Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
It makes perfect sense to review Yuzu Rouge alongside Un Zest de Rose, because they share some similarities, primarily the rose and citrus pairing. Parfums 06130 were created by Raphaël Haury, a young nose behind Clarins Par Amour and several Azzaro fragrances. The opening of Yuzu Rouge is a tart effervescence of citrus notes, sweet lemon and dry lime. While they do not replicate the scent of yuzu precisely, the combination is vibrant and uplifting. Tea rose with its sweet fragrance weaves in gently around the citrus notes, softening the sharpness and astringency. A touch of blackcurrant provides a juicy note that permeates pink rose petals in the heart of the composition and lends a tart green accent that makes the resulting composition light and sparkling. I find it similar to Un Zest de Rose by Parfums de Rosine, with a touch more berry in the drydown, however while Un Zest de Rose is a white rose sorbet, Yuzu Rouge is a rose flavored drink. It is difficult to decide which is one better, because while Un Zest de Rose is slightly more complex, Yuzu Rouge has become my staple due to the fact that it is very easy to wear despite heat and humidity of the East Coast summers.
Available at Aedes and Takashimaya in New York (call 212-350-0100).
8 Comments
Robin: Love Yuzu Rouge, and you have captured it perfectly! August 15, 2005 at 10:37am
BoisdeJasmin: Thank you! I am almost done with my bottle, which is a rare thing for me. August 15, 2005 at 10:50am
Tania: I agreed also with Robin in that this smelled quite like green tea, too. I know it’s not listed in the notes, but the effect seems to be there. Of course, there are a gazillion varieties of rose that all smell somewhat different, and I would be surprised if there weren’t one that smelled like green tea. I’d believe anything of a flower now that I smelled the plumeria in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden that smells just like peaches. August 15, 2005 at 12:00pm
BoisdeJasmin: T, I also smell tea, but I assume that it is a tea rose, because some varieties have a distinct tea leaf flavour which I really like. I have recently been to a rose garden, and I had the best time smelling various heirloom roses. A variety of scent is unbelievable! Now, I also want to smell that plumeria in the Botanical Garden. August 15, 2005 at 12:04pm
Tania: You know, I’ve heard of tea roses but never smelled one face to face. (Face to blossom?) I bet that’s it. The more actual flowers I smell, the less confident I feel saying a flower smells like this or that. The variations are astounding. Nature really is an inventive perfumer.
I’ve also been reading about essential oils of wood, incidentally, and I’m struck by how often purveyors of these oils talk about vintages and aging and how it transforms a scent. People who sell Tamil sandalwood, for example, will go on and on about how old it is. It makes me so curious. I’d love to smell a new sandalwood, one aged the standard time, and a really, really old one, just to know the difference. Just when I think I know how something smells, I find out I’m completely naive. 😉 August 15, 2005 at 12:21pm
BoisdeJasmin: Very true! Plus, depending on where the plant is grown, the amount of sunshine/water/nutrients it gets, the scent can be altered. Many oils need to be aged to develop their characteristic scent. Patchouli is often aged, which smoothes its sharpness. Sandalwood can be aged for decades, and the longer it is aged, the better. I sniffed 40 year old sandalwood once, and it is amazing. If you are curious to try various sandalwoods, Edenbotanicals (in my perfume information list) sells samples. I am not sure if they offer different ages, but there is an interesting variety in their samples. August 15, 2005 at 12:26pm
Atreau: I’ve never tried this one before but it’s going up on my list! August 16, 2005 at 4:06am
BoisdeJasmin: S, I think that you will enjoy it, especially if you like Un Zest de Rose. It is just a perfect summer fragrance. August 16, 2005 at 9:23am