Guerlain Mitsouko is the scent of golden autumn days, ripe peaches and burnished wood. Created by Jacques Guerlain in 1919, Mitsouko was a variation on the avant-garde fragrance of the period–Coty Chypre.
Chypre was based on the startling contrast among the bergamot top notes, the jasmine heart and the richness of oakmoss. Though undoubtedly beautiful, Chypre was brutal in its impact. Guerlain took the idea behind its famous forerunner and made it elegant and refined. A soft accent of peach skin gives Mitsouko a tender quality and a teasing gourmand impression. A classical Guerlinade accord of tonka bean, vanilla, iris and rose further refines and rounds out the composition. Mitsouko is a kiss to Coty Chypre’s slap in the face, and for this reason, its popularity endures to this day.
Nevertheless, Mitsouko can be a difficult perfume for someone unaccustomed to the inky bitterness of oakmoss. An integral component of a chypre style of fragrances, moss lends a beautiful bittersweet sensation. Like other grand parfums of its era, Mitsouko is also a temperamental creature. Unlike linear, modern compositions, she does not reveal her beauty all at once and forces you to savor her slowly. Mitsouko inspired classics like Rochas Femme, Guerlain Chant d’Aromes, Yves Saint Laurent Y, Yves Saint Laurent Champagne/Yvresse. Today, its influence is felt in Gucci Rush, Jean Patou Enjoy, and to an extent, in Guerlain Idylle.
On Reformulation (added 12/17/10):
Ah, the beautiful Mitsouko, over the reformulation of which so much ink was spilled. Initially, it is quite lovely with its peachy, spicy-anisic top. The main differences become obvious in the drydown, where the absence of dark oakmoss renders the base thin. 24 hours later on a blotter, Mitsouko is just a crisp, sheer Veramoss (oakmoss synthetic) and musk. On skin, the cinnamon and vanilla come through readily, which gives Mitsouko a surprisingly cheery, even jejune demeanor. While these notes are present in the original, they are more blended, so they do not stand out quite as much. If I would have worn Mitsouko extensively, I would have been disappointed. Given the new restrictions on raw materials originally used in Mitsouko, I can only say that the reformulation is a valiant attempt to capture the spirit of the original. As such, it is done as well as can be expected under the circumstances. I prefer the parfum to the sharper eau de toilette.
On Reformulation Continued (11/23/13):
Proving that reformulation is not an irreversible phenomenon that only leads to disasters, Guerlain’s new version of Mitsouko is a big improvement on its other reformulations. The creamy peaches, spicy cinnamon, and cool moss are all there, and the perfume once again feels harmonious. The dark classical oakmoss that smells like ink stained woods and walnut shells is not present (thanks to the new stringent regulations), but the dusky impression is mimicked by different woods, patchouli and new mossy aroma-materials.
It’s an obvious improvement on the version that was available previously, and when I compare them side by side, I see that the new Mitsouko is rounded, warmer and more plush. The Eau de Toilette has a bright citrusy accent, the Eau de Parfum is all about golden peaches, and the extrait de parfum emphasizes the dark jasmine. All three are baroque and rich.
I’ve checked the batch number on my bottle, and it is 3W01. I was told at the boutique that 3 stands by 2013, so if you’re interested in finding the new reformulation, please use this as the guide.
99 Comments
Robin: I have tried the parfum, and sadly, I still don’t love it, despite that fact that I love many chypres. It is one of my biggest perfume failings. I hope to grow into it some day. May 25, 2005 at 8:28pm
N aka parislondres: ITA that the parfum of mitsouko is the very best and then the EDP. How I love Guerlains dear V!
xoxo May 25, 2005 at 4:46pm
N aka parislondres: Today I had a tour with two clients and one of the women simply fell for Mitsouko instantly and was so emotional about it and had tears of joy in her eyes. I had tears in my eyes too as it is such a beautiful fragrance that evokes such emotions. May 26, 2005 at 11:11am
Romina: Rightfully one of the greatest. But it is a “sad” scent. Amazing how perfumes can really convey a story. June 23, 2006 at 10:23pm
tiare: I remember vividedly the day that I decided to go and get tested for a correct scent for me. Previous to that day, I had worn many different perfumes (Joy du Patou, Oscar, channel number 9) I was all over the map and I wanted to be owned by and to posess my “own” scent.
I explained all of this to the perfume consultant at I Magnin’s in SF about 20 years ago. We tested a few different things before she brought out Mitsouko. For me it really was love -I should say (all caps)it was exactly what I was looking for -all of it!!
I really don’t know much about the art of fine perfume, but I do know this -for me it is exactly perfect, it was then at age 20 and it still is today. The complexity, sometimes sweet, sometimes other but always me. Thanks so much to the man for creating it!!!! November 9, 2006 at 2:11am
Bois de Jasmin: Tiare, what a beautiful story! Thank you so much for sharing it. It is really a pleasure to encounter something so beautiful that you do not want to look anywhere else. November 11, 2006 at 3:36pm
Dr. Linda Greene: It is becoming more difficult to find Mitsouko, the body lotion is very difficult, please let me know where to purchase the body lotion. January 5, 2007 at 12:21pm
BoisdeJasmin: Linda, I think that your best bet would be online stores. I just did a quick Google search, and here is what I came up with:
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLG,GGLG:2005-32,GGLG:en&q=mitsouko+lotion
Many of these are reliable. Perfumemart is the one I purchase from rather often. January 5, 2007 at 4:11pm
SmarteCookie: Though Mitsouko is lovely, sadly this perfume does not smell right ON me anymore. Really a shame. I am selling my remaining new bottles (in boxes) on eBay, and would love for them to go to someone who really loves Mitsouko! Feel free to look me up, my username is SmarteCookie. Thank you. March 22, 2007 at 11:05am
Grainne: Mitsouko was my favourite 30 years ago, and I went sad as I began to dislike it. I thougt I grew out of it. But then I heard from a little parfum-creating company that they changed the ingredients from natural ones to synthetics, at least many of them.
So, I did not grow out of it, I smelled the difference and I disliked it.
That company creates individual unique perfumes, I have got one of my own now. It is not too expensive and it is wonderful, just what I always wanted to have and be in.
They are able to reproduce the old ones like mitsouko, with natural ingredients, but thats very expensive because of the whole analysing jobs they have to do. January 25, 2008 at 4:41pm
[email protected]: i have worn mitsouko for about 20 years and it as become part of me. it was given to me by my stepfather who before that used to complain every morning when i came in for breakfast that i smelled of perfume and he hated it..it was a guerlain perfume also (shalimar). i tried it and since then i love it and have not ever even tried an other perfume. as for grainne’s comment: i have read the same things as you did a few year ago and so bought a few bottles to make sure i would still have the real thing but now i have run out and the last bottle i bought just smells the same on me…so i will stick with guerlain July 1, 2011 at 9:43pm
Lelia: (I love this blog BTW, it’s a delight.)I adore this scent and have done so for close to 40 years. When I was young, I wore Revlon Intimate or Carven Ma Griffe, or Coty Muguet de Bois in high school, then White Shoulders for a spell, then Laroche Fidji, Caron’s Fleur de Rocaille in summer, or Narcisse Noir if wearing black – often matching one of a number of scents to my clothes, like makeup. My grandmother gave me Chanel No. 5 – terrible on me although I suppose it’s truly classic. Seems brittle and somewhat thin to me. Nor do I like the Youth Dews and Opiums of the world that are so overtly, heavily sensual, so obvious. Somehow, I discovered Mitsouko, and I do not remember where, but it was like finding your soulmate. It has a certain melancholy, and yet a proud and confident air, an aura of suppressed passion, that to me is very artistic. I don’t care that much for Shalimar, too showy, and while all Guerlains are brilliant, Parure being my next favorite – Mitsouko is my true love. I have been seeking out old bottles, as the new formulation is a paltry substitute, on me at least. October 1, 2011 at 8:46pm
Victoria: Lelia, I agree!! The new version pales next to the original. Your list of favorites is fun to read–so many jewels of grand parfums. 🙂
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile October 1, 2011 at 9:20pm
Erry: i was in the middle of writing my review on mitsouko(a long and detailed story of my encounter with mitsouko) when suddenly the browser crashed. shoot!!
anyway, to keep it short, i have a hard time looking for mitsouko and when i found it, it did something that no fragrance had ever done to me. i was bewildered! mitsouko, for me, is like a kaleidoscope. you’ll find something new and different every time you smell it. i went in and out of my room to smell the “trapped” scent; i buried my head in the bed sheet to immerse myself in it.
and that’s only the reformulation. i wonder what the “real thing” would do to me.
and that makes me want to find the vintage mitsouko. oh help … October 17, 2011 at 5:08pm
Carrie: There is vintage Mitsouko available on Ebay. I just bought a vintage bottle of Opium, unopened and in good condition, also a couple small bottle of vintage Magie Noire, so I’m pretty confident buying perfume on Ebay.
I first discovered Mitsouko in the early 1980s and wore it for a few years. I was craving it again and bought a bottle of the EDT around 2006. I’m glad I got some before the reformulation, and this bottle will last me the rest of my life.
I agree with the above poster, it does convey a feeling of ‘sadness’ sometimes.
The reformulating (and ruining) of so many beautiful perfumes is such a disaster. I wasn’t aware of this until recently, and I actually cried over the news. December 29, 2011 at 11:55am
Rosalie Ferrer Kramer: In 1927 my father bought my mother a large bottle of Grerlain’s Mitsoko on their honeymoon. She wore it all her life, but switched to toilet water when it became very expensive When my husband and I were in Paris in 1976 we bought her another bottle, but not a large as the one she had. After my mother’s death I discovered that she never opened it, so I took it home and have enjoyed wearing a drop of it every once in a while. Mother may be gone but every drop of that scent reminds me of her. I love it too. April 17, 2012 at 2:53pm
Domestic Goblin: I am now the proud owner of Mitsouko, Eau de Parfum. I fell in love with it instantly which is the complete opposite reaction when I tried Apres L’ondee… I just could not appreciate AL and after two months of trying, I reluctantly had to sell it on eBay… July 1, 2012 at 12:42pm
Valerie: I have just found this blog … how lovely … Yes, Mitsouko is mysterious … oh so lovely when it has ‘dried down’. At first I could only wear the body lotion, as the eau de perfume was too pungent and a bit acidic on me. But eventually I have managed to use the perfume too, and I love it. It is so gorgeous, when after spraying it in the bedroom, I walk back in, and there is the most lovely, beautiful, mysterious fragrance lingering. I LOVE IT, love it, love it. But I also love Shalimar too!! Both are very, very feminine. July 7, 2012 at 7:06am
Victoria: Thank you, Valerie! I also took a while to warm up to Mitsouko. At first, it was so mossy and damp to me, I couldn’t take. I still kept revisiting me, because it intrigued me so much, and now it’s one of the perfumes I never want to part with. July 7, 2012 at 4:42pm
Rosalie: My mother bought Guerlain Mitsouko on her honeymoon in 1927. I love it too. See wore it all her life. Now I love it too. It always reminds me of my mother and Pais. July 7, 2012 at 5:08pm
Victoria: That’s such a lovely memory, Rosalie. Thank you very much for sharing. July 7, 2012 at 5:10pm
Dl: I managed to get some pre-reformulation mitsouko a few months ago having been in love with the post reformulation one for year. I do see the difference in the dry down ( the pre-reformulation is darker and sOmehow feels denser) but I am overall very satisfied by the reformulatiOn and am always surprised when I read that it doesn’t compare to the original. I guess I’m lucky that my nose doesn’t smell that huge of a difference 🙂 August 7, 2012 at 6:47pm
Victoria: Not just lucky, but also very wise to focus on the positive! 🙂 After all, let’s face it–Mitsouko is still a very good perfume. I also find it beautiful and wear it time to time. As I mention in my review, if I would have worn the original faithfully, I probably would have been more disappointed, but I grew to love Mitsouko not for the dense mossy darkness (that’s really subtle now), but for its gilded peaches and spicy warmth.
(btw, thanks to your comment I noticed that I had a mistake in my star rating, the reformulation should be 4, not 3). August 8, 2012 at 2:50am
Dl: Glad I could help! 🙂 I guess if one doesn’t focus on the positive when it comes to reformulations, it’s very easy to get depressed. I can’t get over the fact that I won’t get to experience the Carons in all their glory for instance ( poivre and tabac blond mostly). But the demise of the perfume industry in general has created a sort of paranoia amongst us perfumistas, and there is often an exaggeration, probably due to nostalgia, when describing reformulated fragrances. being against reformulations (which I am in theory) doesn’t imply that they all disfigure the original perfume as some people are prone to conclude. this is another thing I really appreciate about your blog: there is always a certain lucidity in your evaluation of reformulations. August 8, 2012 at 3:50am
Victoria: Thank you. 🙂 I try! Otherwise, you deny yourself lots of pleasant and surprising discoveries. Plus, nothing stays the same and somehow things always seem to be better in the good old days. I don’t like thinking this way, because it feels too depressing. What’s gone is gone. Might as well focus on what we have right now. August 8, 2012 at 9:34am
Ferris: Which is better No 19 or Mitsouko? I like No 19, but I havent tried the Guerlain’s chypre. Another one to add to my sample list. February 15, 2013 at 9:18am
Victoria: They are completely different! February 15, 2013 at 9:33am
Alicia: I love perfume, and hopefully my wardrobe consists of good ones, Chanel #5 and #19, 31 Rue Cambon, Lanvin Arpege, Boucheron, S. Lutens Bois de Violettes, Rochas Tocade, Goutal’s L’Heure Exquise, Caron’s Farnesiana and vintage Narcisse Noir, and of course my favorite Guerlains: Chamade, L’Heure Bleue and Nahema. But for some mysterious resons I have two blind spots: Patou’s Joy, and the incomparable Mitsouko. I am training myself, carefully, to get used to Mitsouko. Not that I intend to adopt it, but at least to be able to enjoy it. I feel in a certain way as I were unable to enjoy the Mona Lisa. It was one of my mother’s favorite fragrances, together with Narcisse Noir, which I love. Sadly I am unable o smell the peach or the rose in it. The case of Joy is a mystery to me; I am fond of both jasmine and rose, so what is it? Too indolic? Too much civet? Whatever it is I seem unable to find any joy in Joy. With so many perfumes to choose from, I shouldn’t worry, but I do. The reason is simple; when I teach a difficult literary masterpiece there are always students that start disliking it, until they come to understand its value. How I would like to understand the value of Mitsouko and Joy! April 5, 2013 at 7:12am
marios: Victoria i checked this EDT last weekend and i find it quite mossy in a way that can be used by a man as well. Those who like mouchoir or Jicky, will find this slight soapy/powdery feeling in Mitsuko. what do you say? strictly for women or not? June 12, 2013 at 10:24am
Victoria: It would definitely be perfect for men too! Charlie Chaplin wore it. June 12, 2013 at 12:22pm
marios: I would like to ask you a question. which one you thing is the most handsome masculine perfume for men around 40s? price is not a problem, niche or mainstream. just let me know 2-3 if possible…that can be used all year round more or less. thank you very much 🙂 June 12, 2013 at 3:14pm
Victoria: We’ve just had a discussion on this very topic. The article is still on the front page, and I hope you enjoy it. It’s called “Fragrances for Women that Work for Men.” June 13, 2013 at 1:31am
marios: you suggest me EDT or EDP? i need some longevity but not too much sweetness. July 10, 2013 at 9:13am
Victoria: The EDT is less sweet, and it lasts really well. July 10, 2013 at 9:14am
ferris Égoïste: Marlos did you try the current formulation or vintage edt? June 14, 2013 at 12:05pm
marios: No I’m not talking for female fragrances, for male fragrances i talk. Which 2-3 you recommend being unique, purely masculine that can be used as a singature scent? can you please be so kind to assist? I’m in late 30’s June 13, 2013 at 1:50am
Belle: Ooooh Victoria! According to a review in makeupalley, the very first one in Mitsy’s page, the newest batches (2013) smell like the vintage version! Have you tried it yet? July 7, 2013 at 12:44am
Victoria: Mmmm, the anticipation! I haven’t tried it yet, but I will do now. Still a bit skeptical that it can ever be like the vintage version, given the restrictions on some key ingredients in Mitsouko, but hope springs eternal. 🙂 July 7, 2013 at 4:10pm
Ferris: I hope so Im excited to try it. Is the current formulation in Guerlain boutiques now? July 8, 2013 at 3:08am
carole: So funny-
I was just given a bottle (maybe a tester) from 2002, and it says in big letters on the back PEACH AND OAKMOSS. So oakkmoss was a selling feature! And it’s just great-it smells of peaches, and wood, and spice. I finally found a version of Mitsuko to love.
I also was given a 1998 tester of Chamade, which is really wonderful, and a big bottle of Eau de Roche. September 18, 2013 at 6:06pm
Victoria: Wow, that’s interesting! September 19, 2013 at 11:45am
Edward: Hello Victoria,
Try as I might, I really, really cannot appreciate this perfume. 🙁 And you are spot on when you wrote “it is a difficult perfume for someone unaccustomed…” Admittedly, the only chypre perfume I own is Jubilation 25 so maybe I am not really into it? Money saved? Yes. But I want this to grow on me so I will try to revisit every now and then and who knows I will “get it” soon.
Warm regards,
Edward September 18, 2013 at 7:04pm
Victoria: Mitsouko is definitely a challenge. But even if you don’t find it compelling, smelling it is still interesting. It’s perfectly fine not to like all classics that are considered masterpieces. They can be somewhat polarizing, since their characters are so strong. September 19, 2013 at 11:47am
claire: Hi Victoria !
I’m French and I wish to thank you for this beautiful comment and also, to tell there is a new reformulation in 2013 by Thierry Wasser. A great reformulation ! As vintage fragrance. Sooooooo beautiful !
I like to read You ! September 24, 2013 at 5:08am
Victoria: Thank you very much, Claire! I will smell it next. September 24, 2013 at 9:28am
claire: The reformulation 2013 is great. The batchcode begins by 3 as 2013. Under the box and under the bottle.
Really it’s a beautiful work according specialists. Like you. Give us your opinion please ,! September 24, 2013 at 1:41pm
Marlena: How will I know if I am buying this latest transformation? I am very new to perfume buying. Guerlain altered my world with regard to the senses. I disliked all other perfumes until I sprayed Mitsouko. I love it in all forms but am interested in exploring this new take. November 26, 2013 at 10:35am
Victoria: You could simply bring a sample of your current Mitsouko and compare it to the version at the store. Besides smelling, I don’t know of an objective way to figure out the difference. You can also ask the SA from what year is their Mitsouko. They may not know, but perhaps, you will come across someone who might. November 26, 2013 at 10:59am
Cacomixtle: Ah, I was wondering this too… I live so far in the wilderness that I buy nearly all of my perfumes online. I love Mitsouko, and would very much like to try the new reformulation, but it seems quite difficult to figure out which version is which when buying that way. November 26, 2013 at 11:26am
Victoria: I’ll try to check next time and see if I can figure out a sure way. I would expect that by next year all big retailers should have the new version. It has only been launched recently. November 26, 2013 at 11:29am
James: http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.it/2013/10/how-to-recognize-guerlain-perfumes.html November 27, 2013 at 6:07pm
Victoria: Thank you! November 27, 2013 at 6:39pm
Cacomixtle: Oh, that’s wonderful, thank you! November 26, 2013 at 11:34am
Amer: “ink stained woods and walnut shells”…
Thanks for the epiphany!!! For years (since I first got a sample of the raw material) I have been busting my head to pin point what it reminded me of. Walnut shells (and leaves)!!! I’ll never be able to thank you enough! November 26, 2013 at 4:33pm
Victoria: It struck so recently, when I tasted the Catalan walnut liqueur and the connection to oakmoss was immediate. Glad that I’m not the only one! November 27, 2013 at 11:01am
Amer: My mother always kept dried walnut leaves in the closet where she kept woolen clothes to deter the moths. Furthermore there is a preparation of walnuts in Greece which is called “teaspoon sweets”. It involves macerating whole unripe walnuts (shells included) in syrup and then you consume the whole thing. You can do it practically with any fruit or vegetable but I prefer the walnut kind because of the fine woody, almost perfumey aroma that is so rare in food. I bet you’d love it.
Oakmoss always smelled so familiar to me and I never realized why, until now. November 27, 2013 at 6:27pm
Victoria: My mouth is watering just thinking about it! We have that in Ukraine too. I still remember my grandmother walking around with stained fingers for days after making the candied walnuts. It was always a very special treat. I haven’t had it in ages though. You can find the commercial Greek or Armenian versions at stores, but they’re invariably too cloying and not perfumed enough.
Amazing how all of these small childhood memories shape our tastes and preferences later on. November 27, 2013 at 6:39pm
Amer: So perhaps oakmoss-mania has been axplained to a certain point for us. Too bad you can’t find it there. If you give me and address I’ll see if I can send you some of the good stuff 😉 November 29, 2013 at 10:19am
Victoria: Amer, thank you so much! November 29, 2013 at 11:19am
Alicia: Again, splendid news! To think that not long ago I didn’t like Mitsouko that much, but I trained myself. As with a difficult poem I read it many times, and then all of a sudden, I realized that not only I understood it but I loved it as well. November 26, 2013 at 4:47pm
Victoria: That’s a great comparison! I had a similar experience with Mitsouko, and while I love it now, it took me a while to “get it”. November 27, 2013 at 11:04am
Ella: I just bought the 2013 batch in EDP, and I can’t say that I love it. Granted this is the very first time I smelled this perfume. But as soon as I sprayed it, I was reminded of the smell inside an old lady’s purse. Strong, powdery, stale, like dried up (strong) potpourri. As it developed, I never got the note of peaches or roses. It continued to smell of very strong, old baby powder. Now, 3 hours in, I don’t smell anything. It never seemed to develop on me. This is to say that I am quite disappointed as its a venerable classic and I wanted to fall in love with it at first sniff (as I did with Après L’ondee). Perhaps it needs to grow on me. But at first impression, it is so disappointing.
On a side note, I love this blog! February 11, 2014 at 8:52pm
Victoria: Ella, your experience with Mitsouko mirrors my own perfectly. The truth is that it’s a challenging fragrance and it’s the best example of an acquired taste in perfumery. I suggest that you keep some of it on hand to revisit time to time. There is no need to force oneself to like it–it may not be a perfume for you, but giving it a longer courtship is essential. February 17, 2014 at 5:41am
Andre Moreau: Hi, I follow this thread since long time tryng to understand all changes of this legendary scent 🙂 and then did a little “scientific experiment” using different Mitsouko batches. The old-style Mitsouko reigned until the beginning of 2000s, then a sort of “Mitsouko flanker” arrived in 2008 and stood until 2012. Now, year 2013, it seems the old version came back, not identical, but similar. November 27, 2013 at 2:45pm
Kaat: First of all, i like this blog wel done!
Than my question,
When did they start to do the reformulation?
I have a edt from 2005 heavy bitter and feel on my skin medical, bit turns all day long in nice smell in my nose, so i start to apriciate it.
It keep for 12 hours Max on my skin.
I boght a edp 2010 and love it.
Resieved a tester edt and extract 2013
Realy very nice top clasic fragrance. May 24, 2014 at 5:37am
Victoria: They’ve been reformulating it all along, but probably the early 2000s were when the changes became particularly obvious. I like the one produced currently, and it seems to be true to the spirit of the original. May 24, 2014 at 11:37am
Linda: I am overjoyed to hear the current formula more closely resembles the original! Thank you for this information, Victoria, and for you wonderful blog, which I have been reading for years. It’s my favorite.n May 27, 2014 at 4:57am
Linda: (Sorry about the typos up there. Sluggish iPad keyboard or sluggish brain? A bit of both.) May 27, 2014 at 12:19pm
Victoria: Thank you very much, Linda! Hope that you’ll like the new Mitsouko as much as I do. May 27, 2014 at 1:44pm
GG: Hello,
I’m very pleased to have stumbled upon this blog as I am attempting to buy my mothers 50th birthday present and do not know for the life of me which is the best perfume to go for! It is her absolute favourite and so I would like to get her the most similar to the original as possible…I have found a website which provides the SKU so if anyone can shed some light I would be so grateful!…
75 ml EDP Spray – SKU 3179 – will this be the most recent reformulation and therefore the closest? They also have 50 ml EDT Spray – SKU 3942. Any help much appreciated! 🙂
Thank you in advance May 29, 2014 at 4:42am
Dilek: Where can I get the 2013 reformulation of Mitsouko. I called Bergdorf goodman in ne York, they have batch numbers with 01. November 20, 2014 at 1:34pm
yankiel marinas: An incredible amount of money and energy is spent on reformulating these classics and the results are (lets face it) ultimately deceiving.
Reformulations CAN NOT save Guerlain and Dior classic materpieces, only persuading IFRA to change their extreme regulations can. December 5, 2014 at 11:32pm
Victoria: IFRA, EU, FDA, consumer lobby groups who want labels, bans, restrictions… The list of whom one needs to persuade is endless. December 6, 2014 at 8:15am
Jason The Obscure: I’d like to set up a parfum fabricator maybe in Anarctica or Iceland. Restrictive laws on what can and cannot play a role in the exquisite sense of the aromatic sense, while turning blind eyes against artificial sweetners in food is absurd. March 8, 2015 at 9:15pm
Victoria: Absurd is exactly right! March 9, 2015 at 4:22pm
Tania: This is the only perfume my mother wore and still wears – it is definitely her scent. She fell in love with it while working as a nanny for an aristocratic French family in Paris in the 1950s – the lady of the house wore it. She had a sampler for Idylle – a little lighter – that I tried recently – I am looking for that one now I used to love Shalimar too. September 5, 2015 at 12:36pm
Victoria: Mitsouko is a beauty! September 6, 2015 at 4:53pm
Sanne: I bought a bottle of Mitsouko EdP a few weeks ago and noticed a change: it lost its peaches and cream quality and smelled more woody. I went back to the perfume shop, the shopping assistent and I smelled together, compared the new EdP with the old one I brought and we both noticed the change. We opened another bottle and it had the same woody scent. What happened to my beloved Mitsouko, my darling fragrance for over 15 years? Was it just a bad batch? Or is there something else going on? A EU driven reformulation perhaps? October 8, 2015 at 4:43pm
Victoria: It’s impossible to keep up with the reformulations these days. Based on your story, sounds like it was tweaked yet again, but I’m surprised that the peachy part was the one that got diminished. October 9, 2015 at 11:46am
Sanne: Yes, I was surprised too! Last reformulation was quite good. I changed my bottle of EdP for a bottle of EdT, which still had the peachy quality, but is definitely thinner and has less sillage. October 9, 2015 at 12:17pm
Bonnie: The EdP has indeed been reformulated, and not in a good way. I bought two bottles last week because my 2013 EdP is almost gone and I wanted to be sure and have backups in case of a reformulation. Too late! The batch codes on my new bottles begin with 5, indicating 2015 as the production year. This EdP smells like a flanker with too much vanilla, almost like Shalimar with a pound of tree moss thrown in. I could cry. Who can afford to keep hunting down acceptable older bottles on eBay? Not I. Anyway, I’ve ordered an inexpensive EdT refill bottle to see if it’s been changed, too. October 29, 2015 at 12:47pm
Bonnie: I just saw Sanne’s comment about the EdT being peachy still, but thin, with less sillage. Zsa Zsa Gabor is credited with saying: Never love anything that can’t love you back; never cry over anything that can’t cry over you. She must not have met pre-IFRA Mitsouko. 🙁 October 29, 2015 at 1:56pm
Alessandra: Bonnie, Guerlain had a problem manufacturing Mitsouko EDP in 2015. They have even recalled it from the Guerlain stores. So don’t buy Mitsouko with code starting with 5. Mitsouko will be available again in february 2016. January 6, 2016 at 11:28pm
Petunia: Hi Bonnie, I’m not sure if you will see this.
Can you tell me where you saw this recall information for 2015 Guerlain Mitsouko? I tried a search but nothing popped up. I am the person who split the two bottle special with Julie below. Now I want to contact the merchant and see if what my options are. Of course I feel terrible that I split a bad batch with my dear friend. We both have bottles that begin with “5”.
Thanks, January 7, 2016 at 9:25am
Linda: I would love to know more about this, too. I did buy a bottle of EDP in 2015, and gave up on it after three wearings. Sadly, I concluded it was another loss to reformulation and regulation. It smelled like a men’s cologne mildly reminiscent of Mitsouko. Your news has made me hopeful again! January 7, 2016 at 1:35pm
Sanne: Thank you, Alessandra, for this useful information. I’ll wait for the new batch! January 24, 2016 at 6:42am
Julie: Dear Victoria,
I just tried this for the first time in past two weeks…after all the anticipation & wonder, it’s a beauty. I smell a lot of golden peaches, so glad I tried it. A friend of mine made the recent purchase (the EDP) of two bottles due to a special after Thanksgiving. How sweet of her to include me on a great deal of this perfume. She has a small decant that I tried before opening the new box. 🙂 Your review is so accurate as usual! Have a great weekend. December 18, 2015 at 2:20pm
Victoria: Your friend is so thoughtful and generous, Julie. Of course, I’m happy to hear that you like Mitsouko and that you also find golden peaches in it. 🙂 December 18, 2015 at 3:38pm
Carina: Victoria I got it for xmas!! But I havent received it yet, only in january.
But Im sooooo happy to own such a legendary perfume now!! December 23, 2015 at 8:37am
Bigsly: Hi, I checked my EdT bottle and it’s 1P01, which seems to be February, 2011 (Cosmetic Check site). The box lists treemoss but not oakmoss, so I would like to know what other boxes way that are from around this period fo time. Thanks! September 25, 2017 at 8:03pm
Theresa Kennedy DuPay: Just smelled it today, a girl was wearing it at a coffee shop and I had to ask her about it. She told me the whole story. It was so refreshing because she was easily only 22 or 23. I’ve literally never smelled anything more amazing, gorgeous and complex. I must get some now…. December 10, 2018 at 1:54am
Linda: Theresa, what a wonderful story! I am so heartened that such a young person would be wearing it. Gives me hope! December 10, 2018 at 2:06pm
Theresa Kennedy DuPay: Linda, I’m a writer and author in Portland, Oregon. My third book is being released and despite having three new books coming out in 2019, I still find time to write articles, mainly creative nonfiction, about a variety of topics that capture my interest. My author name is Theresa Griffin Kennedy, and I’m on most social media. I’m extremely interested in the history of perfumery and how Perfume impacts a woman’s sense of well being, sense of self, and identity.
I’ve begun writing an article in this perfume exclusively, Mitsouko or “Mitzi,” as the nickname goes, it’s importance historically and the science behind the Chypre type of perfume that Gurlain made famous and its powerful effect on women and our olfactory senses.
Do you know if anyone who can share any articles or books detailing Mitsouko and it’s history and public perception?
Are you an Admin here? Can I use some of the comments from this thread? December 10, 2018 at 5:05pm
Victoria: You’d have to solicit individual permissions from the commenters. Failing that, no, it wouldn’t be right to use people’s words without their explicit permission. December 11, 2018 at 4:58am
Linda Green: Since this conversation was posted under my comment, and addressed to me by name…for myself, no, I do not give permission to use my words. December 11, 2018 at 4:30pm
Cecilia: Dear Victoria,
I would like to ask how is the late nineties version compared to the current reformulation (which I really, really love)? It is good?
I just found a 1998 edp refill bottle in a local antique shop and, since it is not so cheap compared to the current in store veraion, I was wondering if it is worth purchasing.
Thank you very much!! February 23, 2019 at 2:58am
Marianne Florian: Mitsouko is also a great cat name! July 15, 2021 at 12:41am
Amanda M: Oh yes! Most definitely I agree – Mitsouko would be a beautiful name for a cat. What a lovely thought. 😊 September 10, 2022 at 12:24am
Rain: Hi everyone,
So, if the choice is between Mitsouko, Chamad and Nahema, WHICH should I get?! No seller close by that has them, so I can’t test them out prior to purchase, unfortunately. HELP!
(I don’t mind spicy, heady, oriental fragrances, if that is of any help.
Currently alternating between ELDO’s You or Someone Like You and Amouage’s Interlude.) December 10, 2022 at 9:30am