Marigold & Tagetes: 13 posts

Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

One of the most popular feminine fragrance genres, modern green florals, has much to recommend itself for someone who is looking for a pretty and wearable fragrance. When the crisp, leafy notes are woven through the opulent floral accords, the compositions attain a vivid, bright quality. While classical floral bouquets are usually much more languorous and sensual, with rich honeyed and animalic facets, contemporary florals strive for a clean and luminous impression. Estée Lauder Wild Elixir is the latest addition to the available fresh green floral selection, a composition of honeysuckle, jasmine and gardenia notes painted in verdant hues.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

There are days in the winter when one can smell spring. It comes surreptitiously, even if the ground is still covered with snow and the sun is concealed by thick white clouds. Yet, the fragrance of spring is unmistakable—fresh, wet, and earthy, bearing that violet intensity that marks the desire of living beings to cast off winter’s slumber. Remarkably, this dissonance of spring is captured by perfumer Germaine Cellier in Vent Vert, the perfume created for Pierre Balmain in 1947.

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It would not be an overstatement to say that Estée Lauder changed the face of American perfumery and revolutionized the way women treat fragrance. With Youth Dew, which was cleverly introduced as a bath oil, she managed to break the age-old stereotype of perfume as a gift from a man. With her subsequent fragrances, she enshrined American perfumery as a rival to be noticed. Created in 1985, Beautiful still remains a strong symbol of Lauder’s vision. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

It is almost ironic that a fragrance described by its creators as “something Barbie might wear” turns out to be the most sophisticated release among the recent array of sweet and cute perfumes. The white floral bouquet of Juicy Couture fragrance is more along the lines of Christian Dior J’Adore and Marc Jacobs Blush, rather than Britney Spears Fantasy and Vera Wang Princess. While it does not attempt to break new ground in perfumery, Juicy Couture is an enjoyable scent. It is pretty without resorting to many clichés and girly without being puerile. …

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Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor.

If Armani Privé Ambre Soie could be envisioned as richer, sharper, deeper, with the warmth of amber underscored by darkly resinous woods, Paco Rabanne Black XS might be the fragrance that such contemplation would paint. Ambre Soie veils its amber with a gourmand, chocolate-like layer that softens the final result, while Black XS sets amber in a frame that highlights its balsamic woods and fine tobacco facets.

Created by Olivier Cresp in 2005, Black XS is another fragrance from the recent masculine releases (like Dior Homme with iris and cocoa and Lanvin Arpège Pour Homme with jasmine and iris) that blends the gender line effortlessly. In the niche market, its gender specification might well be unisex. …

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