Taking Alaïa note by note is complicated, but since Azzedine Alaïa became famous for his unusually structured knitted dresses, perhaps, this is only to be expected. While most fashion designers don’t convey much of their aesthetic in fragrance lines they launch (see Miu Miu), Alaïa is an exception. Fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa wanted to incorporate recollections from his Tunisian childhood but avoid any trite “oriental” references; the idea instead is to convey couture with a personal touch. For me it works.
Alaïa is a transparent modern floral, with a velvety woody-musky drydown. Alaïa doesn’t shock, but it is different from the legions of fruity bonanzas and cotton candy laced new releases: its combination of abstract flowers and mineral, wet chalk nuances is surprising; its manner of rendering animalic notes is novel, and its gauzy but enveloping sillage is alluring. It’s a promising debut.
Alaïa draws on the usual suspects of contemporary perfumery, from pink pepper to peony, but the end result is anything but predictable. The perfume starts with an abstract bright floral medley, although on my skin dewy jasmine and other white blossoms with a hint of sweet lemon peel dominate. An unsweetened crisp fruity note lingers too, but soon petals settle into the mineral accord that forms the core of the composition, and the contrast between wet chalk and creamy flowers is appealing.
I smelled Alaïa before I had read any press releases, so I was surprised to find that the mineral, chalky effect was deliberate. The designer asked for an impression of water evaporating from sunbaked stones, something that his mother used to do to cool the courtyard on hot Tunisian afternoons. It’s not a fanciful marketing story, then. The mineral effect is subtle, but it’s there, and it keeps white flowers from becoming sweet and syrupy. Moreover, it’s an elegant bridge to the woods and musk in the drydown.
Created by perfumer Marie Salamagne (my recent favorite Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom was also hers), Alaïa then takes a turn into the animalic drydown. If your idea of animalic is Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï Khan, Robert Piguet Bandit or even Guerlain Shalimar, Alaïa won’t seem like much of an animal; a fluffy kitten at most, but definitely not a panther. But under the transparent, gauzy layers of Alaïa, there is a refined accord that reminds me of soft leather, with just a subtle hint of animalic tanginess. Like flowers, the woods also have an abstract quality, alternating between creamy and dry.
Besides its technical aspects, all very clever, I like Alaïa for its second skin character. It clings to you, much like an Alaïa dress, and it lingers in a sheer but enveloping sillage–the lasting power is excellent. It feels sophisticated, suave but also unexpectedly cozy. To repeat my refrain about Miu Miu, pleasing doesn’t have to be boring, and Alaïa is a good illustration.
I recommend trying it if you like fragrances like Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez, Chanel Beige (although it’s much more floral than Alaïa), Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum, or Hermès Cuir d’Ange (stronger on leather, but sheer and weightless).
Alaïa Paris by Azzedine Alaïa includes notes of pink pepper, freesia, peony, animalic notes and musk. It is available in 30ml, 50ml and 100ml bottles, Eau de Parfum.
84 Comments
Phyllis Iervello: What a coincidence that you are reviewing Alaia today. I own a full bottle and it’s my SOTD. I like this one very much as it is not like a run of the mill fruity, floral department store fragrance. It is sexy and yet still appropriate to wear to the office (at low spritzes). I think it will be one of the bottles I pick up a lot on work days. September 30, 2015 at 10:53am
Victoria: I also reach for it when I don’t know what to put on, but it instantly makes me feel more elegant and put together. I fully expected another nothingness like Miu Miu, so I was pleasantly surprised and then fell in love. 2015 has so far been a good year for new launches. September 30, 2015 at 11:52am
Phyllis Iervello: I agree Victoria. I really enjoy reading your reviews and blogs and look forward to them.
Thanks! September 30, 2015 at 12:45pm
Victoria: Thank you for such a nice comment, Phyllis. 🙂 October 1, 2015 at 4:44am
Trudy: I have been looking for something deeper, something different, than the soft white floral fragrances that I usually gravitate toward. This one sounds intriguing. I’ve never worn an Alaia dress but I’ve always admired his designs that I’ve seen in fashion magazines. Sexy and sophisticated for sure, but romantic and artistic as well. I liked Narcisso (white cube bottle) enough to purchase a small bottle and wear it often. I also love Beige (understandably more floral) so I will be searching this one out. Thank you Victoria for the wonderful review. I can’t wait to try Alaia. September 30, 2015 at 11:35am
Victoria: I recommend trying it on the skin, because it’s one of those skin-loving perfumes. The drydown is long and lingering, so it’s not a typical front loaded perfume, all top note and nothing else. It doesn’t smell exactly like Narciso, but their second skin like character and the emphasis on woods and musk over florals and fruity notes is similar.
I have one Alaia dress that was once my mother’s, and while it’s one of the simpler designs, the craftsmanship is impressive. It really feels like it’s lifting you up, but it’s light and comfortable. September 30, 2015 at 11:51am
SophieC: Wow lucky you, I would love to try an Alaia dress. September 30, 2015 at 12:14pm
Victoria: It’s a relatively simple dress, especially as far as Alaia is concerned. It’s just a knee length t-shirt like dress (it hugs the body, in Alaia’s style). But the fun part is that it’s completely reversible, and the pattern is similar to that used on the bottle. This dress must at least 15 years old at this point. September 30, 2015 at 12:21pm
irem: I have tried Alaia the day it came out, dragged my two little boys to Saks (what an ordeal) just to sample the new fragrance. I was utterly disappointed, though, because I could not smell anything! I generously sprayed my arm, buried in my nose, and smelled almost nothing. I would not think I am anosmic to most musks, but maybe I am. I also took a few samples and some sprayed fragrance cards home. I remember our study smelling wonderful at some point, maybe it was Alaia after all (I had put the scent cards in the recycling bin there). I will give it one more try after your review. September 30, 2015 at 11:49am
Victoria: It has not only musk but also dry woody notes that are notoriously difficult for some people. I must be sensitive to them, because I need only one spray of Alaia to smell it the whole day. So, your comment is a good reminder that it’s always important to try on your skin. September 30, 2015 at 11:56am
spe: Interesting comments about anosmia.
I never could smell Narciso Rodriguez “musk oil.”
Bvlgari Jasmine Nuit is very weak to me as well. From others’ descriptions, I’m sure that I’m unable to smell that fragrance in its entirety October 1, 2015 at 10:15am
Victoria: I can’t smell a couple of types of musk, for instance. Anosmia is common and normal when it comes to aromatics with large weight molecules. This would be musk, some types of woody materials (synthetics) and ambers. Usually such materials are used as a cocktail, but if one dominates and you can’t smell it, then, yes, the experience of a perfume will be very different. For instance, I can’t smell half of Frederic Malle’s Dries Van Noten perfume. October 1, 2015 at 10:55am
Aisha: Oo! That bottle!!!
I really like Bottega Veneta, but it turns a little too powdery on me. 🙁 Any chance this would do the same? It sounds like a beautiful fragrance. September 30, 2015 at 12:00pm
Victoria: It’s not exactly like Bottega Veneta, and on me, Alaia isn’t powdery at all. The bottle is even more beautiful than in the photos. September 30, 2015 at 12:08pm
Elisa: Ooh, excited about this one! Do you know if it’s going to be available at Nordstrom, etc? September 30, 2015 at 12:00pm
Victoria: It should be, but I’m not sure when. I spotted it at our local perfumery/cosmetics store a couple of weeks ago, and they must be promoting it now, because every time I buy skincare or even cotton wipes, a sample is stuffed into my bag. I’m not complaining. September 30, 2015 at 12:09pm
Nikki: Such a lovely review again, V! Thank you. I do enjoy the idea of having one of the sexiest designer’s perfume. Alaia is just amazing. I bet you look great in your mother’s dress!
I do wonder, however, whether the perfume will hold up in a desert climate. Fluffy kittens get eaten by mountain lions here…
Right now it all smells like Creosote/Chaparral bushes everywhere. I have used Une Fleur de Cassie here and it fits perfectly as do incense perfumes like Avignon. September 30, 2015 at 12:05pm
Victoria: Hmm, that is a good question. Because it’s so rich in dry woods, my sense is that it will hold up well. Usually, perfumes last ok in dry dessert climate and don’t linger well in humidity. September 30, 2015 at 12:19pm
SophieC: Thank you for the lovely review. I briefly sprayed Alaia recently and am not sure I noticed a lot of scent thereafter, but I was rushing around and not really focussing on it. Given the perfumes you say it is like and how you describe it I will definitely try it again. September 30, 2015 at 12:15pm
Victoria: I’m sorry I missed your comment earlier. Anyway, I can’t say that Alaia was an instant love for me, and it was only after a few tries that I grew to like it so much. But with each time I noticed something new, and it kept my interest, so I recommend revisiting it. Of course, you may still not care for it, but that’s par for the course with perfume. 🙂 October 1, 2015 at 2:34pm
Cornelia Blimber: I had a conversation with Tara C. about freesia..well, Tara, maybe Alaia is the one for us freesia-lovers! September 30, 2015 at 12:19pm
Victoria: To be honest, I don’t get that much freesia out of it, but perhaps you and Tara will. The floral impression is really abstract. Have you tried Antonia Flowers? That one has a gorgeous freesia accord. September 30, 2015 at 12:35pm
Tamsin: I tried this today and didn’t get much of a freesia note. I would also recommend diptyque ofresia for fellow freesia lovers! It’s simple but beautiful and versatile.
Ps. Thank you Victoria for such a lovely blog, and Bois De Jasmin community for such rich and interesting comments and recommendations January 3, 2017 at 2:03am
orsetta: my experience with Alaia was similar to earlier commenters – i couldn’t really smell much… i first tried it at an airport, careful not to try it out with something aggressive, fruity or sweet, so i put the new Knot Florale on the other arm (definitely not an overwhelming scent). Alaia just hummed quietly without much effect…
i must re-try though , as i like the man himself, the bottle and the courage to go against the mainstream releases 😀 September 30, 2015 at 12:28pm
Victoria: It reminds me of what happened when Narciso Rodriguez was first launched. Some people found it very strong, but others couldn’t smell anything at all. That’s the trouble with those musky and woody molecules, they’re often a culprit behind such partial anosmias.
What did you think of Knot Florale? October 1, 2015 at 4:43am
Aurora: Love the idea water on hot stones, this makes me think of Eau de Rochas one of my favorites – so distinctive – and make me love the mineral effect of Terre. So refreshing that the perfume truly reflect sentences in the press releases. Your review is so evocative. September 30, 2015 at 12:59pm
Aurora: And you make me discover an exciting new nez – off to google her. September 30, 2015 at 1:10pm
Victoria: She’s one of the younger perfumers in the industry, but I have a feeling that she will go far. October 1, 2015 at 4:45am
annemarie: Now you mention it I like both those perfumes but had not connected them (both are only recent discoveries for me). Yes, it must be the mineral effect. It sounds like a note I should explore. September 30, 2015 at 6:25pm
Victoria: Cartier Roadster has a similar mineral effect as Terre, with minty-peppery notes. October 1, 2015 at 4:54am
Victoria: Yes, the mineral effect in Terre d’Hermes is one of my favorite parts. In Alaia, it’s not as strong, because it’s overall very shimmering and radiant, but it’s there. I feel like it makes flowers less sweet. October 1, 2015 at 4:45am
maja: I have to admit that I was quite impressed by the design of the bottle and the ad in Italian Vogue in September but, although different from the current trend of fruitchoulis, it hasn’t impressed me much. Will have to give it another try.
I am eager to try Mimosa and Cardamom, though, it inspires me so much since my love for both is big. 🙂 September 30, 2015 at 1:42pm
Victoria: I like these kind of silk camisole like perfumes, I suppose. But I also can see how it may not everyone’s cup of tea, especially if one wants drama, smolder and obvious sensuality. I don’t get anything like this out of Alaia.
Mimosa and Cardamom is also very soft and delicate. It lasts really well on me, though, unlike most Jo Malones. October 1, 2015 at 4:47am
spe: This sounds delightful. I haven’t yet seen it here in Seattle. When you describe the mineral aspect, I think of Miss Rocaille from Caron. Thank you for the review! September 30, 2015 at 2:49pm
Victoria: Yes, I can see the parallels, although of course, Miss Rocaille is much more fruity and more floral. October 1, 2015 at 4:48am
Emma: Well that sounds interesting, I’m looking forward to trying it very soon. Perhaps it’s a little like Cartier La Panthère? September 30, 2015 at 2:59pm
Victoria: It’s much softer and more transparent in character than La Panthère. What I like is how effortlessly it wears, without being bland or one-note. October 1, 2015 at 4:49am
Emma: I tested it and it was instant love, I feel it’s very me. I bought the large bottle on Amazon it was almost half price (already!). I’m so excited, this is a very special fragrance, I love everything about it. I don’t see Alaïa being a commercial success and around more than 2 to 5 years, unfortunately, but this time I’m going to stock up. From Nombre Noir to Gobin Daude and Artisan Parfumeur original Oeillet Sauvage, I learned my lesson! October 7, 2015 at 3:15pm
Victoria: I’m happy to hear that you like it too! I also found Alaia unusual. Modern but distinctive and hiding a number of surprises. I will definitely get a bottle soon. October 8, 2015 at 9:38am
maggiecat: Now I want to try this…you’ve made it sound lovely and exactly the sort of scent I love! I hope it hits Nordstrom’s soon, although the SA’s there have gotten awfully pushy lately. September 30, 2015 at 5:36pm
hajusuuri: Ha! FYI, a little bird told me they’re doing a 10 points day in mid-October. I have not received official notification. September 30, 2015 at 8:14pm
Victoria: They must be getting into their Christmas season spirit in advance. 🙂 Or maybe, their Fragrance Foundation training has changed. In the past, Nordstrom had the best perfume counter staff. October 1, 2015 at 4:51am
The Blue Squid: Ah, it’s exciting that it’s good, unlike Miu Miu. I will be able to check this out at the duty free tomorrow, as I will be flying. Yay! Thankyou for the heads up, Victoria! September 30, 2015 at 6:11pm
Victoria: Miu Miu is competent and well-done, but it feels so unlike the brand aesthetic, and besides all that, it was bland. Alaia isn’t a huge statement making fragrance either, but I find it more memorable. October 1, 2015 at 4:53am
hajusuuri: This sounds fabulous. My to try list is getting longer. September 30, 2015 at 8:15pm
Victoria: Whenever I find interesting that’s so easily available (at our Sephora-type stores, for instance), it always makes me happy. Niche, of course, has plenty of good perfumes, but the prices are often unreasonable. October 1, 2015 at 4:56am
Solanace: Thank you for bringing Marie Salamagne to my attention. Mimosa and Cardamom sounded really nice, and so does Alaia. I’ll keep my eyes (and nose) open.
Yesterday I caught an afternoon rain while walking the dog. It had been a very hot day, so it was that kind of beginning rain when drops are huge and fall somewhat apart from each other, just before lightning strikes all over and the real, heavy tropical rain begins. Petrichor smell was awesome, huge, and I immediately thought about that rain essence from India which was the subject of a post here a while ago. Would you say the wet stone effect in Alaia compares to petrichor or the Indian rendition? (Ouch, the auto corrector really disapproves of the word petrichor!) October 1, 2015 at 4:46am
Victoria: Your description is so evocative! Although it rains a lot in Belgium, you don’t often get this kind of mineral, petrichor like smell.
In Alaia, no, the effect is much more subtle and not that earthy. Imagine chalk crayons soaking in jasmine tea, or a splash of light jasmine tea on warm stone. (I know some people get freesia and peony out of Alaia, but for some reason, I keep noticing more of very sheer jasmine in the hazy, abstract floral accord.)
But the Indian mitti attar is something spectacular. Have you smelled it already? October 1, 2015 at 5:00am
solanace: No, I haven’t, that’s another thing on my mental list of cool things to look after. 🙂 In the meanwhile, the image of jasmine tea splashed on warm stone is very appealing. I’ll be definetely smelling Alaia when I cross it. October 1, 2015 at 7:58am
Victoria: It might be a little difficult to wear it on its own as a perfume, but you can mix mitti attar with other attars. It smells wonderful with rose. If you truly want earthy, then a touch of vetiver will be even better. October 1, 2015 at 10:51am
solanace: I adore vétiver, and the idea of it grounded by a rain note sounds like perfection. October 3, 2015 at 1:47pm
Victoria: Vetiver attar is another wonderful thing, by the way, blending vetiver and sandalwood. October 4, 2015 at 2:35pm
Karen: And here I was, trying to curb my spending! Sounds very beautiful and interesting and look forward to giving it a try! October 1, 2015 at 6:44am
Victoria: At least, perfume can be sampled for free. Trying is even more interesting than buying to me, at any rate, because the promise of discovery is so appealing. 🙂 October 1, 2015 at 6:54am
Penny: I love the bottle. Did you say they will have 30 mls too? WIsh more companies did this. October 1, 2015 at 11:06am
Victoria: Yes, there is a 30ml size. I always welcome small bottles. They look pretty and there is a bigger chance I use them up before the perfume loses its freshness. October 1, 2015 at 2:29pm
Amer: I love the idea of mineral effects paired with floral notes. I think the contrast will work great. I loved the CdG 2011 (although not strictly mineral) and I often wished for a floral note in Terre d’Hermes.
Carrot seed also has a mineral/earthy character to my nose and I would like to see it paired with white florals like jasmine, orange blossom or tuberose.
Alaia sounds like something I’d appreciate. I will surely try it should I come across it October 1, 2015 at 4:09pm
Victoria: To me ambrette also has a cool effect, reminiscent of melting snow. I like how it was paired with rose in Chanel No 18. October 2, 2015 at 4:26am
Amer: Ambrette paired with incense (and a hint of oakmoss) is a great combination I’d like to see explored in a perfume. To me it smells of see breeze October 4, 2015 at 2:12pm
Victoria: I do too! It would great as both a new chypre or even dry woods. Or even in a floral context. October 4, 2015 at 2:51pm
Amer: Let’s develop our own sea-breezy floral! I’d nominate orange blossom as a candidate for the floral direction 🙂 October 5, 2015 at 3:37am
Victoria: I love it! 🙂 October 5, 2015 at 4:53am
Ingeborg: Victoria, I would like to know a bit more about the musk in this perfume. The wrong type of musk can totally ruin a perfume for me. I have so far not seen it here, so may have to buy a sample somewhere. I have always admired the Alaïa dresses, even if they are not for me. I am rather tired of skin scents, so this sounds like something I might like, plus I love freesia in perfume. October 2, 2015 at 12:53pm
Victoria: I’m not sure you’d like it then, because it is a skin scent. It has a good sillage, but it’s one of my floral musky “second skin” perfumes. October 2, 2015 at 2:55pm
Ingeborg: Well, I’d better get a sample then and try it a few times. I just saw the comments by customers in the German Douglas’ webshop, many different opinions. Thanks for your help. October 2, 2015 at 6:03pm
Victoria: I have a feeling, it’s a shapeshifter, so yes, definitely try it on your skin and give it a couple of samplings. October 4, 2015 at 2:26pm
Merlin: I’v only tried this once on skin so I definitely need to try it a few more times! However, what it most reminded me of was some Comme de Garcon effects. For instance, Stephen Jones, in it’s burnt asteroid aspect. I was expecting something quite ‘natural’ in Alaia – water-on- hot- stone but found it quite futuristic instead! The odd thing is that Stephen Jones is NOT that futuristic to me as it somehow reminds me of violet potpourri left in an old wardrobe (even more than burning asteroids 🙂 ) But I do associate Comme de Garcons with ‘futuristic’… October 5, 2015 at 5:28pm
Victoria: Your description is spot on, and yes, I see exactly what you mean. Which is why I kept coming up with a word abstract. It really is!
Stephen Jones isn’t that futuristic to me, although it might because I really expected something outrageous. October 6, 2015 at 10:37am
AnnieA: Stephen Jones smells like snuffed-out candle to me, which would fall under the Natural category… October 8, 2015 at 6:25pm
Victoria: There is that smoldering, smoky note in it. It’s not too strong, but I also notice something like that. October 9, 2015 at 11:46am
bregje: I finally had a chance to try this and i must say that on me the opening smelled very familiar.
I can’t quite pinpoint the scent but i’m thinking of sun,moon,stars or l’eau d’issey. December 7, 2015 at 4:18pm
Victoria: It’s musky rose on top. I really like the opening, but I don’t know if it reminds me of anything specific. December 8, 2015 at 10:57am
Julie: Hello Victoria,
I just noticed a gift set of this perfume online & priced rather low. I am shocked because it just launched, and it sounds great! Thank you for this lovely (as always) review Victoria. I adore Bottega Veneta. I sampled Narcisco but did not purchase a full bottle, also sprayed the inside of my handbag too, very pretty. 🙂 Merry Christmas you to all perfume lovers out there, enjoy! December 12, 2015 at 2:36pm
Victoria: Perhaps they’re trying to market it for the holidays? But it’s a very good perfume. Of course, blind purchases are always risky, so it’s better to sample first. December 13, 2015 at 9:45am
Julie: Thank you, Victoria. I wouldn’t blind buy it.
I purchased Serge Lutens Fille En Aiguilles recently & I’m looking forward to using it for Christmas and beyond. I noticed the low price and a pretty bottle by Alaia when I was browsing. My birthday is in February so, I may order a sample of it before then. 🙂 Have a great day! December 13, 2015 at 11:29am
Julie: I wanted to let you know I had a chance to try this recently…I purchased it and like it a lot. 🙂
Different too. Have been thinking about the warmer weather, and hoping to wear this scent a little more often. The bottle is stunning! Your reviews are so enjoyable to read, I am truly grateful for the work you put into them. Thank you, Victoria. March 8, 2016 at 10:15am
Victoria: Thank you for your updates on various perfumes you try. I enjoy reading these comments. March 9, 2016 at 1:35pm
Catherine: Just tried it, on me, I think it smells a lot like l’eau d’Issey by Issey Miyake. It smells very fresh . Are they very similar ? December 25, 2015 at 3:50am
Raquel: I have tested this perfume twice and I definitely love it! I would have probably not noticed this fragrance if not for your beautiful review. I haven’t seen any ads or advertising so I googled it and I like the black dress, perhaps I would have liked to see something conjuring the tunisian backyard in a mysterious dark interpretation, maybe my idea it’s too obvious or literal…I like the way this fragrance evolves on my skin and and I also love the flacon. Thank you. February 8, 2016 at 4:02pm
Victoria: I’m glad you found it interesting. I’ve been wearing it a lot, and I’m enjoying it more every time I revisit it. February 9, 2016 at 1:10pm
Hildegerd: I adore Paris Alaia, it is rather cold and intellectual on my skin, but I like the effect. I look forward to try it out in warmer weather, so summer can not come fast enough.
Anyway, almost used up a 50ml bottle since october, so I need a new one very soon. Should stock up just in case it dissapears. February 20, 2016 at 1:17pm
Victoria: I think it will be great in that context too. February 22, 2016 at 2:45pm
Lily: Tracked down a sample of this one, since I seem to be liking light florals over musk/woods. When I put it on, my nose thought it was Lanvin’s Rumeur (new edition, obviously), which I like as a LBD scent that will smell nice but probably not make anyone notice what I’m wearing. I re-read the review on that one, and saw the comparison to Narciso for Her in both. I haven’t done a side-by-side comparison to see if they are really that similar or if my nose just got the same impression.
I think on me Rumeur is better…there was a melon-ish quality creeping in on Alaia (the freesia? The peony? Unlisted vetiver in the base?) that was…not to my taste. Not sure why but something about that drift of notes (and it happens a lot for me) is stomach-turning. It’s not truly cloying or overly sweet, simply not pleasant to my nose.
If anyone wants a sample (8 ml spray) please reply here, I’ll get in touch. US please. 🙂 April 12, 2016 at 10:40am
MPFlorian: It’s so neat that you mentioned the melon smell. I noticed it as cucumber, but they are related. It’s something I really like about Alaïa, which is otherwise quite animalic. Anyways. Cheers! June 20, 2021 at 10:16am