Launching a perfume today requires an intricate–and costly–configuration of product development, marketing, and distribution. Small brands may risk taking their own idiosyncratic course, but large fashion houses usually rely on another brand to create and distribute their fragrances. If they want to make real money, that is. For Prada’s sister Miu Miu, the partnership has been with Coty. It means in practical terms that the Coty fragrance development team weighs heavily on the finished creation, subjecting it to market tests and other scrutiny; after all, the success of it will reflect as much on Coty’s profit margins as it would on Miu Miu’s. In other words, don’t expect avant-garde or cutting edge.
And so I didn’t. But I was still taken aback at the wan aura of Miu Miu. I am certain that in its early iterations it must have been more interesting, since it was composed by Daniela Andrier, a perfumer noted for the elegance and polish of her creations (Marni, Bottega Veneta Knot, Prada Infusion d’Iris, Martin Margiela Untitled, all among my favorites). But what I smell on my skin is pale and far from the flamboyant chic of Miu Miu fashion. There is definitely quality, there is attention to detail, but it feels like the numerous cycles of market tests stripped Miu Miu of its more distinctive parts.
This is a shame, because Miu Miu holds much promise. My first thought as I spray it is “jasmine bubbles.” It smells like jasmine in pastel tones set against a backdrop of dry woods. Imagine it airy, light and sparkling. The jasmine is clean (indole lovers, this one is not for you), the woods are unsweetened. There is a dose of white floral notes, but they don’t stand out as a particular flower and just add to the petal-like texture of Miu Miu.
Special patchoulis and ouds are mentioned prominently in the press release, but for me they hardly make an impression. As Miu Miu hovers around me–and for all of its lightness, it has a nice presence–it smells like a sparkling, fresh white floral on a dry woody base. Pretty but not something you’d pick out of a crowd, and the crowd of perfumes on store shelves is massive. The bottle inspired by the Miu Miu’s matelassé leather bags is the most memorable aspect.
Miu Miu doesn’t smell exactly like Estée Lauder Modern Muse and Jour d’Hermès, but it’s the same type of a bright, well-laundered floral. Why Coty decided that one more of such a thing is needed in this world is beyond me. I don’t believe for a moment that pleasing has to equal boring.
Miu Miu by Miu Miu includes notes of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, green notes, and akigala wood (a patchouli like material with woody, peppery accents). Available in 30ml, 50ml and 100 ml Eau de Parfum. In the US, it will be exclusive to Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman from September to December 2015, while in different European countries, it’s already on the shelves. The 30ml size runs for about £48 ($75).
82 Comments
Josie: Thank you for reviewing it. I tried Miu Miu last week and I couldn’t even smell it an hour later. I was disappointed because since I can’t afford Miu Miu clothes, I was hoping to love its perfume. August 31, 2015 at 8:33am
Victoria: I also like Miu Miu clothes and accessories and the way Miuccia Prada uses colors and textures, so I really was hoping for something fun. Clean florals are dime a dozen. August 31, 2015 at 10:40am
Eric: Interesting. I suspected fashion brands ally themselves with Cotys and their sort for expertise and distribution and I wondered how much designers influenced the final product. No interest in Miu Miu_ but do you know if Prada is to relaunch its boutique-exclusive line? August 31, 2015 at 8:43am
Victoria: I believe they will have a separate launch for those perfumes, but I don’t remember when off the top of my head.
Some designers might have more influence than others, but at the end of the day, they have strict agreements with Coty (or P&G, InterParfum, etc.) Coty has done a great job with Bottega Veneta, so I’m doubly disappointed with Miu Miu. August 31, 2015 at 10:42am
Tania: I love your blog! Can you please recommend a perfume similar to Jour d’Hermes? It starts out very nice and then turns too sour. August 31, 2015 at 9:05am
Sara: Marc Jacobs for Her? August 31, 2015 at 10:19am
Tania: Thank you! August 31, 2015 at 12:03pm
Victoria: I’ve concluded that it reminds me of Estee Lauder Beyond Paradise. I’ve mentioned Modern Muse, and that’s another perfume that has a similar clean, fresh white floral spirit.
Frederic Malle Eau de Magnolia might be another option, but it’s less sweet and more citrusy. August 31, 2015 at 10:46am
Victoria: P.S. There is also an Absolue version of Jour d’Hermes, and it has more presence. August 31, 2015 at 10:50am
Tania: Funny, I was reading the Perfume Guide and thinking that I should try Beyond Paradise. Modern Muse wasn’t good on me, like too cloying or musky. Thank you for your recommendations. August 31, 2015 at 12:05pm
Victoria: I’m not sure if Beyond Paradise will be less musky, but it’s definitely not sweet.
Jour d’Hermes Gardenia limited edition is also very good, and it should be in stores. August 31, 2015 at 1:20pm
Tania: I heard of it, but my boutique doesn’t have it and there is no Hermes counter here. Is it similar to Chanel Gardenia? It’s frustrating because Jour d’Hermes is perfect except for the sour note at the very end. August 31, 2015 at 1:38pm
Victoria: Chanel is less abstract, but it’s also a clean floral. Worth trying. August 31, 2015 at 3:29pm
Bregje: It reminded me of chasse aux papillons.
I prefer and love jour d’hermes
Miu miu disappointed me too. On me it was kind of sweet. A bit like one of the daisy flankers from Marc Jacobs ( can’t pinpoint which on since there are so many. Maybe dream?!?)
Nice but not memorable.
In beyond Paradise( at least the original)i smell Lily of the valley and i didn’t get that from miu miu. But then again i’ve only tried it once and dismissed it September 2, 2015 at 6:41pm
Victoria: The way the thread is arranged, I’m now confused what we are comparing to what. I was responding to the original commenter’s question about Jour d’Hermes. Miu Miu smells nothing like Beyond Paradise to me, not only because of notes but also the character and overall structure. If anything, it’s closer in structure (if not the final smell) to Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue with it’s emphasis on crisp dry amber. September 3, 2015 at 2:38am
Solanace: Somewhat different, but certainly not sour, Annick Goutal Songes. Cathérine Deneuve loves it! August 31, 2015 at 2:20pm
Victoria: Oh, and you’ve reminded me of another terrific Goutal, Un Matin d’Orage. It’s another fresh, dewy floral that doesn’t smell like a laundry product. August 31, 2015 at 3:33pm
Aisha: What a shame. That bottle is gorgeous! August 31, 2015 at 9:36am
Victoria: Another thing I love about this perfume is the ad. That eyeliner on the model! I’ve been obsessed with the pop art/60s makeup looks, so the moment I saw the Miu Miu poster at my local store, I was hooked. 🙂 August 31, 2015 at 10:48am
Aisha: Oh, no doubt! I can’t do a proper cat eye to save my life. I try, but mostly fail. At least it’s just makeup that can easily be washed off. 🙂 August 31, 2015 at 11:37am
Victoria: I love Lisa Eldridge’s tutorials, and her eyeliner videos are fantastic. It made me realize that this technique isn’t complicated at all. She has several videos, but this is a good one covering all of the basics:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxcWR9_1E9s August 31, 2015 at 1:18pm
Yvonne: Seconding Lisa’s videos. She taught me so much about my makeup. My favorite eyeliner video is this one:
http://www.lisaeldridge.com/video/25997/easy-effortless-winged-liner-anyone-can-achieve/#.VeSUwyXBzGc August 31, 2015 at 1:54pm
Victoria: I love that video, especially her technique of using eyeshadow for lining. August 31, 2015 at 3:30pm
girasole: Thank you both for sharing these! I also immediately noticed the eyeliner in the ad (and expected a chic and sassy perfume because of it – I’m disappointed to hear it doesn’t deliver). I think I’m particularly alert to a well done cat-eye because I’m completely ham-fisted when it comes to doing eyes myself. I’ve basically given up, but perhaps these videos will encourage me to try again! August 31, 2015 at 7:35pm
Victoria: Chic and sassy is what I was expecting.
I use a small brush (Shiseido 4f or 5f, for instance) for lining. It works well with creams and powders, and because it’s small, it gives me enough control and precision. September 1, 2015 at 3:55am
Aisha: Thank you, both. I watch her videos too, and she does explain everything really well. However, the beyond-a-basic-liner thing just never looks right on me. LOL! August 31, 2015 at 2:47pm
Victoria: You don’t have to do it quite that exaggerated. I found it helpful because she’s showing the technique precisely, but the line can be much thinner, the flick much smaller, and you can adjust it to your eye shape. August 31, 2015 at 3:18pm
Elisa: I love the ad too! And the bottle. Too bad the perfume doesn’t live up to them. August 31, 2015 at 6:27pm
Victoria: A double disappointment on that count. September 1, 2015 at 3:46am
Bregje: Totally agree!
Sixties style(very miu),great bottle, cute kitten
When I was younger I would have bought it just because of that image. September 2, 2015 at 6:47pm
Sandra: Sounds like this fragrance is not a good representation of their clothing line. I understand they want to appeal to the mass market to make money. I will give it a sniff if it’s in my path- but will probably not go out of my way to try it. I hope that you have some new releases in the pipeline to review that you love to give me some hope! August 31, 2015 at 9:38am
Victoria: Not exactly the mass market, since the price point is too high for it (around $80 for 30ml!), but they’re definitely going for a mild, inoffensive. It smells good, and you can definitely do worse in this category, but inoffensive, tame, wallflower just doesn’t describe Miu Miu for me. August 31, 2015 at 10:56am
Sandra: Oh my goodness- I totally missed the price! Good grief! August 31, 2015 at 12:24pm
Victoria: So for the price it also didn’t measure up. August 31, 2015 at 1:23pm
Kat: How weird our brain works. I did not like that bottle design from the get go and couldn’t really explain why. Took me a while to figure it out. Its color scheme is reminiscent of Lou Lou – a scent I did not love. Obviously the design of a bottle should not deter you from a scent but there you go. I’ve also experienced the opposite intense love for the packaging but then being let down by the scent. Behold the power of marketing. August 31, 2015 at 10:48am
Victoria: The power of marketing, or perhaps, the power of association!
I found the bottle memorable as a whole. The color combination is my favorite part. I love the juxtaposition of bright red and blue, whether it’s cobalt blue or powdery blue like this one, and I also like the way a round stopper is contrasted with the sharp angles of the pleats. Perhaps, too much reflection on such a perfume bottle, but Prada is really a genius when it comes to design. I wish some of it was captured in the scent itself. August 31, 2015 at 11:01am
limegreen: My first thought was “pretty bottle!” and after reading your review, second thought was “what a waste of a perfume that actually launches in a most favored 30 ml size!” 🙂
Would be great if 30 ml sizes would become a trend, instead of non-descript florals. August 31, 2015 at 10:49am
Victoria: 30ml bottles are such a good idea, and Coty usually includes them. August 31, 2015 at 11:02am
Kavita: I’ll still try it, but sigh.. I was hoping it would be like Marni, one of my favourites. August 31, 2015 at 12:12pm
Victoria: Marni is lovely, isn’t it? That one was a good match between the brand concept and the perfume for me. August 31, 2015 at 1:22pm
Yvonne: I’ve come to rely on your blog for reviews and I like how your explain your ratings. I agree that pleasing doesn’t have to be boring. What perfumes would be in your ‘pleasing and interesting’ category? August 31, 2015 at 1:59pm
Victoria: Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez, Bulgari The Vert (and the new The Bleu), Chanel No 19 Poudre (No 19 too, but it might be more polarizing), Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver, Marc Jacobs for Him (a fantastic fig perfume), Marni, Bottega Veneta Knot, Prada Infusion d’Iris. What about you? Do you have your favorite “pleasing and interesting” scents? August 31, 2015 at 3:32pm
Yvonne: SJP Lovely, VCA Murmure and Givenchy Fleur d’Interdit are like that for me. September 1, 2015 at 12:21pm
Victoria: Thank you for sharing, Yvonne. September 1, 2015 at 1:18pm
Solanace: Wish it were as flamboyant as this gorgeous bottle. Sounds like a total bore, though. Thank you for the review, Victoria, I’ll probably smell it at some point, but I’m not in a hurry! August 31, 2015 at 2:18pm
Victoria: Or at least, just a tad more exciting! August 31, 2015 at 3:32pm
OnWingsofSaffron: I am not at all surprised: wan, pale, boring, merely pretty…
In the world I live or rather work in – EU-Brussels, NGO’s, Governments, Embassies and Representations etc. – nobody, and I truly mean it: nobody wears perfume! If once in a blue moon somebody does actually smell of something other than her-/himself, well my goodness. As a rule, I complement them, even if it is the meekest little scent. Also outside of that working bubble, say if I go to the opera or some place cultural: nada. (It goes without saying that I sometimes feel like a male freak wearing N° 22, Nuit de Noël, Mitsouko or Arpège – but what the hell!)
What I am trying to say: a flamboyant scent doesn’t sell because people (men and women) dare not call anything overly elegant, different, or special to attention except their professional persona. August 31, 2015 at 2:27pm
Victoria: The last time I went to the opera in Brussels, I was sitting in a cloud of someone’s Coco Mademoiselle, and at the museum visit yesterday, I counted 5 or 6 different scents on people, including L’Heure Bleue and Eau Sauvage. So, my experience is somewhat different.
Interestingly enough, the perfumes on the top 20 lists are anything but bland and unnoticeable–La Vie est Belle, Angel, J’Adore. August 31, 2015 at 3:28pm
OnWingsofSaffron: I am definitely going to the wrong places…! August 31, 2015 at 5:31pm
Victoria: It was at the Bozar.
I just got off Schuman, and I was walking behind a group of Italians heading towards the EU Commission building. Their mixed sillage was something else. September 1, 2015 at 3:46am
Annikky: It’s not quite that bad! I work at the Commission and I assure you, I do wear fragrance 🙂 I also have a close colleague who often wears Lys Mediterranee and she is definitely not the only one wearing perfume around here. My boyfriend (also Commission employee) is currently rotating Byredo Pulp, Olfactive Studio Panorama and Tom Ford Tobacco Oud. Plus I swear I smelled Eau Sauvage on a Head of Cabinet the other day. So there’s hope.
PS I think No 22 is fabulous on guys. September 1, 2015 at 8:43am
mj: It’s curious that Prada has chosen Coty as the developers for the Miu-Miu perfume, since the Prada perfumes are part of the Puig group from Barcelona. Or maybe they are not in Puig anymore? A few years back I got a “employee-priced” bottle of Prada perfume (the original) one from a friend who used to work at the Puig’s offices in Barcelona. I kind of liked the perfume but couldn’t wear it, and ended up giving it away. August 31, 2015 at 2:50pm
Victoria: They’re with Puig still. I have a feeling that they wanted to diversify. Coty is not a bad choice, of course, and they’ve done a good job with Bottega Veneta. August 31, 2015 at 3:36pm
mj: I haven’t tried the Bottega Veneta, so I have homework for my next trip to El Corte Inglés.
by the by, I love the Miu Miu bottle. August 31, 2015 at 3:44pm
Victoria: I love all perfumes in that line, including the Legere flanker. Not avant-garde either, but interesting, polished and beautiful. September 1, 2015 at 3:41am
Gayle: What do you all think of the new re-formulation of Norell perfume? August 31, 2015 at 2:58pm
Victoria: I haven’t smelled it yet, but it’s on my list. August 31, 2015 at 3:33pm
Alicia: Thank you for the review, Victoria; otherwise I’d fallen for the bottle. I agree with your pleasing and interesting fragrances, many of them are staples of mine. I’d like to add, O de Lancome, and several other Eaux, Hermes de Narcisse Bleu, de Pamplemousse Rose, AG Eau de Charlotte, de Hadrien, Guerlain Eau de Coq, Imperiale. Besides the Eaux, Burberry for women, Burberry Brit Rhythm, and perhaps Kenzo Flower. August 31, 2015 at 6:40pm
Victoria: I love your choices. Yes, they are interesting, easy to wear and far from dull. September 1, 2015 at 3:47am
Alicia: P.S.: Perhaps I should add a perfume I wore a lot this spring and summer, Guerlain, Chant d;Aromes. Two classics that I always wear in the warm seasons, Guerlain, Chamade, and YSL Rive Gauche. Do I need to mention Paris? Still, all of these, besides being pleasing and interesting, might belong to another category, perhaps celestial. August 31, 2015 at 6:53pm
Victoria: Paris strikes me as a statement perfume, but Sophia Grojsman designed it to be a crowd pleaser, ie. not some rarified thing for the select few. September 1, 2015 at 3:48am
Alicia: Grosjman! Sometimes I think that she is a magician…Jaipur, Yvresse, Tresor. And one of my favorites, now defunct, Yves Rocher Neblina. Once I took a taxi in Buenos Aires, and the driver exclaimed: You smell like an angel! Which perfume is that? I was wearing Neblina. Unfortunately I had to tell him that it had been discontinued. She loves roses, like both of us, and then makes magic with them, like she did with Paris violet-roses, and that delicious rose drunk in peaches at the heart of Trésor.Better stop here, otherwise I write an ode to Sophia Grosjman. September 1, 2015 at 5:06am
Victoria: She deserves an ode! 🙂 A brilliant perfumer and a very warm, generous person. September 1, 2015 at 5:08am
Alicia: Do you know her, Victoria? You must, since you mention her warmth and generosity. If you met her, she must have recognized both qualities in you. Even in a blog you radiate them. A rare thing, and a blessing. September 1, 2015 at 5:41am
Victoria: Yes, she was my mentor and my perfumery teacher. I’m very lucky to have met her.
Thank you very much for your kind words. I really do try to give back, since I received a lot from people like Sophia. I came to the industry completely as an outsider, with no connections or family ties, and I met many wonderful people who were willing to teach me and to help me. September 1, 2015 at 6:38am
Alicia: Sorry, Sophia. Before writing the ode I should spell your name correctly: Grojsman. (Impossible to pronounce in Spanish, I seem to have changed it to some impossible Hispanic phonetics). May my mistake find excuse enough in my admiration. September 1, 2015 at 5:28am
Victoria: It’s pronounced Grossman in English, but j is there, because in the original Russian it was more like Groisman. September 1, 2015 at 6:35am
Alicia: Thank you so much for the explanation! Now I am able to pronounce that impossible combination of consonants. How wonderful to have had such an admirable woman as your teacher. And from long experience as a teacher I like to add, how fortunate for her to have had a student like you. September 2, 2015 at 12:58am
Victoria: 🙂 A stubborn, opinionated student is no boon, but Sophia could handle it. September 2, 2015 at 3:44am
Emma: This is mainstream fragrance that depresses me, pretty boring florals for pretty dumb girls, definitely nothing like Gres Cabochard or Frederic Malle Une Rose geared towards sophisticated elegant women with very strong personality and character.
In my book this rates very low! ZERO!! August 31, 2015 at 7:02pm
Victoria: I don’t think it makes sense to compare Cabochard and Miu Miu. They serve different purposes. It’s like comparing Marcel Proust to Amy Tan. I don’t mind Miu Miu, and I would be ok to wear it, if I had a bottle. It’s a nice enough perfume. Sometimes you do want just pretty and simple and not a statement on glamour. At least, I do. It’s just that for the brand it’s too much of a wallflower, and in the same price category, you can find similar things. For instance, Marni or Narciso. September 1, 2015 at 3:52am
Annikky: Oh, what a pity. I really hoped this would be good, as I adore the bottle (I keep going on about red and powdery blue…) and Prada has done some great mainstream fragrances. I’ll give it a go, but I completely agree – a wan floral is not a good fit for Miu Miu. September 1, 2015 at 8:49am
Victoria: Red and powdery blue is such a mod pairing. Too bad Miu Miu didn’t have that sassy, as Girasole put so well in her comment, touch. September 1, 2015 at 10:49am
Neyon: Sounds soft and pretty. Maybe something you’d wear to your back garden? September 1, 2015 at 11:11am
Victoria: It’s nice enough, but for the price, you can do so much better. Even in my back garden, I don’t want to be bored by my perfume. Ok, I don’t have a back garden, but if I had, I’d pick something else. 🙂 September 1, 2015 at 11:19am
Barbara: I’m curious to smell Miu Miu and see how it works on my skin. Love love the bottle. September 1, 2015 at 11:32am
Victoria: I’d love to hear what you think of it. And yes, the bottle is lovely. September 1, 2015 at 1:16pm
Terrill Lawrence: Victoria… I have to Politely but Heartily Disagree… There is NOTHING about this fragrance that strikes a note of Modern Muse or that AWFUL Fruit Salad that is Beyond Paradise (I don’t usually Loathe a Fragrance… That one I LOATHE!)
I think Miu Miu hit the nail on the head. to me it’s not Wan, or Thin, Yes it’s Somehow Synthetic but also there is the most OUTLANDISH Natural scent and TASTE of Rose Leaves or Petals in the back notes. It’s Sharp and Green and Peppery and Like NOTHING I have ever smelled before. I have been hearing all these things about how it smells Generic or Unoriginal and I am balking vociferously when I read those remarks. I can’t understand them for this Strikes me as something, Dare I say, Revolutionary!
I am buying and wearing it for myself and I am a Man! It’s That Good! I wish everyone could smell it the way I do! September 3, 2015 at 1:57am
Victoria: I never compared Miu Miu to Beyond Paradise, and I specifically stated in my review that it doesn’t smell like Modern Muse. On the rest, it’s more than welcome to disagree. Mine is just one person’s opinion, and it’s good to hear other view points. Enjoy Miu Miu! September 3, 2015 at 2:28am
Terrill Lawrence: With much egg on my face… LOL you were responding to Jour D’Hermes with the Beyond Paradise comparison… A Thousand and One Pardons… even though I wasn’t being Puckish or anything of the sort… I was more making the point that I have been very surprised by the way this fragrance is being received… if I came across too Boisterously I do apologize! I get a little Passionate at times! September 3, 2015 at 4:00am
Victoria: The long comment threads do get confusing. No apologies needed. September 3, 2015 at 4:07am
Helene: I bought a bottle of this after testing too briefly and enjoying the light floral aspect. It has a thunderous woody-oud note in the drydown that last for days and days. I can totally see this as an unusual choice for a man. It was far too masculine for me in the end. March 29, 2016 at 8:14am