When I recently compared Guerlain classics to their reformulated versions, I decided to do a similar exercise with Caron next. I already knew that some fragrances were reformulated beyond recognition, but I did not anticipate how different they were going to be. Yet in some cases I was pleasantly surprised to find beautiful perfumes, similar to their original versions. Below are my notes that I hope might be helpful to other fans of this remarkable fragrance house which seems to be losing its identity lately.
To make the comparisons I used the same guidelines as I did recently with the Guerlain classics. With some exceptions, which I will note, I have only compared the extrait de parfum concentrations. I relied on testers at Bergdorf Goodman and at the Caron boutique. While Caron fragrances have been reformulated a number of times over the past few years, I looked only at the fragrances sold today. I have included all fragrances sold today, except for Eau de Reglisse, Eau Fraîche and Eau Pure (Violette Préciuese, Miss Rocaille, Eau de Caron and Eau Forte have been discontinued).
Star rating (referring only to the reformulated versions): 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.
The original Acaciosa is a jasmine-orange blossom composition with an intense animalic note of leather and musk. The latest version misses the dark amber and animalic facets almost entirely, which makes Acaciosa a pretty, but unremarkable jasmine.
Alpona
The dark citrusy chypre of the original Alpona can still be glimpsed in the current version; however, the softer oakmoss notes in the base render it less exciting. It is not a bad fragrance and as far as Caron reformulations go, it is a decent one. Nevertheless, I would rather explore green chypres like Estée Lauder Private Collection or Cristalle EDT instead of Alpona.
This spicy violet, underpinned by luscious vanilla and creamy woods, is one of my current Caron favorites, both for being truthful to the original formula and for its cheerful, vivacious character. It has a distinctive, memorable presence.
A carnation gold standard, Bellodgia has been made less spicy and dark, but it still preserves its vivid flower petal rainstorm impression. While I miss the original’s smoldering spicy darkness, I still enjoy the bright rose-carnation accord in the current version. The parfum is richer and warmer, while the Eau de Toilette has a pleasant green note adorning the spicy floral heart.
En Avion
It took me several trips to the store to convince myself that I am not mixing up my testers. En Avion in its current form smells nothing like its original version–a dark orange and jasmine accord suspended over a rich leather and amber backdrop. En Avion now smells like a white floral blend sprinkled with anise. A good scent for soap or shower gel, but it does not work for me as a fine fragrance.
A surprisingly good reformulation which delighted me with its creamy violet and toasted almond macaron twist. The Eau de Parfum has a fresh green note, which contrasts nicely with the honeyed sweetness of mimosa. Overall, a wonderful mimosa based composition.
Fleur de Rocaille
A sheer rose-peony with a coconut note lending it a milky sweetness. I do not have the original to compare because I never liked this modernized version of the classical Fleurs de Rocaille. All in all, the current formula does not inspire me to explore this fragrance further.
Fleurs de Rocaille
The parfum smells like a cheap functional fragrance version of Chanel No 5. The harsh aldehydic top note lacks the original’s plush rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang notes.
Whenever people accuse me of being biased towards vintage fragrances, I point to Caron French Cancan, a vintage of little merit. The original was a heady blend of various floral notes (jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose, lilac) on a warm musky base. The new version is a cheaper variation on the theme. The Eau de Parfum is even less interesting.
Infini
The original Infini is a velvety aldehydic floral with the rich iris, lilac and tuberose heart wrapped in tonka bean and vetiver. Infini today is similar, but the quality feels poorer, with the synthetic sandalwood overtaking the drydown. Still, it is an interesting floral idea.
Lady Caron
Originally, Lady Caron was a rather boring white floral bouquet that smelled like an air freshner. Today, it is not that different, except that it smells even sharper and cheaper.
L’Anarchiste
The original version is an interesting aromatic fougère with a rich stewed apple-pear note. The version sold today is missing the rich fruity component. It is instead stronger on the green, herbal notes with a distinctive marine vibe. Pleasant, but unremarkable.
Le 3ème Homme de Caron/Third Man/Troisème Homme
This is an excellent fougère with a strong jasmine and orange blossom accord, giving it a languorous quality which is so unexpected in this type of aromatic woody composition. The current version is still excellent, just as good as what I first smelled 15 years ago.
Montaigne
A Caron I can live without, Montaigne in its reformulated state is not that different from the original. The only difference is that now it is sharper, with a screechy sandalwood note in the drydown that has replaced the original’s creamy accord. In this case, I compared only the Eau de Parfum versions.
Muguet du Bonheur
Muguet du Bonheur used to be very similar to Christian Dior Diorissimo, albeit with a stronger green note. Today, it is even greener, packed with the aroma-materials I generally associate with functional perfumery (fabric softeners and detergents). The parfum is much better but I would still take the reformulated Diorissimo over the current Muguet du Bonheur.
The dark roses and incense of the original are rendered as furniture polish and ashes. Where the original had a beautiful natural rose note, I now smell mostly rose synthetics. N’Aimez Que Moi was never my favorite Caron, but in its current version, it is downright unwearable for me.
Orange blossom, jasmine, narcissus on a musky ambery base, the original Narcisse Blanc was a very pretty white floral. The current version does not smell that different, albeit it is cleaner and brighter. Not a bad reformulation if you liked the original to begin with.
Narcisse Noir parfum is still a very good dark orange blossom fragrance. Even if it misses the animalic heft of the original, the opulent richness of the floral notes make up for the omission. The Eau de Toilette is less interesting: a pretty, uncomplicated orange blossom.
Nocturnes
A blend of orange blossom, jasmine and rose, Nocturnes is suspended between a fresh layer of aldehydes and a dark base of sandalwood and patchouli. It was a perfectly nice soft floral bouquet, with a touch of darkness. Today it is much thinner, sharper and less luxurious. The character is the same, but the quality has plummeted.
The creamy, dark richness of Nuit de Noël is still intact in the current version of this Caron classic. However, the attenuated oakmoss note makes it somewhat less complex and beguiling. I still like this Caron though for its creamy woods, dark incense and swirl of dark roses. The parfum presents all of these facets beautifully, while the Eau de Toilette is thinner and sharper overall.
The femme fatale roses of Or et Noir are still dark and smoldering, with a wonderful mossy-patchouli undertone. The main difference is that I smell less natural rose and more rose alcohols, which lend Or et Noir an unexpected lemony and zesty quality. Still, it is a good dark rose for those who like this fragrance genre.
A dry oriental fragrance that avoids gourmand associations, Parfum Sacré is still a fantastic spicy composition. It is thinner and sharper than it used to be; however, it is balanced very nicely and the differences are less perceptible in wear than in some other Caron reformulations. There is now a Parfum Sacré Intense version which amplifies the rich woods and incense facets of the composition.
Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi
I admit that I do not find the original Pois de Senteur particularly interesting. Yet, it was a well-done, powdery floral, with a rich linden blossom and lily of the valley heart. Now it smells heavy and unbalanced, with the vanilla musk and heliotropine forming the main impression.
Poivre and Coup de Fouet
Wearing the original Poivre is an exhilarating experience that can only be compared to biting into a black peppercorn crust atop steak au poivre. The spicy rose underscoring the fiery pepper and woods lent the composition a certain dark vision of glamor. The current version is more pink than crimson, and as such, its beauty has been lost. The cinnamon, clove and pepper notes are quite attenuated, with the final result verging on bland. Coup de Fouet is the Eau de Toilette version of Poivre and it is even thinner.
Pour Une Femme
I love this fruity dark rose chypre composition. It has a bold, dramatic character, but the current version has so much screechy, sharp sandalwood that it makes this fragrance as pleasant to wear as to hear metal scraping glass. It is a shame because the original was quite striking.
I sighed with relief smelling this great Caron classic because it is still available in a terrific form. The luscious lavender and vanilla pairing are set into a rich accord of amber, woods and green mint — the gold standard of lavender fragrances.
Rose de Caron
The original is a pleasant, if somewhat dull, citrusy rose soliflore. The current version is similar, but it is extremely sharp and rather bland.
Royal Bain de Caron (Royal Bain de Champagne)
It used to be a unique floral fragrance that opened up on an incredibly effervescent note reminiscent of Napoleon’s favorite beverage. Over time, it dries down to a plush, velvety base of incense, amber and vanilla. Today, the balance is towards the floral-powdery facet, which changes the character. I would not say that it is a poor fragrance, but one can find better alternatives on the market–Guerlain Après l’Ondée, Kenzo Flower, or if you really want the effervescence of champagne, Yves Saint Laurent Champagne/ Yvresse.
It is telling that every time I try to write “Tabac Blond,” I invariably end up with “Tabac Bland.” Indeed, the new version is just that, a bland carnation. The original Tabac Blond has a dark smoky leather note that in combination with rich tobacco and sandalwood create a haunting, smoldering effect. None of those elements are present in what passes for Tabac Blond today. There is a hint of clove and sheer moss, a whisper of something green, but overall, Tabac Blond in its current form is not even worth smelling. Might as well try some other leathers on the market, like Robert Piguet Bandit or Chanel Cuir de Russie.
Those who love tuberose dominated fragrances will find Caron’s version very appealing. Like Fracas, it pairs tuberose with peach, but unlike the Robert Piguet classic, it is more polished and understated. Not a perfume masterpiece, but a very nicely done white floral composition. My bottle from 2005 and the current boutique tester are very similar.
Yatagan
Overall, I find that most Caron masculines have fared much better post-reformulation than the feminine fragrances. Yatagan is a super example of a rich, classical woody oriental, where a bitter absinthe note bridges a marvelous green accord of basil and pine needles with the smoldering base of patchouli and animalic notes. One of the most seductive masculine fragrances.
60 Comments
Olfactoria: Wonderful! Thank you!
I am glad Nuit de Noel, Parfum Sacré and Bellodgia, my favorites are still good despite slight changes. I need to try Farnesiana soon. March 31, 2011 at 3:54am
ines: I haven’t tried that many Carons, I see now. 🙂
But Tubereuse is the one I’ll start with, I adore that note. March 31, 2011 at 4:09am
Carla: I have Nuit de Noel EdT and I like it very much. Since I never settled on a winter incense to buy, it kind of stands in for one for now. My husband’s favorite Caron was Yatagan when we tried a few a while back. March 31, 2011 at 9:35am
karin: Oh, so glad you did this, Victoria. Thank you! After reading Perfumes: The Guide, I had no desire to try Caron. It bothers me to no end when houses reformulate and reformulate. Why beat a dead horse, or as they say, try to squeeze blood out of a turnip? Just let the poor thing die an honorable death with its reputation intact! Why instead not embrace the present by creating new “classic” scents that have relevance today rather than try and hold onto a past that is obviously a shadow of its former self? Sad. Sad and lazy, IMO. And to the customer who wants to continue to wear the same signature scent for decades – it can’t happen. Roll with the changes, baby! On that note, though, I really want to try both Aimez Moi and Pour Un Homme. 😉 March 31, 2011 at 11:00am
sweetlife: V, as I said to Marina awhile back, sometimes I wonder about the terms of Caron’s contract with their new owners. It almost seems as if the company that bought them is starving them to death deliberately, like a new landlord who makes life difficult for their rent-controlled tenants. March 31, 2011 at 11:41am
sweetlife: Thank you so much for all these capsule reviews! It makes the house so legible, and now I suddenly feel like I have new things to try (and buy, unfortunately). I love the grandeur of the old Carons and feel so lucky to have a bit of the vintage stuff. (If you ever need some Poivre, let me know… ;)) March 31, 2011 at 11:44am
Dionne: The only Caron I’ve tried thus far is Parfum Sacré, but I absolutely adore it. The TBS pile just got bigger: Nuit de Noel, Farnesiana and Aimez Moi join the queue (I’d grumble that it’s expensive to read your blog, but I can’t – I’m enjoying myself too much). March 31, 2011 at 12:14pm
sweetlife: Wow. Well I’m glad to know they value the house–maybe there’s hope. But in a way it’s worse to think they are just incompetent. Totally agree with you on delving into the history. I think Caron has a chance to have the kind of brand prestige that other houses would kill for if only they would stop trying to please everyone and just treasure what they do have. March 31, 2011 at 12:48pm
Maria: Thank you for the effort. Really valuable info. I don’t know about the others, but I tried the other day Narcisse Noir parfum extrait and it is wonderful. March 31, 2011 at 9:01am
karin: And creating “fresh laundry” scents…ugh! March 31, 2011 at 1:30pm
Gitcheegumee: Your description of Parfum Sacre sounds like a scent I could really go for.
Also, the Narcisse Noir.
I was delighted that I followed through on your recommendation of Bellodgia.(I must confess that I have avoided ALL Caron fragrances for many years, as a relative of mine wore Nuit de Noel-and not being a favorite relative, I avoided any association with Caron.Unwarranted guilt by asociation,no doubt.)
My loss,for certain. March 31, 2011 at 2:03pm
Victoria: You are welcome!
The ones that suffered the most are Tabac Blond and Poivre. March 31, 2011 at 10:16am
Victoria: Caron Tubereuse is a wonderful tuberose. Very joyful, sunny fragrance for me. March 31, 2011 at 10:16am
Victoria: I am glad that it is helpful! I was also pleasantly surprised with Narcisse Noir parfum. It is very good! March 31, 2011 at 10:17am
Victoria: Nuit de Noel is a perfect incense for those who do not want overly strong liturgical associations. Very elegant too.
I love Yatagan, which must be one of my favorite masculine Carons after Pour Un Homme. March 31, 2011 at 10:18am
Victoria: Karin, I hear you, and I just love how you put it. I also have no desire to smell a poor version of a formerly great classic. That just makes me sad. And it is a lazy approach, as you say. Plus, as difficult as reformulations are, in case of some of these fragrances, it is a lack of care. I am also amazed how poor the current Caron packaging is. As I was trying to spray perfumes on blotters, the lids and the little metal sprayers kept falling apart. Granted, even Guerlain packaging has been degrading over time, but to see these beautiful perfumes in such cheap packaging really made me sad.
Aimez Moi and Pour Un Homme are my current Caron favorites! March 31, 2011 at 11:07am
Marina: Glad to see that most of my favorites fared well! March 31, 2011 at 11:54am
Victoria: I am not sure that they are exactly trying to do this, because I understand that Ales group actually does think of Caron as their prized acquisition. Yet, I just feel that everything about the marketing of this brand is misguided today. The latest Yuzu Man, or something like that. Again, what does Yuzu have to do with anything Caron? Why not delve into the history of brand as Chanel does so well and present something coherent, meaningful and devoid of cheap marketing games? March 31, 2011 at 12:43pm
Victoria: Thank you, A! I have a full bottle of it someplace. Otherwise, I just keep small decants of vintages on hand.
I am missing only a couple in these reviews (Infini, Lady Caron, etc. — not my favorites though,) so I will be updating this post as I finish testing everything. March 31, 2011 at 12:46pm
Victoria: Me too, although I am crushed by the awful state of Tabac Blond. Even a couple of years ago, it was better. March 31, 2011 at 12:46pm
Victoria: Well, if you ever need a justification for needing a new perfume, come to me. 🙂
Aimez Moi took me by complete surprise. I used to wear it, but then I sort of forgot about it. Revisiting made me realize what a little gem it is, a spicy dark violet-jasmine. March 31, 2011 at 12:48pm
Victoria: Oh, and Parfum Sacré! March 31, 2011 at 12:49pm
Victoria: Alyssa, exactly! Other brands would kill to have this kind of history, cache and collection. Mind boggles at the lack of anything interesting happening with Caron today. Perhaps, it is also a reflection on the trends in the fragrance industry overall–forgetting the past and only thinking one quarter ahead. March 31, 2011 at 12:51pm
Victoria: Precisely! March 31, 2011 at 1:33pm
Erin T: Why is it that the masculines have fared so much better? To paraphrase LT, is it sense or neglect? I just don’t get it. Blasphemous me, I call them the Caron Holy Trinity and I’d still rather wear any of the three than just about any other PH fragrance out there and the great majority of recent feminine fragrances. March 31, 2011 at 6:12pm
Victoria: I can completely understand this. A negative association with a scent is such a poignant one. There are certain fragrances I would never be able to wear for this reason.
Parfum Sacre is among my favorites, and among current Carons, it is definitely one of the best. I used to think of Or et Noir as a darker cousin of Parfum Sacre, but today it is too sharp for my tastes. So, Parfum Sacre and Parfum Sacre Intense climbed higher on my favorites list. 🙂 March 31, 2011 at 2:24pm
Lynn Morgan: I weep that Noctures de Caron is not what it once was! It used to be so lovely, sophisticated and elegant, and really made me think of Chopin. Now it sounds like cheap drug store pong, and not in a good way. March 31, 2011 at 6:38pm
axum: I just received a sample of Pour Une Femme and was so disappointed. Yes, the sandalwood is too loud, and overall it just smells like a mess. Like a box of samples when some of them have leaked. Yet I can tell that the notes, in different proportions, could be truly dramatic…that is what is most frustrating. March 31, 2011 at 3:42pm
Lavanya: I really like Aimez Moi- it changes its character with seasons just enough to allow me to wear it in summer as well as winter (and is so affordable too!). I am glad the reformulations aren’t too different..
BUT, I am sooo sad about poivre..:((..I tried a sample maybe 4/5 years ago and subsequently bought a tiny decant from Patty- it is one of my favorite perfumes ever and I was hoping to be be able to spring for a bottle sometime. How old is the reformulated version that you reviewed??
Is the old version still available anywhere? March 31, 2011 at 3:43pm
Victoria: It used to be so good, a dark, sumptuous fruity chypre. Today, I find it simply unwearable. That screechy sandalwood note is like nails on chalkboard for me. March 31, 2011 at 4:29pm
Victoria: I tried the new version over the course of this month, so I gather that they are the most recent available. I am not sure about the old version of Poivre. If it is available anywhere, then it must be Ebay.
If you like peppery notes, then what about Parfum Sacre, Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie, Hermes Poivre Samarcande, Le Labo Poivre 23 or Lorenzo Villoresi Pipper Nigrum? March 31, 2011 at 4:33pm
gautami: This means I should think twice, thrice before spraying precious Tabac Blond and my Poivre. March 31, 2011 at 8:49pm
Lavanya: Thanks for the rec, V..I think what I loved about Poivre was the pepperry-cloviness playing with the spicy rose (It reminded me of an Indian drink- I don’t remember which though)..I have tried Parfum Sacre: for some reason, I find Parfum Sacre difficult to wear. On my skin there is something thin and ‘vanillia-like’ which I didn’t much care for. I should retry it at some point soon- because I love the idea of Parfum Sacre,..:)
Will try your other recommendations too.. March 31, 2011 at 4:50pm
Victoria: That's what I loved about Poivre as well.
You might also want to try Noir Epices by Frederic Malle, which is an excellent dry spicy fragrance. March 31, 2011 at 5:54pm
Victoria: Erin, maybe because these paarticular masculines are a bit less complicated to reformulate? Also, many Caron feminines used very expensive materials, which now are priced at levels few brands can afford. March 31, 2011 at 6:35pm
Victoria: It now smells distinctly of cheap plastic. I really find it disappointing. Your description of it, as it once were, is lovely! March 31, 2011 at 6:40pm
maria: Thanks for the great info I must try Aimez moi it sounds right up my alley. I tried Bellodgia and it was just like you described I wanted a stronger carnation and added spice but still very wearable. March 31, 2011 at 10:43pm
dee: Ah, I just very recently tried Yatagan for the first time, and it was a revelation—so beautiful! I’m glad to have my good taste confirmed.
; )
(LOL) April 1, 2011 at 12:49am
Austenfan: Great to read a line-up of a fragrance house I am not that familiar with. I have tried and liked Aimez-moi. I took one sniff once of Tabac Blond and did not like it at all. I am assuming that it was a recent bottle, as it was a shop tester. I adore Pour un Homme. ( have you ever tried their Plus belles Lavandes?). L’Anarchiste I didn’t really like or dislike. And I was intrigued by both Troisième Homme and Yatagan. I have somehow never felt tempted to try anymore of their feminine fragrances. But you have given me an incentive and a guideline to try the ones that ” are still worth it”. April 1, 2011 at 5:00am
Victoria: Yes, I ration mine too. 🙂 April 1, 2011 at 10:05am
Victoria: You are welcome! I liked the new Bellodgia just fine, but it really was better as a darker, spicier version. I would wear either though. April 1, 2011 at 10:07am
Victoria: You have a wonderful taste! I already knew this. 🙂
Yatagan is fantastic, I love its absinthe note paired with oakmoss. April 1, 2011 at 10:08am
Victoria: L'Anarchiste is neither here nor there for me, a decent, but not terribly memorable fragrance.
Caron feminine range is very interesting for its dark florals and woody orientals. I definitely recommend exploring it. April 1, 2011 at 10:11am
flacon007: Wonderful review. I don’t think somebody else has access to all the samples and can find all the right words to reflect all the fine nuances about the difference between older and newer versions.
Even if I have a different point of view at some fragrances I admire your constantly deepening understanding of fragrance materials. April 1, 2011 at 6:02pm
Victoria: Thank you very much for your kind words! I really appreciate your comment. I love the process of learning about perfumery, and the raw materials are so fascinating. April 1, 2011 at 8:24pm
Marlene: Thank you so very much for this posting. I am so reticent to try reformulated classics that I have not really paid any attention to these wonderful fragrances. This gives me a road map to use to start enjoying them. I think I’ll start with Farnesiana. I have a 30+ year old bottle of Nuit de Noel and you’d better believe I’m holding on to that one. April 2, 2011 at 11:34am
Gitcheegumee: What do you think about layering Bellodgia with Youth Dew or Tocade? April 2, 2011 at 3:54pm
tmp00: I’m glad some of them are still there, but Tabac Blond is killing me.. April 7, 2011 at 12:52am
Victoria: Tabac Blond is killing me too, very disappointing. April 7, 2011 at 7:27am
Julio Cezar do Amaral: I hope and pray that Caron brings back Muguet du Bonheur in its original formula. It makes me cry to think that they have disappointed and deceived so many elegant ladies all over the world to whom Muguet was not just a symbol of fidelity but also linked to women of impacting personality.
The new versions are just like pale imitations, with no impact whatsoever. Caron is a symbol of tradition and Caron customers deserve the very best.
We have been made orphans of our old friend, Muguet du Bonheur, which we shall miss forever. January 6, 2012 at 2:06am
Yulya: Wow, how did I manage to miss this article? Agree-agree-agree! January 17, 2012 at 6:14pm
roberta: Hi all!
I just found the POMERATE NOIR from Jo Malone and is VERY similar to Yatagan!!!!! December 19, 2012 at 12:19pm
roberta: I meant POMEGRANATE NOIR December 19, 2012 at 12:20pm
julio cezar do Amaral: Probably influenced by most female singers in Brazil I became a passionate consumer of Muguet du Bonheur. I find it sad that Caron has descontinued its original extrait and replaced it by a pale im itation that lacks the intensity and aura of the one we were used to.
I think perfumes have a lot to do with one´s personality, and though I respect the writer´s opinion, I insist that the original fragrances shoud still be available for those faithful Caron lovers.
Tradition seems to be becoming a word of the past. Caron fans have become orphans and that is sad. June 22, 2014 at 9:01am
Aurora: So much research in this article! I found what I was looking for, a review of Aimez-Moi which I recently purchased in a big bottle as it was a bargain and I have been enjoying it as my scent of the day: it is very tenacious and lasted all day, although the sillage is moderate. I detect a ‘pastis’ note before it settles as a violette and white flowers, so if I had acquired it sooner, I could have mentioned it in the comments of Elisa’s recent list of boozy perfume. February 20, 2015 at 5:12pm
Victoria: It would be perfect on that list, and yes, the pastis note is the best part. 🙂 February 21, 2015 at 9:02am
steve: Why did you not review Le Tres hommes? The original was the best, but I still think it’s great and have been using it for 30 years. July 21, 2015 at 5:55pm
Victoria: It’s included–Le 3ème Homme de Caron/Third Man/Troisème Homme. July 22, 2015 at 3:31am
Amy McLaughlin: Thank you for this wonderful and very comprehensive post. In the middle of this cold winter night, I found myself missing both Bellodgia and Fleurs de Rocaille; I wore both and wish they were still to be had in the vintage formulations. February 17, 2021 at 12:55am
Carol: I own the older versions of Bellodgia, Muguet du Bonheur, Nocturnes, Fleur de Rocaille and my precious Tabac Blond.
The words about the originals is spot on and wonderful. They are delicious to wear. I feel like I am wearing history, never to be again. January 25, 2022 at 10:04pm