I’ve been making lists of fall fragrances ever since the end of summer when the new launches started appearing. So, I decided to narrow down my selection to a few perfumes I enjoyed and wore. In this installment, I will talk about 5 such fragrances. They weren’t picked to be traditionally seasonal, and they range from citrus colognes to floral orientals. With the possible exception of Twilly, they’re for both men and women.
Twilly d’Hermès
Twilly d’Hermès is one of my favorite launches this year. The fragrance was inspired by Hermès’s narrow scarves, and if the house aimed for a blend as versatile as its famous accessory, then it more than succeeded. More than that, it also demonstrated that it’s possible to create a lighthearted, pleasing perfume that still smells clever, memorable and plush. The core of the fragrance is composed of ginger, tuberose and sandalwood, notes that together create a colorful, exuberant effect. The floral accord of Twilly is abstract and luminous, but it has a creamy sweetness that’s the trademark of white flowers like tuberose. Like most of Christine Nagel’s perfumes, it blossoms on skin and has a seductive, coquettish flair.
Atelier Cologne Café Tuberosa
The combination of dark, nutty coffee (an illusion carefully reconstructed through patchouli) and creamy tuberose makes for a memorable pairing. Café Tuberosa falls into a category of perfumes I label as “abstract gourmands,” fragrances that suggest a delicious impression without smelling obviously foody. You can read my full review here.
Gallivant Amsterdam
Gallivant perfumes pay homage to cities around the world, from Berlin to Istanbul, and their latest offering promises a souvenir from Amsterdam. My olfactory portrait of the city is not that pleasant, but I’m happy to go along with Gallivant and their pink pepper and saffron accented etude. The curious aspect of this transparent, bright fragrance is a sweet rose accord that gives it an impression of lipstick and face powder. Wait a bit longer, and the perfume becomes darker, muskier and decidedly less well-behaved.
L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Un Air de Bretagne
The marine vignette of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Un Air de Bretagne is a fragrance that bottles the memories of seaside vacations. The composition is a classical eau de cologne with citrus and orange blossom. The note of algae absolute redolent of driftwood, seaweed and wet sand is an addition that makes it wistful. Un Air de Bretagne evokes walks on the beach and days filled with sweet indolence–and it’s a perfect antidote to the grey fall days. But a note of warning is in order. Un Air de Bretagne is a marine perfume, a genre many find too sharp and assertive. I happen to like its brisk character, but if you don’t like salty, ozonic or other beach-redolent notes, try it on skin first.
Diptyque Vetyverio
The Eau de Parfum concentration is such a different version of vetiver than the original Eau de Toilette that it can be another fragrance. The Eau de Parfum is warm and velvety, with the sweetness of rose and the earthy darkness of patchouli playing up the woody nuances of vetiver. The delicious salty hint of the original remains, however, and the bolder, more saturated character of the EDP is a welcome change.
Have you smelled anything particularly interesting lately?
Photography by Bois de Jasmin
73 Comments
Cornelia Blimber: Pink pepper…saffron..sweet roses.. that’s Amsterdam? Hahaha…haha! LOL!
I discovered Eau de Velours (Bottega Veneta) and I like it very much. Reminds me of Cuir Améthyste. Bad reviews, I know, but I love it.
I gave up sniffing new perfumes (Eau de Velours was on my way)..too many launches, too many ”niche” perfumes. I stick to old favourites. But I will certainly find out Twilly, Tuberose lover as I am. November 6, 2017 at 7:34am
Victoria: I also would never associate Amsterdam with those specific notes, but the perfume is upbeat and fun. I love the twist of powdered rose, which is like a lipstick smudge.
Eau de Velours is very good. Elegant, polished, and easy to wear. November 6, 2017 at 8:53am
kat: I finally got hold of a sample Eau de Velours and I’m in love. It is close to the mothership and the first flanker – yet delightfully different. It lacks the former’s tartness and the later’s soft flowers – instead I get a most delicious plum. And like all Bottega scents it stays with me for hours.
I also got a couple of interesting niche perfume samples yet so far they all fell short (I try one per day) – with the exception of Keiko Mecheri’s Cuir de Cordoba. I’m hopeless when it comes to leathery notes. November 6, 2017 at 10:19am
Karen A: I just received a sample of Eau de Velours and thought it was a beauty, but am passing it on to a leather-note lover. Felt very well made and elegant. November 6, 2017 at 10:29am
Nora Szekely: Hi Victoria and perfume lovers,
Sop far I only tried Twilly and loved it a lot.
Cafe Tuberosa and Un air de Bretagne seem right up my alley, so I make sure to sample them too. November 6, 2017 at 7:35am
Victoria: After the disappointment of Gabrielle, Twilly was a welcome discovery. November 6, 2017 at 8:54am
spe: Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet is a new discovery for me. I enjoy carnation and this is softly spicy, so a nice Fall/Winter scent. A friend brought Floris White Rose as a gift from London. While it’s simpler than most of my favorites, I do like it’s soft nature. Also, I found vintage Chanel 19 in small metal cannisters and very much enjoy that this Fall.
Twilly was a scent I was so excited to try, however, like Galop, the drydown was unpleasant on me. Some of the new Guerlains are pretty, but don’t provide me with an emotional pull.
I have been enjoying La Panthere, a relatively new discovery even though it’s been out for years. From the first spritz, it felt elegantly familiar and took me back to old times when my Mom was getting ready to go out. November 6, 2017 at 10:00am
Victoria: I also love La Panthere. It’s a statement perfume, but it’s very easy to wear. November 10, 2017 at 9:02am
spe: Yes, exactly!
Also, I’ve receently tried Joy Forever and it’s quite lovely. November 12, 2017 at 7:56pm
ClareObscure: Hi spe. I too love Serge Lutens Vitriol d’Oeillet. ‘Venom of a carnation’ is my nickname for it en Anglais. It’s become my winter signature scent. so unique, floral but not sweet. smells like me with carnations…spicy, and great sillage. I sometimes layer it as a base for an evening out. December 21, 2017 at 12:48pm
Filomena: The only ones I have tried on your list were Dyptique Vetyverio EDP and Hermes Twilly. The ones I have tried and liked more recently are Bogue’s MEM, Papillon’s Dryad and Aedes de Venustas’ Pilargonium. November 6, 2017 at 10:24am
Victoria: Dryad is on my wishlist. November 10, 2017 at 9:02am
Austenfan: I don’t think have ever been in a city that smelled of pink pepper and saffron.
I’ve tried Twilly once, and could not make up my mind. I did like it a whole lot better than Gabrielle which for some reason made me feel nauseous. That’s odd for me with Chanel, but it happened. Maybe the tester was off or something. Will try Twilly again!
I haven’t yet tried the Bretagne, but I’m quite smitten with the Bucoliques de Provence, not perhaps very original but I found it very, very likeable.
The Diptyque sounds gorgeous! November 6, 2017 at 10:28am
Cornelia Blimber: Maybe they mean not the smell, but the impression a city makes. Even then I would not choose Amsterdam. Vienna comes near. November 6, 2017 at 1:40pm
Cornelia Blimber: They don’t mean is more correct English I suppose. sorry! November 6, 2017 at 1:42pm
Austenfan: Mmm, you are probably right but even just an impression of pink pepper and saffron creates no association of a city for me.
Never mind, it always feels a bit weird exchanging comments with you in English 😉 November 6, 2017 at 1:44pm
Victoria: Yazd in Iran smelled of saffron and rosewater around the mosques and pastry shops. But, yes, I can’t think of any cities that smell of pink pepper and saffron. 🙂
Bucoliques de Provence is very good. I was going to include it on another list. November 10, 2017 at 9:04am
CC: Marrakech! November 10, 2017 at 11:21pm
Stephandtea: I just bought twilly this past Friday and it is a crowd pleaser! I bought it at Sephora because of the sale and even though I knew I wanted it, (I had tested it weeks earlier) I was still standing there sniffing. Another woman walks up takes a quick sniff and shoved a bigger sized bottle into her basket. That’s confidence!
I also have cafe tuberosa, although at first sniff I thought it was too strong for me and now I love it! It certainly helps that it’s a good 30-40 degrees cooler! I also love that I was able to buy the $25 travel spray. It’s the worst when you fall in love but can’t afford a full bottle! November 6, 2017 at 10:34am
Victoria: Those small sizes are perfect! Easy for travel too. Or to stick in your purse for later in the day, especially if you can’t wear perfume at work. November 10, 2017 at 9:05am
Karen A: After clearing out tons of samples and decants (I made up a large gift bag for a friend), I finally rewarded myself with a new bottle of perfume – well, the Natori EdP was an on-line bargain so does that count?? – Got Narciso Rodriguez Fleur Musc and am loving it. Easy to wear, anticipate it being my daily choice for a while (alternating with Natori which is a really lovely fragrance).
I wanted to like Twilly, but for some reason almost all Hermes have a bitter dry down on me.
The Diptique sounds like a beauty, definitely will try it! November 6, 2017 at 10:35am
Victoria: Diptyque has done a great job making its EDPs. They’re different perfumes, but the theme is the same. November 10, 2017 at 9:06am
Sandra: Its nice to read your perfume reviews again and to see you are still writing them.
A favorite new one (for me) for fall is Tenue de Soirée by AG
Black Perfecto by Guerlain is another one that is in rotation
Great paired with a cherry or red lipstick November 6, 2017 at 10:58am
Sandra: also wanting to try the new flanker to shalimar soufflé since I like the original flanker. Shalimar and fall weather is a great pairing. November 6, 2017 at 11:46am
Victoria: They usually do a good job on those. November 10, 2017 at 9:09am
Victoria: Sounds great! November 10, 2017 at 9:06am
JuliaKateLucy: I’ve sniffed Chanel’s Gabrielle and have to admit I like it a bit. The SA at my local makeup counter generously gave me three carded samples, so I think I’m good. I like it enough to use up the samples, but not so much I want a full bottle.
While in Paris for a generous birthday trip with Dear Husband I sniffed Jovoy’s Fragrance du Bois Santal Complet. Really loved this one as well as the Amber Intense, but at 695 euros for the bottle I don’t love them that much.
Passing through CdG airport I picked up a copy of Paris Vogue and there was a card of Hermes Twilly inside. Will definitely need to find this one in-store and give it a good in-person sniff. November 6, 2017 at 11:15am
Victoria: I don’t even know what kind of a perfume it should be to attract me at 695 euros! A large bottle of vintage Voeux de Noel by Caron, perhaps? But even so, it’s too much. November 10, 2017 at 9:07am
JuliaKateLucy: I came across the test strip in the plastic ziplock I put it in this morning. The Santal Complet still smells so beautiful. One of the better sandalwood scents I’ve encountered. The bottle was 100mL. The other scents in their line also come in 50, 30 and 15 mL travel sized bottles. When I inquired about this one the SA told me it was a new scent so it only came in the 100mL size. I might have splurged for the smallest size had it been available to me. November 10, 2017 at 3:01pm
Becky K.: I have not tried many new perfumes lately, although I did try a Gabrielle sample from a magazine. That was the first time I have seen a magazine sample that provided numerous spray opportunities over a few days. It was such a pretty little package.
Meanwhile, I recently bought a patchouli plant. It’s not doing well, but the earthy smell is nice. People would be surprised by the real thing. November 6, 2017 at 11:30am
kat: Oh, this sounds intriguing. Is is it a strong scent or just a whiff? And how close to patchouli as we know it is it? I tried Wikipedia but it doesn’t answer those questions. Instead I came across this tidbit that leaves me with even more questions LOL!
“In 1985 Mattel used patchouli oil in the plastic used to produce the action figure Stinkor in the Masters of the Universe line of toys.” November 6, 2017 at 1:58pm
Becky K.: That is interesting about Mattel using patchouli oil for that action figure! I will admit, I am not familiar with patchouli in many fragrances, and I have never smelled patchouli oil. However, people seem to have a strong reaction to patchouli. This plant is still tiny, so you have to smell the leaves up-close. Perhaps the scent is stronger on bigger plants. The scent is pleasantly earthy, and it reminds me of gardening. The dried leaves are earthy, too, but they do not have that fresh quality like leaves on the plant. The dried leaves seem rather musty, but it is not offensive. Also, people seem to prefer the dried lavender to dried patchouli. Thanks for asking! November 6, 2017 at 3:14pm
kat: Thanks for the info. I feel tempted to get me a patchouli plant now – but given my horrible horticultural track-record I’ll first wait and see if that tiny succulent I recently got makes it through the next couple of months before getting adventurous. November 6, 2017 at 4:28pm
Becky K.: You are welcome! My first planting adventures did not go so well, but you will figure it out along the way. As for the patchouli, it is challenging in colder regions, and I don’t think my plant will make it. Good luck to you! November 6, 2017 at 4:36pm
Victoria: You’re ahead of many perfumers, who have never seen a real patchouli plant (especially the younger cohort that gets fewer chances to work in the raw material production).
If you dry the leaves, the smell will be even stronger. November 10, 2017 at 9:09am
Debby: Twilly is such a breath of fresh air, especially after some genuine stinkers from some of the big names lately (I’m looking at you Gabrielle and Scandal). It was just what I was looking for: bright, not too challenging, and with a young carefree vibe. The longevity is astonishing too, I get a solid twelve hours, and it so cosy and delicious by that point.
I’ve also been enjoying the new Prada La Femme Intense, a lovely elegant tuberose. Not sure it’s full bottle worthy for me though.
The Cafe Tuberosa sounds intriguing. Tuberose is definitely having a moment, isn’t it? November 6, 2017 at 1:59pm
Victoria: Same here! Those are my thoughts on Twilly exactly.
Yes, it seems like it’s a fall of tuberose! November 10, 2017 at 9:10am
OnWingsofSaffron: Have you smelled anything particularly interesting lately, you ask. Well, actually I have: “Myrrhe Ardente” by Annick Goutal which I really, really like—even though it has been trashed more or less by Luca Turin.
The real discovery though is myrrh. I obviously know frankincense, but myrrh wasn’t on my olfactory radar. And now, I am in a bit of myrrh frenzy 🙂
BTW, is anyone aware of a good recent Amouage incense perfume? I read a lot of negative reviews: recent reformulation to the worse plus the addition of aromachemicals. I would be most grateful for any tips. Thanks in advance! November 6, 2017 at 3:07pm
Sandra: I have been want to try Myrrhe Ardente but it seems not to be available anymore November 7, 2017 at 12:06pm
Austenfan: Yes I noticed it has disappeared from the Goutal website, a shame as it’s really good. November 7, 2017 at 1:15pm
OnWingsofSaffron: Perhaps I should stock up? November 7, 2017 at 2:19pm
OnWingsofSaffron: It is available on Ebay Europe. Also, the vintage version in the somewhat “frilly” look. November 7, 2017 at 2:19pm
Victoria: Have you tried Encens Flamboyant by Goutal, from the same collection as Myrrhe Ardente? November 10, 2017 at 9:11am
OnWingsofSaffron: Oh yes, I have a bottle too. But in my opinion that is an entirely different genre: a cold Northern pine forest: very masculine. It reminds of those chewing gum ads on tv where one is swept away in some a cool whirl. Myrrh on the other hand is warm, embracing and – dare I say it: motherly (but not matronly!). November 10, 2017 at 11:31am
Severine: Yes. Old news for you but a cheap thrill for me: Burberry Brit Rhythm for her. I had been looking for a feminine lavender. I found it on a discount rack for the holiday season! Ha ha ha November 6, 2017 at 3:50pm
kat: That has been my summer scent this year! I also got it at a discount price. I guess it will be discontinued soon (or that has already happened). November 6, 2017 at 4:25pm
Victoria: Always a favorite! November 10, 2017 at 9:11am
Severine: B/w you have piqued my curiosity to try Hermes perfumes especially Twilly. 🙂 November 6, 2017 at 3:51pm
Victoria: Do try it, if you like floral oriental blends. November 10, 2017 at 9:12am
MmkinPA: I liked Twilly – maybe enough for a small bottle. (Thankful for brands that have more than one size!). Cafe Tuberosa started out great in my skin but went weird in the drydown, so I won’t be buying that. Most of what I have smelled lately has been boring or not good on my skin so I’m enjoying my old favorites these days. November 6, 2017 at 3:57pm
Victoria: I’ve been enjoying old favorites too. Wore lots of Feminite du Bois this fall. November 10, 2017 at 9:13am
KatieAnn: Victoria, you never fail to make every perfume sound so intriguing! I really enjoyed reading this list. I sort of brushed of Twilly when I heard it came out. I thought it would be too sweet and bright for me. Your description has changed my mind. I love anything with “creamy sweetness”. I really need to seek out a sample of this. I liked the colorful packaging after all. I wish I could add an interesting perfume, but I have only been sampling from my old stock of samples. Funnily enough, I have been craving springy florals with the coming of autumn. I unsealed my Chamade extrait and that was certainly satisfying.:) November 6, 2017 at 5:12pm
Karen A: Chamade extrait is my desert island perfume. It’s what I wear when I don’t know what to wear and it always works. Such a beauty! November 7, 2017 at 5:45am
KatieAnn: Yes, Karen, it is a real beauty! I feel so fortunate to own a bottle of it. November 7, 2017 at 10:10pm
Victoria: I also get cravings for green florals, especially on cold, grey days, and Chamade is perfect all year round, isn’t it? November 10, 2017 at 9:13am
Neva: I have a Vetyver candle by Diptyque. I wonder how it compares to the perfume…
Lately I have tried Sisley Izia in a department store. It’s a beauty! A peppery rose made fresh by the aldehydes, with a retro vibe. I rarely fall instantly for a perfume but a FB will soon be mine. November 6, 2017 at 6:39pm
Victoria: I remember that it was a pretty straightforward vetiver, where the perfume has more stuff going on.
Izia is another beauty. November 10, 2017 at 9:14am
Roxann: I agree on Cafe Tuberose, very well put together, but still different. I will check out Twilly for sure! I recently tried O Unknown, too smokey for me. Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir which I did purchase. Tauerville’s new Rose Oil is really nice and I pair it with any rose based fragrance in my collection. Patch Flash by Tauerville is on my purchase next after payday. My standout of 2017 was Delina by Parfums de Marly. Overall 2017 was a very good year for fragrance. November 6, 2017 at 11:20pm
Victoria: Yes! There have been plenty of good launches, so I’m not complaining. November 10, 2017 at 9:15am
Amy M.: Reading about Diptique’s Vetyverio EDP version prompted me to revisit some of my vetiver perfumes. I pulled out a decant of the gorgeous Dior Vetiver and fell in love all over again. I sure wish I had gotten a full bottle of this when it was released! Another new to me scent I’ve been loving is Hermes Cuir D’Ange. Both fragrances are earthy, sexy, and cozy! November 6, 2017 at 11:23pm
Victoria: Dior’s take on vetiver is one of the best, so it’s a shame that they discontinued it. November 10, 2017 at 9:15am
Natalja: I was so excited to read your review on Twilly. I bought a bottle at the airport on the way to Europe – not a good place to shop. However, I quite like it and now it is associating with beautiful Autumn weather and yellow maple leaves on the cobblestone streets of medival towns of Europe. Not quite the weather for it here in Tropical parts of Australia, more like Nicolaï Eau d’ Été. Maybe it’s not a place for it, but any recommendations for the tropics?Thank you. November 7, 2017 at 11:46pm
Victoria: To be honest, when I travel to the tropics, I wear no perfume at all. It seems that perfume attracts mosquitos, and even my favorites can behave oddly in the hot weather. But if that’s where you live, you probably know better how perfumes behave on your skin. Why not something based on green leaves or orange blossom, Guerlain Herba Fresca or l’Artisan Histoire d’ Orangers. Light but not boring. November 10, 2017 at 9:19am
Alicia: Natalja, three years ago I went to the Iguazu Falls (and Jungle). I wore O de Lancome, Cristalle EDT and Bulgari, Thé Vert. Mosquitoes didn’t bother me, and later I found out that they dislike citrus scents. October 1, 2018 at 1:33pm
Artfulreader: I will have a look at the Vetyverio; had the EdT but it didn’t last on my skin at all. I’m also hoping that Bottega Veneta Velours is gonna make it all the way to Stockholm as I have enjoyed the original Bottega Veneta in the past (but now very into The Knot from the same house, I’ve had the bottle for two years without using it much). I’m also getting into a few of the Le Labo scents, especially Thé Noir which has a lovely fruitiness on me. November 8, 2017 at 5:37am
Victoria: I also liked pretty much everything from that house. They do versatile and elegant really well. November 10, 2017 at 9:20am
Tara C: Lately I have loved and bought BV Eau de Velours and AC Cafe Tuberosa. Twilly is next on my list – I would have bought it at the Sephora sale but in my area they were only offering the 30ml nd I wanted the 85ml. I also have Nuit de Bakelite on my purchase list. November 8, 2017 at 1:45pm
Victoria: Sounds like we’re on the same wavelength. 🙂 November 10, 2017 at 9:20am
Karen W: Victoria, I wanted so much to like Twilly! I got a sample at Sephora and have worn it for the past couple of days, but I’m afraid it’s a bit too sweet for me; can I say that I got a fragrance flashback to Love’s Baby Soft? I did’t experience the tuberose at all the way others seems to have done – this disappointed me because I adore the strong tuberose component in Narcisso Rodriguez, Fracas, Jo Malone, among others). Twilly seems to be more suitable for spring or summer because of its powdery quality.
What I did like about Twilly was the festive, bright packaging and the fact that it was not a typical Hermes scent (though I am a fan of most of these).
For the time being, I will stick with Le Labo’s Bergamote No. 22, which has everything I love about fall. I must say that we are now experiencing a very cold snap, so I need to find a winter perfume soon~ November 11, 2017 at 9:06am
Aurora: What interesting reviews, at first I enjoy vicariously when you assess newly launched fragrances will get around to them eventually. A not so new (2016) but new to me scent McQueen impressed me as a manageable tuberose for someone like me who doesn’t like this note but it’s too expensive for what it is, as many perfumes. I only ended up with it because it came in a bundle on eBay, the other 2 included were D. Karan Woman which I liked and vintage Raffinee which I adored. November 12, 2017 at 9:27am
Awfulknitter: I finally got around to trying the Hermessence fragrances somewhere other than in an airport while distracted and tired. I ended up with a set of four: Ambre Narguilé, Cuir d’Ange, Epice Marine, and Vétiver Tonka (which I like very much myself, but I think it might end up as a stocking filler for my husband). They’re not new, but they were pretty new to me.
I’m interested to try Twilly now, which I skipped because I was feeling tired at the end of a day of shopping. That feels like an oops now! November 13, 2017 at 9:25am
Arthur: I tried the new Cire Trudon fragrances and I really liked Olim!
Also I bought a bottle of Parfum D’Empires Azemours les Orangers, of which I Love the mossy chrype base. Even better was that the shop (Parfum d’Ambre in our beloved Brussels) still had one of the old 50 ml bottels as I really don’t need 100 ml of anything). Pitty that the Cire Trudon fragrances onlusten come in 100 ml. November 16, 2017 at 8:34am
Arthur: Stupid autocorrect. Sorry for the typos. November 16, 2017 at 8:35am