diptyque’s Philosykos. January 27, 2016 at 6:58pm
Tomate Farcie: Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio, a couple inexpensive figs Pacifica Mediterranean Fig, Roger & Gallet Fleur de Figuier, Parfums de Nicolai Fig Tea is a nice summer fragrance but fig is a minor player January 27, 2016 at 8:25pm
Chin C.: Un jardin en mediterranee by Hermes, figs with the fruit, leaf, stem, roots and the earth. January 27, 2016 at 10:47pm
Emily: Got a bottle! Thanks for reminding me! I think it got overlooked in my collection. January 28, 2016 at 1:00pm
Old Herbaceous: I echo the recommendation to try Un Jardin En Mediterranee, by Hermes. Very figgy, very lovely, not too sweet. January 28, 2016 at 7:57am
Indigo: I am curious to try some Parfum de Nicolaï scents but there are so many! Any suggestions on where to start?
Things I love: iris, wood, cold spices, almond, jasmine, rose, orange blossom
As in: Feminité du Bois, Portrait of a Lady, No 19 poudré, Après l’Ondée, Nu January 27, 2016 at 4:29pm
Tomate Farcie: One of my all time favorites Odalisque and Ambre Cashmere Intense. I love Temps D’une Fête but apparently available on demand, not sure what that means January 27, 2016 at 4:37pm
Indigo: I couldn’t see any trace of Temps d’une Fête online… I am curious about Ambre Cashmere – the notes sound lovely but overly warm, fluffy perfumes don’t do it for me. Whilst I like amber in perfume, I don’t tend to go for anything that advertises itself as ‘an amber’, if that makes sense! January 27, 2016 at 5:25pm
AndreaR: I enjoy amber in small doses. I find Ambre Cashmere just right and am considering a FB. Eau d’Ete is a summer staple for me. January 27, 2016 at 7:06pm
Elizabeth: Number One Intense may cover the orange blossom, jasmine and there seems to be spice. I can’t make up my mind whether to purchase a full bottle of it myself, or not…… January 27, 2016 at 4:41pm
Nina Z: I would say Sacrebleu Intense, which is one of my favorites of the line. It’s a powerful scent like Portrait of a Lady but scent-wise more is cooler and more in the realm of Après l’Ondée. January 27, 2016 at 5:15pm
Indigo: Your words actually make my heart palpitate. I just knew there had to be some kind of olfactory bridge of cool, spice and floral between Après l’Ondée and POAL. Sacrebleu intense is definitely getting the first skin time! January 27, 2016 at 5:21pm
Nina Z: Whoa! I hope you like it. It’s really quite beautiful. January 27, 2016 at 6:45pm
Tati: You’ve made me want to order a sample! It sounds perfect. Although POAL has all the notes i love, it smells TERRIBLE on my skin. Although I love iris, longevity issues has made me hesitate on Apres l’Ondee. January 27, 2016 at 8:48pm
Indigo: Yes, the poor longevity with Après l’Ondée is why I haven’t replaced my last bottle, even though I love it. Maybe in the summer, as it is a lovely tonic… January 28, 2016 at 12:18pm
aromaology2015: Thanks Indigo!
I sometimes get fixated on having to get my hands on a long lost treasure – don’t we all? – and it is crazy how much time gets sunk into the hunt!
I mentioned the website because there may be other members of the BdJ community who are also trying to find Le Temp d’Une Fete and I think this store may still have a couple of bottles.
I often think it would be great to see on one of the perfume forums a ‘Spotted’ page where members could provide updates on stores/sites where they have spotted bottles of discontinued perfumes still available for sale. Maybe this already exists? January 28, 2016 at 6:04pm
Nina Z: POAL smells terrible on me, too, after the initial beautiful top notes. I believe it is one of the synthetic ingredients that causes this, either the fractionated patchouli or a synthetic wood. I don’t do well with either of those. January 29, 2016 at 10:22am
aromaology2015: I would recommend New York and Weekend à Deauville.
I had also been on a mission to locate one of their last remaining bottles of Le Temp d’une Fete (sadly discontinued) after reading Luca Turin’s rave review in Perfumes – The Guide. In December I got the following response from Parfums de Nicolai:
“Le Temps d’une fête is an historical perfume for your House, and it’s available only in 1 shop in Paris (NICOLAÏ Boutique Sorbonne).
So we can’t send this perfume, if you want to buy it, you can come to us in this shop, in Paris.” Travelling to Paris wasn’t an option for me ;o) However, I was lucky to find that Annindriya Perfume Lounge in The Netherlands still had a few bottles and they were happy to post to Ireland (http://www.perfumelounge.nl). And it was worth it – Le Temp d’Une Fete is a beautiful Spring perfume. January 27, 2016 at 7:58pm
Indigo: Wow, I really admire your persistence! Lucky you, tracking some down. January 28, 2016 at 12:16pm
aromaology2015: Thanks Indigo! Please see my comment above – I seem to have accidentally clicked on the wrong reply button. January 28, 2016 at 6:22pm
girasole: aromaology2015, this is a little off topic (sorry, Indigo!), but how did you manage to get in touch with them? I’ve been trying to track down a bottle of Maharadjah for a while but haven’t had any response when I’ve e-mailed through the website… January 31, 2016 at 7:54pm
aromaology2015: Hello Girasole,
Yes, I had also contacted the repeatedly through their website ‘Contact Us’ screen but got no response. I then messaged them directly through their Facebook page asking for the Customer Service email – took a few days to get a response but the email address is: [email protected]
I finally got a response to my question by emailing that address.
If I was more confident with spoken French I think I would have phoned on of their shops directly.
Good luck – I hope you find a bottle of Maharajah. February 1, 2016 at 1:06am
girasole: Thank you for the email address – I’ll give it another try! February 5, 2016 at 4:02pm
laraffinee: Number One is one you should try. Also, Odalisque, which a lightly spiced floral, and SacreBleu which has a almond/cold spice, almost cardamon tone. January 28, 2016 at 11:03pm
Kate: I’m looking for a new spring perfume. I tend to like fruity, floral, and green perfumes. I like woods too if they’re not overpowering and don’t smell like old people (think bonfire or books, not classy 45-year-old). I’m not a fan of anything that smells like a cleaning product, and gourmands are annoying. I wore Balenciaga Rosabotanica last summer, which I know is a polarizing scent but it smells good on me (probably because the top notes seem to last). This winter, I wore Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay. Last time I sampled perfumes, my favorite was the EDT of L’Ombre dans L’Eau (they didn’t have the EDP), but it does feel a bit summery to me. Thank you! January 27, 2016 at 5:04pm
Jackie: find there are as many “smells of old people” as there are old people. Just as with young people! 🙂
Oldie but goody, have you ever given Chanel #19 a try, Kate? Some of my tastes are opposite to yours (not a fan of fruity florals or big on greens particularly), but I’m with you on being averse to any “cleaning product” note and I love woods. As Victoria says in her review of 19, it does have a green facet and its iris is woody. It definitely says “spring” to me! Her review may convince you if you’re not already a fan.
https://boisdejasmin.com/2006/03/chanel-no-19-perfume-review-vintage-modern.html January 27, 2016 at 5:52pm
Alicia: I am not sure what smells like “old people” My grand mother smelled of lavender in the morning and jasmine at night. I love both.For a spring green floral I think that Guerlain Chamade is a masterpiece. More casual, but delightful is Burberry Brit Rhythm. If you like citrus perhaps you like to try O de Lancome, and Chanel Cristalle. A delightful rose-violet is YSL Paris. Good luck in your search! January 27, 2016 at 6:10pm
Karen (A): Eeek! Seriously, old people?? January 27, 2016 at 6:53pm
kayliz: Classy 45-year-olds… thank ypu for the chuckle, reminded me of tge days when I thought 30 was unimaginably ancient;)
Seconding Cristalle in all its incarnations. January 27, 2016 at 8:33pm
Lynley: I know.. hmmm… January 28, 2016 at 12:07am
Kate: Haha, insert foot in mouth. To be more clear, I perhaps should have said I personally associate notes like oud and sandalwood with people who are have more life experience than me and can carry off heavy scents better. 😉 Thanks for the recommendations, everyone! January 28, 2016 at 2:31am
Victoria: Have you tried See by Chloe or Marni? One is a charming, green fruity floral, and Marni is a sheer rose with a hint of incense. Both are luminous and beautiful. January 28, 2016 at 2:35am
Jackie: I second Marni! January 28, 2016 at 4:57am
Karen (A): Whewww! Thanks for clarifying! A couple that jump to my mind – La Chasse aux Papillion, very pretty and good if you work in close quarters with other people. Bvlgaria’s Omnia line has some beauties – Indian Garnet, Amethyste, and Coral come in a packaged collection (at least I think those are the three), but of course can be purchased individually. (plus prices are reasonable and can be found at Ulta if you are in the US)
La Panthere topped lots of last year’s Best Of lists (or was it the year before?) for good reason. And Tom Ford’s Fleures de Chine although expensive, might be worth checking out. A decant due to cost would be an option. January 28, 2016 at 7:40am
spe: Bel Respiro or Chanel no. 18 (not really green, but an unusual, maturish floral). January 27, 2016 at 10:54pm
Old Herbaceous: Try Penhaligon’s new Blasted Bloom! It has elements of all the things you like and nothing like cleaning product or gourmand, at least to my nose. I love it. Here’s my full opinion on my blog, if you’re interested: https://thewisekangaroo.wordpress.com/2015/12/21/fragrance-friday-blasted-bloom/ January 28, 2016 at 8:02am
Hamamelis: What about Penhagilon’s Ostara? If ever there was spring in a bottle! See Victoria’s review. And at the moment it is on sale on various outlets. January 28, 2016 at 11:55am
Old Herbaceous: Agreed! I love Ostara too. January 28, 2016 at 11:10pm
Jackie: I am in love … nay, obsessed with Dior’s Cuir Cannage from their Privee collection (leather, iris, woody, slightly smoky). I am starting to time my visits to Nordstrom in hopes there’ll be a SA on who doesn’t recognize me! :/ I’ve already sprayed my sweaters and scarves, etc….
Before I spring for the $270 bottle (why only one huge size?), can anyone suggest something similar but less expensive?
Thanks! January 27, 2016 at 5:59pm
Karen (A): Not to be an enabler or anything, but if Cuir Cannage is what you love then just get it – and save your dollars by not buying something that sort of is like it but not quite. (Since smokey, woody iris leathers aren’t my thing I don’t have any suggestions though) Or else layering two with these notes – Bois des Iles + ????.
You might find something close, but if you don’t lovelovelove it, don’t get it as a substitute as it will make you feel sad when you where it and you’ll resent that you just didn’t spend the money (ummm, not that I speak from experience or anything).
I don’t know – I wish like crazy that companies would offer smaller bottles, even if the cost per ml is more. That’s why Malle (Ok, Estée Lauder now) has my loyalty – I love that you can get a 10ml bottle before committing to a 50 (or 100). January 27, 2016 at 7:10pm
Jackie: Hm, I think you’re right. I’ve done the substitute thing before and regretted it. I know I would love it to death and use it up in no time. Thank you for enabling. 😉 Now I just need to come up with a “reason” to “treat” myself and the process will be complete! 🙂
I agree about the smaller bottles! January 27, 2016 at 8:13pm
Karen (A): Cause it’s Thursday? Reason enough for me! January 28, 2016 at 7:42am
Jackie: Oh yes! It is Thursday now, isn’t it!?! January 28, 2016 at 1:11pm
Jackie: PS, I looove Bois des Iles! 🙂 January 27, 2016 at 9:04pm
Clair: Hi Karen, I couldn’t agree more! Sometimes a small decant just isn’t enough, but a large bottle is far too much unless you really wear it. I discovered Frau Tonis, a niche German Parfümerie on a trip to Berlin, and while they do not sell 1 ml. samples (they’ll send a scented ribbon in a sealed pouch) you can purchase 8, 15, 50, or 100 ml bottles, so it’s easy to try many. A good thing for me, since for some reason I discovered my favorites late in the game. As it is, there are many beautiful fragrances out there that remain out of reach in those costly FB’s. January 27, 2016 at 10:32pm
Karen (A): That is such a great way to offer perfumes, in a variety of sizes. I know that creating/manufacturing the bottles, especially if they are unique, may prohibit companies from offering that wide of a range – but I wish more would offer at least a 10ml option.
Now you’ve inspired me to learn more about heir line! January 28, 2016 at 7:22am
clair: Do try them! Obviously I’m currently quite smitten. They seem straight forward and natural to me, which does not mean that they are unsophisticated. A few, like No. 41 Orange, and No. 38 Lily of the Valley are straight up: the Orange is juicy, fresh, sunshine, but nothing complex; and the Lily of the Valley reminds me of my first perfume: Coty Muguet de Bois! My favorites are No. 39 Rose de France (Rose Eucalyptus, Neroli) the rose I’ve been looking for, No.37 Veilchen (Violet, Raspberry, Licorice)…not what you’d expect, and not fruity or sweet; No.20 Sminta (see above), Oud Weiss is interesting and there are many unisex fragrances. I’m almost afraid to share my “secret”, but do let me know what you think if you try them. I did find some of their descriptions difficult to interpret initially, and because I couldn’t purchase samples in the store I ended up coming home with what turned out to be mostly “masculine” scents. Ordering online was actually easier, and the VAT is automatically deducted, also easier! With a few small orders I was able to find several perfumes I love and currently wear more than any others. January 28, 2016 at 5:30pm
Karen (A): The shipping cost to the US may make it not so doable, but they offer such an interesting line! And very happy to see a new independent company. Thank you for sharing your secret! January 29, 2016 at 10:40am
Clair: I was so happy to discover that Frederic Malle and a few other niche perfumers offer travel or refill sizes to purchase, though I’ve yet to take the plunge. I’m happy to purchase more, when I know I love it, but I usually need to wear a fragrance for a while to figure that out, which is why smaller samples often fail. It’s true you have to spend at least 65€ /$70 with Frau Tonis to qualify for free international shipping, but you get quite a bit for that: 3 x 15 ml for some of the gift boxes (prices vary a bit) or 2 boxes of 3 x 8 ml (6 total) which is very reasonable compared to one 10 ml refill from Frederic Malle for $60-$70, for instance, and you can customize the gift boxes. Also they often include a 5€ voucher towards future orders. January 29, 2016 at 2:51pm
kpaint: My solution to that would be to just get a large decant. It’s available at both surrendertochance and theperfumedcourt. January 27, 2016 at 7:35pm
Jackie: Thanks Kpaint! That might be a good idea. January 27, 2016 at 8:13pm
George: I don’t know how the prices work out for you, but I know that here in the UK the privee collections costs are really high (but there is also a smaller bottle available, which might be available where you are soon, so it could be worth asking if it is coming out there). For cheaper alternatives, you might even find Cuir de Russie for Chanel or Cuir de Nacre by Ann Gerard might work for you, both being (here at least) slightly cheaper but also available in smaller sizes. They aren’t an exact fit for Cuir Cannage, but samplingwill you inform you of the differences (which might even be preferable) January 28, 2016 at 5:40am
George: I did a little research. I don’t know what size the 270 dollar bottle is (is it 250ml?), but there should be a 125 ml bottle available. The 125ml bottle is £160 here ( I shopped it recently). 75ml of Cuir de Russie is $160. Cuir de Nacre is $170 for 60ml. So any purchase would be weigh up between initial cost/longterm usage.
Here is a review that outlines the relationship between CDR and CC. http://arabia.style.com/beauty/beauty-guide/fall-winter-fragrances-2014-message-in-a-bottle-luca-turin-reviews-amouage-sunshine-christian-dior-cuir-cannage/ January 28, 2016 at 6:16am
Jackie: Thank you for that, George!! And thank you so much for that great Turin article! It’s no mere coincidence then that my other obsession is Cuir de Russie! Same perfumer! I am living on samples of that one too! I think I’m leaning toward CC.
Turin’s article is very interesting! And his comment that “without introducing any novelty, Cuir Cannage hits a spot exactly midway between richness and clarity, luxury and chic, bitter and sweet” is exactly it for me.
As for price, my mistake. I went to the (US) website and see there are two sizes: I think the size the SA was quoting me at $270 is the smaller size as our CDN dollar is so low right now (the 4.5 oz is $200 US so $270 CDN makes sense.). The larger 8.5 oz size is $300 US so probably $400-ish here. Sigh.
Thank you, too, for the Cuir de Nacre by Ann Gerard suggestion! I will see if I can find it here!
You’ve been very helpful. 🙂 January 28, 2016 at 1:10pm
Jackie: A question, esp for rose aficionados (hi Karen A!): have your tried Byredo’s Rose of No Man’s Land? I think it’s really very nice. A cozy, woody, Turkish rose. Not fresh, but not too dark either. I get an incense vibe, though it’s not on the list of notes. I sprayed it on before bed last night and could still smell it on my wrists this morning, with rose predominant. 🙂
Would love to hear others’ thoughts on this one. January 27, 2016 at 6:09pm
Karen (A): I haven’t smelled it, but loved everything I’ve read about it – actually just sent off for some samples and am kicking myself now for not including it. It sounds right up my alley, though plus just live the inspiration for it. You’ve made sound almost worth a blind buy!! January 27, 2016 at 6:56pm
Jackie: Hi Karen, I’m certainly not a rose expert, but I think you’d like it. I find it very elegant. I’ve been home all day (with both daughters home from school with the flu!) and have been enjoying it’s sillage all day! The only two full-bottle roses I have that I can use as reference are YSL Paris, which this is nothing like 😉 , and Atelier’s Rose Anonyme, which is more comparable. I find the Byredo softer. January 27, 2016 at 8:05pm
Karen (A): Oh no! Hope your daughters recover quickly. It sounds really lovely and I will order up a sample. I wish I wasn’t such a sucker for marketing or whatever the correct term is, but Byredo did a really good job with this one. After all, who doesn’t want to honor the nurses of WW1? January 28, 2016 at 7:27am
Jackie: Thank you for your good wishes, Karen. 🙂
As for marketing, look through the reviews on Fragrantica to see someone’s comment that the nursing idea was borrowed from Lutens. ?? January 28, 2016 at 4:43pm
Jackie: Mind you, Byredo is very generous with their samples if it’s sold nearby. January 27, 2016 at 8:16pm
katherine X (was L): Karen, the Neimans at Tysons carries Byredo – you might check there to see if they have it in a tester. January 29, 2016 at 8:48pm
maja: Oh, yes, it’s lovely and on my wish list! It did remind me a bit of Voleur de Roses. My husband was enthusiast about it, too. 🙂 January 28, 2016 at 9:10am
Jackie: Oh good. It’s always affirming to find someone else — and their spouse — who likes it! January 28, 2016 at 1:13pm
andee: I have tried dozens of peerfumes and bought so many samples ,but still can’t find one I really love.
The wonderful green smell that hits you when you enter a florist’s shop would be wonderful.
On the other hand I used to keep huge vases of tuberoses around the house and loved the floral scent. This too eludes me in a fragrance.
Please help at any price. January 27, 2016 at 6:29pm
Alicia: There are many wonderful tuberose fragrances.
The classic Piguet Fracas, Frederica Malle Carnal Flower, Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle (the top notes may be a shock to start with, but just wait). Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia is a favorite of mine. Delightful florals are Annick Goutal L’Heure Esquise and also Songes; de Nicolai Odalisque, and, if you can order it, Le temps d’une fete; a wonderful green floral is Guerlain Chamade Another is Estee Lauder Private Collection. Do you like lavender, try Caron Pour un Homme and disregard the name, or Burberry Brit Rhythm. Do you prefer roses, Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La rose is very true to the flower, and Guerlain Nahema is a masterpiece. May you have a wonderful scent journey! January 27, 2016 at 6:52pm
Karen (A): Smellbent’s Florist Frig may be just the thing – added bonus is their perfumes are very reasonably priced.
For tuberose, just jump on in to Carnal Flower, again the 10ml bottle is very affordable. January 27, 2016 at 6:59pm
Jackie: OMG, if someone could bottle that florist shop smell! The combination of florals (both fresh and overripe) greens, and soil! Wow!
Since she was about 18 months old, the daughter I’ve mentioned here before because of her incredible nose, would pull me by the hand into the local florists and just stand there with her eyes closed, sniffing! January 27, 2016 at 8:08pm
Jenny Katz: Love that! January 27, 2016 at 8:24pm
Alicia: Jackie, someone tried to bottle the florist shop. I think that the perfume is called Antonia Flowers. January 27, 2016 at 8:33pm
Jackie: Mmm, thank you Alicia. I looked it up and it sounds absolutely beautiful! Not the kind of fragrance I normally wear, but maybe it’s time to spread my wings. 🙂
I also read her wonderful story. Literally the recreation of the smell of a flower shop. Thank you for that. I’m going to send away for samples. January 27, 2016 at 9:12pm
Petunia: A perfume blogger on You Tube, Baptism by Fragrance is her blog name, did a review of her perfume collection. She said the same as Jackie about Antonia’s Flowers in part 2 of her collection. I’ve always wanted to try AF. Might be worth looking up if you are interested. January 27, 2016 at 9:17pm
Petunia: I meant the blogger said the same as Alicia… My apologies… January 27, 2016 at 9:18pm
limegreen: Thanks for telling Jackie, Alicia, so that the rest of us can indulge, too. (It’s so nice when one can get samples of a small line for the cost of shipping.) January 27, 2016 at 10:30pm
Jackie: I think Antonia’s going to get bombarded with sample requests this week! 😉 January 28, 2016 at 12:32pm
limegreen: 🙂 January 28, 2016 at 1:10pm
Aurora: I love the idea of your daughter in florist shop with her eyes closed, smelling the air. She must be adorable. January 28, 2016 at 9:15am
Jackie: Thank you, Aurora. 🙂 She’s 8 now and loves perfume as much as I do. 🙂 We often go out sniffing together. She likes all kinds of things: from the expected Pink Sugar to Fat Electrician by Etat Libre d`Orange. She once described a note at a perfume counter as “goose poop,” and the SA looks offended, but I smelled it, and lo and behold, there was a strong note of a certain lake beach near us that is overrun with geese.
When she really blew my mind though (I think I may have mentioned this on Victoria’s blog at the time) is when I was given a bar of soap that had blended into it various coloured chunks, each a different scent. She smelled each little chunk: of the purple piece she said “um, that purple dried flower” (she meant lavender), the brown was cinnamon, the black was black licorice, and the green she said green tea (!!), and she was correct!!
Future perfumer perhaps? January 28, 2016 at 12:51pm
Aurora: Yes, a future perfumer, I think it’s great that mother and daughter can share their love of all things scented, who knows soon she may want to comment on recommend me a perfume! January 28, 2016 at 3:55pm
Jackie: LOL! Maybe!
It’s kind of amazing. As I’ve also mentioned in an earlier discussion, Katie likes me to read BdJ to her at bedtime to help her get to sleep. Lists of notes are like a soporific for her: I’ll read a list (as V often puts at the end of her reviews) and she’ll murmur half-asleep, “Again.” January 28, 2016 at 4:36pm
Tomate Farcie: Another great tuberose is Hiram Green Moon Bloom January 27, 2016 at 8:20pm
limegreen: Hi Andee — I only suggest Jo Loves No. 42 The Flower Shop because you seem to be on a quest of sorts, and mentioned “at any price”! The perfume is not expensive, but shipping from the UK to the US is (much less within the UK or to the EU.) Or if you happen to be in London, you can go to the Jo Loves boutique in Chelsea. (On the Jo Loves website, you can order a Fragrance sampler set that comes with nice sample sprays of all the current fragrances, and you have half a year or so to make your Full Bottle choice at no additional cost, no additional shipping.)
No. 42 is fresh-cut flowers with cut green stems, with that moisture-laden feel of a florist shop. I think Jo Malone mentions that she wanted the fragrance at the end of a day when there are cut flowers and stems strewn about the florist shop and on the floor. It’s not a dewy kind of floral, but it’s not loud silage either. I have found it to be long-lasting.
Smell Bent’s Florist’s Fridge is interesting, too, but I found it had a little too much cold fridge in it for my skin. 🙂
I love tuberose, the fresh flower, and have sort of decided for me and my nose memory, it’s really hard to capture in a perfume. I love two that have been mentioned already — Tubereuse Criminelle (opening and all) and Carnal Flower.
Good luck! January 27, 2016 at 10:49pm
Lynley: Perfumes generally are meant to be evocative. Evoking nature, evoking memories, creating memories. If you are looking for something that smells exactly the same as something in nature you may find yourself often disappointed. Maybe essential oils or absolutes and natural perfumery may be more helpful, although once something becomes a blend it will no longer smell of one thing, and extracts and essences only capture a percentage of the overall plant. A rose oil may smell like rose but it will not capture the feel of an early morning after a storm has passed, with rose and rain and dirt and electrical storm and the memory of your lovers arms keeping you warm all night. Perfume is more than the sum of its parts. January 28, 2016 at 12:17am
Malmaison: Beautifully put and encapsulates not only why I love perfume itself but also why I love reading blogs such as this one. January 28, 2016 at 3:47am
Jackie: Lynley, your “morning after a storm” description made the hair on the back of my neck stand up! January 28, 2016 at 1:16pm
maja: My recommendation for a wonderful floral is Serge Lutens’ De Profundis. It has that florist shop vibe you’re looking for and is simply gorgeous. January 28, 2016 at 9:07am
Vanie: Have you tried Jo Malone Red Roses? I find it really smells like the flower. January 28, 2016 at 9:28am
Hamamelis: You could order the Puredistance sample set. It contains a few very lovely high quality florals, Antonia (not the same as Antonia’s flowers), Opardu and White. As they are so concentrated a little dab goes a long way. January 28, 2016 at 11:59am
Peppermoon: +1 to Antonia, it’s stunning. Such a smooth, pure white scent. I want to try more Puredistance now. February 4, 2016 at 6:32pm
DaveStPaul: Hi andee:
Many great ideas so far. I’d like to add:
1) Tuberose — Parfumerie Generale’s TUBEREUSE COUTURE. For me it’s the tuberose that smells most like an actual fresh flower. A little more green than most. (Haven’t smelled Moon Bloom yet, tho.’)
2) Florist’s Shop — I get that effect from Le Labo’s IRIS 39. Very green and white, fresh and lively.
Good luck. =:o) January 28, 2016 at 12:04pm
limegreen: DaveStPaul — You know, I adore Iris 39 and you are so right about its effect of green and fresh floral, without being indolic, too. January 28, 2016 at 3:00pm
DaveStPaul: limegreen: It really has such a nice quality, doesn’t it? It stood out when I did a round of iris sampling.
See you ’round the florist’s. Maybe we’ll see andee there as well. =:o) January 29, 2016 at 1:11pm
AnnieA: Jour d’Hermes Absolu has a flower-fridge air to me. Really pretty, and I don’t consider myself a fan of florals. January 28, 2016 at 2:33pm
katherine X (was L): Might also try Gardenia Petale (Van Cleef) which has a “real” floral angle to it – and a bit of florist shop. Seconding Alicia and others on Piguet Fracas and Frederica Malle Carnal Flower for the best Tuberoses. January 29, 2016 at 9:03pm
Kara: Vero Profumo Rozy EDP (not the other concentrations) immediately brought back memories of a floral shop my mom and I would visit when I was a child. February 7, 2016 at 12:40pm
kayliz: When I saw you mention tuberose, I was going to list what for me are the big four — then I saw that Alicia beat me to it:) January 27, 2016 at 8:41pm
Susan: Going through my perfume cabinet today, I pulled out Vero Profumo Rozy voile to give it another try. Since the regrettable($$) blind purchase last year, I just can’t grow to love this unusual gal, despite all the wonderful reviews. Even a small spritz gives me a headache, and It smells unpolished and bitter on my skin, even in the dry down. Anyone else have this experience, and is the EDP that different? I live in Canada, and would be willing to swap the full bottle. I love Amouage Lyric, and thought Rozy would be somewhat similar. January 27, 2016 at 8:46pm
Tomate Farcie: try Neela Vermeire Mohur! I just buy inexpensive perfumes untested as everyone’s chemistry is different. I love Shalimar on everyone else but on me it’s nauseating..go figure January 27, 2016 at 9:00pm
Susan: Yes, Shalimar is a difficult one for me too. It takes a long time to mellow, after the initial medicinal blast.
I’ve sampled Mohur, and it is quite lovely. January 27, 2016 at 10:14pm
Old Herbaceous: I’ve just discovered Shalimar Eau de Cologne, after having tried the EDP several times without success; it’s lovely! It really works for me; luscious but light. And very affordable too. January 28, 2016 at 8:15am
foxbins: I am wondering if you can recommend perfumes with anise or licorice notes–I have Lolita Lempicka and Apres l’Ondee and love them. I prefer scents with excellent longevity, which lets out Hermes, I’m afraid, and a lot of natural perfumes. What else can I try? January 27, 2016 at 9:42pm
limegreen: I love Apres l’Ondee, too. Not too long ago, Elisa had a wonderful post on anise and licorice perfume notes and lots of people chimed in the comments:
https://boisdejasmin.com/2015/03/licorice-and-anise-perfume-notes.html
I get an anise note in L’eau d’Hiver but “excellent longevity” isn’t its game. 🙂 January 27, 2016 at 9:57pm
foxbins: Thanks for the link! There are a couple of possibilities in Victoria’s post. January 28, 2016 at 9:37am
kayliz: I recently discovered Apeiron by Tonatto: licorice and violet, beautifully done.
Have you tried Myrrhiad by Huitieme Art? Myrrh, tea and licorice, my winter staple. January 28, 2016 at 5:13pm
Tomate Farcie: Jicky
Olfactive Studio Lumiere Blanche
Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender January 27, 2016 at 10:08pm
Clair: I also like licorice, anise (but not cumin or fennel seed) as well as cardamom (mmm) as well as clove, but I haven’t found a perfume to love with these notes, yet. I adore Lumiere Blanche, but it seems to disappear in a flash, at least on me! So sad. Victoria recommended Kenzo Jungle Elephant for a non-masculine cardamom, but can anyone tell me how prominent the cumin note is ? I love spicy fragrances, but find that recommendations tend towards dry wood & spices, a more masculine take, whereas I’m looking for more lush spice, creamy sandalwood is fine, but not cedar. I loved Bellodgia in it’s original form, and Penhaligon’s Lily & Spice is reminiscent of that, and I like the spice in Marni & Marni Rose, in the same way I like Burberry Brit Rhythm for Her, but find them very assertive and persistent. January 27, 2016 at 10:53pm
Danaki: Hermessence Brin de Reglisse feels creamy and has that enveloping sweetness, if you’re looking for that licorice/anise hit. It doesn’t last much perhaps and it is a bit airy like most of Ellena’s work. January 28, 2016 at 4:41am
maja: I second Brin de Reglisse and have to add it’s really short-lived but wonderful. January 28, 2016 at 9:05am
clair: Thanks Danaki. Brin de Reglisse is on my list to try. I am not always a fan of Ellena’s work personally. I always like the idea, but there is often something that doesn’t work for me; an airy or aquatic vibe (Iso E Super maybe?), though I keep trying, and this past Summer I came to like Un Jardin sur le Nil, even though I didn’t like it initially, and Brin de Reglisse sounds like something distinctly different.
Thanks for your vote for Jungle, Mia. It’s definitely on my “must try” list! January 28, 2016 at 3:54pm
Mia: The cumin is not at all prominent in Jungle. Go for it! January 28, 2016 at 9:34am
Lynley: Foxbins have you tried LL au Masculin or Kerosene Black Vines?
Lots of the licorice perfumes out there such as Caron’s Eau de Reglisse are the herb licorice root so smell more of herbal licorice tea than black sweet. I love anise smells in perfume too and I know there are some I cant think of now so will have to go think.. 🙂 January 28, 2016 at 12:22am
Katy McReynolds: I heartily second Black Vines and the Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin. I own full bottles of both and everyone gives me their black jellybeans during Easter, so this makes me a subject matter expert. HeeHee. January 29, 2016 at 8:42am
Aurora: Caron Eau de Reglisse is a very good liquorice fragrance, I find no problem with longevity. January 28, 2016 at 5:42am
Aurora: But I should say I agree with Linley it is definitely more liquorice than anis. January 28, 2016 at 5:48am
Aurora: There is Anice by Etro, I love their perfumes. January 28, 2016 at 7:41am
AnnieA: There’s Reglisse Noire from 1000 Flowers. It’s at Indiescents – vaguely remember shipping problems from the direct site. January 28, 2016 at 2:25pm
girasole: I third (?) the recommendation for Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin. I like it even better than the original, feminine version – and it’s more licorice-y to boot! Also, if a vanilla-licorice doesn’t sound too strange to you, maybe try Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille. I got a lot of licorice out of this scent and, if I remember rightly, it’s very long-lasting. January 31, 2016 at 8:11pm
Peppermoon: 1000 Flowers Reglisse Noire February 4, 2016 at 6:39pm
Alison: Help me become sophisticated!
I’ve just started following several perfume blogs last week. I recently got interested in exploring perfume after a trip to Oman and learning about Amouage perfume.
My current favorite perfume is Chance by Chanel. I’ve come to learn this is not viewed favorably by perfume aficionados.
In Oman, I bought a vial of a perfume called Amouage in a souk. I think it’s basically rose oil. I love it. I’m sure it’s not Amouage given the prices of that brand, but since I’d never heard of it I don’t feel ripped off.
Can you recommend some perfumes to explore that will expand my palate?
I like citrusy scents and rose scents. My favorite flower smell is lilac. Another perfume that I do like is D&G’s Light Blue. January 27, 2016 at 11:22pm
Karen (A): There are so many to explore! But for goodness sake – if you like/love Chance then who cares what others think! The oil you purchased would not have been from Amouage if it didn’t cost a fortune – but again, if you enjoy it then that’s great.
There are tons of ways to explore perfumes. You can spend time reading older BdJ posts (always fun), check out some of the 5star fragrances. You can also explore by note – if you like/love rose, then get samples of different rose perfumes.
Or, you can explore lines by different houses – Chanel, Diptyque, Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, etc. Some houses may have a vibe or reputation – but that doesn’t really mean much. There are lots of smaller brands – 4160 Tuesdays, Smellbent and many many more. Or you can explore by perfumer once you realize that you are drawn to fragrances created by the same person.
It’s easy to order samples or decants, it’s also easy to end up with a million samples and decants!
For lilac, En Passant by Frederic Malle is beautiful (on the high end) and Pacifica, a natural line sold at Whole Foods has a very realistic lilac, and is very affordable.
Roses come in a lot of different ways. I listed a couple in response to another comment above, but you can also read up by searching through BdJ articles by note, or on sites like Luckyscent.
Citrus isn’t quite my category, but I do love Lemon Verbena by L’occtaine (not a citrus, but fresh and crisp). Have fun and I’m sure you will find lots of beautiful perfumes to enjoy! January 28, 2016 at 8:09am
Lynley: Karen is right- there are a gazillion perfumes out there and many ways to access them!
I just wanted to add: have fun. Take your time, and most importantly, give things time. You will be used to what you like so there’s a good chance you may recoil at more unfamiliar scents. Put things aside and come back to them. Different seasons and different moods will affect your perception too. Often your sense of smell will seemingly change overnight with a note you hate- one day it’s love! and some you will just continue to hate.
So don’t feel it’s a matter of being sophisticated or not, it’s just a matter of getting used to the unfamiliar 🙂 January 28, 2016 at 8:40am
Aurora: I’m with Karen and Linley, go on enjoying Chance, on this blog we all share, we don’t judge. I have 2 perfumes that mean a lot to me, never mentioned on blogs, Kenzo Madly and Moschino Moschino. They make me happy and that’s what we aim at in our perfume hobby. January 28, 2016 at 9:49am
Michaela: Aurora, well said, I agree 1000% 🙂 January 29, 2016 at 4:54am
Aurora: Hello, Michaela. Thank you so much for your approval; what is your latest perfume discovery? January 29, 2016 at 3:54pm
Michaela: You are perfectly right 🙂
Orange Sanguine, Mito and Le Temps d’Une Fete. Thanks to Rainboweyes, I’m enjoying the samples. These are first on my wish list, but who knows when… 🙂
Speaking of perfumes which are very dear to me, despite no expert talks about them: ScentStory 24 Gold, pure sugar feeling (I suppose it’s amber), sweet and warm for snowy weather, and Al Haramain’s perfumed oils. February 1, 2016 at 3:35am
Aurora: Thank you Michaela! Of the 3 I only know Mito which reminds me of the original Cristalle EDP, and thank you again for having recommended Al Haramain, I now have 2 attars, Gold and Choco Musk from AH. February 1, 2016 at 5:54am
Michaela: You are welcome, and I am happy you like them. February 1, 2016 at 6:59am
Hamamelis: Hi Alison, I visited Oman as well and bought some excellent rose oil in a gasoline station! We also visited the Amouage factory, prices are as high as everywhere. I live in Northern Europe, I and notice that I don’t wear the Amouages I bought (in small sample bottles, no full bottles) often, they are lovely, high quality but not for every day (at least, most of them not).
For you, besides loving Chance, I would suggest buying some sample sets. I loved the Ormonde Jayne sample set when I just fell in love with perfume. L’Artisan Parfumeur also offers sample sets, as does Teo Cabanel and many other houses. I love Annick Goutal as a house, a good perfumery would stock their samples as well, and they have lovely roses, and two great citrusses, Eau du Sud and Eau d’Hadrien. Enjoy the ride, don’t be in a hurry! January 28, 2016 at 11:02am
Sofie: Hi Alison,
Help me becomes sophisticated, had me smile ?. If that’s your only goal, get Chanel N5 and call it quits. But then again, that icon of sophistication isn’t liked/loved by all (many?) perfume aficionados, although most of us appreciate the quality of it. So there… You like Chance? Good for you!
All right, some fantastic recommendations higher up, here’s my two cents…
Smell everything you can get your hands on. I’ll guarantee you, at first you won’t like much. But at this point, liking isn’t the point. You have to learn what you like and in order to do that, you’ll have to smell. Either get yourself some sample sets or spend some time at your local perfume counter. For instance, since you like Chance, why not sniff all of the flankers and do a bit of a comparison? This I like, why? Is it the freshness, the opening, the dry down, the sweetness, the ‘feel’? This I don’t like, why? Too heavy, too powdery, too sweet? Branch out to the other perfumes on the Chanel counter, and work your way from there. That’s how I did it, and still do ?.
In the mall, you might try Stella from Stella McCartney for rose and try out some colognes to get a feel for citrus.
Read reviews after you’ve smelled perfumes. And then smell them again.
Don’t worry about singing out individual notes and see them more as a guideline of what you might like.
Give it time.
Amouage has great discovery sets by the way, if you want to get to know the real deal ?.
Have fun and enjoy the journey!! January 28, 2016 at 7:39pm
Melina: Hello, Could you comment on Peoneve Pehnaligon’s?
Thank you. I love your blog and the way that you express your thougths. January 28, 2016 at 4:50am
Aurora: Oh sorry, I haven’t tried this Penhaligon’s and I absolutely love Peony. I saw Victoria refer to it somewhere in comments but unfortunately I don’t remember where. Do you know Yves Rocher Pivoine (French for peony)? I think l’Occitane en Provence has a peony fragrance too. January 28, 2016 at 10:22am
Fiona: Hi,
I’m looking for a creamy sandalwood. Something between EL Sensuous (too sweet) and Tam Dao (too dry). I currently wear Eau Duelle quite often, and love the vanilla tinge in that – I guess I’m looking for that, but more sandalwood, and with whipped cream folded through? Thanks for any suggestions! January 28, 2016 at 6:46am
Aurora: Have you tried the Serge Lutens sandalwood, there are 3 and they are worth trying: Santal Majuscule, Santal Blanc and Santal de Mysore (but it has cumin not the easier of note). Also I was referring to Etro above and their Sandalo might be good but I should say I haven’t tried it: it has vanilla in the base so might suit you. Good luck January 28, 2016 at 7:48am
Fiona: Thank you, Aurora! I’ve tried SM and found it overwhelmingly sweet (a problem I have with many Lutenseses). I’m going to Paris in May, tho, so I will go to Palais Royal and try the other two – they definitely intrigue me! I will try the Etro too; thanks for your suggestions. January 28, 2016 at 9:15am
Aurora: Oh, great about your going to Paris, have a lovely time, perhaps comment again if/when you find your ideal sandalwood. January 28, 2016 at 9:27am
Karen (A): Frederic Malle’s Dries Van Noten is a gorgeous sandalwood. Not sure if there’s whipped cream folded in, but it is wonderful! January 28, 2016 at 7:51am
Fiona: My husband actually bought me this for Christmas! I’d tried it on paper and loved it; on my skin, the first four hours were… not pleasant. Stark, astringent, standing far away from my skin… it just didn’t meld with me. After four hours, though, it was gorgeous! In view of that I decided to exchange it for a smaller Musc Ravageur + Alaia edp, both of which work beautifully on me. January 28, 2016 at 9:19am
Fiona: And to add to what I said above: I think it’s not only skin chemistry, but environment that makes a huge difference in how fragrances perform. I’d first tried DvN in London in Autumn – the weather was cool, grey and humid, and it seemed to make the perfume bloom with warmth. In the Barcelona ‘winter’, it just wasn’t right (this winter is very mild, dry, and dusty as it’s hardly rained in months). January 28, 2016 at 9:25am
Mia: Hi Fiona! Almost my question but I would like to have my sandalwood with a bit of ylang ylang. If that sounds good to you, too, I’d recommend Caron Nuit de Noel. The vintage parfum is splendid but I like also even the contemporary edt and all other formulas. January 28, 2016 at 9:40am
Surbhi: Hey, I found first Musc Ravageur fan !! yay !! I am crazy about it !
I didn’t like Dries Von NOten initially. Then I tried it again after few months. It is slowly growing on me. January 28, 2016 at 1:19pm
limegreen: Hi Fiona!
Do you have access to testing Mona di Orio? The Vanille may be worth testing — I’m not fond of very sweet vanilla, so Eau Duelle is right up my alley. Even more so, MdO’s Vanille is quite the non-sweet vanilla but with lovely lovely woods, slightly smoky and yet creamy. There’s sandalwood in Vanille and it’s the right dosage for me, don’t know how much you are looking for! January 28, 2016 at 12:08pm
Tomate Farcie: Olfactive Studio Lumiere Blanche, parfumerie Generale Cadjmere, Sonoma Scent Studio Champagne de Bois, Chanel Bois des Isles January 28, 2016 at 12:50pm
Hamamelis: Hi Fiona, I am wearing Neela Vermeire’s Trayee now, and to my nose it is a delicious creamy sandalwood. Ofcourse there are also other things going on, spices, some incense, but to me the sandalwood is really standing out. January 29, 2016 at 7:10am
Mia: Hi all you perfume lovers! I can’t say I’m in any way new to perfume addiction but even though I have read BdJ for years, I have only about month ago “said” anything here. I however feel like I knew some of you regular readers very well already :). Thank you for having been sharing your thoughts and knowledge here!
To the point: I love the combination of sandalwood and ylang ylang, and consequently e.g. Caron Nuit de Noel. I would like to find some let’s say more modern interpretation of the combo. Andy suggested Smell Bent Pepper & ylang for someone lately. That sounded lovely and I will test it at some point, but any other suggestions if you have, please? Also other types of sandalwood interpretations are welcome! January 28, 2016 at 9:58am
Jenny: I really like Guerlain Terracotta Le Parfum. Givenchy Ysatis is also very good. January 28, 2016 at 11:39am
Mia: Thank you!
Ysatis is wonderful, and it was my first own perfume back in 80’s. I should get back to it.
I have twice quickly tested Terracotta, I liked it a lot. I also like and own Nicolai’s Juste un reve and found those two quite similar. Do you know Juste and if, what do you think about the comparison? January 28, 2016 at 1:34pm
Aurora: And here’s another one: Tom Ford Santal Blush. January 28, 2016 at 12:13pm
Mia: Thank you Aurora! I will try it; the notes sound promising. I have somehow passed it. January 28, 2016 at 1:39pm
Sarah: Nice to meet you, Mia! 🙂 I recently fell in love with Nuit de Noel and I also would like to know what other similar perfumes I could try. Someone recommended Diptyque Tam Dao for sandalwood in another thread so I’m planning on getting a sample. January 28, 2016 at 12:14pm
Mia: Nice to meet you too Sarah! NdN really is a wonderful and unique scent. I have heard J’adore extrait would also contain sandalwood and ylang but I have no access to it – if not traveling. If you have, give it a try.
I like Tam Dao very much but use those two for totally different purposes and moods. I can recommend it though! January 28, 2016 at 1:47pm
limegreen: Not sure by modern interpretation you mean by a new modern perfume house, but Guerlain’s classic, Samsara is sandalwood and lots of ylang. It is a Guerlainade interpretation of sandalwood, so kind of SWEET.
If you’re going for the very affordable sampler set to get Pepper Ylang, Smell Bent also has two sandalwoods — Bollywood or Bust (with rose) and Sunshine (w/orange, vanilla).
Don’t laugh but Adam Levine for Women is a very good sandalwood, with florals, and as it is discontinued, you can find at TJ Maxx/Marshalls and online.
The classic sandalwood is Tam Dao, but it does not have any floral complement to it, very dry and woody. January 28, 2016 at 12:21pm
Mia: Thank you limegreen, great suggestions! I certainly won’t laugh at your Levine for Women but aim to test it. It is exactly the type of suggestion you can only get here from you experts.
I like Samsara and Tam Dao, actually quite lot, but have some and crave new ones. In my book they are modern enough. Modern is not a very good term here; I tend to think that anything released after 1980 is modern =).
Great tips for studying Smell Bents! I was about to test “the whole line” but they have quite a variety so now I know what to pick. January 28, 2016 at 2:08pm
limegreen: Ah, sorry to misunderstand your original “quest” about sandalwood, Mia!
I know all about craving something new on a familiar theme. I wrote to Fiona above about Mona di Orio Vanille as it has sandalwood, but not a heavy dose of it. It may be fun for you to take for a test drive.
Malle’s Dries van Noten is sweet sandalwood and speculoos cookies! 🙂
Do have fun with exploring Smell Bent. 🙂 January 28, 2016 at 2:57pm
limegreen: Two other possibilities:
Houbigant Iris des Champs (beautiful iris and ylang, with soft sandalwood in the base)
Ramon Monegal Impossible Iris (iris and ylang, no sandalwood though) January 28, 2016 at 3:53pm
Mia: No probs, thank you for further suggestions; I am thrilled to test something new! Dries van Noten has been on my list for long, but now I will proceed with it really. I’ll try also Mona di Orio Vanille, since you describe it not being sweet. Also the irises will get tested. I am not usually very keen in iris but I have not tested any combined with ylang.
Btw. I already ordered blindly some Adam Levine – under the price of most of my testers. Childlishly happy :). January 28, 2016 at 10:56pm
limegreen: Oh no, I hope you won’t regret the blind buy! It’s a fun bottle, at the very least, looks like a mike.
For what it’s worth, the Levine perfumer is the same one who did Tom Ford’s Santal Blush, recommended by Aurora above.
(I think he’s also the nose behind Mystique, Wit and Divine edp.)
(And MdO fragrances are not sweet, generally speaking, though there’s sweetness.)
Have fun! January 29, 2016 at 9:40am
Mia: I will for sure! I desperately need some scented fun. No worries over the blind buy. It was so affordable that it is easier to buy to test it than travel to test it, at the moment. The perfume scene in the small town in central Finland where I live now is depressing.
And it is a Vasnier after all, like you pointed out! As you can see, there is some serious perfume addict reasoning going on here :). January 29, 2016 at 9:47pm
Hamamelis: Hi Mia, it is a different direction but have you tried Chanel no 5 Eau Premiere? One of the reasons I love it is exactly because of the ylang ylang and sandalwood in the base. Ofcourse you also get aldehydes and jasmin…but it is so wearable. January 29, 2016 at 7:08am
Caroline: Agree 100%, Eau Premiere’s sandalwood is a standout (happen to love ylang as well, but EP is sandalwood-dominant on me). Mind you, I have the 2007 version, not the 2015 one, so there may be a difference. January 29, 2016 at 4:49pm
Mia: Thank you Hamamelis and Caroline for a great reminder! I can’t see why I have ignored Chanel no 5, even though I like it in all the concentrations, thus get along with algehydes too. I remember preferring the earlier no 5s over Eau Premiere but I need to retest them all. Happily, these Chanels are available also here in periphery. January 29, 2016 at 10:14pm
Mia: …and aldehydes it is. Don’t know what my auto-correction has been reading… January 29, 2016 at 10:19pm
Therése: This winter I surprisingly fell in love with Enchanted Forest from The Vagabond Prince. (Notes from Luckyscent: pink pepper, aldehydes, sweet orange, flower cassis, blackcurrant leaf, hawthorn, effects of rum and wine, rosemary, davana, blackcurrant buds absolute, CO2 blackcurrant, Russian coriander seed, honeysuckle, rose, carnation, vetiverm, opoponax, Siam benzoin, amber, oakmoss, fir balsam absolute, patchouli, castoreum, cedar notes, vanilla, musk.)
It’s a sort of fruity sweet blackcurrant on my skin. I think the price is pretty steep though, so I wonder if anyone can recommend me something similar, only more affordable. January 28, 2016 at 9:59am
Aurora: I can’t be certain that you’ll feel the same way about a replacement but here I go: I immediately thought about YSL In Love Again. Have you tried it? I find it a very well done blackcurrant perfume and it is more affordable than the Vagabond. January 28, 2016 at 10:10am
Therése: Ah, that’s a great tip. I’m absolutely going to try it. January 28, 2016 at 10:24am
Hamamelis: I like In Love Again also very much, nose is J.C. Ellena. January 28, 2016 at 10:55am
Aurora: Hello, Hamamelis. How are you today? Oh, so glad you approve, I must confess I’m a big JCE fan. I had fun – some revisiting and others discovering all YSL fragrances over Xmas and ILA really seduced me. Which is the fragrance you last discovered. January 28, 2016 at 12:02pm
Hamamelis: Hi Aurora, so kind of you to ask. I am well on the mend, but that means a bit too busy again to soon! So we are going on a holiday coming weekend, to Abu Dhabi, just reading under a parasol and nothing much else…maybe maybe a little bit of sniffing 😉
I am a JCE fan as well, though currently Duchaufour is number one! In Love Again is such a happy happy scent, I look forward to wearing it again once temperatures will rise somewhat. Warm wishes! January 28, 2016 at 3:14pm
Aurora: So glad you feel better, it was much too long this illness, it must have been so dispiriting, and take things easy for a good while to make sure you don’t relapse. Enjoy your trip, and I hope you find wonderful scented things in Abu Dhabi. When you come back, and have a chance maybe write your impressions, I’d be so interested to read them. January 28, 2016 at 4:05pm
Aurora: Thank you Therese: I hope it won’t disappoint. January 28, 2016 at 12:38pm
crikey: How about Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn) from 4160 Tuesdays? It seems to be a rather polarising scent from the reviews I’ve seen, but I get a lot of blackcurrant leaf from it, and lovely layers of hay and grass and oakmoss underneath the peach. January 29, 2016 at 6:10am
Therése: Oh that sounds intriguing! I will find a sample. Thank you! January 30, 2016 at 4:24am
Surbhi: HAs anyone tried the FM launch Monsieur yet? January 28, 2016 at 8:14pm
George: No, but let us know what you think if you do please! (I’m alos near a place that should stock it on Thursday; I might go and try, and will let you know if i do) January 31, 2016 at 2:14pm
laraffinee: IN SEARCH OF: A walk through a fragrant Rose garden perfume. I have many perfumes with rose in them, but I have yet to find a fabulous, rich Rose soliflore and I have looked and looked and tried and tried. Perhaps I am looking for a Unicorn perfume, that just like the florist shop discussion above can only be found by walking into a florist shop, or the scent of fresh blooming violets or lily-of-the valley. Has anyone found a fabulous Rose soliflore? January 28, 2016 at 11:18pm
Karen (A): Jo Mallone’s Red Rose is a very good rose without anything else distracting from the rose. Not too bad longevity for JM. January 29, 2016 at 10:48am
laraffinee: Thanks, I will check hers out! January 29, 2016 at 4:56pm
laraffinee: Thanks for the suggestions! I have so many perfumes with a Rose prominent scent, such as Andy Tauer’s Rose fragrances (Incense Rose, Rose Flash and L’air du Desert Marocain), and Nahema, Chanel No.5, Beautiful, Evening Rose, Joy, 1000, and more. However I am looking for a garden rose that is rich and fresh at the same time. Aerin’s Rose de Grasse is close, but not it either. I may just have to plant more roses in my garden and sit out there. January 29, 2016 at 5:09pm
Therése: I will echo the recommendation of Les Perfumes de Rosine, the sampler in particular.
Also, Deep Roses by Montale.
I haven’t tried Frederic Malles Un Rose, but it also sound like it would be a good fit. January 30, 2016 at 4:33am
Aurora: Have you tried Annick Goutal Rose Absolue? It’s one rose perfume that doesn’t turn sour.
Also, I suggest you get the sampler of 15 scents from Les Parfums de Rosine, it’s really good value at €25 and you would probably find one you like among them. They give descriptions of the perfumes on their site, check it out, I think they ship worldwide.
I’m sure you will get more comments. January 29, 2016 at 5:56am
Katy McReynolds: Acquire a sample of Slumberhouse Sadanne extrait. I have likened it to sitting on a stump in the Pacific Northwest eating raspberries while wild roses bloom all around. I find it remarkably beautiful and evocative. January 29, 2016 at 8:47am
laraffinee: Definitely sounds like it is worth sampling that one! January 29, 2016 at 4:59pm
laraffinee: I think it is discontinued and replaced with another one, “Rose Splendid”? Have you smelled both by any chance? January 29, 2016 at 4:58pm
Aurora: Discontinued? So sorry about that, it’s one of their best! I don’t know Rose Splendide, only Victoria’s review of it. January 30, 2016 at 5:36am
laraffinee: I think Goutal’s Rose Absolue is discontinued and replaced with Rose Splendide. I read Victoria’s review of both (so well done, thank you, Victoria!) and it seems that Absolue is more of what I am looking for. Perfumes de Rosine don’t have a US distributor, so I would have to import it – are they worth it? January 29, 2016 at 6:16pm
Aurora: Sorry, I wasn’t sure where you lived, the sampler is very good value however especially with the strong dollar. If you go to the Rosine site you can find out how much shipping would be. It’s just that it’s all rose perfumes and might help you find ‘the one’. January 30, 2016 at 5:40am
Kari: Hello all. Relatively new reader here, and in my early 30’s I’m finding myself suddenly drawn to building a fragrance wardrobe.
For years Hanae Mori Butterfly has been my staple, but I really only wore it for “occasions” vs. having a scent every day.
This summer after having a difficult time personally I started exploring scents as a pick me up. I got my hands on a couple of Lush Cosmetics’ best (but limited edition) scents, namely Rose Jam (a citrusy rose, but not powdery); Lord of Misrule (a delightful and mysterious vanilla, black pepper, and patchouli blend that overcame my patchouli aversion), and Yog Nog (very foody and strongly spiced of nutmeg and cocoa.)
After reading this blog and exploring, I decided to try Kenzo Jungle L’Elephant. I LOVE it; I was intrigued by the description of layered spices but wasn’t prepared for how pretty it is too. I worried before I smelled it that it would be “too much” on me, but it’s extremely good with my body chemistry, and I love smelling a whiff of something different every time I turn my head.
I am planning to try Lolita Lempicka (I have a feeling the composition will be better for me than Angel, which was a little sharp) and Etat Libre D’Orange Fils de Dieu.
Any other recommendations I ought to “look” at? (Or sniff at, I guess, but the phrasing sounds strange.) January 29, 2016 at 12:38pm
aromaology2015: Hi Kari,
I’d recommend purchasing some discovery sets to help you get a clear idea about some of the notes you are drawn to. I find being able to take my time to fully explore samples in the comfort of home so much better than testing many perfumes in a store – also you won’t feel under pressure to purchase a full bottle. Some discovery sets can be great value if you buy from the companies website and are fully redeemable against the cost of a full bottle if you fall in love with one of the perfumes. The sets I loved and would highly recommend are: Atelier Cologne (25 Euro for 25 samples), Olfactive Studio (45 Euro for 7 large samples). A more expensive discovery set, again fully redeemable, is from Parfum MDCI (140 Euro for 8 huge samples of 14 ml each). Also try to get yourself some perfume blotter strips so that you can keep going back to review each perfume as it develops over the course of a day. If you can’t get these, a mist of the perfume on facial tissues or stripes of cotton would work. Write down your impressions of each perfume over the course of the day. You’ll start to identify the particular note or fragrance types you are drawn to.
In stores, try to spend some time testing the classic Estée Lauder, Chanel and Guerlain.
I hope this helps – happy testing! January 29, 2016 at 6:45pm
Kari: Thank you so much for the recommendations. I have been wanting to try samplers/starter sets but wasn’t sure where to start. This is a GREAT list.
Yes, when possible I spray scents on a paper strip and take it home, going back to it over time. When the scent wears down a little I use the strip as a bookmark as it makes my books smell lovely. I should say that I’m in the US/Pacific Northwest region, so most of my in-store sampling has been at Sephora, Nordstrom, and other large dept. stores. I haven’t explored the local niche perfume scene here yet. I need to spend more time with Estee Lauder, though – I’m not sure why, but none of their perfumes I have sniffed has really grabbed me.
I should also add that I’ve definitely taken Victoria’s recommendation to accustom my nose to classic scents, beyond those that I was already familiar with (via family members’ perfumes that I grew up sniffing.) I don’t remember the names of a lot of the scents that intrigued me as a kid, as I was more drawn by the bottles, so re-exploring scents has been a walk down memory lane. My Nana wore Chanel No. 5 (and I think a few other Chanel scents, but I can’t remember which.) Chanel No. 5 and cigarette smoke remind me of standing at her bathroom vanity.
What I’m trying is not to look at the ingredients until AFTER I sample a fragrance; I do a little too much judging a perfume by the list of ingredients that I think I’ll like, vs. sampling interesting scents and then trying to detect notes that appealed to me. For example, I like Shalimar a lot for the first couple minutes, but when it sinks into my skin it seems like the bergamot gets bitter.
What has helped me, I think, is that I have honed my nose (and palate) on high quality teas for years.
I like cardamon, clove, and nutmeg a lot. I enjoy rose when it’s tart but not powdery. I love potent jasmine, but need to be in the mood for the depth and sexiness of the fragrance. (Lush makes a great jasmine fragrance, Lust, that I really like.)
I strongly dislike patchouli, but I love some of the perfumes that use patchouli as a background accent. I’m a bit turned off by the waxy fragrance of aldehydes. I have a super soft spot for custardy vanilla. January 29, 2016 at 7:36pm
Surbhi: try must ravageur if you get a chance. It smells like clove and vanilla to me. There are other notes too but i smell these two mostly. January 29, 2016 at 10:09pm
Kari: Surbhi, thank you; I haven’t encountered Musc Ravageur before but it sounds alluring. I will see if I can get my hands on a decant or sample. January 29, 2016 at 10:33pm
Victoria: If you like Jungle but want something softer, I recommend Olfactive Studio Lumiere Blanche. It was inspired by Kenzo, but it’s in a different key. January 30, 2016 at 8:37am
Kari: Fantastic – thank you! I LOVE wearing Jungle, but it *is* strong – to avoid overly assaulting passers-by with the scent, I use one spritz and walk into the spray as it diffuses. I’d only dare to spray directly at my skin if I knew I was going to be in a setting where strong scents aren’t going to offend, as I’ve run into so many people with fragrance irritations/allergies.
Your review of Lumiere Blanche sounds intriguing; I’m seeking out a sample. Cardamom is so much fun even though it doesn’t last very long. I really like anise accompanied by spices in teas, so I’ll be curious to know if I enjoy it as much in perfumes (like Lolita Lempicka.) January 30, 2016 at 12:55pm
Kari: A review of first two samples:
Etat Libre d’Orange:
I was not sure I liked it from the top notes, which seemed very intense, leathery and smoky with a starchiness that made my nose wrinkle when I buried my nose in my wrist. I liked it when I sniffed at a greater distance-lesson learned (perhaps somewhat like how I need my curry on the mild side, I need to spray this perfume with a light touch.) After 20 minutes, that’s when the creamy basmati rice and zesty lime hit me. (Is my nose backwards?) This is a fragrance that is challenging to my nose, but in a great way. It’s an interesting experience and gets creamier, more coconut and popcorn basmati rice with musk, as I wear it. This could be the perfume that turns me onto leather notes. It is the kind of scent I would need to be “in the mood” for, though.
Lolita Lempicka:
I gasped when I sniffed this one and said our loud to myself, “It’s like Angel but PRETTY!” (Sorry Angel lovers-gut reaction here. It’s too discordant for my nose.) I’m typically more into vanilla sweetness than florals, but the vetiver and anise add so much intrigue and depth. I feel utterly gorgeous wearing this-no other way to say it. Love! February 1, 2016 at 10:12pm
Brainfodder: Hello – Quick question… I think I may love the discontinued Cuir de Lancome [a softer Cuir de Russie according to Tara on Olfactoria’s archives – my favourites include 31 RdC, Bois des Iles, Egoiste (the spicy one!), L’Air du Desert Marocain and I’m a compulsive department store sniffer of CdR and Dior’s Cuir Cannage….] but I’m UK based and wondering where best to purchase or sample… Amazon seems to pop up. Could anyone advise as to a) whether you think it may be a good fit to my tastes and b) where might be the most reliable point of purchase? Many thanks! January 29, 2016 at 3:08pm
Joyce: My college boyfriend’s mother gave me some of the original Balmain Vent Vert many years ago; I understand the 2 reformulations since are quite different from the original. Any suggestions as to which not-prohibitively-expensive current day fragrances are closest to the original Vent Vert? Thanks! January 29, 2016 at 10:17pm
katherine X: Joyce, Please see my comment below.. I replied at the wrong link. January 30, 2016 at 6:27pm
Mia: Hi Joyce! You have probably checked Victoria’s post of Vent Vert and the formulations but here it is
https://boisdejasmin.com/2007/02/balmain-vent-vert-perfume-review.html
The 1990 version is good and affordable and I would not try anything else as a substitute. It is not like the original but still easily recognisable and green and lovely. The caps of the bottles tell you what version it is, but of course your nose and tastes are the ultimate authorities.
Best of luck! January 30, 2016 at 10:46pm
katherine X: Hi Joyce, In case you hadn’t seen it – here’s a link to Victoria’s piece on the vintage and reformulated Vent Vert. You might find helpful info here! https://boisdejasmin.com/2007/02/balmain-vent-vert-perfume-review.html
Good luck! January 30, 2016 at 6:25pm
Joyce: thank you so much for the reassurance that the 1990 formulation of Vent Vert is fine! January 31, 2016 at 12:05am
Notturno7: I just decided to make a blind purchase of vintage Jolie Madame and Vent Vert. I read about them and they sound amazing.
I looked on eBay. Anyone knows of other websites where I can look? January 31, 2016 at 4:33am
Victoria: Ebay is your only choice, but it’s risky. February 1, 2016 at 6:32am
Tam: I would like to find a place to swap decants or bottles that need to be rehomed. Is there such a place? February 1, 2016 at 2:30pm
Victoria: Basenotes, Perfume Posse and Now Smell This blog do swaps. February 2, 2016 at 12:13pm
Tam: Mia, I found it the same way. My mother had a bottle and she wore it briefly in the late 60’s. She enjoyed a variety of beautiful fragrances, especially florals like gardenia, jasmine and honeysuckle.
My taste is quite different. I love Je Reviens and over the years notice similarities in other perfumes. The lovely disc shape and gorgeous blue glass-or the stars on the globe with blue perfume inside It’s really only in the last 4 years I discovered perfume blogs and am learning about their accords. Great, great fun! According to Je Reviens list of notes on Fragrantica it’s got everything but the kitchen sink of great notes! Hard for me to name what makes it irrisistible, but if I had to choose I would say maybe narcissus, hyacinth, lilac, sandalwood, musk. Super balanced scent. Theres something else in there that reminds of carnation or clove that I really like too. February 1, 2016 at 2:22pm
Lou-Lou: Hello all,
I’m very new to this site, and I apologise if this question has already been addressed and I welcome any links/advice. I have loved fragrances for years, but it has recently come to my attention that my entire office is sensitive to fragrances. I’m a compassionate person and do not want to cause harm to those around me, but the idea of not spritzing on a fragrance before leaving the house feels akin to feeling undressed for myself personally. Is there a fragrance that anyone could recommend that would be considered inoffensive or undetectable should someone be next to me? (For the record, I don’t douse myself, I only spritz once at the base of my throat and typically wear edp), or do I should I simply start looking for another job? February 1, 2016 at 3:07pm
Victoria: Which perfume are you wearing, Lou-Lou? One option is to find very low-key, low-sillage (low trail) perfumes. Or in the morning to try colognes, which need not be the classical citrusy kinds, but can be floral, green or fruity. They have a bright uplifting start, but then they generally drydown to a very mild base. They might be enough to give you a boost in the morning but not be detectable by others. Jo Malone, Atelier Cologne do many such perfumes.
And you can always make a little decant of your favorite richer perfume to keep in your purse for later, for when you leave the office and head back home. February 2, 2016 at 4:00am
Lou-Lou: Dear Victoria,
Guilty confession time… I love to wear Guerlain Shalimar, but I also rotate between Narcisco Rodriguez For Her during the day, depending on my mood. I constantly get compliments every time I’m hugged and greeted, which makes giving it up all that harder as who doesn’t like compliments?
I decided yesterday to not wear any fragrance to work, but it backfired on me anyways. I sprayed a little bit of Mermaid No 1 hair shine onto my hair and didn’t think anything of it. One of my managers walked in at 10am and immediately asked “who is wearing coconut?”, it took an hour to isolate the scent to my hair.
She left work with a migraine by noon and I had to have the humiliating talk with my other manager about how insensitive and disruptive I am to work. I probably should note that I recently started with this department January 2016. I’ve never had any “discussions” on this topic at any of my previous employments, but so far I’ve offend 2 managers and one other employee, I feel I’m starting 2016 on an awesome note!
I left the meeting under the impression that I need to switch to scent less products, but I’m not terribly keen to make that sacrifice in my own personal life as yet.
I do like the idea of decanting a small bottle for when I leave the office, so maybe I will try that. And though I’m not a terrible fan of flankers of late, I might have a look at Shalimar’s parfum de soufflé, and see if that is a more viable day option… Sigh February 2, 2016 at 2:59pm
Victoria: Unless you used loads of the product, which doesn’t seem likely, that’s some sensitivity. But if she’s that sensitive to scents, I doubt another perfume, even if light, will be better. Does the office have a fragrance free policy?
I’m sorry to hear about this situation, though. It really sounds tricky, especially since it’s a new job.
Soufflé de Shalimar is quite sweet and has a big enough sillage, so I don’t think it would work. February 2, 2016 at 4:12pm
Lou-Lou: Dear Victoria,
The company itself does not have a fragrance free policy. I work in a wardrobe department with my 2 managers and 2 other ladies. I am in constant close contact with a variety of performers and actors due to fittings, but they have never been anything but complimentary about my scent when I am in their personal space measuring them. I’ve discreetly asked if my scent is too strong, but they’ve all said that they couldn’t smell me until they were right in my face.
I think you are right though and that another perfume will not help the situation because my manager is that sensitive. I put only one spritz of caudalie divine oil in my hair today just to tame the ends and she could still smell it. She didn’t leave with a migraine, but she wasn’t comfortable working near me.
I don’t really want to run out and buy a bunch of products to suit 2 people, but I don’t want to be insensitive either. I’m still hoping that maybe switching to an edt or cologne might still be viable option, but I do really want to know if I do end up working for a fragrance free company, what are the restrictions? Does fragrance free only apply to edp, edt, etc or does it also extend to body/hand moisturiser and body wash? Is this something that I should be asking human resources as this is a relatively new concept to me. Sorry, I just feel lost.
I remember back in school and we were told we couldn’t wear makeup and so all of us girls found ways to cheat, such as wearing clear gloss, tinted moisturiser or clear mascara and so forth… I guess I’m strenuously hoping that I can still find a way to cheat through this with a compromise. February 4, 2016 at 12:16am
Victoria: She might also be expected a scent on you, so she’s paying close attention. In this situation, I really advise not to wear any perfume to work for the time being, if you want to keep this job. But if she makes a comment about the products you use, say that it’s your shampoo or whatever, that you aren’t wearing an actual perfume. If they don’t have an actual policy on paper, it’s not reasonable to ask someone to buy different functional products like unscented shampoos and laundry detergents (which also are much more expensive than the scented varieties and more difficult to find for a reason–the active ingredients in shampoos and hair sprays stink.)
I have no idea what a fragrance-free work place is like. I have never encountered one, and even my doctor here in Brussels wears a light cologne. February 4, 2016 at 5:45am
Karen (A): This may be venturing off from perfumes in to workplace, but I believe fragrance-free means fragrance free – no scented lotions, etc. It sounds like you are working with people who are super sensitive to any kind of scent – but I wonder how they handle it when people come in for fittings? Plus, a part of me also wonders if someone would be so sensitive if a well-known actor/actress that they admired came in wearing fragrance (but that’s probably just the cynic in me).
So, going beyond fragrance and how you can incorporate it without detection my question is how much do you love this job and would you be willing to go fragrance free for a period of time in order to keep the job?
If it’s a great opportunity to learn more about your field, and it offers you opportunities to meet people who could be good mentors or work references, then you just have to decide that it’s worth changing your habits for and try going fragrance free (really and truly, no trying to cheat as you did in school).
But, in all honesty I remember some jobs I had that were wrong from the start and never improved – which left me feeling crummy all the way around so there’s that aspect. Trying out new lighter fragrances or ways to apply perfume so it can’t be detected doesn’t seem like the solution in this case. Alienating supervisors never helps.
Since one supervisor left with a migraine, they are going to be monitoring you closely. In the end you have to decide if the pluses of this job outweigh the minuses. If they do, save your fragrance for your time off – if they don’t, you now know something that’s important when you look for a new job. February 4, 2016 at 6:03am
Victoria: I also wanted to add to Karen’s comment that going without a perfume can be an opportunity too. For instance, without a scent on your skin, you can pay more attention to smells around you–this sharpens your nose a great deal. You can keep a selection of decants for after work. You can keep some fragrant things in your purse to smell whenever you need a boost. My favorites for this purpose are–don’t laugh–tiny clementines that are coming in season now. You can scratch the peel and get the most wonderful boost of aroma. And it’s a great snack too. 🙂 February 4, 2016 at 7:02am
Karen (A): A few months ago, I was having an allergic reaction to something so I stopped wearing anything that might aggravate it including perfume. It was really depressing! Actually, I was very surprised at how much I missed it so can sympathize with you not wanting to do without.
Not sure if wearing any of the natural perfumes might help, but Hiram Green makes some beautiful ones. Not a natural perfume, but Aroma M’s Geisha Violet is a fairy-like Violet that wears quite close and may not be detectable by others. Not sure if it would appeal to you, but it is a green spring like fragrance on me. February 2, 2016 at 6:15am
Nora Szekely: Hi Lou-Lou,
I have one tip that I use for my stronger perfumes as I’m working in an open office myself. I also try to make attention not to choke anyone with my scent. (My boss, sitting 6 meters from me, complimented on my perfume twice when I was wearing Portrait of a Lady body butter, not even the actual fume!)
Back to business:
I spray a little on my cleavage before putting on my jumper/blouse, I do that with my vintage Coco extrait but it should work for lighter scents too.
I recommend La chasse aux papillons from L’Artisan or Comme une evidence EDP from Yves Rocher, these stay close to the skin but even if someone catches a whiff, I cannot imagine them being offensive. February 2, 2016 at 10:41am
Lou-Lou: Dear Nora,
Thank you, I’m going to try that tip spraying on my cleavage instead.
Thank you for all your recommendations, it seems that a visit to the fragrance counter is in order and I have some ideas of which counters and places to start now. February 2, 2016 at 3:21pm
Lou-Lou: Dear Karen,
Thank you for understanding, I just feel as though something is missing when I don’t wear a fragrance. As though I’m less feminine if that makes any sense?
I was at wholefoods during my lunch break, and saw that they had natural fragrances and was tempted to sample some, but thought better of it as I’d been blasted earlier for having coconut scent in my hair. I’ll google Aroma M when I get home and see if I can locate a stockist in Vancouver, Canada. February 2, 2016 at 3:13pm
Karen (A): Oh Lordy! Sounds more like control issues if you are getting blasted for your shampoo choice. Years ago, I attended some meetings and no one could wear any fragrance, someone had a fit because a person had placed the magazine perfume inserts in their sock drawer and that was an offense.
I understand not wanting people to be doused in perfume when working in close quarters or places where people are really sensitive to fragrance – chemotherapy treatment centers for instance, but I am thinking how possibly strong could your shampoo be?
Anyway, Aroma M offers some fragrances in oils, I’ve got two of the Geisha line. The Violet is quite quiet – at least for me. Good luck – hopefully no more reprimands! February 2, 2016 at 4:39pm
Tati: Hi Lou-Lou,
I have a bit of the same situation, albeit at a yoga class, where there is an intolerance to scent. My solution has been to rotate between scented body creams and Prada Infusion d’Iris, EDT, which basically is a soap scent (no one can argue about being freshly showered). Obviously just one or two light sprays, but it does make me feel “clothed.” I personally prefer the EDP, but it is much heavier, not as office friendly I think. February 3, 2016 at 4:58pm
Jane: I just opened a box of raspberries to eat as I am working at my desk and the aroma was gorgeous. It made me think; if I combined it with some of my other favourite natural smells; violets, fennel and lavender after rain, hay, roses. lime zest…what scent might I be heading towards? wearing Shalimar edc today against the wind and rain. February 2, 2016 at 7:06am
Victoria: My first idea was Caron Aimez-Moi. February 2, 2016 at 12:29pm
Jane: Thank you Victoria, I shall search it out when I’m on my next dept. store scent prowl! Hope it’s still available. February 2, 2016 at 12:39pm
Em: What are some of your favorite combinations of scents to layer? Right now I’m wearing Rose the One (I adore rose, including single-note rose) and Timbuktu. February 12, 2016 at 3:07am
Victoria: I’m trying Cornelia’s recommendation of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue and Hermes Hiris together, and I really like.
We also these threads with lots of suggestions:
https://boisdejasmin.com/note/layering-perfume February 12, 2016 at 11:58am
Michael: Can anyone recommend any perfumes similar to Versace Pour Homme and its flanker Versace Eau Fraiche?
Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance! February 14, 2016 at 4:25am
Victoria: Can you describe them for those who may not have smelled them? February 14, 2016 at 2:45pm
Michael: According to Fragrantica, here are the scent pyramids –
VERSACE POUR HOMME
Top notes: lemon, neroli, bergamot, rose de mai
Middle notes: hyacinth, cedar, clary sage, geranium
Base notes: tonka bean, musk, amber
VERSACE EAU FRAICHE
Top notes: lemon, bergamot, rosewood, rose
Middle notes: cedar, tarragon, sage, pepper
Base notes: amber, musk, saffron, woody notes
I’ve only smelled the former and I would classify it as a citrusy, slightly floral and woody fragrance, although Tania Sanchez describes it as a woody amber (“a dry, woody, peppery oriental, confused and bare”). Luca Turin describes Versace Eau Fraiche as a screechy citrus. February 22, 2016 at 11:18am
Victoria: We have a new thread on Wednesday, so if you like, you can ask there. I don’t remember these too off-hand to offer comparisons. February 22, 2016 at 3:41pm
Michael: Will do. I always look forward to these threads, they are a minefields of information for beginners like me. February 22, 2016 at 10:20pm
Jean: I really like Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velour. I have almost ordered a decant, but I thought first I should see if there are others I should try.
I like the rose (of course) and I like that it doesn’t have patchouli. I just wish the rose in the Rose Velours had just a touch more.
Also I have been working with a a dab on sample, would a spray provide more strength overall? February 18, 2016 at 6:23am
Victoria: For a perfume this expensive, I’d want something more perfect (more perfect for you, I mean). If you aren’t 100% sure, I wouldn’t get Rose Velours.
Have you tried Agent Provocateur EDP or Lutens’s La Fille de Berlin or L’Artisan Voleur de Roses? They all have rose and patchouli. February 18, 2016 at 2:44pm
Jean: Thank you Victoria! That’s a good way of looking at it. I’m okay with patchouli as long as it plays a supporting roll for the rose. If it is well crafted, patchouli can enlarge the rosiness. I will try to sample your recommendations.
I had a client yesterday who had a a nice fragrance. I asked her if she was wearing perfume. She said, “no, its my body lotion. I don’t like perfume.” For someone who doesn’t like perfume she was carrying a rather hefty sillage! And this was four hours after application. I don’t remember what it was, but there was some patchouli. February 19, 2016 at 7:15am
Victoria: My cousin also claims not to wear perfume, but when he comes in scented with his Axe body spray, you really have to open the widows to be able to breathe. 🙂 February 19, 2016 at 10:14am
Chrystiane Santos: Hi, I’m looking for a perfume that are similar to “Acqua di Gio” (female). Here in Brazil I cannot find it anymore. I just love the flower Sweet William and I think this perfume has its fragrance. Thank you!! February 22, 2016 at 1:02pm
Surbhi: Hi, I smelled Jasmine 17 recently. I know their are few jasmine lovers here. Opinions ? I don’t have mine yet. I almost feel like I might have found a jasmine that might work for me around others as well. February 23, 2016 at 8:16pm
Galaxy: Since 2000 I used to wear Extravagance D’amarige (Givenchy ) and before that Wings (Georgio Beverly Hills ). Now I’m trying to find some fragrance like either one of those because I miss them. Those were myou personal signature.
Now I’m wearing Extraordinary (Oscar de la Renta) altogough I’m not very happy with it and I’m struggling between Jeu D’amour (Kenzo) and Dhalia Divin (Givenchy ). They are nothing similar to my personal signature…. but as far as I have tried they could be my new fragrance.
Still any help to find a fragrance like the ones I love will be very appreciated.
Thanks so much to everyone. July 7, 2016 at 10:06pm