Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
A flower of many symbols, rose originated in Persia, where it was considered to be a masculine flower and a flower representing the divine, the ultimate achievement and perfection, since a fragrant blossom crowns its long, thorny stem. Possessing additional symbolism of secrecy and mystery, rose eventually became associated with beauty and love. Hindu goddess of prosperity Lakshmi, whose beauty was considered unrivaled, is supposed to have been born from a rose composed of 108 large and 1,008 small petals. Roman goddess of love, Venus, counted rose among her emblems.
In this light, it is fitting that the newest Les Parfums de Rosine fragrance should intertwine the themes of love and rose. Rose d’Amour was created by Camille Latron, the nose behind Rosa Flamenca. The aldehydic touch makes Rose d’Amour as classical as a bouquet of red roses. However, in contrast to the classical interpretations, Rose d’Amour is barely touched by the sparkling aldehydic veil, which lends a lovely luminous counterpoint to the rich floral motif coursing through the arrangement. …
Unlike most Rosine fragrances, which are a rainfall of rose petals from the very start, Rose d’Amour reveals a completely new side. The green and spicy top accord is reminiscent of snapping juicy stems and spilling sticky juice on the fingers. Crispy and vivid at first, its dewy sparkle soon begins to warm up, segueing into the powdery softness of the heart inlaid with velvety rose petals.
The composition has a warm silky quality, with the rose toned down by the violet woodiness to a gentle whisper. The vegetal element persists into the drydown, foiling the honeyed sweetness and earthiness of the base. Rose d’Amour is a soft fragrance that will not announce its presence to the whole room, even though it will delicately caresses its wearer.
Les Parfums de Rosine is directed by Marie-Hélène Rogeon who is a descendant of the founder of the original Parfums de Rosine house, Paul Poiret. Approximately fifty perfumes were released by Poiret, a famous couturier of the 20th century, many of which were designed by Henri Alméras, the creator of Jean Patou Joy. However, when Marie-Hélène Rogeon decided to revive Parfums de Rosine in 1991, the reintroduction of the old formulas was decided against in favor of new compositions exploring the theme of roses, from the scintillating Ecume de Rose to the woody chypre Une Folie de Rose. Many of the fragrances were composed by François Robert (and Roseberry by Pierre Bourdon), with the latest compositions created by Camille Latron. The house offers great options both for those who already love roses and for those who are convinced that rose is an old-fashioned theme. The Rosine fragrance might change that impression, especially with the apple sweetened Rose d’Été and the citrusy Un Zest de Rose.
Notes include ginger, galbanum, bergamot, aldehyde, rosebud, essences of roses, iris, jasmine, moss, musk, pepper, vetiver. Rose d’Amour samples, 50ml and 100ml bottles are currently available at First-in-Fragrance.
Painting: Dante Gabriel Rossetti. Venus Verticordia. 1864-1868. Oil on canvas. Rossetti Cotes Art Gallery and Museum, Bournemouth, UK. From abcgallery.com
Next on the rose topic: Exploration of the sinister side of rose. Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit.
32 Comments
Judith: This sounds lovely, and I will definitely try it. I tend particularly to like darker rose scents, however. Are there any in the Rosine line that would fit that description? Have a wonderful day! January 23, 2006 at 7:14am
paru: As always, this was a fascinating article. The smell of rose is always something a bit strange for me. Growing up in an Indian family, I would often smell rose water, and that is my olfactory memory of rose. But I actually make no association between that and the flower itself since most roses that I ever encounter are grown for their size and colour, not their smell. I find it to be a rather odd disconnect. January 23, 2006 at 10:15am
Laura: Yes, most Rosine fragrances ARE ‘a rainfall of rose petals from the very start!’ What a lovely and accurate observation. I’m intrigued by your description of this one, so will put it on the To Try list. I also found your history of the house fascinating! Rose d’Ete is one of my husband’s favorites of my perfumes, btw. I love it too. I think there is a tiny thread of melancholy in it that delights me. January 23, 2006 at 5:51am
Anya: How wonderful that they are focused on rose and all its variations. That in itself is old-fashioned and an artistic statement you rarely see nowadays. The history of the company draws me in to sample more of their scents, as I like the Ecume de Rose I have. I do, however, find it very old-fashioned, in a non-romantic, more granny’s sachet sort of way.
It’s great to see they differentiate between rosebud and rose essence, and use both in the Rose d’Amour. I make infusions and tinctures of rosebuds to supplement the various rose absolutes and ottos, as they provide a different scent entirely. I’m supposing they have a growner/distiller relationship for the rosebuds in the manner of Chanel with the Rose de Mai for Chanel No. 5, since it is not available on the market. Or not. Perhaps a synth.
Is the galbanum assertive in this perfume? I think that pairing could be very interesting if the gal and rose play together in the drydown. January 23, 2006 at 7:22am
malini: I was born in India and it is very nice how much you know about my country. I love the smell of rose but I love jasmine more. I remember my grandmother putting chameli ka tel in my hair. It is oil smelling of jasmine. January 23, 2006 at 12:48pm
Robin: V, I was enthralled right up to “powdery softness of the heart”…now I must ask: how powdery? January 23, 2006 at 12:54pm
Christine: Sounds lovely, but like Robin I also have to ask, how powdery is it? January 23, 2006 at 12:56pm
BoisdeJasmin: L, I do like an occasional rainfall of rose petals. It is great to experience something different for a change. It is very delicate and soft, almost cashmere like in its effect. January 23, 2006 at 1:08pm
BoisdeJasmin: Judith, this one is definitely not dark or dramatic. You might like consider exploring Une Folie de Rose, which is a lovely chypre. The rest of roses from the collection may not suit your tastes as much. January 23, 2006 at 1:10pm
BoisdeJasmin: Anya, galbanum is used with a light touch here, and I am trying to imagine how a heavier dose might have worked. The spicy element is definitely a welcome addition to the top notes as well.
I also find it refreshing for the house to focus on the rose theme. After all, it is very difficult to be innovative as rose has been done so many times before.
Ecume is lovely, even if not very modern! January 23, 2006 at 1:13pm
BoisdeJasmin: P, the commercial roses do not have any scent at all, other than that of the paper, in which they are wrapped. I find it very unfortunately. For me, enjoyment of flowers is about their smell first and shape second. January 23, 2006 at 1:15pm
BoisdeJasmin: M, I would imagine you enjoying this fragrance. It is such a lovely, soft rose. A bit in Rose Flamenca vein, but less powdery. January 23, 2006 at 1:16pm
BoisdeJasmin: Malini, thank you very much. I love India, where I had a chance to visit. Of course, growing up with Raj Kapoor films during my childhood is another factor. I am still a big Bollywood fan. As much as I love rose, jasmine is probably my preferred flower as well. 🙂 January 23, 2006 at 1:17pm
BoisdeJasmin: R, not overly so. It is a little bit reminiscent of Rosa Flamenca, but definitely less powdery. I doubt that you shall find the powderiness overwhelming. January 23, 2006 at 1:18pm
BoisdeJasmin: Christine, it depends on your level of tolerance for powdery. If you like crisp, clear modern florals, Rose d’Amour might be on a powdery side for you. January 23, 2006 at 1:20pm
linda: I always thought I hated roses until I started discovering that I only didn’t like overly powdery and sweet ones. If Rose d’Amour is less powdery than Flamenca, I think that I might like it. January 23, 2006 at 1:26pm
BoisdeJasmin: L, Rose d’Amour is definitely not overly powdery and sweet, but it is a try before you buy fragrance. I wonder how you might like it. I think that it is lovely, but with Rosa Flamenca and many many other roses in my collection, I am not in a rush to get it. January 23, 2006 at 1:30pm
Donna: I wonder how much I would like it, because I don’t mind powdery. My favorite Rosine is La Rose de Rosine and my least is Rose d’Ete and I also liked Mea Culpa. Too bad it was discontinued. Do you think they might bring it back? January 23, 2006 at 2:18pm
Marina: V, thank you so much for the review! I am very much looking forward to trying it now. I wish First in Fragrance didn’t have a policy of having to order EUR15 worth of samples, because this is the only scent they have that I want to try 🙁 January 23, 2006 at 11:06am
linda: Will it be at Aedes soon? On another note, I am very excited about your Rose de Nuit take for tomorrow. January 23, 2006 at 4:32pm
Liz smellslikeleaves: While I’m a huge fan of the Rosines, I’m a bit skeptical about this one since I usually strongly dislike very green, stemmy fragrances, as well as powdery fragrances and honey-sweet fragrances. But of course I’m game to give it a try at the first opportunity…Une Folie certainly wasn’t love at first sniff, but I grew to like it very much.
I await your Rose de Nuit review tomorrow with great anticipation! Since you introduced it to me, it’s become one of my favorite SL’s (in company with Tubereuse Criminelle and Cuir Mauresque). I utterly adore it, and I can’t think of any other fragrance which feels so “me at exactly this point in my life” as this one. It’s been so difficult for me to write a review, because when I wear it, my impulse is to go out and seduce the world…instead of sitting by my computer, sniffing my wrist, and contemplating what I should write to illustrate its olfactory experience. In any case, I have no doubt that you will skillfully capture the spirit of this fragrance as you have with all the others. January 23, 2006 at 8:30pm
BoisdeJasmin: Donna, when Rose d’Argent was discontinued, I heard that it might be possible to bring it back, if there would be a demand. Plus, once in a while fragrances are re-released. You never know. I liked Mea Culpa too, although it was never among my top favourites. January 24, 2006 at 1:23am
BoisdeJasmin: Linda, I think that it is a European release for now. January 24, 2006 at 1:24am
BoisdeJasmin: Liz, neither one of those elements dominates. It is rather a well-blended, smooth composition. Lovely is the best way to describe it.
I am glad that you like Rose de Nuit. It is just as you say, a seductive, mysterious fragrance. It is not a fragrance about which I can write sitting in front of my computer, nose glued to the wrist. Yet, when something is beautiful, the images come easily. Thank you for your kind words. I hope that I will fulfill the expectations. 🙂 January 24, 2006 at 1:27am
BoisdeJasmin: Thank you, dear N! I am looking forward to hearing your impressions. It still does not rival Ecume de Rose for me, but it is very pretty. January 24, 2006 at 3:27am
parislondres: Sounds very nice from your review! A friend tried it and did mention that it was rather lovely. I look forward to trying it this week. January 24, 2006 at 3:04am
mreenymo: Well…maybe? I like Rosa Flamenca, but I am not crazy about it like I am about rose d’argent or ecume de rose.
Hugs! January 24, 2006 at 11:30am
BoisdeJasmin: R, then I think that you should definitely try a sample. Rose d’Amour did not take the place of Rose d’Argent and Ecume de Rose for me. January 24, 2006 at 3:32pm
BoisdeJasmin: Oh, believe me! I know what you mean. I would love to smell those original fragrances. January 24, 2006 at 10:49pm
Campaspe: Ah, so your last comment nails it for me, though I am definitely intrigued by this one. But the part that makes me weep is … 50 fragrances, many of them created by the man who created Patou Joy.
How do we pry these out of Mme Rogeon?? hmmm? January 24, 2006 at 8:32pm
Tara: I just got this in Paris last week. In fact, I stopped into the boutique, and asked for it, and the woman said to me, it should arrive shortly, I will call over to see if someone can bring it right away. Not 5 minutes later, Marie-Helene Rogeon herself delivered a bag of the perfumes! I was so thrilled. This is one of my favorite Rosines, I loved the ginger rose notes. January 27, 2006 at 3:21pm
BoisdeJasmin: Tara, I read your account of the meeting! It must have been a wonderful trip overall. Enjoy Rose d’Amour! I think that it is very nicely done. Camille Latron is a talented perfumer. January 27, 2006 at 4:41pm