When I first smelled Ann Gérard Perle de Mousse last year on a cold winter day, this delicate perfume didn’t seem quite right. Its sun-dappled demeanor needed a white seersucker dress, a picnic basket, and a mild spring breeze. In other words, it felt like a perfect warm weather fragrance that could be both casual and elegant, a rare combination.
Perle de Mousse was created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour for the jeweler Ann Gérard, whose warm Cuir de Nacre would tide me over while I waited for spring to come. (Ciel d’
Perle de Mousse is a word play on moss, mousse in French, and an allusion to the mossy notes of the composition. It’s an appropriate name for this luminous perfume, but the main theme here is flowers–the white of gardenia, the green of lilies, and the yellow of tuberose. ‘Delicate’ is rarely applicable to while floral bouquets, but Perle de Mousse is just that–graceful, tender and gauzy.
At first, the delicate floral is not at all what you notice. Perle de Mousse opens up on a starchy-metallic note (aldehydes) fused with something green and earthy (galbanum). This is a classical prelude to many excellent green fragrances like Chanel No 19 or Balmain Ivoire, but in the case of Perle de Mousse, it’s lighter and more transparent. Soon the cold fizz of aldehydes subsides, the intense green pales to soft pistachio, and you’re left with layers of white petals flecked with moss.
The mossy notes are crisp and dry, and they tone down the sweetness of tuberose and jasmine. Despite its understated personality, it’s not at all a fleeting perfume. Perle de Mousse has a good sillage and a noticeable presence, even if it doesn’t shout. It reminds me of Frederic Malle Lys Méditerranée, another perfume that bottles the essence of a warm day when the sun caresses your face ever so gently.
Ann Gérard Perle de Mousse Eau de Parfum includes notes of aldehydes, pink pepper, bergamot, green mandarin, galbanum resin, ivy, lily of the valley, hawthorn, Bulgarian rose, clove, jasmine, gardenia, lentiscus absolute, ambergris, musk, and vanilla.
Painting: Claude Monet (1840–1926), Springtime, Walters Art Museum, via wiki-images, some rights reserved.
51 Comments
george: Just discovered where I can try this range in London (along with the olfactive studios range) so planning a trip to Bloom perfumery soon, as it seems like the uk’s sole stockist. However, before I visit, I will use your next ‘recommend me a perfume post’ to ask what are the must-try perfumes from the ranges that they stock (as they stock a number of ranges upon which they seem to have a uk exclusive). So far lumiere blanche and cuir de nacre are likely to be the first testers I visit. Both are something new for me to look forward to smelling. March 25, 2013 at 8:38am
Jenna: The one in Spitalfields? I haven’t been yet. I hear that they carry Parfumerie Generale and many other interesting brands. March 25, 2013 at 10:02am
george: Yes, they carry parfumerie generale (which is also at Les Senteurs in Belgravia and Marble Arch), but the brands that I think are u.k. exclusive are vero.profumo, magnetic scent, phaedon, olfactive studios and Jardins d’ecrivan, testa maura and Frapin. I don’t know much about these brands, but with Victoria’s reviews of Cuir de nacre, perle de mousse and lumber blanche, I now know to make the journey! Otherwise I would just be faced with a wall full of bottle without a clue what to home in on. March 25, 2013 at 11:05am
george: O my autocorrect. *lumiere blanche. March 25, 2013 at 11:06am
minette: i kinda liked lumber blanche! sounds like something a lumberjack with panache might wear… 😉 March 25, 2013 at 2:32pm
sara: lol! there must be a perfume named like this. March 25, 2013 at 4:24pm
Zazie: George, may I suggest to check out two fragrances from frapin, while you’re there?
The delicious and enveloping caravelle epicée (maybe more suited to fall and winter), and Speakeasy.
You can find reviews of the latter online. The former is a very interesting and enjoyable spicy fragrance…a treat. March 25, 2013 at 11:32am
george: O zazie, you star! A musc ravageur/noir epices cross and a mojito like fragrance (according to reviews) are both RIGHT up my street. THANK YOU! March 25, 2013 at 11:46am
Christy C: Vero Profumo perfumes are absolutely wonderful! Rubj edp and Mito are in my top 5 favorite perfumes. I’ve got a decant of Kiki on the way; I bet it will join my list of favorites very soon. March 27, 2013 at 7:36pm
Victoria: I also love Vero Profumo, especially Rubj and Mito, but Onda is worth sampling as well. It’s one of the most unusual fragrances I’ve tried. March 28, 2013 at 5:49am
Christy C: Not to worry–Onda is definitely on my list to try! March 30, 2013 at 10:22pm
Victoria: George, definitely do post your question! And I would love to hear more about Bloom when you visit. It’s always good to know about another interesting perfume store. March 25, 2013 at 12:42pm
Annikky: Hi, George!
I believe they also carry Vero Profumo? If you haven’t tried the line yet, it is definitely worth experiencing. March 25, 2013 at 1:15pm
Elena: Ooh, I’ve got to try this. I love no. 19 with all my heart, and have wished for a bottle of Lys Méditerranée for a while. I would be awfully happy if this at half the price could take its place on my wish list! I’m about to choose my next FB, and Jour d’Hermes, Un Matin d’Orage and SL Fleurs d’Oranger are in the running. I wish I could afford them all! March 25, 2013 at 9:41am
Victoria: All of these fragrances have a similar gauzy character, except for Fleur d’Oranger, so Perle de Mousse seems like a good contender for you. But I agree, it’s a tad more expensive than I personally would have liked. I have a discovery set so far. March 25, 2013 at 12:44pm
Jenna: I used to dislike green notes but I noticed now I wear more greens like Balenciaga Paris and Prada Infusion de Vetiver. March 25, 2013 at 9:57am
Victoria: Green notes can be difficult for many people, which is why they are not that popular. Your selection is nice and spring-like. March 25, 2013 at 12:45pm
Marieke: I haven’t tried Perle de Mousse yet, but I love your choice of image. Together with your words, I can almost smell the perfume in my head. 🙂 March 25, 2013 at 10:27am
rosarita: My thoughts exactly 🙂 And it smells lovely! March 25, 2013 at 10:36am
Rachel: I also love the painting V selected! She has a good eye for these things. March 25, 2013 at 12:24pm
Victoria: Thank you, both! March 25, 2013 at 12:46pm
Victoria: 🙂 I came upon this painting in an album a couple of weeks ago, and it just clicked! March 25, 2013 at 12:46pm
Beth: Oh, how I am starting to dream of Spring/Warm scents. The snow is still falling, the sky is still grey, so your post of seersucker dresses and picnic baskets is a welcome respite. Even if it seems that winter will NEVER EVER END.
I definitely have given my deep, dark, incense, spicy scents a workout and am starting to long for heat and sheer and pretty. March 25, 2013 at 12:17pm
Victoria: Our winter and spring seem to be playing a tug of war–one day we have one, next we have another. Yesterday was winter with lots of snow, and today is spring with some sunshine.
I can never resist a good incense, but like you, I’m craving something lighter and more uplifting. March 25, 2013 at 12:47pm
Rachel: Our weather is depressing today and reading this post makes me long for picnics and sleeveless dresses.
How well does Perle de Mousse last on you? My problem with Cuir de Nacre was that I was anosmic to something in it. March 25, 2013 at 12:23pm
Victoria: Cuir de Nacre lasted ok on me, but I’m having better luck with Perle de Mousse. It’s a lighter fragrance, but it has more projection and more presence on me. March 25, 2013 at 12:49pm
Elizabeth: What a coincidence! I am wearing Perle de Mousse today! It’s one of my favorite new scent discoveries this year. I love a good green floral chypre, especially in the spring. It might be on the short list for my wedding day perfume. I have already found my dress! It’s a champagne tulle ball gown with lace cap sleeves. Google Allure Bridals 9022 for a picture. 🙂 March 25, 2013 at 1:08pm
Victoria: What a gorgeous dress! I love the lace covered bodice and the delicate tulle skirt. You will look like a princess in it!
And I agree with you, a delicate, effervescent scent would be a perfect fit. March 25, 2013 at 3:27pm
FearsMice: Elizabeth, that’s a lovely dress! March 27, 2013 at 6:43am
Annikky: This sounds absolutely lovely, thank you for the review! There are few notes I like more than tuberose, gardenia (my current obsession) and well-executed moss. The main contenders are iris and leather, which of course were the stars of Cuir de Nacre – the only one from the line I have tried so far. Must remedy that situation. March 25, 2013 at 1:22pm
Victoria: All three are well-crafted, interesting blends, but Cuir de Nacre and Perle de Mousse are my favorites. They also feel elegant without being too high-maintenance, and I like that very much. March 25, 2013 at 3:47pm
iodine: What a coincidence- part 2! I wore a drop of Perle de Mousse last night (and I’m wearing a drop of Ciel d’Opale right now)! Yesterday I visited Esxence and had the chance to meet Ann Gerard in person- an elegant and kind lady that made me sniff the fragrances and finally gave me the sample of all three!
I can’t say much about the fragrance, of course, so I’ll test it more properly and will come back to read your beautiful-as-ever review! March 25, 2013 at 2:09pm
Victoria: What a great experience it must have been! I have never visited Esxence, but I hear that this year it has been full of surprises.
Enjoy your perfumes! March 25, 2013 at 3:42pm
sara: i liked perle de mousse too, but surprisly my favorite turned out to be ciel d’opale. it smelled of honeysuckle to me and i love it. makes me think of summer. cuir de nacre was good, too timid maybe. March 25, 2013 at 4:27pm
Victoria: At first, I also wanted more projection out of Cuir de Nacre, but then I ended up liking its second skin, intimate effect. I can still smell it, but it’s true, it’s a soft spoken perfume. March 26, 2013 at 8:27am
Liz: I’ve been eyeing these on Luckyscent and I finally ordered samples last week. Can’t wait to receive them! March 25, 2013 at 6:10pm
Victoria: Hope that you enjoy them, Liz! March 26, 2013 at 8:28am
annemariec: This is a bit pricey for me but as I was reading your review, Jour d’Hermes came to mind, and that I do have (in sample form). Other casual-but-elegant perfumes: No 5 EP, Diorella, Eau Suave (Parfums d’Empire) and Le Temps d’une Fete. Maybe even NR for Her? Well, that one tips maybe more on the casual side. March 25, 2013 at 6:40pm
Victoria: All of those would be great candidates for the casual-but-elegant perfumes, and I would happily include Narciso Rodriguez for Her too. It’s definitely in that category for me. March 26, 2013 at 8:32am
Andrea: V, is there much clove in this perfume? It is a tough note for me. If it isn’t very spicy or clove-“ish”, I may need a decant to sample! I smelled Jour d’Hermes in a magazine and loved it. More “surprise” surgery has kept me home so I have yet to try it in person… Looks like I’ll be wearing an “old” frag for Easter! March 25, 2013 at 6:52pm
Victoria: Maybe it’s there, but it didn’t jump out at me. Clove (and most clove-like notes) are a restricted material today, so you won’t find many perfumes where it has a big presence.
Wishing you well! Hope that you have some perfumes and other favorite things to give you comfort. March 26, 2013 at 8:34am
Gretchen: This was one of my splurges last fall and while I didn’t wear it in the winter, I’ve worn it quite a bit in hopes of coaxing spring to arrive. I adore it. To the point of obsessively sniffing myself and rolling my eyes in glee. I love Une Matin d’Orage for spring, and Debut, but Perle de Mousse has won my heart. That said, I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of an EDP bottle of that green Scherrer juice you wooed me with, and so the Perle de Mousse will get a bit of a break!! March 25, 2013 at 8:11pm
Victoria: It seems like we have some favorites in common, because I also love Un Matin d’Orage and Debut. I keep my fingers crossed that you will love Scherrer. Do give it some time, because the top notes don’t reveal its full beauty. It’s one of those perfumes that might need some patience. March 26, 2013 at 8:36am
Maria: I wait for long a review from you of this perfume 🙂 From the 3 Ann Gerard perfumes that hit the point from me. I just don’t know why I’m so much in love with it. It is a chypre so I shouldn’t be crazy about it but probably since it is made with other things which just give the feeling of a chypre doesn’t give me that burning feeling. I don’t feel the lily so much which my husband did, which usually I can’t take. I have a memory of Diorissimo for a short time, I rather feel the lily of the valley, but that evolves in something more opulent, a bit gourmand and with the mousse effect, which is just breathtaking. It is one of those mistery perfumes, made of things I wouldn’t like but the whole thing is a such a beauty. I try it and try it hoping I will avoid buying it, I bought so many perfumes which ended up unused. But I finished my 3rd sample and probably I will. Waiting the spring doesn’t make any better, it’s just perfect. While for Apres l’Ondee I still have to wait few weeks to be perfect for wearing. March 26, 2013 at 9:14am
Victoria: I agree with you, it’s so much more than the sum of its parts and a good illustration that it’s best to smell for the whole, not for the individual notes. I bet that it also smells terrific on you. 🙂 March 26, 2013 at 10:14am
Austenfan: This sounds very gorgeous. I have been looking at the sample set of the three Gerard perfumes. It seems a good buy. It will have to wait for a bit though. Mind you spring seems to be waiting for a bit as well! March 26, 2013 at 5:02pm
Victoria: Yes, spring has been tardy, but today is sunny, so I have hopes that we will have nice weather for the Easter. March 27, 2013 at 8:22am
Austenfan: I think it will be sunny, quite cold though. It will be for the first time in years that Easter will be colder than Christmas. March 27, 2013 at 8:35am
Victoria: Apparently, in NYC it’s the coldest spring since the 1960s! March 28, 2013 at 5:50am
Ann @ Indigo Perfumery: Victoria-
I am so glad I read your review first!
Perle smelled nice enough in the sample, so I went ahead and put it on. It, again, was pleasant enough in the first ten minutes, but seemed to lack character. However, after the first half hour (7 hours ago), Perle really came into its beautiful self.
It is a lovely scent that makes you feel special! April 1, 2013 at 3:26pm
Domestic Goblin: Just tried a sample vial of Perle de Mousse and its beautiful! Putting this onto my wishlist! April 3, 2013 at 3:19pm