Is it possible to have too many rose perfumes? Not really, if you ask me. On the other hand, it’s entirely within reason to limit one’s wardrobe to the best of the best, especially since we’re spoiled for choice. Unfortunately, L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Rose Privée doesn’t make the cut. While made from quality materials, it has neither an interesting character nor does it offer anything you can’t find elsewhere (and for significantly less money).
On the rose spectrum, Rose Privée is on the light and sparkling end, although it has some dark touches. From the moment you apply it, you notice fruity notes—sweet raspberry, tart pomegranate peel and other juicy, bright effects. Rose essence naturally shares many elements with the aromas of berries, so the fruity nuance is a pleasant, harmonious touch. A green, spicy note underneath the pink froth should be a great contrast, but instead, it turns bitter and musty, a flower on the edge of withering.
What happens later is more of the same—bitter, stale petals mixing with fresh, delicate buds, with a handful of shredded cedarwood for good measure. Rose Privée is not quite a dark moody fragrance, but it’s also not much of a bubbly, lighthearted blend. It feels as if the perfumer couldn’t quite pick a single theme and instead you get something in between, without a distinctive point of view. On the plus side, if you find most light roses to be fleeting, Rose Privée won’t disappoint, because it grabs onto your skin and lasts beyond all expectations.
So I don’t care for Rose Privée, and instead I’d like to point out a couple of other roses that achieve the light-dark effect better. For one thing, you have the bizarre but oddly compelling The Different Company Rose Poivrée. Originally, it was a raunchy number, but over the years it has been reformulated into a subtler, tamer earthy rose. Eau d’Italie Paestum Rose starts on pink petals and ends on incense and sheer amber.
If you want just rose champagne bubbles, minus the hangover, then consider Balenciaga L’Eau Rose and Serge Lutens Sa Majesté la Rose. Pretty much anything called Rose and tinted pink at the department store is in the same category. Or throw caution to the wind and reach for Annick Goutal Grand Amour. It has much more than just roses, but if you like dramatic florals and all things voluptuous, it will be just the right choice.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Rose Privée includes notes of the absolute of rose de mai, magnolia, basil, lilac, carnation, and patchouli. Available at the brand’s boutiques and department store counters. 50 ml Eau de Parfum/£77; 100ml/£95
If you want more rose perfumes, please click on “Perfume Reviews by Note” and scroll down to Rose for a full list.
73 Comments
Annikky: It’s interesting that when I like a fragrance, I don’t need much validation (although it is always satifying when others agree). But if I dislike something, I’m so relieved when someone whose taste I respect feels the same way.
I tried this at Senteur d’Ailleurs a while back and really didn’t like it. I don’t remeber it well, I mostly recall thinking ‘this doesn’t smell good’. To be fair, I tend to like darker roses much better than lighter ones – Mohur, Cafe Rose, Lyric, Portrait of a Lady, Ta’if are more my thing. May 1, 2015 at 8:14am
Victoria: I tried it once and thought that it was ok but nothing special, but then one day I sprayed myself liberally before heading out, and I couldn’t wait to get home to shower it off. The more thoroughly I tried it, the less I liked it. It’s not that it’s dull, but it turns into something unpleasant on my skin. And well, as you say, there are many great roses to choose from. May 1, 2015 at 11:36am
limegreen: “Pretty much anything called Rose and tinted pink at the department store” — made me giggle. 🙂
These come out in force around Valentine’s and Mother’s Day and are dizzyingly similar. I really like it (wink, wink) when they offer free engraving on the perfume bottle on these occasions, sort of distracts you from the perfume itself. May 1, 2015 at 9:28am
The Scented Salon: Speaking of engraving, Guerlain at Neiman Marcus is offering engravings for Mother’s Day. Except their stuff is gorgeous and it would be worth engraving one of their bottles and keeping it forever. May 1, 2015 at 9:38am
Victoria: Now that would a special gift for someone! May 2, 2015 at 9:06am
angeldiva: Wow! I’ve never heard of engraving a perfume bottle!
That’s so ultra -femme! I think if I had a husband who gifted me something of this nature -it would be my most treasured gift. Even more than a canary diamond, because it would be so personal! May 2, 2015 at 8:17pm
Victoria: 🙂 May 4, 2015 at 6:19am
limegreen: P.S. It’s always interesting to read why you don’t like a perfume, Victoria. Thanks for sharing these opinions.
And happy May Day! May 1, 2015 at 9:39am
Victoria: Thank you! It’s a good exercise to write negative reviews, because it forces me to think more why I don’t like something. But of course, it’s only my opinion. Others may disagree.
Happy May Day! May 2, 2015 at 9:07am
limegreen: You explain your opinion so well, it’s very thoughtfully expressed and informative. It doesn’t feel like a negative review per se, if you know what I mean. We can’t and don’t love everything, so it’s good to have a spectrum of choices.
I remember your review about Roger and Gallet fragrances and while low in the star evaluation, you were not panning them, just toting them as the “t-shirt and jeans” of perfumes. I thought that was lovely and gave a nuance to a review that didn’t rely on a thumbs up or thumbs down kind of black and white evaluation. May 2, 2015 at 11:33am
Victoria: Thank you! I try not to dismiss something out of hand, since our impressions are so subjective, and while there are certain criteria by which perfumes are judged, who is to say that one needs to have only the great masterpieces in one’s wardrobe. What if you have a craving for something simple, or on the other hand, big and tawdry. I mean, if you had a bad day or feel blue, you need big and tawdry confection to brighten things up. 🙂 At least, that’s how it is for, and which is why Chopard Casmir is always around. May 2, 2015 at 1:27pm
Cornelia Blimber: Biting negative reviews can be funny, but I like your style better. More honest. May 4, 2015 at 7:09am
Victoria: I like those too, but to read rather than write. 🙂 May 4, 2015 at 8:30am
Victoria: Yes, those are the staple flankers. Some are nice enough like Bulgari Rose Essentialle or even Valentino’s Rock-n-Rose, especially if you can get them at discount. I like these kind of bubbly roses, but I can hardly tell them apart.
Another good fizzy rose is Roger & Gallet Rose Imaginaire. Unlike others, it doesn’t pretend that it contains any rose and says so in its description. May 1, 2015 at 11:48am
limegreen: I wish Roger and Gallet was more common in the store offerings here. I tried a lot of them in London and Paris, somehow overlooked Rose Imaginaire. Came home with R & G Osmanthus body oil, absolutely love it and don’t care that it does not smell like osmanthus blossom (closer to osmanthus absolute). May 2, 2015 at 11:26am
Victoria: For the price, the perfumes are very good, and I agree on the Osmanthus body oil, which is one of the nicest body products. Another line I like for good budget perfumes is Yves Rocher. Incidentally, they spend a lot on the juice. May 2, 2015 at 1:24pm
The Scented Salon: There are three unimpressive rose releases for me this Spring: the one you mention, Kurkdjian’s A la Rose and Aerin Rose de Grasse (though the last two are much better than Rose Privee).
I happen to be a huge rose lover. When there are so many beautiful roses out there, I just don’t see the need to buy an overpriced “light” rose without character.
The above mentioned Paestum Rose is a masterpiece: it manages to be a fresh beautiful rose with a spicy character just short of dark. I adore it. Rose Poivre is also lovely and fit for Spring.
I won’t go into all the dark rose perfumes out there for there are many. For those looking for something well-crafted for Spring in the rose category, try Un Zeste de Rose by Rosine and Taif Rose by Perris. May 1, 2015 at 9:29am
Karen: I, too, was disappointed with A la Rose – just didn’t do it for me. And I, too, am a huge rose lover! May 1, 2015 at 3:54pm
Victoria: That one was particularly bland. And overpriced! May 2, 2015 at 9:58am
Victoria: I completely agree with you on all of them. When I smelled A la Rose and Rose de Grasse, I thought, “why bother?” Again, what makes me frustrated is the price vs interest ratio. I’d rather go for the Roger & Gallet Rose Imaginaire, or on the higher end, Lutens’s Sa Majeste la Rose, Malle’s Une Rose or Diptyque Eau Rose.
Thank for reminding me of Un Zeste de Rose, which is one of the best frilly roses. Rose d’Ete is also great. May 2, 2015 at 9:00am
Allison C.: Thank you for the review! I was very curious about this one. I have been enjoying L’Artisan’s re-issue of Oeillet Sauvage, it’s been wonderful for these cool Spring days. For roses, I really like Malle’s Une Rose, Caron’s Or et Noir, Rosine’s Rose Kashmirie, and Goutal’s Ce Soir Ou Jamais. Lighter rose scents tend to disagree with my skin chemistry after the initial application! May 1, 2015 at 9:29am
Victoria: I like the reissue of Oeillet Sauvage, although it’s now more rose like and less spicy. But really, if you want a spicy but sheer floral, it’s probably a good choice.
Or et Noir is a stunning dark rose. I’d mentioned Parfum Sacre from Caron too, since it has a lot of rose mixed in with the pepper, sandalwood and amber. May 2, 2015 at 9:05am
Austenfan: What a pity, l’Artisan should be able to do much better! May 1, 2015 at 10:03am
The Scented Salon: I have found that none of their perfumes last on me so I have completely crossed off this line from my radar despite such beauties as Poivre Piquant and Piment Brulant. May 1, 2015 at 1:03pm
Austenfan: My experiences with the line are very different, and I have found quite a few that last well, and are both distinctive and pretty, but we all perceive things diffently I suppose. I’m not familiar with either of the two you mention, so I clearly need to do some more smelling. May 1, 2015 at 1:26pm
Victoria: One of the longest lasting perfumes in my collection is Timbuktu. It wears through 2 showers on me, but perhaps, I’m sensitive to the woods note in it. May 2, 2015 at 9:57am
Victoria: They really should be able to, especially Bertrand Duchaufour who gave us Eau d’Italie’s Paestum Rose and many other great perfumes. I haven’t liked anything from L’Artisan after Seville a l’Aube, but I hope that with the new ownership they will turn a corner. May 2, 2015 at 9:09am
Austenfan: I haven’t tried any Artisan since Séville 😉 May 9, 2015 at 2:32pm
Victoria: You haven’t missed anything! May 9, 2015 at 3:31pm
spe: But that is one of the most beautiful bottles I’ve seen in a while! I’m not a rose fan, but if I had to chose, Rive Gauche would be my choice. May 1, 2015 at 10:48am
Victoria: The bottle in person is not that impressive, but in photos, it’s really pretty. May 2, 2015 at 9:10am
Patricia: I agree with spe that the bottle is gorgeous. Too bad the juice inside isn’t better! May 1, 2015 at 11:37am
Victoria: I should have mentioned another rose I liked in this genre, Atelier Cologne Rose Anonyme. Was it one of the Atelier’s you liked as well? May 2, 2015 at 9:11am
irem: I LOVE the scent of roses. I have a small vial of Turkish rose otto, which I take out regularly and sniff. To me it is one of the best smells ever. But when it comes to fragrance I am slowly accepting the mantra “The best rose perfume is the one that doesn’t smell like a rose” which I have fought for a long time. Reason for changing my mind? All the fragrances with rose in their name which smell the whole spectrum from weak and insignificant to sour and unpleasant. From now on it is “Roses on the branch, Nahema and Rive Gauche (or similar) in the bottle. ”
Also, happy May Day to you all. In celebration of today I will make a big bunch of all the lily of the valley in the backyard – they smell like heaven and grow like weed! I find them very much like rose, wonderful in nature not so great in a bottle. But then, I have to confess that I never smelled vintage Diorissimo. May 1, 2015 at 11:38am
Victoria: I like your approach, and I agree that it’s best not to look for an exact rose in a bottle of perfume. Even the rose essence doesn’t smell like a real blooming rose. The best roses are the abstract compositions that don’t try to be a headspace rendition of roses.
Happy May Day! Now, Diorissimo smells very much like real lily of the valley. May 2, 2015 at 9:47am
OperaFan: Breathing a sigh of relief at your review, i.e., money saved!
For me, prominent raspberry (or most other shades of berry) notes are a non-starter when it comes to roses. Can’t remember the last berried rose perfume I actually liked, but peaches and plums are a different story. For now I’ll just stick to my dozen or so roses and be happy with them.
🙂 May 1, 2015 at 12:00pm
Victoria: In perfumery, roses with lots of raspberry nuances are very common, since it’s an easy accord to make. Like you, I also love my roses with plums and peaches, a la Guerlain Parure or Rosine’s Rose d’Ete. May 2, 2015 at 9:49am
Karen: Interesting to not like the berry note, since roses and raspberries are related. I was thinking that perhaps raspberry note is used to bring out a facet of the family. May 4, 2015 at 5:20am
Victoria: I think that the problem is that the berry notes tend to be accentuated too much and smell almost artificial. But I agree, rose and raspberry are a perfect duo. I add a splash of rosewater to raspberry desserts to make berry more pronounced. May 4, 2015 at 6:21am
OperaFan: I know roses and raspberries is a popular combination, but I think Victoria has pinpointed part of the reason. I think it’s hard to make a subtle berry note for a true rose scent. For me, it steers the rose too far over to the fruity and juicy side. I guess I just don’t like to wear juicy, mouth-watering fragrances.
:\ May 4, 2015 at 10:23am
Andy: Happy May Day to all, wishing everyone muguet-scented splendor. This perfume does sound disappointing, and as I’m still looking for a fresh rose scent that really wows me, I’ll probably skip it. Yesterday, I was walking past a blooming crabapple tree, and was greeted with the most ethereal cloud of vaguely rose-y aroma. I was surprised, because I’ve never recognized crabapples as having a profound scent before. May 1, 2015 at 12:22pm
Victoria: I had a similar realization but with regular apple blossoms. Our apple orchard is just about to come into full flower, but some trees are already starting. The fragrance is like a sheer rose, plus apricot and spice. It reminds me that Sophia Grojsman’s Eternity, which is commonly referred to as a rose, was inspired by the apple blossoms.
Happy May Day! May 2, 2015 at 9:53am
Johanob: Being on a serious Rose-kick currently,this is very disappointing indeed!I do have some kick-ass Rose perfumes already,and L’Artisan is not available easily locally.Money saved I guess!Lol. May 1, 2015 at 12:47pm
Victoria: Oh well, something else will come along! 🙂 May 2, 2015 at 9:56am
Elizabeth: I found Rose Privee very, very strange. It started out with lots of red fruit, then turned into dried roses and something that smells like face cream. Also the label on the bottle looks beautiful in pictures, but rather cheap in person.
I agree that Paestum Rose is much better. And I love the reference to Ancient Rome! May 1, 2015 at 3:59pm
Victoria: Yes, that’s how it ended up on me too. Also, something reminded me of red wine, or rather the smell of the residue left in a glass. May 2, 2015 at 9:59am
Karen: Roses are just about my favorite, and I’ve even branched out from the dark ones – although they are just what I reach for when I don’t know what else will do. Malle’s Une Rose, Tauer’s Rose Flash, Viktoria Minya’s Hedonist Rose, Parfumerie Generale’s Isparta, and Ann Gerard’s Rose Cut – maybe the most sparkly out of the above list?? – all are beautiful (at least for me) fresher roses. Although Isparta sort of goes dark/light a bit.
There are just so many wonderful rose perfumes out there – the problem is narrowing down which to purchase FB of! May 1, 2015 at 4:03pm
Johanob: Well those are some good suggestions!I’ll add Vero Profumo’s Rozy to your list of awesomeness!;-)) May 1, 2015 at 4:28pm
Victoria: And Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d’Orange. May 2, 2015 at 10:02am
Victoria: And I can’t resist one more–Lutens’ Rose de Nuit. May 2, 2015 at 10:05am
Karen: And not a rose rose, but found my sample of Lipstick Rose (it seems to disappear with alarming frequency!!) and fell head over heels for it! No idea why initially it didn’t work – cold weather??, but now the sample has vanished again! Honestly, I think the fairies are making off with it, it seems like one they’d like. A 10 ml bottle has to happen! May 4, 2015 at 5:26am
Victoria: I adore Lipstick Rose! It has so much character and is more complex than it appears at first. May 4, 2015 at 6:20am
Victoria: It’s a good problem to have–too many beautiful things to choose from. 🙂 But I agree with you, there are lots of interesting roses, especially in the niche lines. Rose has traditionally been a difficult flower to work with, because many people have strong associations with it, and the market tested roses end up as pretty but not rose-like enough. On the other hand, good niche offerings can be quirky, elegant, smoldering or just intriguing. May 2, 2015 at 10:01am
SilverMoon: I really love rose perfumes, especially the darker, spicier and/or earthier ones. Among my favourites are Malle’s Une Rose, Paestum Rose and Nahema. The first for its rose plus wet soil and roots smell; the second for its spicy and almost windswept rose in a sea breeze; and the last as the most perfect abstract rose. I have other roses, such as Portrait of a Lady, but the above three are among my top favourites. I agree that rose can be a really complicated perfume material since everybody has some association with roses, making it difficult to “get it right” for everybody. May 3, 2015 at 10:04am
Karen: Another couple to try along the dark rose path are Jo Malone’s Velvet Rose and Oud and Guerlain’s Rose Nacree du Desert – both are gorgeous. May 4, 2015 at 5:29am
Victoria: I’m wearing Paestum Rose right now, and it’s such a great perfume. May 4, 2015 at 6:23am
Cornelia Blimber: How is Paestum Rose compared to Parfum Sacré? May 4, 2015 at 7:11am
Victoria: It has few spice in comparison to Parfum Sacre and the rose is more pronounced. May 4, 2015 at 8:31am
Cornelia Blimber: Thank you! May 4, 2015 at 11:51am
Aurora: I like your negative reviews as much as your positive ones, as you always explain fully the reasons and never dismiss a perfume at once. It seems l’AP had not launched a rose in quite a while.
Scrolling down the rose fragrance list makes me realize what a wonderful body of work you have created on the blog. It is so precious to me as when I encounter a perfume I can rely on your reviews to reinforce my impressions.
Since the traveling box, I have been more careful of the few words I put on my perfume list and I am so grateful that it has encouraged me to be less cryptic and to make more of an effort to really analyse scents more fully and above all to write about them, you are such an inspiration.
Thank you again for having invented the box, Victoria. May 2, 2015 at 6:27am
Victoria: Gosh, you made me so happy with your comment. I’m delighted that the traveling perfume box is a success and that it helped you in your perfume enjoyment, to boot. 🙂
I glanced at my list of rose reviews and thought, “wow, I guess we like roses around here.” 🙂 May 2, 2015 at 10:04am
Iodine: No rose fan, here. And very very disappointed with everything L’Artisan has released in the last three years 🙁
I’ll try it, anyway, it hasn’t arrived in Italy yet. By chance, the last time I went to L’Artisan counter at Rinascente to check for this one I discovered a rose that can be of some interest, though not for me- Dom Rosa by Liquides Imaginaires, with an amazingly fizzy and sparkling opening: champagne, rose and grapefruit. Too bad the evolution is towards a very harsh and quite common, synthetic woody- amber.
Happy May! May 2, 2015 at 1:12pm
Victoria: I wasn’t crazy about that line either, mostly because the perfumes have blunt characters and drydown to the harsh amber. The ideas are interesting, but the final result isn’t finessed. May 2, 2015 at 1:23pm
Emma: I haven’t tested it and I probably won’t bother now. I haven’t found any L’artisan fragrance I can honestly say I like since Oeillet Sauvage, the original not the current reformulation which smells more or less like Cartier Baiser Volé.
Everything is so light, boring and pale now, even Serge Lutens is taking this direction, I’m already bored with La Religieuse, anyways I wouldn’t expect L’artisan launching today a bouquet of rich and noble flowers such as pre-reformulation Patou Amour Amour and JOY. Actually I think I feel like wearing Amour Amour now! May 2, 2015 at 1:22pm
Victoria: Amour Amour will certainly put you in the right mood if you’re feeling tired of pale and light perfumes. 🙂 Or Joy, for that matter! May 2, 2015 at 1:28pm
Emma: I find Amour Amour brighter, more cheerful and uplifting than JOY in a way.
I tested the new Chloé Love Story the other day, a depressing generic white floral that bored to death the second I tested it but the worst were the rave reviews I found online, perfumistas who find sexy, clean and glamorous. Something must be wrong with me, glamorous in my book are old Patou and Caron, not anorexic detergent florals! May 2, 2015 at 3:40pm
Victoria: Do you like the new version of Amour Amour? May 4, 2015 at 6:15am
Martyn: Rose, just because it’s so ubiquitous (like thousands of other schoolkids on their way home on a hot afternoon, I picked rose petals to float in water and then give to my mum as “scent”, and it has stayed with me ever since), is probably one of the most difficult of fragrances to get right. When I say “get right”, I mean, to find it matches one’s perception of what rose ought to smell like. I haven’t tried this one, partly because L’A P’s perfumes are beyond the range of my pocket, but partly because we’ve each discovered a rose that — to us — is “right”. I set out on the search because I wanted something that wouldn’t fight with the face cream I use (by Eve Lom), and I found Le Labo’s Rose 31. My other half, who usually avoids department store perfume counters like the plague, walked into a spritz of Paul Smith’s Rose by mistake and found she quite liked it. I don’t think either of them are in your list, though. May 2, 2015 at 1:37pm
Victoria: I can’t agree with you more, Martyn. This is why the photorealistic roses are so unsatisfying in the end.
Paul Smith’s Rose is very good, and it has been on my to review list for a while. May 4, 2015 at 5:57am
Tati: I definitely tend to the dark roses. My favorites being Lyric Woman and Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan. But I want a daytime rose. I’ve recently fallen hard for Mohur except that wonderful rose, sandalwood, almond smell is entirely a skin scent within an hour! I can’t see stepping up to the extrait due to price. A new one (for me) that I’m considering FBW as a daytime rose is Lubin’s Black Jade. May 2, 2015 at 7:59pm
Victoria: I heard this complaint about Mohur, although I must be very sensitive to its woody notes, because I can smell it for ages. I also understand that the new version of extrait is much more long lasting, because it was reformulated.
For a day time rose, have you smelled Atelier Cologne’s Rose Anonyme? It’s not overly light, but it’s definitely radiant and with a dose of dark woods. May 4, 2015 at 6:18am
bregje: Thank you victoria,for this review.
I was just hoping last week that you would give an update on this one 😉 .
I was hoping for a fresh,herbal spring-rose but i guess it does not smell like that.
It’s funny how i always keep looking for an even more perfect rose,haha
While YSL Paris probably is the most effervescent rose-perfume that will ever be made. I’ve been wearing it for ages.
I love Stella(and a couple of the lighter flankers like’ in two peony’)
I have la fille de Berlin,rose essentielle,bvlgari femme,Eternity,etc,etc
And yet,i want more and different.
Unfortunately sa majeste turns musty on my skin.
So i guess my quest will go on.
Maybe i’ll get to finally try balenciaga l’eau rose when i’m in italy this summer… May 4, 2015 at 7:29pm
Victoria: What a great rose run down, Bregje! Good that you mentioned La Fille de Berlin, one of my favorites. May 5, 2015 at 1:28pm